mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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The MicroMark is a licensed copy of the Proxxon. So.... they should (operative word... should) be the same.
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Hi Jim,
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Good to see your return, Bug. Excellent work.
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Start a log when you do and bounce them off the followers would be the best approach.
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Hi Craig,
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Ken, Ping Chuck. He's pretty into copyright and since we're US based, I believe US rules apply. He can give you more info.
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Well.... yes. You can buy billets, sheets, strips, etc.
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Don't sand.... I doubt you can get the opposing bits perfectly square with each other. Try the acetone as it works a treat.
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Thanks for the likes and the comments. I'm getting close to an update. Vossiewulf, The blackwood is ebony. I'm not using any paint. I'm am probably at some point toss the ebony (not far but out of the shipyard) and start using Minwax Ebony Stain. The dust from ebony is a real pain and it wears out sawblades real fast. I'll do the sheer rails as I have them ready (strip wood) and after that, I see what I want to do. As for color selection.. I look to the masters of the art and see what they've done, what looks good to my eye and meets my needs. Here's the post where I made my choices... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=269711 In Licorne's case.. my only real mental battle was whether to plank her in cherry or swiss pear. The pear won out as the cherry just gets too dark with age. BTW, I thought model shipbuilding in general was a "disorder"... ???
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Hmm.. I just did a quick search... lots of Granado builds with the Caldercraft/Jotika kit... none on the Victory Models kit. Strange...
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For setting nails, the best way is to drill a hole of diameter such that the nail goes in but is tight. Then just push it in. If you're removing the nails after the glue sets (assuming planking), don't push it in all the way.
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There's a discussion covering this going on here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11861-how-realistic-can-one-make-sails
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Royal Louis by fmartins - multi-media
mtaylor replied to fmartins's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Good question... off the top of my head.... cannons were rigged differently, the caps at the top of the masts, the shape of the stern lanterns. Also the quarter galleries. There's unseen differences such as the way the framing was done. -
Charlie, The polyurethane seems to give a yellowish tint to wood to my eye where as dullcoat is clear.
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Royal Louis by fmartins - multi-media
mtaylor replied to fmartins's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
fmartins, Yes, the second planking would be even with the wales. reading the recommended books is a good idea but... there are aspects of the French ships that don't apply to the British ships and vice versa. You might look for a copy of zu Mondfeld's "Historic Ship Models". While it has it's issues, it does give a good overview of the ships and highlights many of the differences between the various country's ships. -
Henry, I've seen some in the past where the sails were billowed but I don't recall that the sail was gathered. The late Hubert did some tutorials on his site "Model Ship Building For Dummies" that looked pretty good. And somewhere I've seen someone using silkspan that "stretched" the sail such that it billowed and appeared as you suggest. Hmm.... time to do digging through my links, methinks.
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I don't think or know of any kit I'd describe as "epic" as by nature, all kits have issues, be it wood quality, instructions or sometimes just outright fiction. However, any kit can be bashed and modified to produce the look and degree of authenticity you wish including details. You'd have to define "stunning" or "story" as those vary by the beholder.
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Hi Norman,
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The detail is incredible on the PE stuff. I do wonder when these bits and pieces will actually work instead of being static.
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