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USS Essex CV-9 by CDW (Craig) - Trumpeter - 1:350 - PLASTIC


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Nikons are pretty good. I bought my Canon DSLR when that technology was still quite new, so I stuck with it, since it isn't a bad camera (actually very good), and I like the size. Those pocket things never feel trustworthy if you get my drift. The coolpix I bought for the quick snapshots. I don't use my smartphone a lot for pictures ... it's a phone, that's the primary use for me, I'm not interested in other uses for it. To be honest, the frickin thing is mostly in my backpack with me laptop, people complain they can't get hold of me ... not my problem :)

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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The last 12 years before I retired, worked directly under a US Army Major General. Brilliant guy, but very strict and uber serious all the time. He issued me a Blackberry and expected me to wear it all the time in case he needed to call me after hours for emergency. The Blackberry was rather bulky and uncomfortable to carry on my belt, so I would take it off and place it on my desk top while at work then put it on my belt before I left the office.

I never got a call from the boss until one day when I forgot to put the phone on my belt before I left the office for the day. He called me and could hear my cell phone ringing in my office next door to his. Next day, he called me all kinds of unsavory names. Needless to say, I did not forget the phone again.

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Dry fitting the flight deck to the ship's hull, one can realize there are fit issues with this Trumpeter kit. The flight deck locating protrusions on the bottom side of the deck do not line up properly with the hull parts. As a result, it will be necessary to remove much if not all of the locators. They just don't fit. There is a lot of delicate metal work that goes into the construction of the cat walks and gun stations that line the outside of the flight deck. It is critical to deal with the fit issues now, before the additional detail is added, or else risk the destruction and perhaps loss of small photo etch items while trying to force a fit of the deck to the hull. Not cool. 

 

These pictures show the aft end of the ship and some of the photo etch provided in the Pontos set. Still much more to add on the aft end.

 

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That's nice work, I'm tempted to do an aircraft carrier next, I love the metalwork on them, but I'm hoping something from WW1 comes out.

You might check out Loose Cannon. They do/did an HMS Furious from 1917/1918. Two separate decks with "taxiways" from the aft platform to the forward one. Power projection in it's infancy.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Here in the USA, Freetime Hobbies carries a number of the Loose Cannon ship models, but they all appear to be in 1/700 scale. Did they do anything in 1/350 scale?

 

PS:

 

I am travelling up that way next week and will try to make a stop by Freetime Hobbies, near Atlanta, Ga. 

They carry quite a large inventory of models and after market. Not too many of those retail establishments around anymore these days.

Edited by daddyrabbit1954
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DR, you will lose your mind walking into Freetime. Aftermarket for many kits. Kits from places I didn't know made kits. :o  It's a good thing it's about 3 hours from me or I'd go broke there. :D :D

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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The flight deck wasn't very cooperative. It's a 3 piece affair and each of the 3 pieces were warped. This required glue and clamps on the deck pieces then waiting overnight for them to dry. Afterward, the deck was still warped and required serious clamping to the hull to ensure it all layed down nice and flat. This took another day to dry.

 

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There is an awful lot of metalwork that goes both on the outside as well as the bottom side of the flight deck. It really does add spice to the otherwise bland stock kit parts. But who the heck besides me is ever going to look at all this when it's done?

I guess we modelers are a strange bunch the way we throw ourselves into these various projects. But wow, it's so much fun and it gets better as I go along with this project. Still lots of work to do and many many more details. Soon, I need to paint the hull.

 

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Wow... what boggles my mind is the detail that the PE provides.  Where was this stuff 30-40 years ago when I was into plastic ship???   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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If you saw one of these Pontos sets first hand, you would really be amazed. The minute detail in both the photo etch as well as the cast resin is astounding. All the turned brass is first rate, too.

Until the advent of computer assisted drawing and manufacturing, this kind of detail would not have been possible in a marketed set. Maybe some uber talented individual could create it, but put it in production, no.

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  • 1 month later...

Looking realy nice  :)

 

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks guys, for the likes and the kind comments.

Still to be added are ladders, more radar and towers, gun control directors, three HF antennae, a half dozen or more 20mm guns, and various bits and pieces.

I added another 25% of it since those last photos and am going to try and finish it today and tomorrow.

 

Soon, I am going to paint the hull and try to figure out the wooden deck. There are a lot of photo etch pieces that go on the deck but very little information on the "plans". As good as this Pontos set is, the instructions are just horrible. Parts mis-numbered, details left out, etc.  A lot of wasted time trying to figure out how everything is supposed to go together. In the long run, the set is worth it regardless of the effort required overcoming their shoddy plans.

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Pontos has a lot of assumptions, mainly that you are an expert on the ship that your are building and know what goes where and have extensive research materials at hand. Then they leave bits out that one would think would be naturally included. That being said their products are first class.

 

I love this build and look forward to seeing you cover the deck in aircraft!

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Okay, the control tower is maybe 90% done. Will add some ladders after the assembly is attached to the deck. Also, need to build and add the 20mm AA guns as well as some search lights. The search lights I ordered from Northstar and am waiting for them to arrive. The kit provided lights are pretty lame, devoid of detail.

 

Make sure not to sneeze or break wind while you're viewing these pictures. The shock wave is very likely to knock off some of these small parts. :piratetongueor4: 

 

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Looking great - all that  PE makes such a difference - how do you apply it  CA  or PVA ?

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks for your kind comments OC.

I use both CA as well as an acrylic glue called Gator Grip, depending on the particular application at hand. Gator Grip is similar to PVA in its appearance, but it dries to a much thinner, clearer, finish.

If I am gluing things that can benefit by the higher strength that CA provides and it will only require a small drop or two to do the job, CA is likely my choice. But, if I need to apply more than just a small drop, or perhaps if the part must be slid into place, I will likely prefer Gator Grip. 

A good "for instance" is where the photo etch walkways wrap around the bridge. Because those are slid into place and come in contact with the (almost) entire side/s of the bridge, I prefer Gator Grip because it dries thin, very clear, and does not mar the finish of the plastic.

After the acrylic glue is applied, I can take a wetted paint brush and use to remove any excess glue, leaving a virtually "clean" finish where the photo etch part attaches to the plastic.

In addition, if I glue photo etch doors or portholes to the model, I will also use acrylic glue for the same reasons given above.

Attaching the masts to the bridge, I use CA for it's strong hold and because only a small drop is required on each leg. 

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In addition, if I glue photo etch doors or portholes to the model, I will also use acrylic glue for the same reasons given above.

Attaching the masts to the bridge, I use CA for it's strong hold and because only a small drop is required on each leg. 

 

Looks very imposing all the brass details. Do you use a CA gel? I've got both a gel and a thin liquid for CA.The latter I would use for doors a.o. I have no knowledge whatsoever about that acrylic glue.

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Carl

 

For CA, I use this one. It is a medium viscosity glue. I particularly like the cap seal, as it doesn't become clogged so often as many CA glues tend to do.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-20-g-Super-Glue-78056/100661959

 

This is Gator Grip acrylic glue:

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

 

(I edited the link for Gorilla Glue, blue cap)

Edited by daddyrabbit1954
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