Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger

[src]

Julie, Thats a tough call. Strike a line down the center and miter the port and starboard planks were they meet? Run a plank along the mid point and miter the port and starboard planks to that? In the end you will make the right decision.

Sam

[KeithAug]

Julie 

 

I think the form of the transom on the kit is incorrect and it should be better defined. The underlying issue is lack of definition in the shape of the frames. I didn't spot the issue when I was building but if I had I think i would have created the definition at the 1st planking stage and then 2nd planked the transom axially - i.e fore and aft. this is what I did on altair.

 

[Julie Mo]

Sam & Keith,

 

It's funny how things work.  Right after I made the last post I knew I had to take a better look at what I am working with.  I took out a rasp and worked the transom down until I hit the plywood frame.  Then I took it a bit farther.  I started by flattening the transom then fairing it out to something more defined.  

 

The next step was building it back up again.  (This is when I really miss having access to my website to post pics)  I laid up a row of planks (the ones included for the 1st planking) running bow-to-stern on the newly filed-down transom.  Then I glued planks butting up to them, sort of building up the stern end as it flows to the transom.  Once the glue cured, I took the rasp to it again.  I think where I'm going will work.

 

I just got into my website but haven't been able to get Dreamweaver to connect from my computer.  However I did manage to load the images in through GoDaddy.

 

So as I was saying, after taking a rasp to the transom and knocking it down, I glued on some planks to build it back up again.  I then took the rasp and faired it out. 

 

I still have some work left but I think this will work.  The darker areas on the hull are hide glue.  The wood soaked up some moisture from the glue and the fibers were still soft when rasping the wood.  So I coated the whole thing in hide glue and let it dry.  Then I started the fairing again.

 

Edited November 20, 2016 by Julie Mo

[cog]

You could upload here ... at MSW

Edited November 20, 2016 by cog

[Julie Mo]

You could upload here ... at MSW

I didn't see any categories for in progress models.  I think the gallery is only for completed models. 

[KeithAug]

Hi Julie

 

That looks much better doesn't it. Im surprised they didn't advise it in the kit instructions as it would have made the stern simpler to plank.

 

Keith

Edited November 20, 2016 by KeithAug

[cog]

Julie,

 

Use the "More Reply Options" or "Full Editor". With those you can add images to your post, without the need to get them from an external site. That's what most people do ... Sometimes these functionalities in Blogs aren't very clear to the user

[mtaylor]

Julie,

 

Complete instructions on putting pictures in posts and PM's is here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/

[Julie Mo]

I've got the photo download thing resolved now.  Thanks guys for your help.

 

Keith, the transom issue kind of stopped me dead in my tracks because I hadn't considered altering it.  Even though I have already made some changes, I wasn't sure making another one was the right way to go until I saw what your Altair build.  When I'm at a crossroad, I usually peek at your Endeavour build but this last time I went to Altair.  

 

I've looked at many pictures of the actual boat, from the original to the latest refit but the ones I could find didn't show enough to tell if there was some definition at the transom.  But I am happy with the changes I made.  I'll do some final fairing then finish the starboard planking.

[KeithAug]

Julie - how about these

 

[Julie Mo]

Nice find, Keith!  Especially the top one.  That one shows the obvious definition at the transom.  Thank you! 

 

Of course a painted hull has the advantage of hiding build imperfections with fill compound... 

 

I was working on it a little yesterday and trying to figure out how to best define the transom and achieve symmetry.  The only thing I can come up with to achieve symmetry is to take a piece of thin cardboard, fold it in half, then cut the shape and unfold it to mark the transom.  Eyeballing leaves too much to fail.  I have to get this right before proceeding.    

[captainbob]

I have a stack of old file folders just for such needs.

 

Bob

[KeithAug]

Julie - re shaping the transom. Yes, as you say, one approach to the transom wold be to use card folded along the centre line and then cut. On Altair I actually drew the shape on card using a bit of geometry. However Altair isn't as sleek as Endeavour so the folded card method may be better.

[Julie Mo]

I think I got the symmetry thing conquered.  It was weird, even though I used the same plank, cut it in the center so the two sides would match, I still had to plane the port side plank so it would match at the center joint. 

It's going to be a bit precarious on the next two pieces.  I see lots of minuscule shaping in my future.

[Nirvana]

Julie,

Hmm, wondering if double sided tape could be to help!

This way you can cut and adjust all the pieces, once that is done you will have a port and starboard side and it's just to glue into place.

May be to late at this stage.

[captainbob]

Matching the planks where they come together, usually at the bow, is always the hardest part of planking for me.  But you're doing a superb job of it.

 

Bob

[cog]

Julie,

Hmm, wondering if double sided tape could be to help!

This way you can cut and adjust all the pieces, once that is done you will have a port and starboard side and it's just to glue into place.

May be to late at this stage.

 

To be honest, I don't think that will be working as the tape will lift the plank from the wood and make it longer then required, or that shouldn't matter much. However, by what I see you do not have a lot of leeway...

[robnbill]

Julie, If you take a pencil and draw where you want the planks to fall on the hull, you can overlay the lined hull with scotch tape. Then transfer the lines to the tape. Once that is done it is simple to peel the tape off the hull and stick it on your wood. Cut to the lines then do final detailed shaping with sandpaper until you get the plank to lay up to the previous one to your satisfaction.

 

That has worked for me.

[src]

Carl, traditional foam double sided tape or carpet tape would definitely be too think but there are some transfer tapes that are only 0.002" thick that might work although the scotch tape trick from Bill  might work better.

 

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-5748/Adhesive-Transfer-Tapes/3M-924-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-1-2-x-36-yds?pricode=WY488&gadtype=pla&id=S-5748Q3&gclid=CKHWyMX8wtACFU06gQoddpwOTQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Sam

[cog]

Should have thought about Bob's method meself ... used it on the Dolphyn ...

[hof00]

Hi Julie,

From a complete novice of 10 Years or so, "Do what feels right.... And Do It Well!!"

 

You have a huge "Wealth" of woodworking experience, or so I am lead to believe in reading your Log.

Other contributors may not like my opinion, se la vie.

 

My two Cents Worth.

(At the end of the day, who am I to pass judgement/Comment/Advice?)

 

Looking forward to seeing the results of your wonderful efforts,

At the risk of "Derision," (And that's fine.),  I'll Post my comment.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited November 25, 2016 by hof00

[Julie Mo]

Harry, I must have been reading your mind.  It seemed nothing I did could create the definition I hoped for,  I think the problem is the lines of the planking hid some of the definition.  So I just winged it.

 

 

 

 

I applied some mineral spirits and that did bring out some more definition but I don't think I will be able to get the definition I had hoped for unless I cut in a darker plank to define it.  Doubtful...

[KeithAug]

Julie

 

It looks pretty good to me. The grain in the natural wood finish is bound to distract the eye and mask the definition of the transom. Strangely it would probably have been more defined if it had been painted in a colour but that wasn't your choice which is fine. One option would be to put a further layer of planks over the transom in a toning but darker veneer. Alternatively rather than cutting in a darker plank overlay a darker edge plank to follow the contour and then fill in by overlaying the existing transom planks with another layer.

[hof00]

Lovely work!!

[Julie Mo]

I had considered a darker wood for the transom, Keith, but I am planning on applying a decal with the name and hailing port.  I tried to put a decal on dark wood on the head of one the guitars I built but the dark wood overwhelmed it.  No matter how light I made the letters, the decal created always came out partly transparent and got lost in the darker wood.

 

There is really only one part that bothers me.  Right at the rail, where the transom and hull meet, the planking is somewhat rounded.  But once mineral spirits are applied, the rest looks better defined.

I'm a bit hesitant to create a sharper edge because I don't know how much wood is left.  I probably need to stop fussing over it and just move on.  Perfection can paralyze one if taken too far.

 

 

hof00, thank you for the compliment.

[Dee_Dee]

Julie,

 

I'm enjoying your Endeavor build. 

My Corel Dragon has a similar hull design / raked transom as your Endeavor, just a bit smaller in size.  I planked the transom with 1/64" horizontal planks, which gave the transom optical definition.  Then, when I added a clear finish, the open wood grain darkened, giving further definition to the transom.  

 

What ever you decide, it will look fabulous!

 

Dee Dee

[captainbob]

You know that once the boat is finished, no one will notice what you are worrying about now.

 

Bob

[Julie Mo]

Thanks, DeeDee.  I think it will be okay.

 

Bob, you know that even though what you say is true, we will always see it.  Maybe a bit o' rum will make everything good again.

[mikiek]

Looks like you have it. When you flip the boat right side up does the deck go to the top edge of the transom? A rail?

[hof00]

Hi Julie,

For what it's worth, completed models, I see my errors, so what?

They do fade with time, (Errors I mean), others do not see.... (You'll always know that they are there.)

 

(My Ex. of 18 Years, still my good friend,  was into Needlework/Quilting, she was not religious but used to say that the imperfections in her work was created by God, the imperfections were something we had to live with as we were not perfect.  ) (I'm agnostic )

 

Don't worry about it.

 

I am so much looking forward to seeing the treatment you are going to give the Deck and it's fittings!!

 

After your efforts thus far, I'd be contemplating a rather large Congenic!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

My two cents worth.