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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    I had that cut-off saw and binned it. Sloppy tolerances on the miter and cutting head were the reason. Even the markings on the mitre were off.
  2. mtaylor
    Thanks for the likes and comments. That's what I had on the plans for cutting the rudder... HIndsight...it's wrong. Also, I used the wrong size pintle and cudgeon material. I'm adding this to my "lessons learned". I take another look and see if I can fix it although without destroying the stern planking, I'm not sure.
  3. mtaylor
    Whoops... ok.. I tapered the edge of the garboard towards the keel at the bow. The rest of the plank(s) for the garboard strake to the rear are untapered. My bad....
  4. mtaylor
    Greg, I had to think about what you were asking.... the quarter galleries go there to hide the ugliness. We can't just have a doorway from the Great Cabin to the water can we? Or maybe I can forget the gallery and add a diving board.. hmm.... what would Popeye do???
  5. mtaylor
    I too am grinning from ear to ear... looks spectacular.
  6. mtaylor
    Dave, I'll take a shot at what I can... I'm by no means an expert. I'm building my first ship using spiling... the rest were.. shall we say, not following any known method. The thickness is a big variable. It depends heavily on what thickness the ship needs and more so on the scale. A 1/16" thick plank would be way too thick for a 1:96 model and way too thin for a 1:24 in most cases. The garboard is usually straight on the edge along the keel and tapered on the upper side. Your mileage may vary depending on the ship/boat design. Most folks do start at the wales first as this a key dimension. Some go up next, others go down depending on their preference. Bending the wood is a matter of water and heat... some use steam, others just soak, others a combination of soaking and heating (using everything from a soldering iron to a curling iron to electric plank benders. Tapering is also a judgement call.. taper both sides, top, or bottom. As for spiling.. wide planks get cut down to fit (tapered). If the plank is narrow enough, sometimes it can be tapered and edge bent. I know... nothing definitve.. right? I'd use the Beginner's Guide first to get a feel for the wood and process and then on your next ship, use one of the other tutorials for spiling, etc.
  7. mtaylor
    Bruce, I think I agree. It's sort of like in certain states in the US that for taxation purposes there's a formula for HP of an automobile. It has zip to do with real world measurements and (in this case, autos) it's seldom the same from State to State.
  8. mtaylor
    Cathead, Rule of thumb here applies: Get the Admiral's input first!!!! I'm sort of an all-wood type so I won't vote due to built in bias.
  9. mtaylor
    It's great to see you back, Michiel. Good looking workshop you now have.
  10. mtaylor
    I love the way it looks in that bottle. And the mini-ship in the top... Beautiful work, Igor.
  11. mtaylor
    I hope you don't mind, I'll stand over out of the way and follow along.
  12. mtaylor
    Looking great, Gary. I think the "just in time" approach is a good one. I can see cranking them out en masse and installing all at once later if speed is needed or if one has done this before several times and is comfortable doing that.
  13. mtaylor
    Thanks for the likes, the comments, and the ideas. Carl, I think you might be onto something. I never thought about coming in from the top. I'll take another look this week and see. Pat, I seem to recall that build also... too many years ago,.. <sigh> Oh yes, I'm logging the lessons. Here's the rudder in it's not quite or maybe it is, final form. (Rudder coat notwithstanding). I've added the strop and the chains. Now that's back in it's jig, I'm going to attend to several things... the rudder coat install from the top, the carvings <takes a deep breath>, the quarter galleries, and a bit if finishing up the sanding on the inside of the hull. And the pictures. I'm pretty happy with it even with some issues that the macro brings up..
  14. mtaylor
    For English ships, the breeching rope is the same size as the cannon bore. And (I hope I'm recalling this right) 2 and 1/2 times the length of the bore. Thus, when the gun is fully run in, there's about 18" to 2 feet between the muzzle and the the port cill.
  15. mtaylor
    Since this is a "working notebook" it might be that the earlier version of his calculation was his equivalent of thinking out loud.
  16. mtaylor
    I go along with what Pete said. Wood is wood and the color will vary even across the same piece. Run some sandpaper across that area (if you haven't already) and see if the color changes a bit. As wood ages with light and air flow, the color can change because of that.
  17. mtaylor
    That is a great looking wheel, E&T. And an very interesting method of designing and building it.
  18. mtaylor
    Mike, Welcome to the "Let's flip it over and see what it looks like right side up" club. She's looking very good.
  19. mtaylor
    Thanks for the likes, comments, and suggestions including those via PM. After many attempts and much aggravation, I'm giving up on the rudder coat. I've learned a few lessons on this and presumably the time spent counts towards the 10,000 hours that Druxey mentions. I've tried silkspan, paper, cloth, even foil. I considered sculpy clay and may still try that but for now... I'll move on. It boils down to at this moment, there's not enough room to work. I went too far on the stern build out and rudder installation. The lessons.. 1) Think not just 100 steps but a 1000. When I planked the counter, I put on Wipe-on-Poly.... errr.. no. Should have waited. (Not thinking far enough ahead). Possibly I needed to sort the rudder coat at this time but definitely before fitting the rudder into place. 2) When I buildt the rudder, the pins on the rudder irons should have been a bit longer and tapered before soldering up the irons. (Lack of knowledge.. need deeper research early on). 3) By tapering the pins and opening up the recesses in the rudder, the rudder could be removed and re-installed easily. (Doooh... moment). Anyway, for now, I'll take a pass, not worry about it but continue to think. If I get an "ah-ha" moment, I'll add it later. Meantime, I'm adding the strop and the chains.
  20. mtaylor
    Beautiful, Patrick. And here I am thinking that some of what I'm trying to do is "too small".... yikes! BTW, I found the remote but sneezed. For all I know, it's floating around on the wind currents and headed to the east coast of the States.
  21. mtaylor
    Thank you Alejandro. I too have downloaded it and am taking a look. By the way, if you open it in Chrome, highlight the text (I do a couple of paragraphs at a time) right click and "Google Translate". It will do a passable but not 100% accurate translation.
  22. mtaylor
    What many of the scratch builders do also is leave a gap in the external planking. This gives a slot that the channel can fit right into to help support it.
  23. mtaylor
    Alex, I stumbled across this while looking for something else... I don't know if you saw it: http://www.aamm.fr/boutique/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=250
  24. mtaylor
    The line would have been tarred after seizing and the line put into place from what I've read. Otherwise it makes a big mess on things. The tarring was Stockholm Tar which is a light brown when fresh. It does darken with age but from the previous discussions here on MSW, it really never goes black.
  25. mtaylor
    Great looking hull, Rusty. I agree on "doing it twice makes everything twice as nice". My grandmother used to say that and didn't get it until I started model ship building.

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