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scrubbyj427

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Everything posted by scrubbyj427

  1. The piece you are tying to make will be almost impossible to cut as a solid at those angles/curve. The best way is to extrude your cutting curve as a surface along a perpendicular line or two lines, for example draw a perpendicular curve at the beginning and end of the cut and extrude the cutting surface “along two curves”, then simply split the open surface into two parts, copy the cutting plane and trim it at each end of the open surfaces to close the part. In regards to cnc cutting or even laser cutting, I think it is possible with a curve, im exploring this same problem with a design I am working on currently. You can see below that like your keel piece, I also had to cut on a curve, all the pieces are perpendicular to the camber. You can see the complexity of the cambered beams that require scarf joints as well as camber. If these beams were flat then it would be easy, however they are not, two options are one, to cut them flat and individually camber/bend each piece... or pre camber the subject wood board and laser cut. My theory is that if the wood to be cut is already curved (cambered deck beams in my case) then perhaps the router or laser can be programmed high enough (at top of camber/curve) to cut, yet not too high to miss the bottom of the curve, then what you are trying to accomplish is possible. I hope that made some sense...
  2. It would seem that they are the experts over there, with all the new designs and innovation freely flowing to the market.
  3. Welcome to MSW! Awesome work. Don’t see that version of victory often.
  4. Excellent news! I will be building this at some point. Just love this project!
  5. Looks great Fred.. that boxwood kit was an excellent choice, your planking looks spot on.
  6. That would be some advanced lighting effects. I think after a bit of grog they may start to spiral on their own! Lol
  7. I’ve been wondering where you went, Fred. I’ve patiently been watching for an update on your winnie. Glad to see you building again, your cheerful is looking great.
  8. Looks great Glenn, very clean and precise. Spend as much time as necessary on the frames and windows, just like your planking, it will pay off.
  9. Thank you Greg. So I did install lamps in the companionways to illuminate the steps, once I started the subdecks and other coamings I quickly realized my error and had one of those face to palm moments, I didn’t want to start ripping up wood at that point. The next time around I won’t miss that opportunity!
  10. Thank you Glenn, I’ve always liked the idea of lighting a ship from the inside but I’ve never liked seeing wires or lights that obviously shouldn’t be there. Hopefully this will pay off in the end, if not I just won’t turn them on ever!
  11. Thank you Bob. Your Winnie is looking very nice, we are all watching as you near completion.
  12. She looks wonderful Bob! Looking forward to the finishing touches.
  13. Watching you build ships makes us all happy too! Amazing work!
  14. That looks like a great idea for lining up the frames. What did you use to ensure the keel is perpendicular to the board?
  15. So here’s a few shots in very dim light. I need to start using a real camera, this iPhone just doesn’t capture what it really looks like, they are much warmer and not nearly as bright as the camera shows. Very happy with the LED’s that I went with, this will display very well and lifelike when complete.
  16. Been slowly plugging away at chapter 7. I’ve got my first set of lamps in, now I can begin working my way forward to complete chapter 7. I’ve been building some fittings, including the pumps and the stove and I started on the forward guns in anticipation of chapter 8. I’ve also got the first bulkhead installed and after I complete a few more sets of lamps I can move on to the next bulkhead. Lots of care has been taken to make the electrical element as discrete as possible, I have been thinking of how to accomplish this for months and I decided on a simple system of carving a small channel into the underside of the beam and gently running the wire with some pva to secure it. The natural beams will be the hardest, as soon as I hit the red ones I can begin to fill the channel and smooth it out and simply paint it again. Big thank you to Gabe @Gabek for his assistance with the lamp printing, the resin printer captured the 3D model wonderfully. These are very small pieces and require some assembly work as well as an opaque glazing. I’m happy with the results. JJ
  17. Will hobbymill mill the wood to your desired thickness? I would inquire to see if they also offer a lumber package for the Winchelsea. I believe the owner of hobbymill.eu is also a MSW member.
  18. You can rip as you go or buy the completed wood package . I just cut my wood as I needed it. Chuck outlines pretty clearly what thickness you will need, If you’re cutting your own. http://www.modelerssawmill.com/wood-packages.php
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