mtaylor

Xander, Gently cut them free with a #11 Xacto type blade. You'll have this probem with laser cut, CNC cut, or stamp cut. The wood around the pieces protect them. It's just takes a wee bit of time to cut them loose.

Final Adjustments and Conclusions This should be my final review post on this cutter. There's two images attached showing the progression of things. This is with Euro Boxwood and these are either tiny, or detailed and are items that I couldn't cut out of a sheet of with a scroll saw to save my soul. Euro box is even harder and a bit oilier than Castello. By the way, just an observation, Euro does char but it's more like a glaze than a soft ash from Castello. I realize I'm pushing this thing to it's limit and while there might be some more in it, I need to get back to my build. For the record, I'm keeping this machine. It will meet my needs and there are upgrade parts out there much like any complex tool to increase versatility. I replaced the lens with a high-quality lens from the Internet and also the lens holder (about $100 total and some choice language during the swap which required some serious fiddling). There was some slop in the factory lens tube which I thought might be creating some issues. I had to adjust for this and it took some time to sort out. But the kerf is now down to 0.02 inches or less after comparing cuts with the factory lens and new lens. They're straighter and almost no taper and will probably get better as I fine adjust the speed and power settings. Yeah... I just blew the warranty. I realize that the photos may not show a big difference but when I stick them under magnification for carving, the differences become obvious to me. The first photo is the nameplate. Tiny, not very complex but the lettering is the important part. These will be bas-relief carved. The final one is the bottom. I could do some better spacing on the lettering but I can live with it. The kerf is narrower and while I had the power setting a tad too high, I like the less charring I'm seeing on the cut. The second is the Arms of France for the stern (again bas-relief carving needed) and are approximately 3 inches wide. Again, Euro box and it's probably the most complex piece I'll ever have to cut. I'm happiest with the bottom one which is what I cut tonight. The kerf was straight, less charring. A bit more definition to the relief lines to guide the carving. My thoughts are that if I can do these detailed cuts, I can do the bigger stuff like framing futtocks without a hitch. I do need to adjust my drawings for the kerf but again that's learning. Also the different woods we use... ebony is a no go.. it turns to charcoal at the drop of a hat. Holly... I tried some 1/32" and it flamed even at low power that didn't completely cut through the wood. Cherry, pear, Swiss pear, and Castello seem to work best. I've not tried basswood as I don't use it except for prototyping or making jigs. I realize I've got the first version and I see on the website that they're making updates as they go. I do hope there's some focus on the quality control at the Chinese end, but I guess I'm jaded and have come to expect that any tech I get from China is iffy at best quality control wise. I also realize there's a pretty steep learning curve with any new tech. I guess one more consideration... I'm working at 1:64 which allows (or demands) thinner wood and smaller parts than 1:48. I realize that 3/16" thick hardwood is pushing the limit. 1/4" is, without upping the laser tube power, really pushing it and it may not give the results one wants as it takes two passes and the kerf is a V-shape because of it. At this point, from 1/32" up to 3/16" I'm now cutting all pieces with a single pass and not pushing the power limit which will help with tube life. When the tube dies, I'll probably replace it with a more powerful tube and a case extender and I'll still be under the cost of the next higher price machine. I've double and triple checked the specs and the power supply should handle it nicely. Last observation.. I don't think it has the workspace for many of the 1:48 scale pieces, notably in the stem, keel, and keelson areas as they are quite a bit larger than the same pieces at 1:64. I won't say "buy it" and I won't say, "don't buy it". I've got almost a month at 6-8 hours a day learning, working and tweaking at this point. It will require perhaps more time and effort than you're willing to put into it or maybe you like challenges. I guess I do, otherwise I wouldn't be trying to scratchbuild a relatively unknown frigate. Shipbuilding is a rather unique hobby as we do go outside the normal of things. Thanks for joining me on this voyage of sometimes frustrating and sometimes rewarding exploration. Let's go build some ships now, shall we?

Wonderful... just wonderful, Nigel.

Absolutely stunning, Giampiero.

I think I owe a response... however, taking the criticism at face value in spite of the obvious troll, I'll shoot for the high road. a) I did not view the videos at the time as Flash had been removed from our PC's. There are/were vulnerabilities from Flash and we had several attempts to exploit them. Ok. my bad on that. Googling part numbers did clear it up. 2) I followed the printed manual to the letter. alignment isn't mentioned until well after where I aligned it. The manual instructions are devoid of any meaningful explanation on how to accomplish this. I had to use Google and research it. As for the manual and your site, it's as simple as 1-2-3... Set it up, run the cut and engrave parts which I did, and go. Note again in the process where I started the alignment it was right after the go and a "let's see what this thing will do". 3) In searching alignment procedures, I did find out that the Chinese do often install the lenses upside down. The proper way is curved side up, flat to the bottom. Mine was curved side down, flat to the top. Numerous sites (including various optic sites discuss this). 4) There is always a learning curve. If you had read the entire topic you would have seen the journey. 5) Why shouldn't I test it with boxwood? It's very common around this particular hobby as is pear, apple, cherry, and ebony. For the record, no laser will cut ebony cleanly.. the oil in the wood burns too easily. 6) I'm still figuring out how to use it and still learning. Which applies to any tool. I've already started the process if "upgrading" and getting it to work. You'll also note, that I do not recommend it "unless you are tech savvy"... and that the tech is "isn't mature". I notice that the specs have changed for the next machines coming in... so it's obviously not mature. Also, Chinese quality control sucks, quite frankly. From the lens being upside down, to several screws stripped (and replaced) to the lens tube being drilled off center and at an angle which I corrected thanks to advice on the internet. According to sources across the web, the tube isn't a "true" 40W but a "peak 40W" which is a 35W tube. The true, continous 40W tube is about 100mm longer. Much of the last 30 days has been spent on testing and tweaking. I've been advised to bag it and send it back and buy a better machine. But I'm a tad stubborn. So follow along if you like.. I'll take actual advice instead of a beating. It's a journey, not a destination.

KP, I'm curious... did you send it in French? I think Heller is still there. Copy the email into Google Translate and try it that way... I always add to the top of any email I send to France "translated by google translate" in both English and French and then paste the English version below the French.

I hope that Nigel has it right... it does appear that is the case...

I'd suggest you contact Chuck.... I have no desire to go commercial... I'm supposed to be retired. :D Thanks Augie. They still need work.... You are correct. That was one of the things giving me problems. The plans for this area are a bit vague. I do plan on re-shaping and getting that curve in once the rest of the planks are on the transom. I purposely went thick on these planks so I could shape them correctly. I guess I wasn't clear about finish sanding after the planks are on.

Mike, What the others have said.. and spile, spile, spile. For bending.... I soak and then use heat to get the wood really flexible and pre-bent. While still flexible, I pin into place and allow to dry and also to set the bend/twist. The double thickness should work. Once the wales are finished, run a couple of battens o each side (or one side and transfer the measurements if they're equal0 and line off the hull/bulwarks/frames for the planks. You'll end up with one line for each plank per bulkhead/frame. A PITA but it does work. even for us who are doing a single planking for the first time.

Jeff, Just a suggestion, but before you go too much further, drill the holes for the masts. If something goes amiss during this, you don't want a lot of deck furniture that can be damaged or need to be removed. I thought the instructions had the holes being drilled earlier than this.... I could be wrong as I built mine totally out of sequence.

Hmm... I've seen plastic oars somewhere in my snooping around looking for stuff.. ModelExpo or Bluejacket maybe?

Sweet... when's dinner? Salt beef or salt pork today? The stove is looking seriously good.

Thanks for the "likes" and all the comments... Therein is part of the slowness of this. Every strake is needing spiling somewhere.... I'll be sweating over this until it's done... I'm liking the way the lines are coming out, myself. As for the cutter.. it's already been a help... and a source of aggravation and also fun. I got to get a bit radical.. cutting out the stern decoration would have driven me to strong drink. Indeed. I know what you mean about the roughness... I'm touching up the fairing as I plank. So far, so good. For those who might be curious and missed it... here's the review of the laser cutter: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10711-micro-mark-microlux-laserknife-2525-–-a-review/ I've just started the tweaking process.. a new and better lens and lens mounting is coming in Friday. Maybe a higher power cutting tube next. I just never could leave anything including most of my cars as "stock".

My $0.02 (US) into this... the spits were probably not used all that much. Usually, from what I've read, roasted meats were "officers" only and then only until the livestock supply ran out which was pretty quick. Some ships did carry chicken coops for egg production but again... officers only. Given the limited space... a couple cows, pigs, or sheep in the manager and some chickens. Other issues would have been hay, feed, and cleaning up the mess the critters made.

So that's how that window should look!!!! I have a similar window on my ship. I love the detail you put into it.

What Joel said is best... I've tried different sewing scissors but the finger holes are too darn small for my meathooks. The flying scissors work very well and are really designed to cut thread/rope/fishing line.

No worries, my friend. Your English is far better than my Serbian. My apologies, I didn't know I was correcting you...

Nice looking catheads, Nenad. As for the warnings, there's some posts in the Problems area. Seems a software upgrade was being performed. I'd rather hope there is a good firewall after all the things I've been reading lately about servers being hijacked and used to deliver some pretty nasty malware. Be safe and well....

Mike, Have you checked Danny's Vulture log? I vaguely recall that he did his anchor stock planking using the jig. It might have been a homemade jig though.

Some proof of life and work in progress.... I think I'm getting the hang of this.... I've planked both sides with required wide wale planks. The port side has been sanded but not finish sanded.. pretty rough sanded if you ask me, but it's ready for the narrow hull planks to be laid down. I need to sand the starboard side which should commence this afternoon... I hope. The stern/transom area I think I have sorted out. There's a covering piece needed and the fashion piece along the counter to the transom as well as the covering board where the transom meets the counter. These will be finished once the planking is complete but before final sanding.... The planks look a bit damp as I've wiped them down with some water to clear off most of the sanding dust and also to help raise the grain a tad. I've got a couple of pesky dings that need to be addressed and this is the logical (to my mind) starting point for that process. As always, clicking on the photos will enlarge them and comments and advice are welcome. On a side-note, I'm also developing drawings for the laser cutter to produce all the carving blanks, windows, gun carriages, carved railings, and assorted fiddly bits like the ship's boats. Some of this stuff is just too darn tiny to cut on a scroll saw.. or I need new eyes.

Looks pretty darn good from here. I'm having a hard time believing this is your first ship.

I'm loving your ship and not loving your being sick. Hopefully no infections between now and surgery.

Bob, We say the same thing with wood. Historically accurate is admirable, but being able to do that way 100% is tough. It's all a compromise somewhere.

I've gone over the CFL's and now LED's (although slowly). The newer LED's are brighter and use even less power than the CFL's which, use less than the halogen. I'm cheap, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it.

Nice work, Patrick.. The louvers are coming out great as did the engine.