HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

[Robert29]

 

More work on the masts.

Finished the bands on the square top end of the lower masts.  Also fitted the battens on the corners. To keep them the same distance from the corners I made sort of a quick jig made of two strips glued together as shown on image.

 

 

Then I made the blocks that are to go under the tops.  In the instructions it tells you to fit eyebolts and tie the blocks to them.  I used a different way which is more realistic. 

I made a loop with a thread.

 

 

Gripped both ends with these electrical clips.

 

 

 

And seized them at the middle as per attached you tube video.

 

www.youtube.com:watch?v=C_Au41GG-8g.webloc

 

After seizing you get two loops, one on each side and you can adjust to any size you want by pulling the ends.  One loop goes around the block and the other goes through a hole under the top. 

 

 

 

 

 

They are held in place by a piece of brass rod which glued and later painted blacks.

 

Here are a few images of the masts painted and ready to be assembled on top of each other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Robert

[md1400cs]

Robert,

 

Very excellent work masts and caps

[Robert29]

Thank you for your nice comment md1400cs, and thank you all for the likes.

 

A small update on the masts.  They are now assembled, lower masts, top masts and top gallants.  Dead eyes also in place, their strops have been blackened.  I am unsure about the deadeyes, if to paint them black like the once for the lower shrouds, or to leave them as they are.

 

Lantern also assembled in place and connected temporarily to a supply to make sure it functions. Hand masts also painted yellow and glued in place.

 

 

 

 

Tried the lantern in a dimmer light.  I am happy with the result.  At first I was very hesitant if to put the light in the this lantern or not.  The problem I had was not to fit the led in it, but how to pass the wires up to it without any showing and how to connect the same wires with the wires under the deck with the mast already in its place.  The resistor for the led is already wired under the deck, so the wires coming out from under the deck are already wired with a resistor in series.

 

Robert

[mort stoll]

Hi Robert,

 

If it were me I would paint them black so everything matches.

 

Be safe, and keep up the wonderful work.

Mort

[Robert29]

Mort, I took your advice,  makes sense to keep the deadeyes all matched.  You keep safe too.

 

Thank you all for the likes, here is another update.  More work on the masts and yards.

 

Boarding  pike racks fitted in place and added the bands that go in between.  The mast sleeves are only dry fitted.

 

 

 

Prepared the mast head lashings.  In the kit manual it is referred to at a much later time, with the shrouds already in place.  I thought it would be much easier to lash them now, with the mast in hand.  The thread hanging from them is temporarily, just to keep the lashings in place. 

 

 

 

Shaped and tapered all the yards, except for a couple of them because I ran out of 3mm and 4mm due to damaging them while shaping them.  Ordered new ones from CBM.

 

 

To build the centre octagons on the fore and main yards, first I marked the eight equal parts around the yard, then build around them with the lines as a guide,  For the topmasts I did the same thing, but first I glued the four lengths, then fitted the spacers in between.

 

 

The centre of the mizzen has actually 16 sides, not eight.  In the manual it only indicates to fit just the one length of walnut strip at the back, probably for the reason that 16 lengths around the cross jack are going to be very narrow and difficult to do.  I had some styrene strips of 0.5mm x 0.75mm and had a go with them.  I think they came out quite reasonably good.  

The topgallant yards centre is also an octagon as in fact indicated on the drawings,  but on such a small diameter the sides of the octagon are so narrow that even if you had to manage to do them, probably you would not even notice them, so I am leaving them round.

 

Driver gaff and driver boom.

 

 

 

When I came to the yard rings which secure the booms to the yards, apart that I had a few missing, I did not like the white metal once supplied with the kit,  some did not fit the yard , too small, some too big, so I decided to try and make them myself from brass.

 

This is a diagram from 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' of the Iron for the stunsail Boom.  I found this book really helpful for the build when it comes to some detail. 

 

I had a sheet of 0.25mm brass.  I cut strips 1.5mm wide and shaped them in a figure of 8,  leaving some space in between the rings, making the rings the actual diameter needed for every particular yard and boom. Then soldered them in the middle, at the same time making the part between the rings thicker with the same solder.  Then you can trim them with a file, and if any solder has gone on the inside of the ring you can easily remove it wit a round file.

 

To simulate the hinges on the boom rings I cut a small piece of a 0.7mm brass rod, inserted it in a hole on a piece of wood to keep it in place, put the already soldered figure of eight next to it and solder them together.

 

 

Take it out from the wood, trim it as close as possible wit a side cutter.

 

And finish it wit a file.

 

And this is the result.

 

 

I have two sets ready, two more to go.  after I finish them I will also do the rings at the end of the booms.

 

Robert

 

 

 

[Robert29]

Thank you all for the likes.

 

A small update. I was working on the yards but ran out of black paint, actually what I had left had quite a few solid pieces in it, so I decided not to use it and order new paint.  Whilst waiting fort the paint I thought I might as well continue work on the masts.  I fitted all the blocks and eyelets on the masts that I could, for the reason the it is much easier when the masts are still in hand. I left out the blocks that a line has to be attached to.  I think it is better to rig them later on, complete with the line and eyelet attached and glue the eyelet in place when times come for its rigging.  I just prepared the holes on the masts for the eyelets.

 

I had forgotten to make the boom saddle on the mizzen mast.

     

 

Blocks rigged to the cap on the main mast.

 

Blocks rigged to the main topmast top.

 

I decided it's time to start fitting the masts in place.  I was dreading to fixing the main mast because of the lantern wire connections, so I started with it so that I would not have the other two in the way since I had to solder and so on.  Since the mast goes through two other decks, apart from the upper deck and the slot in the keel, it was very sturdy when slid in place and did not really need any gluing. 

 

I cut the wires as short as possible, leaving enough length to enable me to solder them and widened the hole in the deck.  Slid the sleeve as far up as I could, slid the mast in, leaving it a few millimetres up and soldered the wires from the mast to the ones  coming out from under the deck.

 

Pushed the mast all the way down and tucked the wire connections in the space between the mast and the deck. 

 

Checked that all is well with the connections and lantern lights up. The sleeve will be pushed down in place and glued and it will cover all the gap and wire connections.  I am not gluing it in place until I have the other two masts in place and all three perfectly lined.

 

 

So basically I have all the wiring ready except for the three lanterns at the stern, but those will come at a much later time because if I fit them now I am sure I will nock them down quite a few times while rigging.

 

I will soon post some more photos when I have the other two masts in place and lined.

 

Robert

Edited January 8, 2021 by Robert29

[MartinB]

That lantern all the way up there. Very, very nice.

Martin.

[Robert29]

Thank you Martin.

 

All three masts up.  To align the three masts I tied a string to the ceiling with a weight at the lower end.

 

From the bow, masts in line with the string and with each other.

 

From the stern. The three masts in line with each other.

 

 

 

Sleeve for the main mast pushed down in place and glued. For the fore and mizzen masts I dropped some glue inside the holes, to go down the very bottom, pushed in the masts and glued the sleeve to the deck and mast together.  I used white glue all the way to give me time to adjust align the masts.

 

 

Robert

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by Bertu

[Robert29]

I have a small question.  As I am in the process of preparing the yards etc, when I came to the Jackstaff and the flag pole I was wondering if at the top they had a block or a sheave to hoist up the flag.  Anybody has the answer for this please?  I tried to look it up, but still not sure what was used.

 

As I also soon have to do the hammock cranes I bought some tulle,  I could only find nylon.  I thought it looked quite unrealistic. 

    

 

Then from a drapery store I found this.

 

Although it is made from polyester it can take some dying.  I tried it with tea.  I think it looks better.  The left part is dyed and the right part is as is.

 

Robert

[md1400cs]

Robert,

 

Could be a combination of mast caps and or small blocks. These images may be helpful. Looked through my copy of The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, but found no references to your question.

last image from a kit 

 

[Robert29]

Hi MD,

 

Thank you for taking the time to source an answer for my question.  The images are very informative.  I think you are right, it could be a combination of both. 

 

Robert

[Robert29]

I painted all the yards, stunsail booms, gaffs, etc and rigged all the blocks, pendants and stirrups that have to go on the yards,  hoping I did not miss any because it would be more difficult to rig them when the yards are in place.  I also fitted the horses but as you can see from the photos they are not adjusted correctly.  The outer end of the horse is tied to the yard accordingly, passed through the eyes of the stirrups, but the inner end I left loose around the yard.  I will adjust these to the correct position with a sagging effect and tie properly the end of the horse just before I fit the yards in place.  I made the stirrups from 0.5mm black coated copper wire I already had.  It had a shiny look so I painted them mat black.  I was thinking of making them from thread, but I think it would be a bit difficult for them and the horses to keep the right shape. 

 

Blocks rigged to yard before fitting the stunsail booms to the yards.

 

 

Rigging the two buntline blocks and the tye block that go in the centre of the topmast yard.

 

 

 

Foremast Yards

 

 

 

 

Mainmast Yards

 

 

 

 

 

Mizzenmast Yards

 

 

 

 

Now, that I know that I have the yards ready when I come to them I have to concentrate on the wok that still has to be done on deck and on the hull before I start the rigging, such as the fire buckets and the hammock crane nettings.  I have ordered some very small decals of the monogram that goes on the fire buckets.  But unfortunately it is taking some time.  

 

Robert

[Helli]

Hello,

 

Excellent work. I very much like to drop by and admire the result.

 

Helli

[Heinz6672]

Hello Robert, 

 

wonderful work! Congratulation! Very clean, down to the smallest detail!

And thanks for the photos. They will serve as a template for me 🙂

 

Best to you!

 

-Heinz-

[Robert29]

Helli and Heinz, thank you for your kind words.  I keep a close follow up on the wonderful work on your Victory.  

 

I started work on the hammock cranes, never thought I would spend so much time on them.  I spent ages to decide which material to use until I found sort of a netting made of polyester which in my opinion was the nearest to simulate the real net.  I would have preferred to try something in cotton, but couldn't find any in local drapery shops. Then again spent a lot of time trying different ways how to do them, most of the time they were not coming out to my satisfaction.  In my opinion they have to look realistic as much as possible because they are a feature that is going to show a lot,  it goes round all the ship.

 

These photos are my first try.  I wanted to fit the net with a diamond pattern position.  I cut the material from one corner to another, leaving a bit extra so that the thread of the material does not come apart from each other.  It is not like tulle, made from one piece in nylon,  the thread across each other is sewn together. First I passed a thread all along the edge of the net, going from one hole to the other, then I sewed it to the line fitted to the cranes.  This was the result.  As you can see where the net meets the line going along from one crane to the other, did not look good at all, the edge of the net protruded too much from the top.  Did not like at all.

 

 

I took a different approach. I cut the netting from one corner to the other as close as possible.  But the problem was if I tried to tie the netting to the line like that the edge corners of the net will come apart with the slightest tension on them. So after cutting them I went over all the edge corners with a dab of CA glue to keep them together.  After that I put the net for a few hours in a tea solution to darken it a bit.  Even though the net is made of polyester it still darkened a bit, it became more or less the same colour of the supplied thread with the kit.

 

Instead of 0.1mm thread (as suggested in the instruction manual)  for the rope along the cranes, I used the 0.25mm so as to be able to hide the edge of the net as much as possible. I tied the line securely from one end to the crane but the other end I left tied loosely so that while sewing the net to it, it will be able to pull back a bit to form that saging look. 

 

 

Then sewed the net in to the line going through the cranes with the thinnest thread I had available.  I don't know the size, but it is less then 0.1mm, this time passing the sewing thread directly through the glued corners and round the line across the cranes. I also passed a line along the inside lower corners of the net, tying it with every crane so that the net will keep its shape.  In the end I went over with diluted white glue all along the edge, where the line going across the cranes and the net are sewed together. 

 

 

 

 

  

 

I think it looks much better then my first try.  Now I will continue doing the rest of them the same way.  I know it is going to take me a while to do them all but I think the result is worth the trouble.

 

Robert

Edited December 30, 2020 by Robert29
Spelling mistakes

[mort stoll]

well worth the trouble.

[Heinz6672]

Hello Robert,

I had the same problems. At first I didn't know where I could get a suitable network from. I tried fly screens and looked for fabrics. I didn't like anything. So I tried to see if I could knit, hackle or knot a net myself. And doing it myself worked very well. However, it was a lot of work. Just like everything else on the model. But now I'm happy that I don't have any plastic on the ship.

I did the fastening of the net just like you did. If I see that correctly. I "sewed" it in over the stretched cord. Looks good and holds up well.

 

Heinz

[Robert29]

Hello Heinz

You did a wonderful job with the netting on your Victory.   When I had just the nylon tulle I was thinking of having a go at doing the net myself after I saw yours and Nick's (Pompey2). It looks great on both.  But to be honest I was trying to avoid it, as you said yourself it is a lot of work, and wasn't sure if I could make it that good.  So when I found the other material, although I would have preferred it in cotton then polyester I thought it would do the job good enough and save a lot of work.   

 

Robert

[Robert29]

Progress on the hammock cranes and netting is very slow.  I finished both Forecastle hammock cranes.

 

 

Also finished the Quarter Barricade Hammock Cranes and the Poop Deck Hammock Cranes with netting.

 

 

  

 

 

Once I dry fitted the waist hammock cranes I realised that when fitting the anchor, the side that rests on the palm block has to go through the netting of the hammock cranes.  I have to see if I can do something more realistic than just cutting a slit in the net.

  

 

Robert

[Helli]

Hello,

 

Speed is not the question.
Great work you are doing.

 

Merry christmas and a happy healthy new year!

 

 

Helli

[Robert29]

Merry Christmas and a happy healthy New Year to you too Helli and to all members of this great forum. 

 

Robert 

[michael101]

as always beautiful work!

[Robert29]

Thank you Michael,

 

A small update on the hammock cranes.

 

I finished the waist hammock cranes with the netting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The area where the anchor is going to rest I decided that it is best to leave it with no netting at all,

 

 

Before I carry on with the poop and the quarterdeck hammock cranes I would prefer to finish and fit in place the fire buckets but I am still waiting to receive the monogram decals I had ordered.  Hopefully I will receive them by next week.  

 

Robert

[Roberts Orca]

You sir, do AMAZING work. I am in awe of the craftsmanship. I hope you don't mind me (a beginner) following you. I'm hoping that having the same first name somehow will be of great benefit to me 😂. Seriously, congratulations on your superb build. Just WOW!!

[Heinz6672]

Robert,

 

what a fantastic result. It looks so realistic and neatly worked.

I really don't know, what I like more: yours or mine :-))))

(I am joking... I like both!)

 

Happy new year to you and your family !!!

[Robert29]

Roberts, 

Thank you for your nice comments.  I learned a lot from this forum from other builders, so I definitely don't mind welcoming you on board, and wherever I can help you don't hesitate to ask. Happy new year.

 

Heinz,

thank you and a happy new year to you and your family too.

 

Robert

 

 

[paulb]

Very nice progress Robert. Way ahead of my Victory!! 

[Robert29]

Thank you Paul,  not really way ahead of you, I notice in your build that you have finished parts that I haven't done yet, such as fitting the gunport lids in place and other work.  You are doing a great job on your Victory.

 

Believe it or not I am still waiting to receive the decals for the fire buckets, which I like to finish before I continue the rest of the hammock cranes and netting.  In the meantime I thought I might as well do something else, so I prepared the four big anchors.

 

In the kit manual it shows the stock of the anchor tapered only on the underside. But from the this drawing and from internet images it is clearly tapered on the sides as well, only the top is flat all along.

 

 

 The drawing also shows a shoulder on the shank to keep the stock in place. I simulated this with a square brass rod by bending it in a square to fit the square part of the shank.

     

 

Bands made from styrene strips.

 

Rings shaped and all parts ready to be fitted together.

 

Shank, shoulder, stock fitted together and ring soldered in place.

 

 

Anchors painted,  pudding round the rings is simulated with black thread and four seizings with natural thread.

 

 

Robert

 

[Robert29]

Finally I received the decals and finished the fire buckets.

 

The actual fire buckets on HMS Victory were made of leather so I tried to paint them as close as I could to look like the leather colour.  I used the walnut colour paint and the red ochre.  I did not mix them together, I just dipped the brush in the walnut then in the red ochre, sort of mixing the two colours together but not getting a uniform colour.  When dry I put on the monogram decals.  Wish I had some more experience in fixing decals. When decals were dry I painted over them with matt varnish as a protector as they are quite delicate and easily scratched.  When the varnish dried some areas of the decals, where they are transparent, became a bit misty.  I went over them again with the liquid Micro Sol and became a bit better.  To the naked eye they are hardly visible but in photos they become more visible. 

 

 

With the lights inside the cabins on.

 

 

 

I also put the Roman numbers (depth markers) on the stern post.  I had ordered them together with the decals.

 

Now I can continue with the rest of the hammock cranes.

 

Robert

 

NB.  If it is of any interest to other builders I ordered the decals from Bedlam Creations. (www.bedlamcreations.com).  You give them the image of what you want, dimensions and they do it for you.  I know you can do them yourself on a computer, but when doing very small decals, if you do not have a very good printer that can print in very small fine details they will not come out good.

 

 

 

 

[Anthony Hearne]

amazing