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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Beautiful work, Glenn. I'll echo the comments of the others and add that this thing looks like it could actually take a head of steam and roll upriver.
  2. I Googled it, Joe. It's listed on EBay but I didn't go there... had a connection problem. Amazon... about $100 USD with "free shipping".... Hobbyworld - USA - $65 but no precalculation on shipping.
  3. Given the exchange rate on the Zloty to the US Dollar, the price isn't too bad considering the size of it. I didn't check out other exchange rates, however.
  4. Congratulations, Ron. She's a beauty. By all means, get her in a case.
  5. Ah.. no problem. I made a best guess on the info... I'm glad they've got more than one sheet for the rigging otherwise I'd think it was an AL kit.
  6. Steven, Try pre-drilling the holes just ever so slightly smaller than the pins. I found that works pretty good.
  7. The rear deck looks great, Nenad. As for the cannon... I would hope the crew would move it from where it's store to where it would be used.
  8. Hmm... Brian, it looks to me like it goes from pin 3 to the block as part of the tackle (green). There's a block to the left that stropped to a hook or tied off that eyebolt I see in the photo on the port side. The starboard is dark in that area. There is a block (the one the green line runs through first) is stropped to the line (yellow) that passes through the dolphin striker, then to the block on the boom, and then up to somewhere off the mast... But I could be wrong...
  9. Just fascinating.. and I too, like where this is going. Very inspirational.
  10. Interesting method. Is it more accurate than the tic-strips and spiling methods like those shown in the tutorials? Can you post a pic of the finished planking?
  11. That is a work of art. Thanks for letting us follow along on this. It's been an education.
  12. That's a big milestone, Nenad. The pieces look great. Can't wait to see them in place.
  13. Thanks for following and the likes and comments. To me, this is an adventure. And we know from Tolkien, "adventure makes one late for dinner". Jeff, I'm winging it. I know what it needs to look like, it's the getting there that's the adventure. It may not be for long. I'll probably do some flipping as I do some things to the exterior. Dan, That's the "as built" config. The "as captured" (my build) is this drawing. I think the answer is "yes" they are curved and not straight. The lower edge of the windows (the molding strip) runs from the wale, drops a bit and then ends at the wale. The whole thing is curved from front to back. Hahn notes this in his NRJ article on Licorne which is what alerted me to be careful and think this through.
  14. Jeff, I'd go with stays and shrouds and the bowspit lines before rats. Do all the masts from bottom to top before doing any running rigging. And then work one mast at a time for the running. I tend to hold off on the lower ratlines until the running rigging is mostly done as my fat fingers catch on everything. Many hold off securing the deadeye lanyards until the rigging is almost done as the shrouds tension may need some adjustment. For the shrouds and stays, go from the lower to the upper. For all this, including the running rigging, you'll have to try it and see what works best for you. Still waiting on the book? You might also check Tom's build out on the rigging... I'm not remembering how he did it.
  15. Looking good, Frank. By the way, that scrap box isn't full as we can see the bottom of it. Which adds a pile more of "well dones" as you got things right.
  16. Thanks for the "likes" and comments... time for an update. Thanks Dan. I did a similar thing by cutting the outline of galleries in thin basswood. This gave me reference points. I then added cardboard and basswood until I was happy. At that point, I destroyed them for piece parts. Here's where I am today... not a major update but it's getting there. I made the basic frames which provide the anchors for the the windows and planks between them. I added a stop for the windows and planks and the molding strips to these pieces before installing them. The moldings were carved using a scraper. I then measured and fit repeatedly (even remade them a couple times) until I was happy with the locations and appearance. The pictures look strange, maybe it's the camera angles but there is a slight curve to these and they are dead on at .5" between the top and bottom. Next up will be to make and fit the windows and planks, then the drops and the top. I have windows plugged into CorelDraw for cutting on the laser but still need to tweek them a bit. The drops are cut oversize and I'll start working on them also. Lastly, there's some joinery issues, but those will be hidden with the carvings for the taffrail. I've them cut to size but not carved. Now for the pictures. As always, clicking the pictures will enlarge them.
  17. I hit "like" to acknowledge that, Jesse. I don't like the news. This saddens me terribly. Keith had a lot of insights not only into ship building but life. I've been hoping he'd come back as I missed his builds and his PM's. I'm hoping there's a better prognosis for yours and I wish the medical types had better treatments. I'll keep you and Keith in my thoughts and prayers.
  18. That's a great idea on the frame jig. With that many frames, that jig will get a lot of use. The frames are looking great.
  19. I believe there may have been a fashion piece that covered the ends of the hull planking and the counter. I'll have to search and find a picture as most builders seem to miss this... You can see it here in the last pic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?p=72229 I did that here on my ship but it's French.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=374762 What most usually do is have the hull planks (and wales) cover the end of the counter planks.
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