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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Another one that does well is zu Mondfeld's Historical Ship Models.
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Plank glue
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
To me, pre-bending is not an option. I've had planks pop off and straighten out when they do. Since I've been pre-bending, I have yet to have that happen. -
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Looks like 3-ply plywood on the keel. If so, maybe the hobby shop can help. If the only wood they have is balsa, that's a no-go. They might have the Midwest brand of some other woods though but I've heard Midwest stopped selling hardwoods. Still worth a shot to see what they have. And Doug has probably the best plan. Contact Dusek. Daniel Dusek, the owner, is here on MSW so try a PM to him.
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Are the bulkheads/frames glued to anything yet? I would hope they're glued to the keel already. The lower deck will stiffen things up a lot. A higher keel might help but kit makers have their reasons... usually costs. You've got the right idea with the wood piece down the centerline. Do you have some extra you can slip into place on the other two grooved areas? Pin the stiffener planks if you can though gluing would be preferable (not sure if some timber will be in there later). If there's timber to be glued in those slots, look ahead in the instructions. You might be able to glue them in now before doing anything else.
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Sappelli (I think there's 10 or 20 ways to spell it) is, as Jaager says, not a great wood. It can be worked with heat and steam/water (lots of ways people use). The biggest problem with any kit wood though is they don't usually get the wood cut parallel to the grain so it splits and breaks.
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The film "Das Boot" also has that very dark feel to it along with the emotions of the crew. When watching it, one is drawn into the submarine and can feel part of it. Very dark and moody but well worth the time to watch it.
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Thistle is right. My bad. But the conversions to the Malco products should be the same as far as tooth counts and wood thickness.
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Here's a PDF with blade recommendations and other things. Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf
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Don't be hard on yourself, OC. We all have our days that at the end of it, we probably shouldn't have gone near the model. I do sympathize but as others have said.. "the next ones will be better ".
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Plank Bender....
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I use the same tool as Ulises. One word of advice.... Do not under any circumstances use the Admiral's. Either buy your own or better yet, buy her a new one and use her old one. -
Not good news, Jeff. I'm sorry to see that but luckily the child is ok.
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The Chad list is proper for 1:48. You can substitute woods as you see fit. He does list sizes and the parts the wood is needed for so you can change types as types are the wood he chose for his build.
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Paint mixing is still pretty much "voodoo" just like in the past. It's really difficult to get two batches exactly alike. An old house painter I knew said to buy what you think you need, and then get more of the same mixed batch. Back in time, everyone had their own recipes for color as even the pigments varied. So what shows up on a painting may or many not be the exact shade the vessel was painted in and also varied as the ship weathered. I'm not a painter type but if you decide to paint, pick the colors and mix to what you want the ship to look like. No one can ever say you're wrong.
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Beginner questions, glues and tools
mtaylor replied to dvlp47's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob has good advice. Also, use the search index or the one here: and see what other builders have done for a similar model. Each model has it's challenges and sometimes it's glue related. -
Paul, Here's my $.02 and it's worth about what you paid for it.... It's your ship, build it the way you want. There is no "wrong" way here. Having said that, the French builders seem to go for basically Swiss pear, ebony, boxwood and maybe one or two others. The Russians seem to use a preparation that gives there's a dark look (generally). But these aren't hard fast rules. Some prefer to "paint with wood", others with paints, others still just bits and pieces as you've described. We see all types here and none are wrong. It' depends on what the modeler wishes his/her build to look like when done. As for accuracy... sometimes that a tough call. In the Scratch area there's many talented builders who run into a "I think this is what it looked like" because we don't have 100% plans for all parts. Same with paint... we just don't have it. So we do the best we can based on our skills and what we want to achieve. In other words, if you want to paint it, then paint it. It's your ship, remember.
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Good idea on the Shapeways. You can take dimensions and snoop around to find similar sized ones in brass. Maybe Chuck has something close (Syren Models).
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Beautiful work, Johann. I am in awe.
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There is some white decal paper for use with ink jet printers. I'm not sure who makes it and will need to be sprayed using a clear lacquer if I recall correctly. Denis (Popeye) uses it on many of his models.
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- zebulon b vance
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"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.
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Nice work. As a "heads up", the cannon barrels in this kit look more like ray guns than cannon. They can be changed with a mill or if you don't have a mill, a rotary tool and file. This kit was designed based on the way the Constellation sat in Baltimore up until the 80's (I think). It was a fraud as they were trying to pass it off as the original frigate. Reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Constellation_(1854) and this report: https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a241916.pdf a bit of Googling will get you more info. So for this build, he appears to be using historical info on the original.
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Steve gave good advise on this, but I'll add to it. If I understand this, you'll need to pre-bend (using water and some heat like a curling iron or electric plank bender) the planks and then "edge glue" the planks to each other. As for the decks, it appears that they will be secured to the tops of the bulkheads and some of the structural pieces. I think as you start building, some of these things will be clearer. Is there any written instructions? Billing's used to include some shall we say, rather sparse written instructions but also some info like like edge gluing. I recommend you start a build log in the Kit area. It will do a couple of things... it will aid in getting you help as we can see how you're building this model and also it will help anyone else who builds it. By all means, photos so we can look over your shoulder. If you hit a stumbling block, pause, ask about the problem and then be a bit patient as we're a global site and not everyone gets on line at the same time or the even the same day.
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Great to hear the problem is solved, Mark.
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There wouldn't have been a ship's wheel on a vessel of that time period. They would have used a tiller and it would have been under the stern castle.
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Carl, Start a build log with this in the kit area instead of here as this is for introductions by new members.
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