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Everything posted by mtaylor
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John, This one: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/
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- 18th century longboat
- model shipways
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
A sweet build, Bob. Your builds have rank right up as a gold star standard.- 525 replies
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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David, That bit of gun rigging is the inhaul for the guns. If, for some reason, the gun didn't recoil enough to reloaded, it was used to pull the gun back. It would have only been in place when "action" was expected and even then not always. It was sometimes unhooked and kept out of the way so as not to be tripped over but kept close at hand if needed. I'm playing "catchup".... Your build is looking great.
- 117 replies
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- constitution
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I'm loving it, Sjors. You are obviously taking very good care of the rigging spiders.
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- caldercraft
- agamemnon
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Daniel, I do believe you are correct. In France, the India Company ships were also warships so plans were sent to the appropriate place. They also planned on only one voyage per ship. Some shortcuts were taken, but since the King was involved, much of those ships were built like warships. England was a different beast as I understand. When the Navy bought a ship, they took of the lines and some of the details. The did do some upgrades as time and money permitted, like the stove, gunports, but I'm not sure wales were on the list. It was a quick and cheap way to get a ship for a purpose, usually, short-termed. As I recall, there were ships bought solely for use as fireships, victualers, powder and transports and very little was done. Others, got a massive overhaul. Do we know how much was re-worked when the government bought her? The shipyards were very good at detailing these things but not always on the drawings.
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I believe that kit is the same or a slightly modified version of the AL kit. As to how good it is, I can't answer but I remember seeing some logs here on MSW.
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Sweet work on the details.. the battens and the grates. Let's hope this is your last move, Danny. Being a nomad is rough on building ships.
- 268 replies
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Where does one find those extra-extra large quarters? That is some seriously beautiful work and those pieces are tiny.
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- greenwich hospital
- barge
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Ok.. I see that you set up the thumper and the worm came to you. That is a great looking bucket.- 4,151 replies
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- cutty sark
- tehnodidakta
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A great save on that deck, Denis. We've all pulled dumb things like that. And rails... a wow! on the painting even if I did like them as bare brass.
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A question for al you users of scroll saws
mtaylor replied to michael mott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Moxis, Maybe something like this? http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/store/p23/37088_Scroll_Saw_DS_115%2FE.html I've seen some videos and the blade goes vertical as the arm doesn't move. -
A question for al you users of scroll saws
mtaylor replied to michael mott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thinking outside the box? I don't think there was a box to begin with. Looks like a great idea carried through to working, Michael. If I'm seeing and reading this right, then the whole u-shaped blade holder doesn't pivot but goes up and down and the is always dead on vertical? -
Why remove nails?
mtaylor replied to halfmoonheinz's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
There's a couple problems with the kit supplied nails in my opinion. 1) Even cut flush, sanding of the planking becomes an issue as the nails will tend to rip the sandpaper. Also, they're harder than the wood so the wood gets sanded, the nails don't and you're left with little lumps. 2) Most kit nails are steel and in wood they will start rusting. You'll end up with discolored wood at a minimum over time. The nails are basically used to clamp the plank to the bulkheads or frames until the glue dries and then removed. (Hint: Leave them a bit proud.) On second layer of planking, they shouldn't be put through the plank as this leaves holes in the plank. Put them next to the plank and at a bit of angle to hold the plank down. Others will have their opinion which is one of the great things about this hobby. There's so many ways of getting to the small point. On kits, if you'll look at the build logs, many builders glue in basswood or balsa wood fillers between the bulkheads and at the bow and stern to help with the planking run and to give a smooth surface. Do sand things fair before planking. The glue coating will stiffen things up quite a bit. -
The grates just sat there... Ladders... what Henry said. If you consider that they were up close and personal in an artillery duel.. you're right about brutal. But casualties, percentage wise were relatively minor compared to land battles. When you get into the American Civil War, it was even worse.
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I'm playing catch up Ken.. What a great looking build you have going here and I'm liking the mini-tutorials on doing certain tasks. Question, did you ever find your stars? If not, check with a military surplus store. I'm not sure if the medal stars are big enough but some of the "generals" stars might be small enough. I remember seeing some in different sizes when I was looking for stars.
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Ray, What Lukas said... a matte finish. Or... some very fine steel wool or Scotch pad (those green pads). Be sure to wash off the deck if you use the steel wool as it leaves a very fine powdery dust. Do just enough with wool or pad to remove the shine and not the paint.
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