mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Matt, Consider silver maple instead of surgar. Silver seems to have very little figure. It's look almost like holly but not as white.
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Hold fire.. hold fire... I just had a light bulb moment. The two working neurons I have left just talked to each other. I've got one made up that I'm tweaking but so far it looks like it'll fill the bill. I just realized that I'm not "blousing the coat" like one blouses one's pants in the military....
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I used that as one of main references, Druxey as it was the only reference I could find. I'll keep wrestling with it until I get it right.
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Thanks Robin. I have seen that one. I think my problem is wrapping my mind around what would the coat look like if it were removed from the rudder and laid flat. I think I can make it look right, just need to find the time to play with materials and fiddly bits.
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Did you see this? http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9609-uss-cairo The last post by Canute (Ken) mentions the Maryland Silver Company. There's also this topic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1492-civil-war-ironclad-riverboats And another but not on MSW: http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?5318.post
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Thanks for the "likes", the "comments", and the help. The rudder coat hasn't been forgottten. I've been distracted by household project and probably will continue to be for a couple of weeks. Plus there's the quarter galleries research and figuring them out. I'm looking at a couple of ideas based on my skill level and what I can push on... From worst case to best case... worst: take them off, almost as bad: leave as is. These two are unacceptable to me. So best options are 1) totally re-do. 2) Add the draping via bog paper and glue. 3) And lastly, try painting with highlights and lowlights. I'm still researching this thing but it appears that it falls under the "standard practices" of the time and there's not much said. So I'm investigating option 2)... I think I can do that and give it some drape and "wrinkles". Being French, some things were lost in the Revolution and then more during WWII. What I have is that during this time frame it was canvas, tarred. I've looked at pine tar which is closest thing I can find to Stockholm Tar, and it's definitely not black. Leather has been mentioned but at this point in time, canvas seems prevalent. The shape the material was cut to is also never mentioned or shown. The only source/bit of information with any detail has so far been the TFFM books.
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Gerhard, I note that he has the scale on the plans. I take it that the numbering at the bottom of the plan is "meters"? I'm guessing, based on what I see, is that "0" would be at the end of the hull and not the rudders.
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Alan, I thought the Billy Ruffian was coppered before she her first voyage? Or will you be leaving the copper off?
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Great looking casks, Nenad. I daresay that "mission accomplished" on them.- 4,151 replies
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Just beautiful, Patrick. I, like others, just mavel at the detail on something so tiny.
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Interesting method of making a build board, Mario. I've not seen one like that made from multi-pieces of wood. Is that MDF for the build board? So this is both laser cut bits and CNC cut bits?
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You're correct, Robin. It's very stiff, probably from the stain. I'll have to do some more testing and if I find a better way, I'll rip it off and re-do it. And thanks for the compliment. I am very stubborn determined when I set my mind to do something.
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Thanks for the "likes" and comments. Milestone point tonight. The rudder is finished. It still needs another coat of Wipe-on-Poly but that will wait until the quarter galleries are finished and I'll do it all at once. The second and third coats of stain did the trick. The rudder coat looks pretty good in person. Weird thing happened though, after the 3rd coat, the rudder suddenly got about a 10 degree rotation to starboard in it. I think the coat may have shrank a bit... ???? I'm not going to argue with it as plan on have the yards rotated with sails in battle configuration (main courses brailed up and the rest set as needed). I'm still researching this part as to what would be "normal". The only thing not on the rudder is the emergency steering lines as from what I've read, they weren't put on unless needed. Anyway, the pictures.... This was more for my benefit to check that the mortices for the main tiller and the emergency tillers were in the right locations. The rest are just assorted shots of the rudder. I think I'll take the rest of the night off and tomorrow finish sorting out the design for the quarter galleries. Hahn's plans and the NMM plans don't show the shape from above but there's enough hints from the stern view and side view to know that it's a semi-circle and sticks out on the sides beyond the transom.
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I'm no expert on restorations but it looks good at this point. What are you planning on using to clean it? I hope it doesn't involve running water (or a bucket of water).
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If you can photocopy (and get exact copies -- sizewise) or scan and print out a copy, just cut out the part oversize on the paper and rubber cement it to the wood. I hope that makes sense... Seems that copiers and scanners sometimes distort things in one or sometimes both directions.
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Very nicely done on the fix Ulises.. I think a happy dance is called for... Sorry about the wound. Someone once said a long time that in this hobby, there will be blood. I think all of us have left DNA on our models.
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Beautiful work, Ed. And that's a great idea using the blue tape.
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Paul, I'm thinking firebrick... seems to be what's used in such ships as Victory, Constitution, and various replicas.
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It's great to see over here on the "darkside", Hamilton. If your kit bashes are any indication, you'll do great.
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Thanks for that, Greg. I applied a bit darker stain and it's looking pretty good. I'll know better in the morning after it drys.
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Thanks for the "likes" and comments. Rudder coat time.... I tested several materials ranging from paper, silkspan, to handkerchief and a pillowcase. I decided the pillowcase cloth would best replicate canvas. After sorting out design and how I was going to mount it, I stained the cloth with some wood stain to give it tarred canvas look and when dry attached it to the rudder. I've attached the rudder to the ship and glued down the rudder coat. It's looking splotchy so I'll see what happens when the glue fully cures out. I might just brush on some more stain but the worse case is that I'll paint it. The French didn't use a metal ring like a lot models show (here on MSW anyway) but nails. Since those are 1" nails (full-size), I'm not going to try to duplicate them although I'm testing a method for simulating them... More on the rudder, later, as there's still more details to finish up.
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USS Essex by spongbob - American Frigate
mtaylor replied to spongbob's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Have some fun with them. BTW, if you ever connect just the LED to a battery, unless they are the ones with the built in limiting resistor, the LED will blow like super fast. The batteries will see it as a dead short and dump max amps just like through a wire. -
Sweet, Denis.
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