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Posted
On 10/31/2018 at 2:44 PM, Valeriy V said:

Is there a reason you are building the model in two halves, Valeriy? Lovely work so far.

I am just catching up to this build and find it fascinating and your execution is superb! When Druxey asked the above question I recalled Mowll's work in Ship In Scale;  (Nov/Dec 2014, p12-25) using the same method. Your answer now clinches my thoughts about this method. Given that you can apply laser machining to the keel halves it, further makes sense to me. This as you show enables the bulkheads to be linearly and perpendicularly placed accurately. If indeed the keel half's are twisted from their plane datum one can compensate for the problem by selecting wood orientation. Oh to have access to such a technology!

Joe

Posted
1 hour ago, Thistle17 said:

I am just catching up to this build and find it fascinating and your execution is superb! When Druxey asked the above question I recalled Mowll's work in Ship In Scale;  (Nov/Dec 2014, p12-25) using the same method. Your answer now clinches my thoughts about this method. Given that you can apply laser machining to the keel halves it, further makes sense to me. This as you show enables the bulkheads to be linearly and perpendicularly placed accurately. If indeed the keel half's are twisted from their plane datum one can compensate for the problem by selecting wood orientation. Oh to have access to such a technology!

Joe

Joe, of course, this method simplifies and facilitates the installation of frames.  With regard to the twisted keel, it is still easier to prevent this from twisting than correcting it later.

  According to this technology, the casing is impregnated with epoxy resin and a large shrinkage of the resin occurs during drying. So she leads to twisting deformations. Using the two halves of the model can be guaranteed to avoid such deformations.

   

Posted
8 hours ago, Thistle17 said:

Thank you Valeriy, not having built a model with an epoxied hull, I did not appreciate that factor as well. I always learn from others on this site. I will follow your work and eagerly learn. We have a member in our group who builds military watercraft of this era and I have alerted him to your log as well.

Joe

Joe, I'm glad to help. We all learn a little from each other here.

Posted

your work is amazing......the metal work is awesome......those casements look superb.  it must have taken some time to master these techniques. ;) 

    really impressed with your work!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted (edited)

I thought the radius of that brass strip would be larger. The quality of your metalwork is great.

question: you said the metalwork will be left visible. Does that also holdfor those casements?  And if so: how are yougoing to polish them without damaging your superb hull finish?

 

Jan

Edited by amateur
Posted
14 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

your work is amazing......the metal work is awesome......those casements look superb.  it must have taken some time to master these techniques. ;) 

    really impressed with your work!

Thank you  Popeye! It is possible to learn how to solder in a couple of months, it is not as cool as it seems.

Posted
6 hours ago, amateur said:

I thought the radius of that brass strip would be larger. The quality of your metalwork is great.

question: you said the metalwork will be left visible. Does that also holdfor those casements?  And if so: how are yougoing to polish them without damaging your superb hull finish?

 

Jan

Jean, this does not apply to the hull and large parts of the ship. I hope in the process of building a model, you will see everything. :) 

Posted
3 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

I am amazed how you work with brass and solder. You truly are an artist.

This model is going to weight a significant amount when completed, with all these metal parts.

Yves

Thank you, Yves, for your appreciation, but I have not yet reached a high level artist. I aim for it.  :) 

This high level of metalworking is shown here:  http://www.ship-model-today.de/fotoreport.htm 

http://www.ship-model-today.de/towa2

http://www.ship-model-today.de/aelv

http://www.ship-model-today.de/balun

Posted
On 12/17/2018 at 10:59 AM, Valeriy V said:

Thank you, Yves, for your appreciation, but I have not yet reached a high level artist. I aim for it.  :) 

This high level of metalworking is shown here:  http://www.ship-model-today.de/fotoreport.htm 

http://www.ship-model-today.de/towa2

http://www.ship-model-today.de/aelv

http://www.ship-model-today.de/balun

I'm pretty sure none of them are human, that stuff is crazy.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wow, beautiful work, I didn't realise how big it was until I saw the funnels in your hand

 

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

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