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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Nice work on the galleon... I'm going to follow also as this miniature stuff fascinates me.
  2. mtaylor
    Fantastic work, Gaetan. It's terrible that you didn't enter.
  3. mtaylor
    I think "Wow!!!!!!!!!!" is about all I can come up with right now. Just marvelous.
  4. mtaylor
    Nenad, I would think that the rear entrance would have to be about the same as the front. The back entrance is "new"? I know very little about the CS to answer correctly. I'm just surprised there's no pictures of this. I Googled but didn't see anything that would help.
  5. mtaylor
    Jeff You have an apples and oranges problem. The AL kit is correct in hull form for the 1854 Constellation but has the "modifications" for the frigate fraud that was in place when AL made the kit. It's no way related to the 1797 Constellation except in name and a couple of timbers. As for "rebuilt"... I think it's more "restored" since it is the 1854 Constellation. The two davits aft that stick out from the stern are, I believe, still there and were part of the 1854 build but they wouldn't have been on the 1797 ship due to the differences in sterns. What I'd suggest is use the davits like the Constitution. Boats... I'm not sure about as I originally planned on using some of the kits from ME.. the 5" and 4" as I recall. In the end, I didn't use any. Make a couple of mockups of the davits (cardboard would work) and see which works best. There's some scaling issues with the AL kit since they used a lot of "stock" parts in it. Go with what you like...
  6. mtaylor
    Rebuilds not only build character, but also vocabulary... although I'm not sure that swearing like a sailor is called vocabulary by polite society. :P
  7. mtaylor
    I'm just going to add to the kudos, Frank. I love the furled sails so much, I'm thinking of trying to do some myself. Yours are fantastic.
  8. mtaylor
  9. mtaylor
    That's looking great Jesse. Very inventive to use thread for the rails.
  10. mtaylor
    I see what you're saying about the messiness now. I was seeing "wear and tear"... I do love what you're doing and it is inspiring.
  11. mtaylor
    That's true John. for most mills. However, I have the "old" MM Micro-Mill. If it were the "Mini" which is similar to the Sherline and others, it wouldn't be problem. There is nothing standard about this mill.
  12. mtaylor
    Bill, I've seen locks in photo-etch but I don't know if there's any available in 1:48. At one point, I think Admiralty Models offered a set but I see that they aren't offering photo-etch any more.
  13. mtaylor
    Good points on the read-out, Jay. I never did order them for my mill but I do have them on the lathe. Too late, the mill is out of production now.
  14. mtaylor
    I picked up two tricks from the late Roma on MSW 1.0... I'm very much a novice at milling anything except slots and few bits and pieces. The first one, using a broken drill bit, grind it lengthwise such that when looking from the end, it's only a half-round. Don't do the whole bit, just the end that needs to stick out of the chuck or collet. You want the rest round to fit into the chuck or collet. Using that, you cut tiny slots (depending on the bit size). The flat area does the cutting and also lets the swarf drop out. The second one is bit harder... Get a nail, heat it and let it cool. Pound end flat. Try to work from both sides. Grind a profile into flattened area and then heat treat. The nail now becomes a router bit for doing trim pieces, railing with a profile or whatever you cut into the flat spot as a profile. I don't use a high speed on the mill since it's not balanced but it does the job.
  15. mtaylor
    The "messiness" as you say looks like it belongs there, Nenad. Great looking deadeyes... start production!!!! I have no idea about the dimensions if they are correct or not. Sorry.
  16. mtaylor
    Bummers on the shot, Frank. I hope there's alternatives...
  17. mtaylor
    John, A couple of ideas from others work I've seen... simulate with a drop of glue or paint. Take some brass rod and file it square, cut it in thin pieces and glue to where it needs to be. Or.. there's http://www.scalehardware.com/
  18. mtaylor
    Looks good, Matt. I think you're ok.. however, at an elevation, I'd be a bit worried about the blast and ball taking off the rails on the stern.
  19. mtaylor
    Bill, I'd say go with the quoin on the carronades. They did have locks though as Crisman mentions the difficulty in securing them. The guns were taken off after the war and before the ship was sunk to "preserve it". Re-read the battle area.... I vaguely recall something about quoins be set just prior to opening fire.... a vignette type of thing. The cannon trunnions were off-center... I think (and might be wrong) is that the top of the trunnion was at the centerline of the bore. What I've seen some do is just make the carriage a wee bit taller rather than trying to re-machine or re-make new cannon.
  20. mtaylor
    Looks to be a bit of battle damage there, Danny. I'm betting you will spiff this one up beautifully.
  21. mtaylor
    Beautiful work. Ebony for the stanchions????
  22. mtaylor
    Looking good, Cathead and it appears to be an excellent plan. As for skewed priorities, I think we'd worry more if they were the other way around.
  23. mtaylor
    A wonderful effect. I like the way you're hiding the wiring also.
  24. mtaylor
    Jeff, Have a look here at Gil's build. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/485-hms-victory-by-gil-middleton-caldercraft-172/page-2#entry9619 I think he would have picked up on the lashings if they were there.
  25. mtaylor
    There's some good tutorials here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php And if you go to the top of this forum area: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ there's three pinned posts.

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