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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. That's a great idea on the frame jig. With that many frames, that jig will get a lot of use. The frames are looking great.
  2. I believe there may have been a fashion piece that covered the ends of the hull planking and the counter. I'll have to search and find a picture as most builders seem to miss this... You can see it here in the last pic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?p=72229 I did that here on my ship but it's French.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=374762 What most usually do is have the hull planks (and wales) cover the end of the counter planks.
  3. Steven, What Druxey said... We're harder on ourselves than anyone else could ever be. And movable goalposts... I have to remember that.
  4. Kees, it is pretty amazing isn't it? Talking and sharing with people all around the world. Your research is impressive on this and watching the parts come from the pictures is, to me, just incredible. You get all the details and they look great. Your dad did a great job on his trawler.
  5. Now that is incredible. I've watched it a couple of times and it looks as real as can be.
  6. Eric, Do you have a "third hand" or locking tweezers? I find they help immensely along with some magnification. You'll still need plenty of patience and some extra blocks for those that go flying off in the twilight zone. Looks great...
  7. Well done on the entire ship and that ingenious battery box. Looking great. Wish the brothers for me and much nuts and booty.
  8. That is stunning work, Ron. There's a couple of shots where the background is just right and it looks like an ocean of smallish whitecaps. One could think it's the real one just from those pictures.
  9. Looking good, Jack. Nothing wrong that a little touch up won't fix. The hatch covers came out well and the contrast in wood to the deck makes things pop.
  10. Hmm... white metal. I'd try JB Weld. But it may cure harder than the metal and make sanding/finishing tough. Or maybe some Bondo? I'd think something like those since they're designed for metal. I'm curious others will recommend.
  11. I went looking for info on this tool and did find a manual: http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/Dremel/700.pdf It looks like you could turn small diameter brass rod but you'd have to use files instead of cutters. Nice bit of machinery there. I'm glad someone helped you out.
  12. Looking good from here, Kevin. I'm still surprised you can get her in and out of the house as big as she is.
  13. You are well on your way. That is is some realistic rowing motion going on there.
  14. Beautiful framing, Mike. The finish makes it pop. I wouldn't worry too much about "light" and "dark" differences since as the wood ages, it will change color. I'm not sure what time frame is involved, however. I noticed on my build that the Swiss pear was brownish-pink when I put the planks on and then went more pinkish with the Wipe on Poly. It's now slowly loosing the pink.
  15. Interesting thoughts and research, Ed. I wonder, would a layer of sand been put down between the metal and the brick? I've seen this on friend's firepit they built on their deck and never thought about it until I read your post.
  16. I wonder where you get the oranges the size of beachballs? Just hard to grasp all that detail in something that tiny.
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