mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Have a look in here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/ and hit this one: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/
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Hmmm... as I recall, the Bluejacket Constitution is solid hull as are many of the models in museums that we admire. The Princess Royal (got the book from Seawatch) tells about the hull being made from a large bit of wood and not frames or bulkheads.
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Nice save, Toni. That is some impressive planking.
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Artesania Latina Question Mast Dimensions - retitled by moderator
mtaylor replied to GM2SW's topic in Wood ship model kits
That's the way I would read it. I've run into this pretty often on the European kits. Also, watch out for something like 1,5 mm which to Americans and some other places is: 1.5 mm. There's a comma instead of a decimal point. -
Artesania Latina Question Mast Dimensions - retitled by moderator
mtaylor replied to GM2SW's topic in Wood ship model kits
The 0 probably isn't a zero. Is there a line through it? If so than it reads as: diameter 5 X length 240 -
Nice work on what looks to be a complicated deck planking scheme.
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hmm... he builds model ships with rigging and asks about insanity.. I thought that was the reason we build these things. :D
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Large is relative. Are you speaking of final size or scale? The larger the scale, the easier it is to detail. For example, a 1:48 Surprise or Victory is large but not as large (final size) as a 1:200 Bismarck.
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Mike, I try to cut (operative word is "try", usually fail) just outside the line. As for fairing.. 60 grit is fine if you're taking off a lot of material, but for just bit of removal, I00 should be good. If you're going to plank, don't go below about 250 grit (I'm trying to recall Greg's advice) as the glue needs some tooth to grab. For a test frame, that one is looking most excellent.
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Ok.. I understand HSE and here in the States, OHSA and their primary purpose is commercial/manufacturing operations. On the other hand we have commercial suppliers of the equipment supplying the tooling that requires the removal of the guards. I think it boils down to: "do what's right for you".
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Lextin, The proportions look right but they are big cannon. Maybe not a big as some of the stuff in mid-1800's, but they were monsters. I'd say the carronade would work better if you want to leave more deck space.
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Excellent planning and thinking ahead, Jason. The maple looks a lot better and I like that sanding jig.
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Lextin, Back when I was building my Constellation, I searched using "pivot gun". There's quite a bit of chaff but there still is some usefull stuff by drilling down. I used the image search. By the way, have look at Jerry Todd's Constellation build and especially his home page. He's done a lot of research and I think he's at the mock up stage if not the final stage of the guns.
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Piet, I was thinking you would use thread... but here you are using the safety wire pliers and brass wire. You just amaze me, sir.
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Impressive work as always, Danny. The bands on the wooldings, are those paper or wood?
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Jason, that was a nice bit of misdirection on the name of the photo... :D Points for that one.
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Hate to say it but that's a bit of bunk about NOT doing rebates, dados, etc. I have the Micromark saw and there's washers available to cant the blade such that it can cut a dado up to 3/16" wide. The guard HAS to be removed to cut dados. I also cut slits such as rabbets (I then finish by hand) using a slitting blade. I should add, so does just about everyone else here on MSW who has one will cut rebates, dados, etc. on our table saws. Also, with the thin pieces of wood we cut, many of the guards and anti-kickback devices will jam or not let the fence get close enough to the blade. A zero clearance insert is needed by all means, however. Yes, it's dangerous. You really don't want to work with a tablesaw, milling machine or lathe when exhausted, tired, after a few adult beverages, etc. You need to be on your toes at all times. I should have added to a previous statement that the power tool that hasn't bit me yet (yet being the keyword) is my scroll saw.
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That's what we do... plagiarize ideas. At least you are not thwarted by the twarts just black stuff. Is this about to become a "when all else fails, paint" solution? Twarts and gunwales looking great. And that toolbox... it's great!!!
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Mike, a great idea and well-executed. Since they have to come off, I guess you can call this part "testing".
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