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Old Collingwood

Mosquito B Mk IV - Revell - My next non-ship project

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2 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

Looks like you've got¬† it back OC. Done a grand job againūüėĀ

The wings were not affected  (thankfully)    that wing above was the last  to be painted  and hasn't  had that  Acrylic top coat  problem  (And Wont)   but pleased how it has come out.

 

OC.

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7 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Great save so far! I’ll have to keep your resolve to salvage it in mind for the inevitable mistakes that I do in the future! I’m glad to see the restoration; it was and is again looking very nice!

Thank you kindly,  I will admit  it nearly  took off   out the back door, but I counted to Ten instead  stomped my feet  cursed a bit  - and felt a lot better,  I did get a few words from the admiral though  along the lines off  "Why make them if they make you so upset"

 

OC.

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Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.

I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).

Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.

 

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27 minutes ago, CDW said:

Just caught up with your Mossie build thread OC. So sorry to learn about your paint troubles.

I don't want to muddy the water here, but I have to say, I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out. Simple as that. I never have an issue with any other paint over a lacquer primer, provided it's gassed out. My favorite primer is either Tamiya (in the bottle) or Mr Surfacer (in the bottle) reduced with Mr Hobby 400 Leveling Thinner. Tamiya spray primer is good, too. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).

Tamiya bottled paints are notoriously bad for brushing. They need a retarder added when brushing. When I use their bottled clear, I always thin it considerably with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner (40% paint to 60% thinner), sprayed on with an airbrush. It just does not give good results brushed from the bottle. I know it's too late now, but just for future reference.

 

Thanks Craig,   much appreciated.

 

OC.

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25 minutes ago, CDW said:

I use lacquer based primer on almost every model I build. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the paint after the application of it, it's still gassing out. When you can't smell it, it's gassed out.

I use the Alclad Gloss Black Lacquer  one for black basing and for it's adhesion but I am trying to understand exactly the gassing terminology it has a strong odor upon being laid down.

25 minutes ago, CDW said:

. Just make sure it's gassed out (smell it).

OK I think I have it had to read it a few times so once the paint has been laid you should not be able to smell the paint on the model?

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2 minutes ago, Javlin said:

I use the Alclad Gloss Black Lacquer  one for black basing and for it's adhesion but I am trying to understand exactly the gassing terminology it has a strong odor upon being laid down.

OK I think I have it had to read it a few times so once the paint has been laid you should not be able to smell the paint on the model?

Yes. After you have applied the paint and it's had time to dry (to the touch), it's gassed out when you can no longer detect the smell of the paint. If you smell it and it smells like paint, it's still gassing out.

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I think some people have missed my point, you do not put Acrylics over FRESH lacquer.... you HAVE to wait till the lacquer is completely dry. And yes that means it has to pass the smell test.... just simple dry touching will not cut it...... Even though the surface will be touch dry and your fingers will not stick, it is still outgassing and that is what causes the problem....

 

Craig is telling you true.....

 

Me, I don't have the problem with it cause I do not use acrylics, don't own them and never will... So I don't have to worry about it and sometimes I forget to fully explain....

 

Thanks Craig for picking up where I dropped the ball...

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7 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

I did get a few words from the admiral though  along the lines off  "Why make them if they make you so upset"

Sounds like we have the same Admiral ūüėč

I'm glad you didn't launch it for it's short farewell flight.

Keep the Faith OC.

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when I decant paint,  that's usually what I do.   I leave the cap loose and stir it a few times to work the propellant out.   the reasons to decant is two fold........to obtain the color you need in the event that it can only be found in rattle cans,  and to use air to atomize the paint,  rather than propellant.  I think that it too can be a factor for bad outcomes.   paint must be fully cured,  before moving on to further steps

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Some more good work  today,   first thing was to fit the Two  lens units under the wings  - these just popped in with a bit of ca run around the edge,  next was to fit the Two radiator flow control vents  under the wings, these were then painted same as the underside.

 

Then the biggy  - adjust and fit the other main  u/c  unit, again this needed  some sanding  then a good measure of ca to get a good bond,   the tricky part was locating the adjustment leg struts  (I had to keep pushing them in place as they had some flex).

 

Also  here is a pic showing the first stage of the re - paint.

 

So this is the current situation.

 

OC.

IMG_0357.JPG

IMG_0356.JPG

IMG_0358.JPG

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2 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Some more good work  today,   first thing was to fit the Two  lens units under the wings  - these just popped in with a bit of ca run around the edge,  next was to fit the Two radiator flow control vents  under the wings, these were then painted same as the underside.

 

Then the biggy  - adjust and fit the other main  u/c  unit, again this needed  some sanding  then a good measure of ca to get a good bond,   the tricky part was locating the adjustment leg struts  (I had to keep pushing them in place as they had some flex).

 

Also  here is a pic showing the first stage of the re - paint.

 

So this is the current situation.

 

OC.

 

 

Looking good my friend....

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3 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Mossie's looking fine OC, very nice recovery ūüėČ.

 

Thank you edward,   was  hit or miss    when I saw the state of the fuselage after painting on that Acrylic gloss top coat I nearly cried,   so glad I ahd not attached the wings and stabs and painted all over.

 

OC.

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