Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model

[druxey]

Hopefully equanimity and peace will return to your studio after lunch, Michael. I trust that the cat was not too traumatized.

 

Several light passes with the airbrush rather than a heavy coat will help, methinks!

[wefalck]

I know some guys who constantly turn pieces upside down and over, while the paint is drying to avoid the runny 'noses'. This is because too light coates of paint can appear grainy. The paint layer has to be deep enough so that it stretches smoothly due to the surface tension, but not so deep that is runs. Can be quite tricky and the turning over method seems to keep the layer of paint evenly thin. Didn't try it out myself, but know several people who use it successfully.

[jbshan]

I was taught to stay back from the work piece so that the paint was just shy of dry when it hit the piece and do a few light coats.  Being that your funnel is all metal, you can bake the paint on in the oven.  Set the temp to just barely on, 200 degs or so so the paint smell goes away.  Maybe 10 or 15 minutes.  Make yourself a stand to hold the piece while you paint as well.  In your case maybe a tapered vertical post to jam into the funnel tube.  Paint a little, rotate, paint, rotate and so on.  If the base is big enough you could pick it up (gloves helpful) and do the inside.  Just some thoughts, Sir.

Edited November 18, 2016 by jbshan

[michael mott]

 

Several light passes with the airbrush rather than a heavy coat will help, methinks!

Druxey, the thing is I knew this! I have done a great deal of painting on the Architectural models, and with a great variety of colors textures and finishes both gloss and flat. but it has been about 20 years since I did all that.

 

I'm going to put it down to a memory lapse, or its November and it's getting cold.

 

 

I know some guys who constantly turn pieces upside down and over, while the paint is drying to avoid the runny 'noses'

Wefalck doing that would send me to the funny farm.

 

 

I was taught to stay back from the work piece so that the paint was just shy of dry when it hit the piece and do a few light coats.

Basically how I used to do it, I also used to cut some enamel with Lacquer thinner it dried faster as well.

I had not given the baking any thought, but would certainly be worth doing some experiments with it.

 

I did build myself a small turntable for the funnels, the key is getting the paint filtered as well "Ladies Hose" works very well for this.

 

Michael

[jbshan]

I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish.

The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began.  The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.

Edited November 17, 2016 by jbshan

[cog]

Perhaps you should practise on some scrap metal, Michael. When I used to paint my white metal model cars, every time I had to do one I first tried to get the feel of the rattle can's paint using it on some object to find out how quickly it would start to run. Sometimes I was lucky finding the best way at the first try, usually it took me a few tries though ...

[michael mott]

 

Perhaps you should practise on some scrap metal,

Carl I am practicing on some scrap metal... it just happens to look like a funnel

 

michael

Edited November 18, 2016 by michael mott

[popeye the sailor]

you made a key point Michael.......it's getting colder.  I've already pulled all my paint stuff from the garage.   back in the cellar......sad to say.   working with metal parts,  you could also heat up the part a little before spraying.  that will help with the cure time.   since the rig I use uses the 1/4 oz bottles,  I'll mix my paint,  and then put it in my pocket for a short time.  sounds odd,  but given the temp in which paint will cure well,  is crucial.    light coats will give the next coat a good foundation to adhere to

 

the flipping parts over continuously does work to some degree.......but I'm not into watching paint dry    although,  since your dealing with a cylinder type part,  you could fit in on your lathe..........there you are.......DIY centrifuge!    

[michael mott]

Denis thanks for the tips on painting, The colder weather here is an issue to deal with for sure. I have to work hard to keep the temperature even-ish in the shop during these colder months, I use a wood stove to keep the shop warm and that is the main reason that I chose to keep the model in the house.

 

I just finished lighting the wood stove which heats up the floor via a heat exchanger that keep the glycol in the loops warm.I monitor a number of parameters throughout the day. for instance this morning

at 8:45am

inside temp 5c

outside temp -5c

glycol out to floor 50f

glycol back to tank 45f

weather overcast

By mid day the glycol is up to 60 -65 out and 55-60 back in and the shop gets up to 15-18c it is odd using both scales but the gauges are that way and it keeps me aware of the differences.

 

I do this a few times per day I knew that the fluctuation would not be good for the model so that is the reason for setting up the spare room as a clean room for the model. Frankly it is a lot more comfortable. when the temp gets to the lower extremes of -25 to -30c then I have to keep the fire lit all the time makes for short sleeps.

 

I too keep the liquids paint etc in the house over the winter.

 

Michael

[cog]

Carl I am practicing on some scrap metal... it just happens to look like a funnel

 

michael

Shows the quality of your scrap metal ..

[michael mott]

I once again want to thank all who are visiting this work.

 

I am working on the painting of the sheet metal that will go back along the side under the boat deck.

 

I keep finding evidence of earlier damage that was repaired. Here are a couple of pictures that are particularly relevant to the rework of the side because it fits so close to the previous repair work.

The fracture line along the deck edge is the recent damage, you can see that the edge was repainted in the past, the color and patina difference is quite evident on close inspection.

 

 

 

I am documenting this because I am concerned about the overall finish as my work comes together, because this earlier damage and repair was not apparent during the initial inspection. The other question is I am wondering when this earlier work was carried out.

 

My guess is that it was carried out before the present owner took possession of it. and knowing the reputation of the owner before them I am guessing that the work was done potentially more than 30 years ago.

 

My scope of work does not include reworking earlier repairs to a higher standard, so it is a little concerning.

 

This particular edge is going to be right next to the reworked side sheet metal, I am going to make a couple of shaped detail sanding sticks in order to smooth out the fracture paint line and match the best I can the original slightly more satin finish of the original. there were two ports that were painted over during the first repair of this area I am considering replacing them even though they have been missing for some time.    

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Now that adds a real complication to your work, Michael.  I think I'd be inclined to restore the restoration, where possible.

 

John

[KeithAug]

Michael 

 

Some of the original paintwork looks a bit rough and ready - is it just the photo magnification or is it a fairly indifferent brushed finish? Your biggest problem may become toning down your normal quality! 

[druxey]

In cases of this nature, when earlier and poorer work becomes apparent, consultation with the owner can clarify one's direction. Some prefer earlier work left 'as is', others want a better rework of the dodgy bits. Either way, photo records are essential along with condition and treatment reports.

 

Is the old damage such that you could make an educated guess as to what might have happened to the model?

 

Remember I mentioned that often stuff turns up that one didn't see earlier? There it is! Seriously, it looks like you are doing a fine job, Michael.

[thibaultron]

I remember a car restoration show I saw several years ago. They started with a late 60s muscle car, to be restored. As they stripped the body, they found more and more hidden rust. Finally they replaced all the sheet metal, except the piece between the rear window and the trunk!! The modern version of  a "Great Rebuild"!

[amateur]

Definitely somerhing to discuss with the owner.

with the finnels you decided to go back to the 'asbuild', so why not here?

 

Jan

[michael mott]

 

I think I'd be inclined to restore the restoration, where possible.

John, that is certainly my intuitive reaction,.....I don't want to fall down that rabbit hole so far though that it would be a long climb back out.

 

 

Your biggest problem may become toning down your normal quality!

Keith this is a really tough one, as I am sure that all of us strive to do our best when we do things. It is hard to change character and do different "work" (this must be one of the most difficult aspects of an actors career to portray a person who is abhorrent to their own personality) it just goes against the grain, although philosophically being able to represent "what is" takes some careful work in its own right.

 

 

In cases of this nature, when earlier and poorer work becomes apparent, consultation with the owner can clarify one's direction.

Druxey, this is the path I am taking at this point because the earlier damaged area will only become more apparent if it is not addressed, I am not comfortable with that, but I do have to follow the clients wishes.

 

 

The modern version of  a "Great Rebuild"!

I sometime think that some of the Classic Yachts out there are really just modern iterations of their old selves with a couple of token parts that were part of the original.

 

 

with the finnels you decided to go back to the 'asbuild', so why not here?

Jan, a good point, the only difference regarding this is that I did state in my proposal to the owner that the funnels would need to be repainted, because the damage was obvious. If I go about redoing the earlier damage it could become a never ending story regarding a hull repaint...... and I really don't want to go there. I did state that if the side of the hull needed to be redone because of the damage amidships where the paint is scratched and dented it would change the nature of my engagement. So the client does have that option, or perhaps a portion of it. The issue being that the side cannot be repainted properly without removing all the brass fixings that are embedded. and that is a huge task.

 

Well for the time being I shall continue with the work that I can and needs to be done.

 

Thanks for all your thoughts.

 

Michael

[popeye the sailor]

the thing to do is check it out........can it be pulled apart.  if it can,  then perhaps some epoxy or a cement can be used to repair it.   the crack is obvious and looks like it goes along the entire structure.   I know you don't want to go down the rabbit hole that far,  but who know how much more damage you'll uncover.   you mentioned you want to replace the two missing portholes.......it might be good to take one off for a proto type.

 

actually.......I'm a bit surprised that they were happy with the early repair.....leaving a crack like that visible.   then again,  who really know what a crash like that will deal out for damage?!

[michael mott]

 

the crack is obvious and looks like it goes along the entire structure.   I know you don't want to go down the rabbit hole that far

Just to be clear Denis the piece that is cracked was completely off the model when the side was twisted away from the boat deck I reattached it after splicing in the new section, and was prepared to sand and fill the gap along the crack what I had not realized at the time was that the crack was part of an earlier damage and not the recent one. It was when moving my lighting around that the difference in color and the lower quality paint at the forward end became apparent. the crack is not quite as bad as the pictures make it appear the wood is solid and well glued. the hull and deck joint are solid along the side of the hull.

 

 

 

I hope this clarifies the situation.

 

 

you mentioned you want to replace the two missing portholes.......it might be good to take one off for a proto type.

Yes this is definitely one thing that I am considering I have the pins to attach new ones and I can put the patina on them with the hot soldering gun.

 

 

Michael

[wefalck]

Well, that seems to be common problem with restorations: once you take things apart and a closer look, you find all sorts of hidden problems and incompetent repairs ... glad that I am not doing such work and certainly not for money

[michael mott]

 

glad that I am not doing such work and certainly not for money

Hi Wefalck yes these things do have a tendency to expand, being retired and not really treating this as a needed project for survival but an opportunity to give back to my community and to share some of the methods and work that might benefit the model community at the same time, is the main reason for taking on this project. That it includes some remuneration to cover some time and costs is welcome.

 

If I were doing this as a commercial project as I used to do I would be working in an entirely different mode, and the project would most likely be out of range financially for the client.

 

That said I realize that there are those who are doing this sort of work for their livelihood, and I have no intention of moving into this line of work on any scale this is a one off as far as I am concerned. I am confident that this project would not have happened at commercial rates and this model would have been written off. Eventually it will return to public display, which in my view is a good thing.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the visits, and the likes. it continues to be encouraging.

 

I unmasked the dummy funnel  and decided that the "no sew" works well as a mask even after a week the mask was still strong and pliable and peeled off easily. The color of the black is good the tan still needs work.

 

 

 

I have been using the third hand for all sorts of little tasks now. I am very happy that I took the time to make it.

 

here I used it to solder one of the jump rings back together. after setting everything up I used a tiny brush and put a drop of Duzall flux on the joint and took a .5 x .5mm small flat of solder placed it on the ring then with the hot air soldering gun with low flow air a couple of strokes 15mm away and the solder flowed over the joint

 

 

Today I began removing a few of the ports where the most damage to the side of the hull was sustained I used the flush cut nippers to grip and pull out the ports, because these are each unique..... yes indeed unique I placed them in order on some green felt (no I didn't cut it off the billiard table Denis) it only took ten minutes to find the one I dropped one of the pins fell into the waste basket (I found it under the flap of an envelope).

 

 

Finally I am putting some primer along the joint I will let it harden for a few days then re-sand and repeat a few times to blend in the crack.

 

 

Michael

[cog]

That is some awe inspiring soldering Michael. I never thought it possible

[druxey]

If the crack is open a little, a touch of Bondo will fix it.... Good luck with all those ports and pins!

[BANYAN]

I had not seen this topic before and sorry to have missed it

 

That is 'some' restoration, and glad it is you rather than me.  You're doing an excellent job of restoration Michael, I will be sure to follow this topic more closely now that I have found it.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[amateur]

Lookimg at the last picture: this area has been repainted, bur it looks as if two portholes were missing before the last repaint.

Or are these two recent damage?

 

Jan

Edited November 25, 2016 by amateur

[michael mott]

Carl, thanks for your compliment.

Druxey thanks for the tip on the Bondo.

Pat welcome aboard.

Jan, you are correct the ship has been repaired in the past and the damage did occur in a similar place along the edge of the deck. There is no record that we know of that covers that part of the ships history. and the missing ports were as you have stated just painted over.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

I have started using the new third hand to work on the cable stays, the longer reach is helpful, Of course I could have just made a longer bar for the first one, but why only have one third hand when you can have two.

 

 

 

What can I say?.... I'm a tool Junkie, and it is fun making them.

 

Michael

[KeithAug]

Michael - you could just stop the restoration and go into 3rd hand production. I'm sure you would find many buyers. 

[captainbob]

With interchangeable clamps yet.  Took Junkie supreme.

 

Bob