mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Your work is mind-boggling as well as outstanding, Greg. And that IS great service. Unbelievably great service.
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The more I see of this build, the more I'm giving some thought to one of these for myself. Beautiful, Jack.
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- gokstad
- dusek ship kits
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Jason, Don't feel bad about the ding, bung, crunch. I think we've all done that one at least once. You've got some lovely work going on there.
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Good work, Jack. Haven't you heard... "re-do's are the new normal." ?
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- willie l bennett
- model shipways
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Worse??? Pink stripes then with maybe green wales and purple curtains on the gunports? Oh.. and paintings on velvet in the great cabins....
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Treenails
mtaylor replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have seen ads at some places, but the sizes were limited and then their was/is cost. One could buy a Byrnes drawplate and a bag of bamboo barbeque skewers for less money and get the size they wanted. -
I'll try to help.. hopefully I get right... Permanent? No, they were removable by lifting up. At "clear for action", etc. they were lowered into the hold. During storms, canvas would be placed over them and nailed to the coaming. They were also removed for loading or unloading items to the lower decks or hold. Covered companionways.. There's two problems the cover on warships.... cost, and flying splinters if they get hit. In some countries, the only companionway covered was the one on the quarterdeck for officer use only. If no covering, then just a coaming around the opening and the ladder. I hope that helps.
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Sweetly done, Bob. What's not to like? And the "purists"... as someone we know would say: "pffffffffffft".- 525 replies
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- Syren Ship Model Company
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I have to keep reminding myself that this is really tiny and going in a bottle. This would look great at any size.
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There's a lot on anchors... Basically, the hawse came in through the hawse pipes and were fed to the cable tier. A messenger line via the capstan was used to move the hawse. If you'll go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-heller-plastic-to-victory-and-beyond/page-7?hl=%2Bmessenger+%2Bline#entry6287 and follow his log for a bit, it should all become clear. Dafi (Daniel) has done a lot of research and posting on things like capstan use.
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Looks like a great plan for those columns, John. I thought Proxxon made an XY table for your setup????
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Russ, I was beginning to think you had fallen off the end of the earth. Your schooner just continues to look great. Any progress is better than no progress and hope you get some more time to work on her.
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Piet, I think you'll need to recoup from the concrete work in addition to all the other chores you have going on. My back is hurting just thinking about the concrete work....
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Unbelievable....sort of pulls the breath right out of you. Excellent work, Dave.
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- sovereign of the seas
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A question for al you users of scroll saws
mtaylor replied to michael mott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Michael, That motion does seem common from what I've seen. And yes, arm geometry is the culprit. I did have one (a Delta) that suddenly started wobbling the blade left and right, but that turned out to be the plastic bearings (plastic? really?) wearing out rather quickly. -
I've done some scraping using metal scrapers but not glass. I have heard that are builders who do this. They take an old piece of window glass, tap it with a hammer and shatter it. They keep the big pieces and dump the little ones. The advantage is that often the glass will shatter such that lots of different shapes and curves are formed. For myself, I see that leading to DNA and red stains all over my ship.
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Actually... I'm wrong. Both the English and the French did that same way. The square openings are the way many kits do them. I have much to unlearn... as well as learn. I edited my previous post to reflect my error.
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Small update in the overall scheme of things. The new rudder is ready for the metal work and some additional holes. For example the two tiller holes are drilled but need squaring up with some file work and a couple of small holes for the eyebolts/ringbolts need drilling All things considered and compared to the elder brother rudder, I'm happy with this. There is one minor defect that will be hidden by the rudder coat. And no, i"m not going to forget this bit..... The opening for the pintles is shaped now like the French ones and not like the English properly. I also used boxwood from three different sheets/scraps in order to have some variation between the three slabs of wood. Edit: Actually... I'm wrong. Both the English and the French did that same way. The square openings are the way many kits do them. I have much to unlearn... as well as learn. For the metal work, I'm going with smaller diameter pintles and cudgoens than on the first version. the irons (straps), I'll make from the same material as before. Also, I'm considering right now eliminating the bolts holding the irons to the rudder and hull because even though the I'm using are the tiniest I can find, as this scale they are still too large. i believe if my measurements and eyes are to be believed they work out to having the heads 3" in diameter and standing proud at out 1.5". I'll be using epoxy for securing the metal to the wood, although I need to test first and make sure that it will hold.
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Very interesting results based on the research, Daniel. And with your build, that research is realized in physical form. As for "hurtful".... to who?
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Jason does beautiful wood, Dave. I use him as a supplier also. Jason does do the mm wood which is good. The closest you can find to 1mm from the Hobbymill closeout would be 1/32". I mentioned Jeff because that is a great price on sheet stock.
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I don't even want to hazard a guess as I've seen plastic ships hulls in just about every color. The blue from Heller is the worst, in my opinion.
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Sweet work on the hearts and the serving looks great, Sam.
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I like it. But then, I like anything that bends easier than ebony so your milage may vary. On the serious side, most of the scratch builder (or maybe many?) use boxwood planking. I use swiss pear on my build and it worked a treat.
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- robert wiltsie
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