mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I'm smiling at the re-work. As for the "blue line", hold off until you get the bulkheads installed and can check the "flow" across the top to it. Better to wait and see than wonder how to put the wood back if it needs to be there. It does appear that the "slot" is also too high but... I'd hold off as long as possible and check the fit after the bulkheads go on.
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Thanks Sam. I thought of the locking tabs. I'm going to run a couple of tests to see which I like better.
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Usually in the hold, if I remember correctly. Same for the thwarts and any other equipment used with them. Operationally, there probably were times when items were left in the boats.
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Warped frames
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
JD, Definitely nose around a bit in the Scratch area. You can also "fudge" a bit and say go to 1/8" on the frames (1/16" per layer) unless you're leaving some frames exposed and going for historical accuracy. The "catch" with Hahn is that his framing is his own not historically accurate. So there's a Catch-22 there. -
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Worked on the false keel today. I'm planning on cutting it from 1/8" ply then affixing it to keel which is 3/16" boxwood. I'll glue and pin it in place. I'll also be gluing and pinning the bow spit, etc. into place. Here's the drawing. I building in interlocking slots to get a good fit and then probably will lay some 1/16' or 1/8" stock to reinforce the joint. Since there's only (roughly) 1 1/4" of free space between bulkheads, it's a bit of squeeze to get reinforment in place. The deeper I go into this, the less my head spins. Next will cutting the bulkheads. That should be fun... there's also some stern framing for the counter. I'm giving thought (not serious yet... keyword "yet" to filling in between the bulkheads and other bit with basswood to give a solid surface for planking. I'm also musing over the thickness of the bulkheads. If I go with the basswood filling, they don't need to be as thick which makes for easier cutting and lowers the cost of the ply.
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Congratulations on the marriage, Vivian. I wish you much happiness. I'll add that it's great to see you back. Yes, the news out of Brazil has been strange but no stranger than anyplace else lately.
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Jo, I think that once you get it apart, I'd sand/file slowly and carefully and checking often, the area in part 16 where the keel sits. The other photos look like the keel is pretty square so just a bit fine tuning the stern post. I'd start by rotating part 16 on the plans and then mark where the keel notch needs to be filed and do the filing.
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Looks great from here also, Kevin. I'm not going to "like" that broken line post though.
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It's great to see you back and on the Constellation again, Jerry.
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It might be worth looking into on quantity shipping. I would suspect that if it is, then all would need to be dropshipped to one address. VAT is still a killer though. Here's a the Hobbymill info: Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
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Warped frames
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
JD The blanks were 1/8" and thus the frames ended up at 1/4 inch. For a look at how I did it, see my Licorne build. Some others do all the frames first then glue to the keel. I just glued them as I made them. -
Warped frames
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Indeed the Hahn method wastes a lot of wood. -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
mtaylor replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm with CDW. She has the appearance and stance of one that's been down the track a few times which to me, doesn't detract at all. Those rail frames were known to twist, usually the first full power run would do it. -
Warped frames
mtaylor replied to jdbondy's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I suggest that if you're going to want frames, use the Hahn method of two layers. Each layer is made up of 3 or 4 pieces with the joins in the middle of the first piece. I hope this makes sense... The closest I can show is these two pics... first the pile of blank parts and then pile of blanks. The last pic shows how these are overlaid. I hope this helps. Edit: These are the frames I used for me Licorne build and there was a long stretch of time between cutting the frames, building them and installing them. I used cherry for my frames as I needed a lot of wood and at the time, boxwood was twice the price of cherry.
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Most of us were using Thurston blades, but they are closing down (IRC) at the end of the month. They suggest this place as being comparable: https://www.malcosaw.com/
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For ungluing it, try isopropyl alcohol. It may take soaking a small cloth with it and wrapping the whole thing with plastic wrap to let it penetrate. I've not used Titebond but can only report what others have done.
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Yep... flattening my forehead. I have to admit, this lofting isn't as hard nor as easy as I thought. I stumble some but it's part of learning.
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Wow.. there's a lot of detail there that merits close examination... I love the pump working.
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It's a pity that there's no logs anywhere I can find, here or anywhere else. So... Can the entire keel with the stern piece be laid on the plans or are the plans a different size? It could be that (if you can) remove the stern bit from the rest of it and adjust it then reinstall. To my eye, the aft end should have aslight tip forward while yours is canted back a bit. My concern here is that if you just correct it like you're planning, something else will reach out and bite you since the shape isn't right. If the slot is vertical, than the last bulkhead/frame will also be vertical. Then again, I also believe in close counts and you are darn close.
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An excellent tutorial in the making, Daniel. Thanks from me also as this is fascinating.
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I think you're right, Druxey. Back to the drawing board. Luckily, an easy fix. I rechecked my sources and yes... it's the bevel. <smacks forehead on desk> One of the French logs that I referenced, had it as I did... an extra piece.
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Sam, I'm not 100% sure of on if that was actually done or a convention by later authors. Logically it makes sense to make it one piece. I'll do some more digging as I get time.
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