mtaylor
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What Robert said is spot on Jo. We all started off as beginners and before the Internet, we were on our own. MSW does believe in mentorship... we all help each other.
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Laser cutting questions
mtaylor replied to SardonicMeow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Here's my take.... Question 1: Use whatever wood works for you. Ebony and plywood do have issues from my experience so I don't cut those on a laser. Question 2: 2mm separation is doable depending on the thickness and the type of wood. There is a kerf that gets bigger depending on power and cutting speed. Just make sure that your cut line for the laser is outside the piece such that you end up with the 2mm piece. It'll take some trial and error. Note that if the wood is too thick to cut in one pass, the kerf gets larger and more angled with the second cut. As for cutting in general, spend some time cutting and dialing in the power and speed on the types of wood and the thicknesses as everything will be different. With a shared unit, always do a test cut first since power levels may fluctuate and users may fiddle with things like focus. So you want the machine at a known point. Even if the lens is locked down, do run a test cut first. -
Adapting DRO Devices To Shop Tools
mtaylor replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Interesting topic and idea. I'm assuming that you're just looking for repeatability of the fence setting? -
Christos, It varies a lot in the French frigates. Some didn't have any railing, others used rope, and of course wood on the outboard side only. Depends on the ship and the period. On the plans I referenced for L' Hermoine, it shows the outboard railings, but no inboard railings. On the earlier frigates, the "walkway" between the quarterdeck and the forecastle was actually lower than the two decks. You had to step down onto the walkway. Allan, The Goodwin info is only valid for English and possibly American frigates. The French for the most part, didn't have hammocks on frigates. The crew slept in any place they could find. Due to the hull shapes, dedicated deck space was at premium to say the least. So they slept on the deck, down in the hold, on the cable stowage, just about anyplace. On the other hand, fresh bread seemed to be available.....
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The ANCRE monograph only shows the outboard railing, Christos. The inner one on the replica may be there, as you say, for modern safety requirements. AL is known for it's inaccuracies, so make of that what you will. There's one more disclaimer... the ANCRE monograph has numerous errors from what I've read, but I don't know if this is one of them.
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Should I build Benjamin Latham?
mtaylor replied to Dr PS - Paul Schulze's topic in Wood ship model kits
Are you going to stay with kits or scratch build? If kits, I think that would do it. For scratch build, depends on how much scratch work you wish to do. If you intend to mill your wood, then a table saw such at the Byrne's. If a lot of machine work, then a mill or lathe. For the most part, with scratch building, I had (until I got a laser cutter) just a mill, small table saw, scroll (jig) saw, and lathe. Each has it's uses so figuring out what the next tool to buy is up to you after you consider what you want to do first. My most used have been the scroll saw and the small table saw. -
Thanks Iran. I was wondering about heat dissipation and possibility of water entering the hull. I did see one model years ago where the builder either had working bilge pumps or it was just cosmetic and sucking in the pond water to discharge for effect. Never did find out as there was always a crowd around him.
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QUICK-FIND INDEXES to BUILD LOGS FOR KITS
mtaylor replied to Dan Vadas's topic in - Index of all kits by brand and subject
Peter, As in all thing in life, stuff happens. People hit a point and move on to something else, family changes, death of the builder, etc. all have an impact. Some ships really can't be completed for some reason and often the builder just tosses it and moves on. And lastly, especially with new builders, they start a project that is way too difficult for them so they abandon it. What you might do, is try contacting the builder via their profile or just click on the icon for the builder and see if they're still active. Having said that, we've had quite a few builds go silent for sometimes several years and suddenly the builder is back and finishes the build. -
I think it's because most use a smartphone or (as in my case) I have a camera that I've had for years and am too cheap to upgrade. I note that many more people are now hanging backdrops behind their models and are using what appears to be better lighting so maybe your posts are rubbing off.
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Thanks Roger. That's one idea but I have a ways to go yet before I hit that point. Early one, I did consider stub masts and may opt for that on both Licorne and Belle Poule. Might be an interesting contrast to have them in the same case??? The masting sizes are different enough to that's still on the table just because they are different. I'm still having those "ah ha" moments as I sort through things while working on Licorne as time permits.
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I'm bringing popcorn....
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
mtaylor replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Good choice on the distributor and coil vs. a magneto. Most of the low budget guys didn't go with mags until "the car could afford it". -
Yep, it's now a dead link and probably has been that way for some time. With upgrades to software, often these pages that were referenced were deleted as the info wasn't applicable any more.
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Functioning torpedoes an option? I'm kidding but I have seen it done. Ok... on the serious side I have probably a dumb question, will there be a way to vent the warm air out of the hull or won't that be necessary?
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Thanks for the support. The idea of a second build is working. I finally got my head wrapped around how to convert the plans to wood as basically it's just the equivalent of Navy Board drawings. After staring the light finally turned on. I'll be opening a build log once I get into sorting out my method... POB, POF, POB with balsa fillers? Decisions, decisions. The stress hasn't subsided but it's manageable at this point. So I'll be continuing on Licorne while lofting what I need for Belle Poule.
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Now that is impressive, CDW.
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I use a "used" blade for cutting ebony and rely on filing/sanding to get the piece to the shape I want. I also try to keep several new blades of each tooth count on hand so if a blade does start showing it's age and wear, I have a spare new one on hand.
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If no one has a hard, fast answer, when I had a case built, the builder said measure and add 4" to the length and width for the inside measurement. The outside will vary on glass thickness and whether you use decorative or structural framing at the corners, etc. Your mileage may vary as this isn't set in concrete.
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Every ship would be different depending on the "owner" be it Navy or commercial, the Captain, and the crew. And then one has to take into consideration life on land at the time. Things were a bit harsher and harder back then.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
mtaylor replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I had quick run through the memory bank.. nope, no Henry J that I recall at a track. Many of the gassers of that era (but not a majority) were the Willis. I suspect it had a bit longer wheel base and possibly a bit more "engine room". Wheelbase gets a bit short and high horsepower does make the car real squirrelly. I thought the cross-ram option was to allow it to be used on the NASCAR circuit? -
Welcome to MSW, Zee. I would suggest that you do a build log of your first effort and make it a relatively simple model with not more than one mast. A build log is the best way get you feedback and answers to questions and you'll make some friends along the way.
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