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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Hard to tell, Daniel. They're not cleats or fairleads are they? The painting inset appears to have rope around it to my eye.
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The same way, Dave. Only you will line it off on the first layer of planking. Just space the tic marks at where you think the bulkheads are and if they're straight from the sheer to the keel you'll be in fine shape.
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Why remove nails?
mtaylor replied to halfmoonheinz's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
There's a couple problems with the kit supplied nails in my opinion. 1) Even cut flush, sanding of the planking becomes an issue as the nails will tend to rip the sandpaper. Also, they're harder than the wood so the wood gets sanded, the nails don't and you're left with little lumps. 2) Most kit nails are steel and in wood they will start rusting. You'll end up with discolored wood at a minimum over time. The nails are basically used to clamp the plank to the bulkheads or frames until the glue dries and then removed. (Hint: Leave them a bit proud.) On second layer of planking, they shouldn't be put through the plank as this leaves holes in the plank. Put them next to the plank and at a bit of angle to hold the plank down. Others will have their opinion which is one of the great things about this hobby. There's so many ways of getting to the small point. On kits, if you'll look at the build logs, many builders glue in basswood or balsa wood fillers between the bulkheads and at the bow and stern to help with the planking run and to give a smooth surface. Do sand things fair before planking. The glue coating will stiffen things up quite a bit. -
The grates just sat there... Ladders... what Henry said. If you consider that they were up close and personal in an artillery duel.. you're right about brutal. But casualties, percentage wise were relatively minor compared to land battles. When you get into the American Civil War, it was even worse.
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Ken, One can't have too many tutorials or detailed procedures with a screw up or two... The tutorials teach and we builders learn from our screwups which all tell others not to do it that way. Seeing Kurt's shameless plug ( ) reminds me.. I really need to order your book. My metal skills stink.
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I'm playing catch up Ken.. What a great looking build you have going here and I'm liking the mini-tutorials on doing certain tasks. Question, did you ever find your stars? If not, check with a military surplus store. I'm not sure if the medal stars are big enough but some of the "generals" stars might be small enough. I remember seeing some in different sizes when I was looking for stars.
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Ray, What Lukas said... a matte finish. Or... some very fine steel wool or Scotch pad (those green pads). Be sure to wash off the deck if you use the steel wool as it leaves a very fine powdery dust. Do just enough with wool or pad to remove the shine and not the paint.
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Your work is mind-boggling as well as outstanding, Greg. And that IS great service. Unbelievably great service.
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The more I see of this build, the more I'm giving some thought to one of these for myself. Beautiful, Jack.
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Jason, Don't feel bad about the ding, bung, crunch. I think we've all done that one at least once. You've got some lovely work going on there.
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Good work, Jack. Haven't you heard... "re-do's are the new normal." ?
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Worse??? Pink stripes then with maybe green wales and purple curtains on the gunports? Oh.. and paintings on velvet in the great cabins....
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Treenails
mtaylor replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have seen ads at some places, but the sizes were limited and then their was/is cost. One could buy a Byrnes drawplate and a bag of bamboo barbeque skewers for less money and get the size they wanted. -
I'll try to help.. hopefully I get right... Permanent? No, they were removable by lifting up. At "clear for action", etc. they were lowered into the hold. During storms, canvas would be placed over them and nailed to the coaming. They were also removed for loading or unloading items to the lower decks or hold. Covered companionways.. There's two problems the cover on warships.... cost, and flying splinters if they get hit. In some countries, the only companionway covered was the one on the quarterdeck for officer use only. If no covering, then just a coaming around the opening and the ladder. I hope that helps.
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Sweetly done, Bob. What's not to like? And the "purists"... as someone we know would say: "pffffffffffft".- 525 replies
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I have to keep reminding myself that this is really tiny and going in a bottle. This would look great at any size.
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There's a lot on anchors... Basically, the hawse came in through the hawse pipes and were fed to the cable tier. A messenger line via the capstan was used to move the hawse. If you'll go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-heller-plastic-to-victory-and-beyond/page-7?hl=%2Bmessenger+%2Bline#entry6287 and follow his log for a bit, it should all become clear. Dafi (Daniel) has done a lot of research and posting on things like capstan use.
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Looks like a great plan for those columns, John. I thought Proxxon made an XY table for your setup????
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Russ, I was beginning to think you had fallen off the end of the earth. Your schooner just continues to look great. Any progress is better than no progress and hope you get some more time to work on her.
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Piet, I think you'll need to recoup from the concrete work in addition to all the other chores you have going on. My back is hurting just thinking about the concrete work....
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Unbelievable....sort of pulls the breath right out of you. Excellent work, Dave.
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A question for al you users of scroll saws
mtaylor replied to michael mott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Michael, That motion does seem common from what I've seen. And yes, arm geometry is the culprit. I did have one (a Delta) that suddenly started wobbling the blade left and right, but that turned out to be the plastic bearings (plastic? really?) wearing out rather quickly. -
I've done some scraping using metal scrapers but not glass. I have heard that are builders who do this. They take an old piece of window glass, tap it with a hammer and shatter it. They keep the big pieces and dump the little ones. The advantage is that often the glass will shatter such that lots of different shapes and curves are formed. For myself, I see that leading to DNA and red stains all over my ship.
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