US Confederacy 1778 by Bossman - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Edwardkenway]

Very nice work Bossman, it's coming together beautifully!

[Bossman]

Thank you very much Edward. I’m having a lot of fun for my first foray back into ship modeling. 

[Landlubber Mike]

On 5/14/2020 at 6:00 PM, Bossman said:

 

Good day folks. A little more work on the hatch combings. Here I have made the bricks for the galley  I used the same jig I used for making the hatch combings. After setting the individual strips in I filed the grooves for the mortar joints. You can see my original file marks on the jig itself.  Then I staggered them and edge glued together.

 

In the second picture you can see the grey primed piece with half of it painted with a coat of base acrylic. I mixed red, brown and white until it looked right using a dry brush technique to lay it on. After this I mixed a little more brown and then black doing the same thing. I liked the result.

 

That's some of the nicest looking brickwork made out of painted wood that i've seen on here.  Excellent job!

[Bossman]

Mike, thank you very much!  Even a blind hog finds an acorn every once in a while. 

[Bossman]

 Before I blow my brains out putting in treenails, I started on a few sub assemblies. 1st was the rudder box. I used my quick and easy jig which is a piece of balsa with a scrap piece of laser cut waste glued to it. A few basswood pieces of different dimensions and push pins and you can do a lot of stuff. All I need to do is add the hinges and she’s ready to place. 

[Bossman]

Good day ladies and gents.  I finally finished the treenails on one side of the hull and put the last coat of WOP on it. Once finished with the other side I will be very happy I endured the pain of this detail. Cannons. I sanded and prayed Polyethylene on the laser cut sheet with the parts For the cannon. Then sprayed on the red. The parts are all cut and ready for finish sanding and assembly. 
 

it is amazing what a moments inattention will do. The rear axles are a bit longer than the front. A tiny bit! While cutting out the rear ones I got happy and dropped three of the front ones into the pile before realizing my mistake. I spent the next 15 minutes p, which seemed like an hour, measuring each with callipers before sorting them out!

 

[Ronald-V]

Wow you did a really nice job so far! Nice clean and detailed work! Going to follow this log  

[Bossman]

Mugje, thank you Sir! She has been a fun build. Glad you want to follow along. It’s getting to the fun parts.  Also thanks to all for the likes. They mean a great deal. 

[Chuck]

Wonderful work.  Yours is the first model of Confederacy I have seen with a white painted bottom.  It looks very good indeed.

[Bossman]

Somehow I missed your post Chuck, thank you very much! Also thanks for all the likes. 
 

I have half a side to finish the hull treenails and about 1/3rd done with the treenails on the deck. Do a few, make a cannon, do a few more, make a cannon. Yesterday and today it was galley stove time. As suggested in the directions, I chose to make the lower stack out of a solid piece. The thin basswood pieces just didn’t work for me. 

 

I used craft paper for the reinforcement around the stove and added everything but the rotisserie. There is a laser cut grill, lower back, and a photo etch grill. I glued the photo etched grill to the wood grill. The laser cut grill was too delicate by itself in my opinion. A coat of poly then primer and sand. Twice. How Chuck gets the results with basswood  that he does is beyond me. It looks a lot smoother to the naked eye but some grain still shows. I figured the cook just finished a real greasy meal. That’s my excuse anyway. 
 

Painted with Tamiya flat black. Now on to the fiddle rotisserie part but I have some more treenails to do 1st!

[Bossman]

As the temps in the southeast US are way too high for me, I’ve been able to spend a lot of ship time. Not a bad thing. I finished the stove. A note here for others building this ship. The directions say to put the rotisserie arms to the “inside” of the stove. They are clearly on the outside on the plans. I don’t think anyone would notice but there it is. Also, since there were more than 1 photo etch drive for the rotisserie, I used two of them to give it a little more volume or depth. 
 

Between treenailing sessions I worked on cannons and other deck furniture to keep my sanity. There may be a better way but the first photo is my jig for the carriage. It works well for me. It has two slots in the bottom for the axles. 
 

Finally, I have finished the treenails! I’m not a drinking man but I may have a JB and Coke! The picture was taken just after adding the WOP so they will not be as dark once dry. 

 

 

[Bossman]

Now to the fun part. At least for me. All the deck furniture and fittings. The first bulkhead is in. Fitting the cannons with the breech rope is being a real pain for some reason. These were rigged and glued, then the breech rope ring bolt was glued into the bulwarks. Trying to hold it and hit the hole is tough with a slight hand tremor. I’ll let you know when I find an easier solution. 
 

[Bossman]

Thank you all for the likes. They keep me going. 

After much thinking, offerings to the gods and a few choice adult words I decided to rig the running tackle on the guns. I finally found my old jigs for such stuff. The first one is just a long clamp attacked to a board with a dowel. As you can see, the clamp holds your block and a clothes pin holds the free end.  The second one shows the completed outhaul tackle.  It is much easier with these tiny blocks to put a very small drop of CA in the grove for the thread. I don’t loose as many blocks that way. 

Once you have it complete, nothing to do but use small tools and the right language to hook the tiny things up. One down and 27 to go. The brass speaking tube is not attached yet as it needs to be blackened  

[Tigerdvr]

Greetings Bossman, I must add my accolades to all the previous positive comments on your Confederacy. As one who has been exposed to the challenges presented by this kit, I feel I have a special appreciation for what you have accomplished. Your work and attention to detail is just outstanding IMHO. I think your project is what Chuck had in mind when he designed this kit.

If you ever consider rigging her, I have the rigging plans which you would be welcome to use.

Thanks for sharing a well done build log. It makes great reference for others.

 

Cheers, Harley

[Bossman]

Harley, that is very high praise Sir. Thank you very much. I hope I can do the rest of her proud. I did consider a fully rigged ship but as it would add a year or two to the build I’m just not sure at this point. Thank you again for the compliment and generous offer. If I decide to rig her, I will take you up on the offer. 
 

Thank you all for the likes. Recognition from peers is always appreciated. 

[Bossman]

Thank you all for the likes folks. Another update from the shipyard. I know an assembly line method will give you more bang for your time but I can’t work that way. I can make only so many cannons before I have to go on to something else for a while. I have been working from stern to stem the past few weeks. Guns, running tackle, deck beams, carlings and capstan. 

The capstan is a fiddly sucker. The best way I found to do the pie shaped parts was to cut the angle and use for a template. Minor adjustment is needed unless you are perfect with the upright parts.  Excuse my laymen’s terms. 
 

As with all of my modelling, I am never totally totally  happy with the outcome. But, for us mortals in the group and as Jeremiah Johnson says, “it will do.”

 

m

 

My method for the coils of rope for the running tackle is to glue a piece of painters tape to a flat surface, sticky side up, and coil away with thumb and finger. Once I have a bunch made, brush with a little diluted white glue and let dry. Pick up with an exacto and glue over the end of the glued piece on the deck.  The deck beams and carlings are straight forward. Now it’s time to make more cannons!

 

 

 

[Bossman]

Thank you all for the comments and likes. They are most appreciated.  I’ve done a bit of work but it’s slow going. Build and install two opposing cannons, rig the cannons, fit 2 quarterdeck beams, fit and install hanging and lodging knees. Then repeat the process! It’s all pretty straight forward. 
 

 

[Dwight]

Going way off base here but.....back in post 32 ( your horsrs ). I grew up round Quarterhorses but age has done a number on the old memory. What do you call the color on the red/brown one ?

 

Now for serious business...your little boat is spectatular. First time John and my pocketbook agree  I'm buying it. I hope to build it with masts and rigging. Have you considered that ?

 

Dwight

 

 

 

[Bossman]

Dwight, she is a Sorrel. Don’t feel bad. I suffer from the same memory problem. The other is a blue roan paint. As for the ship, I will most likely leave her as is. Too many ships, not enough time. 
 

Thanks for all the likes folks!  Much appreciated. 

[Bossman]

Thanks to all for the likes ladies and gents!

 

A small update from the shipyard. I have finished the quarterdeck beams and all associated deck furniture under them. On to finishing the knees. The pumps were a fun little project in themselves. Once finished it’s back to making cannons. Did I say that I am very tired of making cannons? I did not trouble with sanding the char on the underside of the beams. Just a light go over to smooth. They are invisible anyway. 

 

Note on Basswood. If you plan ahead with staining and Poly, or don’t get into a hurry like I do, you can get a good finish with this wood. Once I slowed down and gave the parts 2 or 3 coats, depending on outcome, sanding with 400 grit between coats, I get a lot better finish. 

 

 

[Bossman]

Good news for my “Confederacy “.  She will have a permanent home at the University of Southern Mississippi new Center for Veterans Affairs building in the US Navy display case. For me, this is a real honour and I am glad she will have a home. I should be 6 more months finishing her and ground breaking on the new building is next month so I can take my time. 

[Robert29]

Great work Bossman, very neat and detailed. That attention for detail and neat work together with your craftsmanship brings out a an awesome model of the Confederacy.  

 

Robert

[Bossman]

Thank you very much Robert! Your kind words mean a lot. Looking at your Victory build is a real eye opener. Beautiful work Sir! Thanks to all for the likes and encouragement. 
 

Before I get to my update, a short dissertation on modelling according to me. I have 3 unfinished ships in the shop from 15 years ago. The reason I quit was I could not match the skill and craftsmanship I saw others doing. I promised myself I would finish this ship and have fun. Mistakes be darned. Wether I lack the skill, get impatient or get in too big a hurry, it is what it is. Build your ship, have fun, if it pleases you, that’s all that counts. 
 

I’m almost ready to get to the combings and other quarterdeck fittings before I continue on with the cannons. A few coats of poly and some paint and I will be ready. It does not show well in the pics but before putting on the cap rail, I finished the inboard edge and used a black sharpie to “paint” it. Figured it would make life easier that way.  If you deviate from Chucks instruction booklet like I do, read ahead and. Wait! I thought I was supposed to plan ahead anyway. I should have put in the waist cap rail before putting the carved pieces on the fancy moulding. The fix is not perfect but as I said above. Move on and have fun. Tomorrow will be painting and touch up. 
 

All the best folks, stay safe, till next time

Mark

 

 

[Bossman]

Thank you all for the likes and encouragement folks!

The shipyard is in full Swing this week. This is the quarterdeck planking scheme I have chosen for my Confederacy. Though different from the plans, Chucks directions say it is my choice so technically I am following  them. Waterways and margin planks on both sides and one plank width past the combings. At present I do not plan on mounting the 6 pounders but may change my mind. If I do there will be planking only under the guns and they will only be mounted on one side, not both. 
 

I laid 1 plank, full length on each side of the combings to insure a straight run. I did not do this on the gundeck and it caused problems. I then laid the planks between the combings from the outside in and tweeked the length of the middle plank to fit. Maybe if I was a better modeller, this would be unnecessary, but as my skills stand now, it works. 
Mark

 

 

 

[Bossman]

Update on the shipyard activities. I have completed the main and mizzenmast rails. What turned out to be what should have been a routine operation on the main rails went south quick. I had a great plan. Attached the two outside uprights first. Attached the two middle uprights On the deck planking next. I Then pinned a false piece across the top of these So that I could attach the 2 inside uprights at the exact height. Perfect! Boy am I smart. Then when I went to attach the lower cross railing with the belaying pins, something was amiss. It seems I had attached one of the uprights on the wrong side of my reference mark. In trying to remove it, I knocked off on of the others.  After an adult conversation with myself, I finally got her completed. 
 

T
 

Time to close up the front with the roundhouses and doors. I cut a scrap piece as a jig to insure they were square and true. Planked as usual. They need some hefty bevels on the curves. The plans call for using a piece of wire around the vent hole. My solution was to use my leather hole punch on black construction paper and glue to the finished house. I then drilled out the center with an appropriate size drill. I’m happy with the outcome.  Once the poly dries I will clean up the hole a bit. Thank you all for the likes!
 

 

 

[Bossman]

The wheels that come with this kit are under scale and look like 5 miles of bad road. So I ordered 2 wheel “kits” from Syren. They are fantastic. I will not go through the construction as the instructions are on Chuck‘S site. The first photo shows what is in the pack with a few parts in the jig. The second photo shows my 1st build. The second one will look much better. 
 

The boxwood is great quality. The jig provided makes construction straight forward. I will not say easy as with this many small parts, it can be a bit troublesome. Did I mention the small parts? I shaped the spokes by hand with the tools in the photo. There also is a generous amount of spares in case you loose or break one. As a mater of fact, since I have two kits, there just may be enough spares for a third! If I don’t lose or break any.  Again, now that I have assembled one, the next should be much better. If you want to replace the wheel on your kit I would highly recommend getting one from Syren. For the record, I would not know Chuck if he stopped me on the street. 

 

[Bossman]

Just a short update folks. I finally finished the two wheels for the Confederacy.  The other binnacle is being painted. I can’t say enough good about the wheel kits from Syren. They are top notch and are so much better than the anything I have seen supplied with kits. I am now 9 months into this puppy.  Maybe 6 more months and I’ll have her finished. 
 

Thank you all for the likes Folks!

 

[Bossman]

Moving along with the f’castle, I have temporarily fitted the bow sprint. It still need tapering for and aft and the fittings but that will be for permanent installation. At least it is straight and at the right angle! Thank you all for the likes gents!

 

[Bossman]

Thank you all for the likes Gents. It means a lot! I’ve made a little more progress on the f’castle. 7 more knight heads and a few other details and it will be time to start on the headrails. My knees are shaking a bit thinking about that. My apologies if I do not go through a blow by blow of the build. I do not use any unique method an nothing I have not seen on dozens of build logs. That being said, if anyone has a question on how I tackled any phase, I will be happy to answer. 
 

[Brucealanevans]

Quick question:

I was curiously trying to fit the drop decoration metal piece underneath the quarter gallery. The instructions say it is notched for the wale, but it isn't, and for it to fit a truly prodigious amount of filing would be necessary to create a notch to allow it to lie against the sides so that the upper surface of the casting fits against the "floor" of the quarter gallery.

Is it supposed to be notched as the instructions imply/say? Do I need to request replacements if they are (now) notched?

I shudder to think of the work and metal dust that will be required/created to remove the amount of metal that would be necessary to create a fit.

What was your experience?