CSS Alabama by J11 - Revell - 1/96 scale - PLASTIC - kit bash 90% historical accuracy

[Javlin]

Those rats add alot to her looks Kevin

[J11]

28 minutes ago, Javlin said:

Those rats add alot to her looks Kevin

Yep they were a pain but turned out half decent. Here's all of them completed and some sail lines on the bowsprit which I will have to redo because of a length mistake sadly.  ( Their in white )

 

Thanks for all the likes!!! 

 

 

[J11]

Check this beauty out: USS Constitution 222 years old and still going!!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZAJjpGnegk

[mtaylor]

Indeed it is.  We have a member here who's part of the re-enactors (USMC) of that time period and has done a couple of turn around.  Popeye2sea here on MSW.  If you're ever in Boston, ping him.

[J11]

11 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Indeed it is.  We have a member here who's part of the re-enactors (USMC) of that time period and has done a couple of turn around.  Popeye2sea here on MSW.  If you're ever in Boston, ping him.

Very nice! Hopefully one day I can do just that, have been wanting to see her in person for quite some time and would be a honor of a lifetime to go aboard. Then to have a re-enactor member escort me around her would be fantastic!

[popeye the sailor]

absolutely fabulous progress Johnathan!  the rat lines look superb!   she's coming along splendidly!      I saw one on oldmodelkits.com which has the deck and upgrades included....going for $365.00!   I believe though that Revell / Germany has reissued the kit,  along with a few others.  I as well would like a second stab at her,  but then reality sets in,  and I may never get to with all the projects I have.  as of right now,  I'm set till well into my afterlife!        she's look'in great........kudos to you!

[J11]

@popeye the sailor, thanks!! There is one on ebay for 165.00 right now. Hint, hint, hint. 

[popeye the sailor]

I'll check it out   thanks! 

[J11]

Here's the current ads for the Alabama for those interested from Ebay:

(Hope I'm not violating any rules by posting these) If so please remove this post.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/revell-CsS-alabama-vtg-model-kit-1988-1-96-scale-rare-used-good-clean-parts-htf/401928709685?hash=item5d94d16635:g:5pkAAOSwpj1drMJd

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Revell-CSS-Alabama-Vintage-1961-1-96-Sailing-Ship-Kit-Sealed-Part-bags/143418649874?hash=item21646aed12:g:xZsAAOSw74RdrkzW

[CDW]

3 minutes ago, Jonathan11 said:

Here's the current ads for the Alabama for those interested from Ebay:

I love the gorgeous vintage box art of the 2nd, more expensive kit. Revell used to have the most outstanding box art on their kits. I'm sure it did lots to enhance their sales as I would like to think I was not the only one enticed to buy kits from their box art. 😄

[J11]

@CDW, I agree about the box art. Been thinking on cutting mine out and framing it but then I destroy the box completely. hard decision!! The 1961 kit is gorgeous art!

[CDW]

With my 1961 vintage Revell Kearsarge kit, will definitely save and frame the art as the box is already in shambles, but the art is fine.

[J11]

Gentlemen if you have have the time threw my research I had found this very informative video. Basically a private class about these historical ships in the "Age of sails".

 

 

Edited October 25, 2019 by Jonathan11

[ScottRC]

I'm enjoying your build here Jonathan and I am taking notes.  I built this kit in 1991 and it got dismasted in a cross-country move.  The model is packed up and stored in a closet and I plan to build all new masts and spars and re-rig it.

 

I was in my third year in college and the local Woolworths was closing.  I got my Alabama kit for $14 and the Revell America kit for $9.  Looking at those ebay prices makes me glad that I didn't throw my wrecked Alabama out.  This build log gave me the ambition to pursue and rebuilt it.

 

Scott

[J11]

2 hours ago, ScottRC said:

I'm enjoying your build here Jonathan and I am taking notes.  I built this kit in 1991 and it got dismasted in a cross-country move.  The model is packed up and stored in a closet and I plan to build all new masts and spars and re-rig it.

 

I was in my third year in college and the local Woolworths was closing.  I got my Alabama kit for $14 and the Revell America kit for $9.  Looking at those ebay prices makes me glad that I didn't throw my wrecked Alabama out.  This build log gave me the ambition to pursue and rebuilt it.

 

Scott

Scott, glad your enjoying the build and really appreciate the interest! That's great to have held on to her and then wanting to bring her back out and fix her up. I agree on the price's for these kits now; it's incredible they keep going up in price and they seem to be disappearing quickly so they interest in them is there. What year is your kit?

 

Iv'e got the preliminary sail rigging done for the bowsprit and sizing sails now, here's test image for the sails along with telling me what size adjustments I need to make with my paper note book patterns. I'll work on enlarging them and show the pattern image corrected size soon.

 

I do have a private sail maker as I mentioned before. We are working on the sails and different material for the delicate mounting on this rigging so not to overwhelm the rigging in weight of the sails. I don't want any sagging going on and we will probably do them in paper sails which are available in different types. To produce exact cloth sails I am looking at about $300.00 which is way to high and they are way to heavy. These are some unique model parts of her which must be exact along with size and historical shape in the implementation of them. Time consuming but a high quality model is worth it!

[J11]

Here's the corrected patterns which will be adjusted a couple mm in height to match the rigging block mounts already installed. I will be gently be sewing the finished sails in place as I install them. But this procedure is further down the road as I have more rigging to do before sail installing begins.

 

[J11]

@ScottRC, here's some older plans for her which might be helpful. I am having a hard decision on changing the Jib sails to this configuration on the old plans, plus they also show the boom sails implemented. I have used the "Blue Jackets" sail plan but for some odd reason I feel this plan is better for the Jib sails placement. I need yawls opinion also on this. Should I change the bowsprit jib locations to this older plan or keep with "Blue Jackets" plan??

 

Older plans being discussed:

Here's a crop of the Blue Jackets bowsprit sail plan:

I'm leaning toward the older print as it looks more historically correct. What do you think? 

 

 

[J11]

More progress, rigging, masts and propeller.

 

[J11]

Historical information of surviving flown flags which where on board CSS Alabama.

 

This massive ensign is attributed to the CSS Alabama. Reportedly given as a gift by Semmes during the war with provenance.

 

Here's a First Navy Ensign also of the CSS Alabama

[J11]

Another update for the chains added as the original plan shows them. Plus i'm starting to see different mounts for her, this mount was supplied by the kit and will probably use it.

 

[J11]

Having to let the main model dry for glue curing on the mast parts and chain parts. So since I have more painting to do for the smaller boats, I am working on the detail piece's and mounting hardware and will install these soon.

Research into the sails to attach them onto the masts; I will have to put the sails on before I mount any more sail masts. My goal is for next month to start building the sails and installing them on the masts then one at a time put them on the associated main three masts then gently rig them in place so I don't break any of them during installation.

 

Couple of update images:

 

These are oars, gaffs, and rudders, many more oars to paint. Thanks for all the likes!  

 

 

[J11]

Update for the smaller boat work. Not a bad color contrast, I have also added a small sail on the long boats with the tie downs for added detail along with the oars and gaffs. Should have the other one's done by tomorrow and then start working on more sail patterns with adding block and tackles to the sail masts also. 

She's starting to take shape and keeping her clean is becoming more challenging as time goes by. Will be glad when she's under glass!

 

 

 

[RickyGene]

Outstanding work and your attention to detail is superb.  As for paying $150 to $250 f/a plastic kit that retailed for a quarter of that, sadly not today.  I would love to build again but if I have to spend that to do so, I will go hog crazy and buy a Bluejacket kit.  I have looked at Bluejackets kit many times and would love to have, but $739.00 and one has to purchase the copper plates @$135.00 a set!  Looks like I will not be building the Gray Lady anytime soon.

So I will set back and enjoy your build.

Rick 

[J11]

@RickyGene, don't give up because I saw one kit go for 40.00 about two months ago on ebay, so you just have to keep looking. It was a buy it now and the offering lasted about 1 day before it went poof! Plus; I do know of someone whom picked one up at a garage sale for 15.00 and it was still sealed but the box was messed up from one of the first releases. So you never know what you might find. The kit was complete and all parts undamaged.

 

I did pay a decent price for mine, but was in perfect sealed shape, sails didn't even have a ding in them! Then I have added many extra's to the kit and will be adding more to finish her out but I didn't buy them all at once. This way it's easier to get detailing parts spread out over time so not to break my model budget. I have also picked hundreds of dollars of spare model ship parts and ropes for very cheap when on ebay.  I see whole old part sets going for great prices. But you have to hunt and wait and then jump on them offers as they come up, so it's a constant treasure hunt.

 

Another option is to trade someone for the kit, so never say never.

 

Glad you are enjoying the build, it's great to have members enjoy your work and always give incentives to do the best artistic work possible on ones endeavors. Just tonight I was going over my Vasa plans and files so to start working out the procedures and material extras I will be working with along with all the colors I will be needing for the painting for her. At 42" in length she will be a large build and drooling to get back into a wooden build which are my favorite to work on. Love that wood work!!

 

I'll try to have some updates by tomorrow for the smaller boats, working on them now and as always thanks for the likes Ya'll and the interest in this build!

 

 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Hi Johnathan!

 

Which maker’s model of the Vasa are you going to build?

[J11]

2 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Hi Johnathan!

 

Which maker’s model of the Vasa are you going to build?

It's the Billings boat NR 490 kit. Don't like all the plastic that came with it but I'll make do. Plus I have been researching for extra's along with other plans for her. It will probably be a bash kit, but I'll see how it goes.

[Hubac's Historian]

Oh, cool.  Well, if you haven’t already - check out md1400’s build of the Corel version; he really did so much to make the model more authentic.  A lot of really good ideas there.

[J11]

Thank you @Hubac's Historian, for the reference material and will use it along with some of the other members build blogs on her. Doing a basic scan of his work I am indeed impressed by what he completed in his craftsmanship and quality of the build. This will help tremendously.

 

I do have my work cut out for me along with choosing a quality scroll saw which I have to pick up as all the cutting on this kit will needed. Any suggestions on a quality saw for this type of work which is versatile? 

[J11]

Here's the scroll saw I'm leaning towards:

https://www.micromark.com/16-Inch-Scroll-Saw-with-Flexible-Shaft-Attachment

 

Then this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-1-2-Amp-16-in-2-Direction-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-3921/308458373

 

 

[Bob Cleek]

Most internet rating sites rate the bottom of the line scroll saws and completely ignore the really good stuff. This is because a lot more beginners buy cheap scroll saws than experts buy expensive ones. There is a huge difference in the abilities and ease of use between the cheap scroll saws and the expensive ones. That is always to be expected, but with scroll saws, the difference is exponential not only in price, but also in quality. The "line of demarcation" is the " double parallel-link arm" design, which provides a straight up and down sawing motion, versus the "regular" arm design that provides somewhat of a "rowing" sawing motion. At less than $500, the Dewalt DW788 is the least expensive of the parallel link arm saws and very popular and it gets rave reviews from its owners. It is, however, the "bottom of the line" for "top of the line" scroll saws.

 

You will likely get a lot of use from a scroll saw and if you ever want to unload it, a quality saw will have resale value far in excess of those at the lower price points which, in many instances, are little better than "toys." If you can spend in the neighborhood of $500 to $750 (or up,) you can move into the "really, really good scroll saw" territory. Go to a good tool store, if you can find one near you, and compare the "good stuff" with the entry level scroll saws by trying them out and you will instantly see the difference. Most importantly, the less vibration, the easier and more accurate the saw will be. (Sigh... and the more it will cost.) Check out brands you've probably never heard of in the "Consumer Reports" reviews, like (pre-Chinese built) Excalibur, Hegner, Sakura ("PS Wood Machines,") King, Seyco, and Pegas. These are the brands the really serious scroll sawyers end up buying after they've outgrown their entry-level machines.

 

Not only are the more expensive scroll saws better "cutters," with low vibration being very much worth the money you pay for it, but they also offer a lot of features not otherwise found in the entry level saws. The throat and table sizes vary, which may be a consideration, or not. Interestingly, the relatively new Swiss Pegas, among a few others, has a "tilting" head which permits cutting bevels with a head that tilts instead of the table tilting to cut bevels. This is a big improvement which makes controlling  the workpiece when cutting a bevel much easier because the table is flat so you aren't working "uphill" and "downhill" as you move the piece on the table anymore. Scroll sawing can be tedious and a really good saw reduces operator fatigue, and hence increases accuracy, considerably.

 

Scroll Saw Village is a pretty good forum for scroll saw information. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/scroll-saw-reviews/  The folks on that forum seem to have a lot of experience to share, although there doesn't seem to be a lot of modelers on there.

 

As always, "you get what you pay for," but a really good tool is a joy forever and even if you have to secretly save for a few months to sneak the purchase past "She Who Must Be Obeyed," it's always worth it. Even if you aren't a master craftsman, you can still be the envy of all your friends with good tools!

 

Edited October 31, 2019 by Bob Cleek