Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set

[semorebutts]

[semorebutts]

Worked on the Bismarck a little bit more today.

 

Oliver was yelling so I brought him in to keep me company, but I made him promise not to poop on my workbench.

So, pretty much the same process I've been using this whole week.

So I'm not sure weather to paint the two whistles or to keep them brass. I have to do some research.

I hate seeing glue spots like that. Once I turn this part over I will never see the glue spots again, so I will tolerate it.

Talk to you all soon!

[semorebutts]

[Dan Vadas]

On 09/10/2017 at 3:22 AM, semorebutts said:

I have no idea why those last five photos showed up after I wrote "thanks for looking everyone!"  weird...

I deleted them from the post for you. If you don't want them to show you need to delete the actual Downloaded pics at the bottom of the Edit Box - there's a small "Garbage Can" in the bottom-right of each pic. It's a bit hard to see until you run your Mouse over it.

 

I also fixed up the two upside-down pics .

 

Very nice work on the PE detailing. I'll be referencing this Build Log when the time comes to add those details to my Card Bismarck . Keep up the great work.

 

  Danny

[semorebutts]

Thank you Danny! 

[hof00]

Nice work Sir!!

Following your build with interest.

 

I have this kit and the MK 1 Detail set awaiting my attentions....

Having never worked with PE what surface are you using to cut the PE out of the Fret? (I see you use a #11 Blade)

 

Cheers....HOF.

[semorebutts]

Hi Hof!  I am also a rookie when it comes to PE.  First I would cut out the PE on glass but that dulled my knife quick. Then i used a slab of marble but that wAs chipping. Finally I went to thesmallshop.com ( which has awesome PE tools) and got the "photo etch cut off kit". It works great! I believe its a slab of acrylic. From what ive read in alot of articles the #22 is best in a rolling motion. I use #11 only because im lazy and havnt gotten #22 yet.  Be cautious thought, Just push straight down till you here a snap or you know it went through.  Do not slide the blade in a slicing motion you will bend and mess up the PE. I learned that the hard way on some delicate railings. 

 

I hope this helped. 

[hof00]

Thanks Chap,

I'll see what sort of Acrylic is around.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[Captain Slog]

51 minutes ago, hof00 said:

Thanks Chap,

I'll see what sort of Acrylic is around.

 

Cheers....HOF.

I just use old CD/DVDs, plenty hard enough to stop the PE deforming and easy on the blade like acrylic. Also cheap and readily available, just throw out when both sides are worn. I use a business card to hold the fret so the freed piece doesn't ping away into the ether. 

 

Cheers

Slog

Edited October 15, 2017 by Captain Slog

[semorebutts]

It came with 2 pieces of acrylic so theres 4 sides to wear out. Im still on the first side. and these 2 clear things help alot too. 

just posting few more photos. Im now ready for all the deck fittings and the 2 radars on this superstructure piece. Then break it down, airbrush it, weather it and reassemble. 

 

 

[Cathead]

Very nice work so far. I've never worked with PE before so it's interesting to see your progress and methods.

[Dan Vadas]

I find these tools very useful when working with PE - PE Scissors, PE Bending Pliers .

 

The scissors are a bit different to mine, same brand but mine are more like side-cutters - very sharp and accurate with thin blades that can get into the small areas of a PE card. I can't remember where I bought them, somewhere on Ebay no doubt.

 

The Bending Pliers are specially made for PE. The long flat blades close evenly for their length, so you can do bends in quite long pieces. They also are very accurate.

 

Neither are cheap (shop around if using Ebay, the prices vary greatly) but you get value for money.

 

  Danny

[semorebutts]

Hey danny. I have the tamiya long bending pliers and its great! I bend most of my PE with them.  I have allways wanted to try the PE scissors, but im always worried they will bend or warp the PE. Ive heard people swear by them so i  going to give them a try. 

[Dan Vadas]

2 hours ago, semorebutts said:

im always worried they will bend or warp the PE

No problems with that, they were designed for the job .

 

Another very useful cutting tool for PE is a short-blade knife. The blade doesn't flex when cutting PE. It's the one in the middle in the pic. On the left is a standard #11 Xacto, which I hardly use any more. The one on the right is a Swann-Morton Scalpel, much sharper than an Xacto and doesn't break the tip due to it's rounded design on the top edge. BTW - I use a block of MDF to cut PE on if I can't use the side-cutters for some reason. It works well .

 

Here's a Link to some spare blades I bought for the short knife. It only seems to be available from this company, so I'd advise you to get plenty of spare blades from them if you buy the knife.

 

 

  Danny

[semorebutts]

Awesome info thanks Danny! For my next model ( the Missouri) I am going to buy a scalpel! 

[John Allen]

Is your name Seemore or Butts

 

Very nice clean build to date!

[semorebutts]

Thank you John.  first name Semore, last name Butts.  but in reality my name is Scott.

Edited October 15, 2017 by semorebutts

[John Allen]

Scott,

 

Cool,  lot of nice pics. 

[popeye the sailor]

wonderful progress Scott.......really looking very nice     

[RGL]

I love it how Cog, OC and I are not the only ones with the PE addiction. Looking forward to us plastics group growing. 

[semorebutts]

started on radar I and radar II.  I'm just doing the bodies first then ill come back and bend the PE radar. Not sure if i should paint the radar black then bend it or bend it then paint it black. 

 

Radar I, you can see the piece to be airbrushed black still on the PE sheet. 

Starting radar II , which seem a little bit more complex. 

 

That is all for now.  

 

 

[yvesvidal]

So, if I follow you correctly, you use the plastic steps as a guide for the drilling of your ladder rungs.

Once drilled, you then remove the excess plastic (molding) to a smooth surface.

You then glue the steps....et voila.

 

Yves

[semorebutts]

Yup that's exactly what i do! though I just realized that the ends of the ladder rungs are ment to be bent 90 degrees so you don't have to drill holes.  I'm still going to drill holes though.

 

Rob

[Dan Vadas]

49 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

Not sure if i should paint the radar black then bend it or bend it then paint it black. 

You'll most likely lose a bit of paint when you bend them, but it can be touched up with a small paint brush when installed. Airbrushing them first would ensure you get coverage on all of it, as long as it won't affect gluing them together - CA won't stick very well to paint, or rather the paint would come off the brass.

 

  Danny

[semorebutts]

Hey Danny,  yes thats what I was thinking too. I think it's better to touch up some paint than not being able get paint into all the nooks and crannys once bent. 

[Dan Vadas]

Just now, semorebutts said:

Hey Danny,  yes thats what I was thinking too. I think it's better to touch up some paint than not being able get paint into all the nooks and crannys once bent. 

Yep, that's what I meant .

 

Danny

[semorebutts]

The body of radar II is done. Next is  both radars and all of the deck fittings for the superstructure section I've been working on.  Then paint, weather, wooden decks and railings. 

Goodnight everyone. 

[Robin Lous]

Nitpicking allert!

 

The "bodies" are actually the rangefinders...not just the radar mounts. 

[semorebutts]

Making 7 searchlights. And ready for paint. 

Well I'm off to airbrush

[semorebutts]

and painted 🙂