Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys! 

 

Don:  Go for it!  It's a fun build, and you can work on other things at the same time as I've done.

 

I remade the trunnions (they were too short) and blacken them with my new favorite blackening agent for brass:  Jax Pewter Black.  The stuff is amazing!  Just paint it on with a brush and when black enough, wipe with a rag or paper towel.  No "crusting" and I didn't do any acid washing or acetone rinsing like with Blacken-It.  It also blackens solder.  You should try it!

 

Each gun carriage was given a pin sticking down from the front axle to fix them in place and holes were drilled in the deck.  The only things left on the guns are fastening the cap squares.

[GuntherMT]

The Jax Pewter Black also works on white-metal / britannia castings, copper, and various other metals.  It's what I use also, after I was introduced to it by Frank (mahuna here).

[DocBlake]

I read about it in your build log, Brian!  Which of the JAX metal cleaning solutions do you use?  There are several.

[GuntherMT]

The one I got and use is the "Brass, Copper, Gold and Marble Cleaner".  Not sure if one of the others would be better, this is the one I decided to try when I got the pewter black, and it seems to work fine, but you do need to actively 'brush' clean the parts, not just drop them into the cleaner and then rinse.

[David Lester]

Hi Dave,

That is one gorgeous model. Bob's design is first rate and your building is exemplary.

 

I'm anxious to try this Jax Pewter Black, and I discovered I can buy it in Toronto! I had been using gun bluing but it isn't very satisfactory - it tends to rub off and just makes a mess of everything, (well actually, mostly my fingers, which in turn make a mess of everything) so I've been painting things black instead. I'll get some ordered today.

David

[GuntherMT]

I couldn't blacken solder with it for whatever reason.

 

Zoltan

 

Did you clean it first?  Maybe had the flux still coating it?

[GuntherMT]

Also might depend on the type of solder, I have only used it on silver solder.

[MarisStella.hr]

Mr. DocBlake,

I just have to say ... this is an excellent work ...

 

Zoran

Edited June 17, 2016 by MarisStella.hr

[John Maguire]

Doc or Brian,

 

Do you use the metal cleaner first? I have used JAX with mixed results and crusting. Is that because I did not use the chemical cleaner you mention first? Once clean, what are the ranges of time that you use for JAX application?

 

Doc, your work continues to be stunning. I wish I had a sense of wood colors similar to yours. Are you able to produce a picture of your cannon axle pins to the deck? The axles and wheels are soooooo small .  .  .  .

 

Respectfully,

John

[GuntherMT]

John, I clean the metal, dry it off (dab it with a paper towel, it dries quite rapidly) and then use the blackener on it.

 

When cleaning and blackening both, I use a small paint brush with the bristles cut short to work the cleaner and then the blackener onto the metal. 

 

After removing from the blackener, I rinse in distilled water, and then buff it off.  If you are getting crusting, you may be leaving it in too long and getting a heavy build up?  I just brush the piece until I can see it's fully colored, then take it out, rinse and dry it.  If i need it darker, then I repeat the application, I don't just leave it in until it's super-black on the first go.  I think that's the method that gets best results with all chemical agents, I know it's the same method I used with Birchwood Casey and Blacken-It.

[DocBlake]

Thanks for all the comments and "likes" guys!

 

I'm working on the chainplates right now, making them out of 20 gauge copper wire.  The blackening with Pewter Black is slower with the copper than it is with brass.  I'm having to go back 2 or three times to get the effect I want.  The Jax product is pretty cheap ($22 for 16 ounces, as opposed to about $7 for 3 ounces of Birchwood-Casey) so I'm not worried about going broke!  I haven't purchased the cleaning solution, but I'll order some today and see how it affects the blackening of the copper.

 

John:  I just drilled a hole through the front axle and used one of the famous "yellow nails" as the pin.  Use the pin to pierce the deck and drill another hole in the deck ( #71 drill).  Epoxy the pin in place before mounting the cannon.  Put a little epoxy on the tip of the pin and slide it into the hole you drilled on the deck.  It will hold the carriage in place and be invisible

[John Maguire]

That's precisely what I wanted to see, Doc - many thanks .  .  .

[David Lester]

Hi Dave,

I like you're idea of pinning the gun carriage. Looks like it works well.

David

[DocBlake]

I've neglected the AVS long enough!  It's time to finish this model.

 

I really don't like metal work all that much, so what's left is basically all metalwork!  I need to finish the yokes for the swivel guns and mount them, install the channels and make all the chain plates and mount them with the deadeyes.  I finally attached the cap squares to the gun carriages,  They are made of blackened brass.

[dgbot]

Very nice now you can give a good broadside to any tax collector who comes along side.

David B

[John Maguire]

The cannons are exquisite, Doc . . .

[Blue Pilot]

You are doing a fantastic job!  

[hamilton]

Just catching up on this build - great work!

hamilton

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys!  The shipyard has been idle for awhile due to my being assigned by the Admiral to several other projects.  Back at it soon, as we move into fall.

Edited August 18, 2016 by DocBlake

[DocBlake]

The shipyard is reopening!  I attached the channels, although they have no finish yet.  As I hate metalwork, I've yet to complete the chainplates.  I drilled the hawse holes and formed the parts for the catheads.  They are next up to be installed.  Last, I wanted to add a mainsheet horse, but wasn't sure the size.  In the end I just made it as long as the partial planking on the cabin roof is wide.  I'm still procrastinating with the swivel guns.

[DocBlake]

I finally am getting to the swivel gums.  I made up 5 yokes to mount the guns (one spare).  I used the technique Brian Weikert described in building his MS AVS.  They need to be cleaned up and blackened.  Here's a link: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-finished-model-shipways-scale-148/page-29

 

The following page describes the jig to build the yokes.

Edited August 28, 2016 by DocBlake

[jbshan]

Main sheet horse looks fine.  If it goes too far, the sheet could get hung up on the bulwarks.

Yokes also OK.  There's not much to them, as long as the guns fit into the yoke.

Nice clean job with the hawse.  Not the easiest thing to drill out.

[DocBlake]

Here is a photo of the blackened yokes.  The yokes themselves were silver soldered using Fire Mountain medium flow silver solder paste.  For cleanup I used a fine bristled brass brush chucked into my drill press.  It buffed up the heat discolored brass and the silver solder nicely.  15 minutes in acetone, rinse, then 15 minutes in muriatic (HCl) acid and rinse.  The blackening was Jax Pewter Black which I painted on with a small brush. 2 coats and no flaking off or crusting.  The process worked very neatly.

[dgbot]

Question, I have used muriatic acid before but rarely with good results. Several club members would use white vinegar for the prep and clean up. A little safer to use.

David B

[DocBlake]

Yeah, David, it probably matters little what acid you use, acetic or hydrochloric.  I think the acid just micro-etches the metal surface.  The system works for me, and there was no "flaking off" of the finish after treatment with the Jax..

[DocBlake]

I finished all the trunnions and blackened the swivel guns.  Next comes the supports, which shouldn't be too tough.  I'm still procrastinating on the chainplates.  The catheads are done, but not installed.  I'm getting closer to the end!

Edited September 1, 2016 by DocBlake

[KenW]

Really nice job.  Working with medal is another skill completely.

Congrats.

[DocBlake]

Thanks, Ken...I'm learning.  I used silver soldering with paste solder in a syringe to prepare the yokes.  I have a Bernzomatic hand torch that was able to get the solder to flow, but it took FOREVER to get it up to temperature.  A more permanent setup using oxygen and a propane tank, with a regulator will get the higher temperatures need much more quickly.  The solder paste is nice, though, in that you don't have to mess with flux and little chunks of silver.  It is kind of pricey.  There is definitely a learning curve here!

[Landlubber Mike]

Really nice work Dave.  Your work with the different woods is brilliant.  Not too shabby on the metal working too - very nice job!

[KenW]

A Bernzomatic hand torch ... a propane tank, with a regulator ...   ???