Jump to content

mtaylor

Moderators
  • Posts

    25,985
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Classic Daniel... just classic. But at least now we know. I bow to the pressgang master.
  2. Beautiful lines and that sheer is indeed graceful. I wonder how they would have shaped the sheer strake at the false transom on the real thing.. it is a seemingly impossible curve. Now that I think about it, that's false transom isn't all that uncommon. It shows up in the pinnace kit that Chuck designed.
  3. Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. That makes two of us waiting for other results, Sjor. The glazing is growing on me. I like the imperfection of it and the longer it sits, the stronger it seems to have become. It actually back lite by shop light, Pat. I opened the blinds since it was "somewhat" sunny today and killed the flash. It almost makes want to put in LED's... A little late for that, I think. Thanks Chris. The windows fit nicely on the transom frames. I think is right.. the window spacing is the "big deal". And I think I found the problem... the area highlighted in red. I'm thinking that the framing underneath is off a bit. Since the planks edges are flush with that framing.. so it goes. Sanding sticks at the ready.
  4. Noah, Try some sanding sealer first. Redwood is pretty porous. I'm finding that Min-Wax's Wipe-on-Poly make the wood pop.
  5. Buck, The icon goes away after 25 pages... You can go to each page (yeah.. right... on 100+ page log) in a log (so like Augie's would 102 pages) and right click on each page and "save as". Sorry.
  6. It's good to see you back, Sam, even if just for a bit. Work is hell.. Ken, I think the Microscale needs a topic of it's own out there. I did some Googling and this might be perfect for many of us. These pictures are some of "test" shots to sort things out. The stern now has it's upper molding and the rest planked in ebony. It still needs more sanding The main stern carving is a "bad" carving blank which is hitting the scrap box as it's served it's purpose. I stuck it on with some double sided tape for position and appearance. I noted that it's too low and needs to be higher to look right. The real carving is on the workbench and slowly being attacked with various implements of construction and destruction. I think it's a perspective issue when I stuck it on. The transom being angled, it looks low when viewed head on. The taffrail... this one's a headache. I've changed the drawing to reflect where this one doesn't quite fit and also to lengthen the "legs". I originally designed it as a one piece but the legs are entirely cross-grain which weakens things (I think I've broken about 5 at this point while cleaning off the char). The other is an appearance that I'm not happy with. The cross-grain on the legs just looks dirty no matter how much it's sanded/scraped. I even cut one in half and the cut area looks "dirty". Anyway, I've reworked it so it's made of three pieces.. a crosspiece and two legs with the grain going in the proper direction. I hope to cut another later today or tomorrow. I'm noticing that things are quite perfect still in the dimension area but not much I can do at point, but I'll sort it out and tweak as best I can. I'm about 1/32" (2") off on the level, left-to-right where the transom meets the counter. And it's off about the same on witdth. One side is just a bit wider at the top. I'm thinking that the beams shifted slightly when I was reconstructing this area. Nothing serious but I thought I'd point it out. I do need to flip this beast over and plank the inside of the transom area above the deck beam so I can sand it down and shape before fitting the taffrail. I'm thinking, right now, the taffrail will be un-adorned. I tried carving some acanthus leaves for this area, but... I need a lot more practice for some thing that tiny. I keep at it as there's no rush on the carvings. Comments and critiques are always welcomed and yes, this is to be continued.
  7. Ray, To get you started, a very good resource is here on MSW: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php I did a quick search on very detailed build of the Vic.. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-heller-plastic-to-victory-and-beyond/ If you click his log and the at upper right hand corner enter the word "shrouds"... you'll get some pages where he discusses these. Then enter "ratlines" and you'll get his methods also. Just about every log has something on shrouds and ratlines .. well.. at least the sailing ships do.
  8. Red is the common way. But if you use a different color, I think that would work also. It just needs some way of indicating to the viewer that is a cutaway.
  9. Number of spokes would seem, from where I sit, to be a designer's choice. If they were offset (not evenly spaced) then that would be significant. Some of the early IC engines had flywheels that were not balanced in order to counterbalance the piston(s). On the rail engines, the wheels often had a balancer attached to the drive wheels. I wonder, were the spokes on these all the same size (diameter)?
  10. Ah.. finally got caught up with your build, Mike. Looking good so far. Boxwood is a nice wood to work with. I think you'l like it.
  11. Great looking flywheel. I'm assuming those are bolt holes...or..? Would putting small bolts and nuts through before the solder work make things easier? Still, that appears to be one tough soldering project.
×
×
  • Create New...