mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Yes, an Oscar is required for this.... and maybe an acceptance speech?
- 241 replies
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- royal caroline
- yacht
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Piet, Simply wonderful craftsmanship. The planking is looking great.
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Martin, I'm sorry to hear about the accident. Seems lately I've heard of several and only one model related. Here's hoping you heal quickly....
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Next kit suggestion???? moved by moderator
mtaylor replied to Rich_engr's topic in Wood ship model kits
Rich, You've set your scale, so in my opinion, build the one you want. Those are all good choices. Even the Conny's probably not out of your league. -
Rats... I went to all that trouble and I could have bought one??? Oh well.. it was good experience anyway.
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Rafterrat_2005 I posted an answer to you in the Request Access topic.
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Randy, See here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/341-micro-power-sanders/ I'm using the top one on the deck for finishing. Augie, Sorry for the oversight.
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Jay, I almost bought one of those, but it's still way to big to get into hull. There's some serious tumblehome to deal with. Thanks for the comments everyone. I thought I'd add a bit more.... I'm using 220 grit with a very very light touch. Too much and I'll get swirl marks which I found out in testing on scrap. Too large a grit (100 or less) and it shreds and swirls the wood. For finishing, I'll be using my oscillating pencil sander with 320 paper. The scrapers are great but that deck area is in such a tight spot (between the raised center on oneside and under the tumblehome... well.. my fat fingers argue the point.
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Christian, The gratings are on the center which is raised above the deck. When I sanded that, I used a pencil oscillating sanding with 240 grit paper followed by 320 grit. Michael, Admittedly, the planking was not as smooth as I'd have liked. The deck sander is being used with 220 grit to get it down level and smooth. I'll finish with my pencil osillating sander with 320 paper. I started with the scraper but everything is pretty tight in there due to the tumblehome. Popeye, No swirl marks that I can see, but see my response to Michael on how I'll finish. A very light touch is mandatory.
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Dooohhh.. JP, you are so right. I pass by Lowe's on the way home from work.. they're two blocks from where I work. Those rubber feet people put on furniture might work better also.
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Valid points. Low speed and light hand keeping the sanding head flat or nearly flat to the deck.
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Copper, bronze and brass. How to treat them.
mtaylor replied to Modeler12's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Jay, Try annealing the bronze by heating to red hot and letting it cool. Works a treat to make brass workable. -
Warm, happy birthdays wishes to you, Anja. May there be many more cakes with many more candles ahead. And many more presents..
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Hi Robbyn, Here's a trick to get the top row of deadeyes all rotated and facing straight, more or less. Before running the lanyard, start at the top of the shroud and applying light pressure, pinch the shroud and pull your hand down the shroud to the deadeye. It should spin a bit during pulling. Then hold the deadeye in that postion and reeve the lanyard.
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- san francisco ii
- artesania latina
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Juergen, If it's already painted, yep, too late to stain unless you want to remove the paint. Maybe next time, my friend. I've used ebony woodstain on several projects and have been very happy with it. Beats having ebony dust on everything.
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Sanding decks is tedious and tiring and with my fat fingers, problematical. So.. a tool, preferably power was called for. After remembering that a floor buffer could be used to sand a wooden floor, I reached for the Dremel. I'm using the mandrel for the cut-off disks and one of the felt buffing pads. A chunk of sandpaper is rubber cemented to the pad. I'm looking around for a rubber disk, the right size to perfect it a tad more. I turn the Dremel on low and hold it as perpendicular to the deck as I can get and apply next to zero pressure. It does a nice job, fast.
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Ben, Not Jeff. And I just found out, my supplier is doing better... hmm.. Anyway, sanding decks is tedious and tiring and with my fat fingers, problematical. So.. a tool, preferably power was called for. After remembering that a floor buffer could be used to sand a wooden floor, I reached for the Dremel. I'm using the mandrel for the cut-off disks and one of the felt buffing pads. A chunk of sandpaper is rubber cemented to the pad. I'm looking around for a rubber disk, the right size to perfect it a tad more. I turn the Dremel on low and hold it as perpendicular to the deck as I can get and apply next to zero pressure. It does a nice job, fast.
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Sweet work, Bob. Once the dreaded ratlines are done, things seem to speed up.
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Nice work on the Vic, Kevin. I remember your aggrevations early on and yes, the time spent was well worth it seeing her now. Got a question... something I never understood. Why would anyone go to war in a pre-sunk boat? :D And this coming from a guy who joined the US Marines for 4 years in a time of war.
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Ferit, Very nice work on the guns and rigging. And thanks for the explanation about the rigging line and blocks.
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Beautiful work, Wefalck. How stiff are the sails at this point? Would water soften things abit to allow you to fold/crumple?
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PSF, It's a hobby, not a job for almost all of us. If we can't have fun, then what's the point? Sjors, You and Anja do be careful with your toys. I think every tool I have has drawn blood so far so the advice for a first-aid kit is good. By the way, your side of the room does need a bit of cleaning.
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Tony, I'm just catching up on your log. You've done a fantastic job. Have the perseverance to keep hammering away until it's the way you want is paying big dividends. I like what you've done.
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JP, We're holding our breath for pictures... Rats... I'm soundling like someone else we know. As some fictional character once said: "Patience, Grasshopper". Both in planking and waiting for pictures, I guess.
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Nice to see you back Chris. You can always get co-operation from the little ones by threatening them with "boarding school". On your posting issue... after you've chosen the files and they've imported, click on each one in the order you want them using the "add to post". If you're still having issues, go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/
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