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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    It's good to see that you get to make a bit of sawdust, Walter. You're off with a good start...
  2. mtaylor
    Pat, Faking it will work. I've set up the parrels and trucks off ship such that there ends up a single line coming off each end of the parrels much like a necklace. I then wrap and tie the parrels to the yard. I hope that makes sense. If not I'll try to find a picture or make a quick drawing.
  3. mtaylor
    Then they should scan it so they have the drawing for when that one falls apart. Engineering departments do that all the time for that very reason.
  4. mtaylor
    Pat, If it's not too late, pin the yard to the mast. It'll give you some stability and hold the mast in position.
  5. mtaylor
    Oh... a copy... that changes everything then.
  6. mtaylor
    Alex, I don't think your wrong... but there might be other stipulations on the plans or with whoever gave them the plans. Perhaps the issue is that they're worried that someone will take the plans and turn around and sell them like certain pirate sites do? Might be worth a short email explaining that they're for personal use... Then again, some museums are really protective which limits their usefulness as a research resource from a distance.
  7. mtaylor
    Thanks for the comments and "likes". It's mostly just fiddly work in Corel Draw. No programming as such, David. Which makes me very happy. Well, all has not been quiet here in the shipyard. making progress. On the down side, it is slow, slightly maddening work to translate a 2D drawing into a 3D part.... Luckily, when the first side is done, the second side should go a lot faster. I've got two of the three windows glazed and in place. The third is currently somewhere in the workshop with the glazing drying (I'm using liquid glaze). I've probably cut and re-worked, and re-cut 20 or wo windows to get to this point and I find them very fiddly indeed. I've started working on the gallery roof(s) and drop(s) for both sides but have nothing to show in photos yet. So here's the two windows in place. Feel free to speak up if something is awry while I can still get access to the part. The slight (ahem) misfit at the bottom of the taffrail where the lower molding meets will be hidden by carvings. I've started those also....
  8. mtaylor
    Andy, have a good trip and make a few dollars to buy more tools and wood. That seems to be the way it goes... Cellphones are the bane of our existence.
  9. mtaylor
    Amen to the manta, Greg. I was thinking the same thing about cross-sections, etc. It reminded me of Jeronimo's Bon Homme Richard done in 3 sections.
  10. mtaylor
    On the actual ship plans (and not all kit plans have them) there's the lines drawings. If you'll go here and look at Russell Barnes article on interpreting line drawnigs, you'll see them. What Ben is doing is using those type of drawings. The waterlines on the body plan give references (not actual waterlines as we think about it) to height above the keel. Then he's using the warterlines drawing to get the shape of the hull for beveling. I think that with most kits, most builders just fair the bulkheads using a batten strip and don't go to this trouble.
  11. mtaylor
    Al, Have a look here: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php Jeff has guidlines for teeth count for different thicknesses of wood.
  12. mtaylor
    I too, know next to nothing about sailing these but what you're showing seems reasonable and less complicated than what the plan called for.
  13. mtaylor
    It's still amazing work you're doing, Greg. Wood kits require a lot of bashing also along with all the poor fit of parts, etc. I'm not sure what it is about ship kits. It might be the markets. Kids seem to be interested in the RC cars and there's the trains and planes. The hobby shops I've been to seldom carry a good selection of kits. But, if you ask, they have the catalogs will order. I think it's the Internet.. a bigger selection, cheaper and faster to buy online.
  14. mtaylor
    Bill, Would there even have been room inside for the gun crew to work any guns in those ports?
  15. mtaylor
    Looking great, Mick. I like that cutting jig for the ports.
  16. mtaylor
    Your buddy could be right. The photos do look like the real thing. Wonderful work, Neal.
  17. mtaylor
    It's a pity that the Admirals are spoilsports. That is impressive and a feast for the eyes, Dave.
  18. mtaylor
    Stunning work, Nils. Using steel cable is something we don't see often but it looks great.
  19. mtaylor
    Al, Are you using the right blade? Can you post a picture?
  20. mtaylor
    Sorry to hear that the time has come to pack it all up, Rusty. We'll just have to wait for things to be moved and the turmoil that moving entails to be settled.
  21. mtaylor
    I like the methodical approach you're taking, Nenad. It's paying off with the pieces you're making.
  22. mtaylor
    Wefalck, Sherline recommends that this "upgrade" only be done on machines that are well run-in and also to monitor the bearing temperature. When it gets warm, shut it down. As for longevity.. good question. I did a mod my (non-Sherline) and so far, so good. But then, I'm not running it very long at any given time, either.
  23. mtaylor
    Mike, The short answer is "yes". Not only width but also thickness were chosen by the designer and shipwrights to put strength where they felt it was needed.
  24. mtaylor
    Tim, I'll answer the best I can... #5 works well for kit wood as there's no extra for spiling. You'll also probably need to use stealers and drop planks. If you apply heat and soaking, bending the wood is pretty easy and will fit quite well. For kit, most, if they spile, just spile the 2nd (outer most) layer. The first layer isn't seen so many (myself included) use filler to get a smooth form for planking. I can't answer why #4 isn't used. Or maybe it is and has not been identified as the method used. Planking, like many other things, is one of those things that you'll have to try yourself. Spiling is the "real" technique, the rest are simulations. But use the one you feel comfortable with and gives the appearance that you like. I found spliing not to be that difficult when I stepped into scratch building but then again, I made sure to have a pile of wood handy to allow for waste. If I didn't, I would have used a different method.
  25. mtaylor
    Hi Tim, Method 4 or 5 will give you a nice appearing hull. Do consider using that of #5 to prevent things going wildly out control due to tolerance buildup, .. or not. Spiling is the way the old ships were done, however. For a double planked hull, you can spile the first layer but it will be hidden by the second. If you look at the planking tutorials at the top of this section, you'll get some good ideas. Also, in the article database here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php In the planking section is a good article "Simple Hull Planking for Beginners" which might be very useful. Good luck.

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