mtaylor
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Hello from the king's Louis XIV city (France)
mtaylor replied to empathry's topic in New member Introductions
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
mtaylor replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I've seen that in drag racing where one car red lights and the other blows the engine. The driver gets out of the car with blown engine and has to push across the finish line. -
As I mentioned elsewhere, tore down and reworked the DeathStar with a good cleaning, tighting of all hardware and re-aligning the laser and lenses. Seems the move distorted things more than I thought and I should have done this after it was in place and settled in. Still didn't fix the issue I was seeing with a wider kerf. Chuck had the answer... use a shorter focal length lens and that did the trick. I also found the lens I had in there had a burn mark on it from who knows what... could have been a bit of ash from lens alignment months ago but all is well. So I'm heading back to the drawing table err... computer... and start the keel/false keel work. Plan is to draw the pieces that will use the heavy (1/4") boxwood (keel, sternpost and stem) and cherry (false keel and bulkheads) to mark the wood and then cut using a very thin scroll saw blade. I've found that wood that thick, the kerf is a bit of an issue in my mind as the laser cut is a narrow "V" and wider than I want.
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Nice repair, OC. I'd heard that Germany doesn't permit swastika's. Do they provide something else like maybe the black "iron" cross from WWI?
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Dooh... I forgot about the toothpaste trick. Been so long since I've dealt with scratched lenses.
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I'll jump in as a third stroke victim... Paul, you're doing very well and if you hadn't mentioned it, no one would have known. You're doing that good.
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Welcome to MSW, Binho. As for the learning curve, we all have been there and there's a lot of knowledgeable people here willing to help out.
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Check with someplace local like one of those mall shops where they claim "glasses in a hour". They should have some glass rouge (spelling?). Soft cloth and that it should be polished with some elbow grease. Otherwise, google it on line and see what's available nearby.
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It was done in the 1700's (not sure if earlier) to change the rake. Usually the captain's decision upon taking command and during the first cruise. However, the wedges were a lot shorter by then and not roped into place. I imagine it wasn't the easiest thing to do and I doubt it was done at sea.
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Thanks again for the likes... Welcome aboard gentlemen. Carl, What else do I have to do besides read MSW and play with the pup? Druxey, I this better? I think I got it.
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Daniel (Dafi here on MSW) has some on his site. You might check with him. http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html#anker7 There might be other sources also but I've used some of his photo etch and it's excellent. See "plate 7" at the above link. His are all in mm so you'll need to do a conversion to see if the size is correct.
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Yes. Ah.... the inside of the hook then? Got it.
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Best & Strongest wood glues.
mtaylor replied to irishrover1970's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
You'll get lots of answers as to everyone's preference... including mine.. I use either Elmer's Glue-All or Wood Glue mostly and some CA. -
Thanks for the likes and comments. I discovered that on Licorne, I messed up the knee of the head a bit but it's fixable. Making some progress on keel, and false keel but still flipping drawings back and forth to get answers. Seems the info isn't in one place but I consider that normal for any project. Now to the comments.... That's true on the English (and maybe other countries) but the French seem to like doing some things differently. The upper edge seems to also support the bowspit. Here's a reference: Those will be sorted. I saw one that's off but for the most part, I'm still reconciling the drawings (both NMM and ANCRE). There's a lot of cross referencing that needs sorting out between the various plan sheets. Thanks, I've printed it out and will be checking it out. I've heard the Danish have lots of these items but how did they acquire it? There's one characteristic "step" about the same location on the hull as that on Licorne. The thinner planks come down to the lower end of the gun ports and then go to thicker ones. They then taper down from that to the keel. I saw that one Chris but didn't make the connection. I remember Keith well.
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You can buy plaster casting material online. Or check with prosthetics companies and orthopedists.
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Kevin, Some did pass through, others didn't. If the wheel, etc. broke, this gave the crew a backup for steering. It also served as a connection to keep the rudder attached to the ship in case bad weather unshipped it. If it's passing through the hull, there should be a belaying point such as a small cleat.
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Almost 30 Years since my last build!
mtaylor replied to Todd Hart's topic in New member Introductions
Todd, There's a whole topic with 27 pages of where we do our hobby: -
First hurdle leaped and landed.... I think. The knee of the head. See pics below. Note that they have been distorted a bit for "security" reasons. I won't be detailing every drawing, but just to give an idea and see if anyone thinks I'm on the wrong track. The first drawings show what I had as source and what I drew. The exploded view is food for the DeathStar. I'll move the bits and pieces around for the most efficient (and to take the grain into consideration) use of the wood. Next up will be the keel, false keel for mounting the bulkheads, and the stern post. Should be fun....
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Thanks for the like and comments. The plans have already given me a headache.... no plans on the knee of the head. I've had to research the French, German, and Russian sites which is entertaining as I don't speak or read those languages but Google came to the rescue. I now have a drawing in work for that. After that will be the false keel along with the keel itself and sternpost. Might as well jump in with both feet. The side view seems to be correct when compared against the NMM plans so I'll work with those and sort everything else out as I go. So far, so good. It's been frustrating researching but rewarding.
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Nice save Dave. For copper, look into Liver of Sulfur as it doesn't affect the wood. EdT uses it in his models with great success. You brush it on, give it a bit and then wipe it off with a damp cloth.
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Looks very good, Konrad. I'm looking forward to seeing more.
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What Peter said... no such thing as dumb question around here.
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I'll be in for watching this one. I hope that at 13 inches long, you're eyes don't cross as the brass work has to be really tiny.
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