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Everything posted by mtaylor
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A minor milepost in the overall build but a major one for me... Six strakes have been added and to check how the tuck planking went, I taped the sternpost into position and took a few extra shots. Roughly sanded (sorry about the sawdust) and there's some gaps need filling. Overall, I'm feeling pretty good at this point. At the stern area, I'm off by about 3" (scale) which could be tolerance buildup or one side was of the transoms was off by that much. I'm thinking it has more to do with some tolerance buildup and the angle the planks came into tuck. The bow is about 2" (scale) off. I do like the way the lines are shaping up with planking. I need to re-mark off the hull and re-check the measurements and then do a few more strakes before putting the garboard back on. And sand, sand, sand.... <cough><cough>: Luckily the air filter system I've added to the workshop is doing it's job. Comments, questions, abuse is always allowed. Ok.. maybe not the abuse part...
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What Joel said. Keep it bent unitl cool and dry. \ I always made a throwaway jig for these using scrap. I couldn't find photo but all it was is some flat plywood with a piece of wood cut into the shape of the curve needed. Both pieces of the cut curved were glued down the appropriate distance apart forming a slot. When dry, the piece to be bent was wetted, heated and placed into the curved slot. I hope that makes sense.
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Fantastic work, Gaetan. It's terrible that you didn't enter.
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
mtaylor replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I think "Wow!!!!!!!!!!" is about all I can come up with right now. Just marvelous. -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nenad, I would think that the rear entrance would have to be about the same as the front. The back entrance is "new"? I know very little about the CS to answer correctly. I'm just surprised there's no pictures of this. I Googled but didn't see anything that would help.- 4,152 replies
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Jeff You have an apples and oranges problem. The AL kit is correct in hull form for the 1854 Constellation but has the "modifications" for the frigate fraud that was in place when AL made the kit. It's no way related to the 1797 Constellation except in name and a couple of timbers. As for "rebuilt"... I think it's more "restored" since it is the 1854 Constellation. The two davits aft that stick out from the stern are, I believe, still there and were part of the 1854 build but they wouldn't have been on the 1797 ship due to the differences in sterns. What I'd suggest is use the davits like the Constitution. Boats... I'm not sure about as I originally planned on using some of the kits from ME.. the 5" and 4" as I recall. In the end, I didn't use any. Make a couple of mockups of the davits (cardboard would work) and see which works best. There's some scaling issues with the AL kit since they used a lot of "stock" parts in it. Go with what you like...
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I'm just going to add to the kudos, Frank. I love the furled sails so much, I'm thinking of trying to do some myself. Yours are fantastic.
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That's looking great Jesse. Very inventive to use thread for the rails.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I see what you're saying about the messiness now. I was seeing "wear and tear"... I do love what you're doing and it is inspiring.- 4,152 replies
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I picked up two tricks from the late Roma on MSW 1.0... I'm very much a novice at milling anything except slots and few bits and pieces. The first one, using a broken drill bit, grind it lengthwise such that when looking from the end, it's only a half-round. Don't do the whole bit, just the end that needs to stick out of the chuck or collet. You want the rest round to fit into the chuck or collet. Using that, you cut tiny slots (depending on the bit size). The flat area does the cutting and also lets the swarf drop out. The second one is bit harder... Get a nail, heat it and let it cool. Pound end flat. Try to work from both sides. Grind a profile into flattened area and then heat treat. The nail now becomes a router bit for doing trim pieces, railing with a profile or whatever you cut into the flat spot as a profile. I don't use a high speed on the mill since it's not balanced but it does the job.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
The "messiness" as you say looks like it belongs there, Nenad. Great looking deadeyes... start production!!!! I have no idea about the dimensions if they are correct or not. Sorry.- 4,152 replies
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Tiny fake nails/nail heads
mtaylor replied to Landlocked123's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
John, A couple of ideas from others work I've seen... simulate with a drop of glue or paint. Take some brass rod and file it square, cut it in thin pieces and glue to where it needs to be. Or.. there's http://www.scalehardware.com/ -
Looks good, Matt. I think you're ok.. however, at an elevation, I'd be a bit worried about the blast and ball taking off the rails on the stern.
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Bill, I'd say go with the quoin on the carronades. They did have locks though as Crisman mentions the difficulty in securing them. The guns were taken off after the war and before the ship was sunk to "preserve it". Re-read the battle area.... I vaguely recall something about quoins be set just prior to opening fire.... a vignette type of thing. The cannon trunnions were off-center... I think (and might be wrong) is that the top of the trunnion was at the centerline of the bore. What I've seen some do is just make the carriage a wee bit taller rather than trying to re-machine or re-make new cannon.
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Looks to be a bit of battle damage there, Danny. I'm betting you will spiff this one up beautifully.
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- norske lowe
- billing boats
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Looking good, Cathead and it appears to be an excellent plan. As for skewed priorities, I think we'd worry more if they were the other way around.
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