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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. The only thing I know that's out there for Granado is the Anatomy of a Ship book. It's basically just plans.
  2. Hi Jed, Welcome to MSW. Go with Anja's advice about the model. The manufacturer... that's horse of a different color. There's been a lot of discussion on intructions, etc. here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/24-wood-ship-model-kits/
  3. Nice metal work, Jack. Just tell anyone who asks, that the welder was an apprentice. Seriously... looks very good from here.
  4. It's great to hear from you again, Remco. I think we were all beginning to get worried. As for "cheating"... no such animal in my book as the results are important. Laminating isn't cheating, IMO.
  5. It's great to see you back, Adam. As for your seat at the table.. it's been waiting for you.
  6. It's sad, Lextin. But at least it will be protected while you're out having an adventure.
  7. Here's links to the build logs I found... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11080-hms-endeavor-by-hof00-artesania-latina-whitby-cat/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2917-hmb-endeavour-1768-by-olopa67-artesania/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/92-hmb-endeavour-by-greg-lester-finished-artesania-latina/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2773-hmb-endeavour-by-bankie-al-160-circa-1768/ I hope this helps....
  8. No problem... Here in the States, this is a hidden movie. I was looking for it and there really wasn't much out there. I don't do Netflix, so I'm even more in the dark.
  9. Personally... I'd go with the Triton or Echo Cross-Section to get a feel for full-framed builds. Echo is a bit more complex than the Triton so that's a toss up.
  10. We've had at least 4 topics on this.... Do a search from the main page using "Ruyter" (without quotes) as the keyword. It's true.. not much if any press in the US on it.
  11. Kurt, I'm still sorting things out myself. I've found that if I can use it in my scroll saw, it'll work in the jewelers and fret frames.
  12. By best, what do you mean, Kurt? Blade selection is based on teeth per inch and ensuring at least 3 teeth on cut at all times. I tend to use Sawbird's blades or Olson's... depending. Side note: Some blades for the scroll saw are reversed tooth at the bottom of the blade to reduce the chances of tear out.
  13. If you are planning the gundeck, I would think that's what the holes are for.. might be wrong. I did the gundeck on my Constellation and it required a lot of rework of the kit to accomplish. I'm not sure how much rework you'd need to do but it can be done if you want it bad enough.
  14. Ah.... I see. That probably explains the Wiki list then. If I were a betting man, the 2 100-pounders were probably pivot guns as was the 60 pounder. They did mix things up abit at times on the main gundeck so it's possible the 8" and 9" were in the ports. So after the refit? <shrugs> I'm not sure where to go for info... A quick Google goes no where fast on this... I wish I could be more help but I'm not sure where else there might be info.
  15. Keith, From my 1854 Constellation build, it had 3 different size cannon so that was not unusual. Considering that the most forward ports probably weren't filled and used as bridle ports, that still leaves a bunch of ports with what Wiki says. Wikipedia isn't the most accurate source.. but a good starting point. During the refit, did they add ports? There's also the problem that in that period, they often did not fill all ports with guns. Also, they'd plan one setup and not finish it. For example, Constellation was supposed to get 2 100-pounders midships so they opened up the area between the two center ports on each side. Then, never installed the cannon. Connie's armament changed out also during and after the Civil War. Interesting problems but it appears you're on top of it.
  16. Keith, All the cannon would have been the same size as the armament list on Wikipedia shows what she carried. Armament: 2 × 8-inch (203-mm) rifles 2 × 100-pounder (45.5-kg) guns 1 × 60-pounder (27.2-kg) guns 18 × 9-inch (229-mm) smooth bore guns
  17. Eric, I'd go with their recommendations. Wood filler/putty, never really sets up solid. I've not used Bondo on wood but have used spackle it works.
  18. Beautiful work, Mike. I agree, the macro is not our friend. Everything from here is just fabulous.
  19. Indeed, what Frolick asked about pictures. And do consider doing a restoration log in the Scratch Build area. There's lots of good people here that might be able to help you with information, etc.
  20. Professor, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/20-wood-discussion/ at the pinned topic at the top for wood suppliers. There's also two on the front page as sponsors here. Quite a few of us have used The Lumberyard. He wood generally needs a thickness sanding although I do believe he still offers milled wood.
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