Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

22 hours ago, garyshipwright said:

Hi Stuglo. You are doing a really great job but I would leave a little meat on the parts for finishing.  Cutting to the line and leaving your self nothing to  finish fairing the cant frames will give you a real head ack which I had to get the misses to buy me a couple of bottles of aspirin that helped when I was building Montague frames. You probably already know this but I like to sneak up on the line which help me, and to this day still sneak up on the line. Keeps me out of trouble.  Seems I had to redo my cant's two or three times before I was happy with them and each time i got closer to what I was trying for. Here is a photo or two of the cant frames on my Montague. Keep up the good work and will be watching your build. Hope this is of some help to you. Gary

This is good advice illustrated by superb work, as good as the 3D computer illustration. I have of course left meat on the wrong bits,and not on others. I plan to finish each stage then, when see the fuller picture, decide where to remake .  Please continue to commit-this is how we learn.

[stuglo]

15th and 16th Oct. 

(originally tried to post on friday, but after writing it all out, deleted instead of submit - "you pressed the wrong button,bacon brain"-Miss Piggy)

Anyway, with timberheads removed, reduced the height of stem/bowsprit grove to its high point of 14.5mm (using the sliding sander)

Reposition timberheads with reference to aft aspect of rabbet and lower foot . Luckily (rabbet's foot-ha!ha!) reworking to follow curve is easy. The bowsprit aperture remains the same. Although the bridging chock remained in place, each side needs to be aligned separately. New pin guides are needed. 

Result is my timberline is 2mm higher than the plan- ? good enough.

Refit 1st cant -had to reread TFFM as forgotten already although it was only a few days ago.

I had to  add a slim shim  to "sole" of timberhead . This wood has quite a marked grain pattern so as long as additions are in parallel, they blend very well. In any case, most will be hidden. Probably just me and my conscience know and care.

As others have remarked, surprisingly small changes/variations can have significant effects. On the other hand, wood can be very forgiving and adaptable - don't be frightened dismantling and making corrections.

At last, returning to #2 hawse piece:

The lower part of the opening is at 11.8mm -just 1mm below the markings on my cut out plan. Go with TFFM and use the master plan reference.  

As advised, place the upper locator pin below the are which will become the air space (about 4.24mm above hawse hole).

Good and detailed advice about how to file the groove. No so simple as I have a tendency to "rock" and the groove dips ao one or both ends).

Extend lines on copy fore area, place piece lining up the rabbet and clamp both to table. Given the thickness of the piece and wanting to form groove of depth 3.18mm, blocks of thickness 5.25 were taped on either side.

This groove is 2/3 of total (its neighbour #3 is 1/3). My file is 3.17 diam.-the depth of the groove. So when to top is flush with the piece, I've done the job.

The clamping to the table and the direction (slope) outlined on the plan, make this much easier.

My next problem is how to widen the the diameter  of the groove to  3.98mm but I do not have a 4mm file. I'll proceed and think of a solution later (or some kind reader can tell me).

The piece has upper and lower air spaces on inner and outer faces- the lower at same height as its partner on the timberhead (and extending to end of piece) the upper starting 18mm above it. 

The required 0.4mm is removed by milling -ensuring the parts are supported by a 0.4 shim when milling the second side.

[stuglo]

Wasn't 100% happy with situation and was undecided whether to start again and remake the last few pieces. This morning things looked a little better and decided to go ahead , finish the #2 hawse pieces and fit them.

When aligning the levels of groove and air spaces, not only check against parts already fitted, but against each other (they should mirror exactly).

Assuming the guide pins already prepared (if not temporarily rubber glue in place so as to drill for guiding pins , as otherwise it moves so easily). Also remember to place the spacers (in this case, 0.8 below and 0.4 above) then glue the thickness not milled plus the foot. Locate the pins (not so easy as is usually) and clamp CAREFULLY so as to avoid slippage.

I think it obvious, but do one side at a time and only after glue dry, replace pins with trunnels, and then go to other side.

Hawse #3A

Apparent problem- book says blank of 14.5in  (7.69mm) but detail on plan says 14in.

There is a diagram of the overall width at this stage in the book  95in. deduct the #3 and left with 29in-for pair. Thus 14.5un is correct. I then notice  piece #4 is 13.5in in book but 14in on plan- so in the end will have same result. Nevertheless, I'll go with the book (15,14.5,14,sounds better than 15,14,14,)

Note, the bevel is still 34.5.

**PS**

Don't eat chocolate cake with fingers when handling wood 

 

[druxey]

No more chocolate cake for you! One needs surgically clean hands for model-making, as even natural oil on the fingers can eventually mark and show on wood or metal.

[stuglo]

53 minutes ago, druxey said:

No more chocolate cake for you! One needs surgically clean hands for model-making, as even natural oil on the fingers can eventually mark and show on wood or metal.

No good deed goes  unpunished. I was helping my wife to diet by removing temptation.

[mtaylor]

7 hours ago, stuglo said:

No good deed goes  unpunished. I was helping my wife to diet by removing temptation.

I hope she appreciates the sacrifice on doing your part.

[druxey]

How absolutely selfless! Give that man a medal. Oh, wait; it's a chocolate coin.

[dvm27]

When in doubt it's best to follow the text. Paper can shrink or swell depending on the humidity and that can certainly cause an inch (scale) discrepancy. 

[stuglo]

Checked accumulated max. width of 2xhawses #1and#2, 34.76mm instead of 34.98 -I can live with that.

Hawse piece #3

As same bevel as before, at the foot, and outer surface from fore edge. Align this edge with the aft edge of#2, spot rubber glue T foot and where grooves will be.Remember the 0.4 spacers. While stable, holes for guide pins again avoiding air spaces. Mark aft edge of #2 on inner surface#3. I will bevel this later so the piece will be more stable.Mark grooves fore and aft. corresponding to their neighbour on #2.    . This time they match the pattern. Similarly mark levels of air spaces.

The groove is only 1/3 of depth as its neighbour-1mm

Again clamp on plan with extended lines of hawse holes, to table. The same 3mm file- and I get to use my new depth gauge.

A similar groove is made on other side  and parallel.

Recheck airspace marks, and mill to within a couple of mm, taking off a depth 0.4 . Remember to use this depth shim to support piece.

Extend the airspaces to marks and finish with 45deg incision as before.

Glue to neighbouring #2 either side of groove, and at foot to cant. Ensure spacing with 0.8 spacers.

About to glue second pieced and-WAIT. Something's not OK

The piece has lost weight- its too THIN.

Check- only 4.68mm not 7.69mm (!@#$%^&*-expletive)

?How . Must have picked up the wrong blank when resumed work . Perhaps more used to the size of cants than hawses.

? Senior moment. My wife says I did stupid things even when a youngster-I can't remember.

Anyway- good lesson- if it appears to be going well-see where you are going wrong!!!!

Start again tomorrow.

[stuglo]

 

[Richard Feliciano]

Stuglio,

You have the same issue on your model as is occurring on my construction. The stepping line on the deadwood does not match up with the frame layout pasted on the building board. The steps are a little wider than 2 each 9" frames. As the frames are erected, a little creep occurs. By the time #12 frame is erected the base of the frame is about 2mm off frame building board location. (You can see this clearly. In your 1st photo). I ignored this issue while erecting my frames. While the base of the frames off, the tops are held true to building board location with my square.

[stuglo]

3 hours ago, Richard Feliciano said:

Stuglio,

You have the same issue on your model as is occurring on my construction. The stepping line on the deadwood does not match up with the frame layout pasted on the building board. The steps are a little wider than 2 each 9" frames. As the frames are erected, a little creep occurs. By the time #12 frame is erected the base of the frame is about 2mm off frame building board location. (You can see this clearly. In your 1st photo). I ignored this issue while erecting my frames. While the base of the frames off, the tops are held true to building board location with my square.

Thank you. As you will see when I post next blog, I have remade #1 cants and hawses. I worked off the breadth and body plans with vertical jig and several set squares, and yes, the step is out despite using a cut out of the sheer plans. Be very happy to share problems and solutions.

As advised, precision all important,but so much is interdependent that its difficult to know the fundamental point of reference. 

(PS the etched parts are great)

[stuglo]

Continuing to work on hawse  #4 last week, the port side seemed fair but left a peculiar space for the filler. The starboard wouldn’t fit at all. Rechecked the 1st cant against the breadth plan and found that somehow the angle and therefore the distance between timberheads had narrowed considerably. I think this may have been due to the use of spring clamps that exerted too much pressure.I unglued and separated all the hawse pieces and cants.

(A BLUNT blade is better for this.)

Having separated the cant several times they look a bit worse for ware- so remade them.

The hawse pieces needed cleaning up and fortunately able to separate and reuse both bollard timbers and their bridging chock.

Used my jig to hang the relevant part of the body and align the timberline of the cants while using set squares to check against the breadth plan. 

As Richard Feliciano mentions, the relation to the step is secondary.

Remade starboard hawse#2 as old was damaged when removed.

Wore out 3 small files (and hurting shoulders) making grooves so thought there must be a way to machine these.

** Angle marked as before, held vertically in vice with so direction becomes 90deg, using 3mm milling bit much like a drill press, but incrementally moved until depth required. Quicker and cleaner groove.

Hawse#3 both OK

At last back to hawse #4 (taken me 4 days to get here).

Blanks of 7.16mm

Even with the tramlines as advised (to ensure vertical angle of short bevel) not easy.The starboard worked first time, but the port was more difficult as use same side as disk sander but at opposite angle. Took 3 attempts. After that it's the same principle bevels, but leaving the weird shape. Who cares-it fits!!

Tomorrow the filler pieces.

[druxey]

If at first we don't succeed....Good for you to stick (and unstick!) to it, Stuglo.

[stuglo]

The filling pieces. 

Some specific measurements are given to make an oversize plug to fill the gap between the #4 hawse piece and the 1st  cant. It should be dagger shaped with a cross section triangular shape.  Couldn’t really see from the diagram how to do this, so took a spoiled hawse piece and shaped one side (length) to the 34.5 bevel so as to match the cant. The importance is to match the “back”. Then trial and error with the hand-held band sander, shaped until fit. The much larger than necessary piece of wood allowed for lots of trial and error. Anyway, it seems to work for me. When fitted and dried, the fore shaping can be fought out. The whole structure isn’t particularly rigid, so have left finishing inside and out until later in the build. The 1st cant remains in its appropriate position.

1. Note small ties-bought packet for $1.50-they are very useful.

2. Trying out puting model on moveable table for easier access/rotation, and leaving my work space as free as possible.

3. Repurpose stationery holder to help tools stay upright (euphemism)

[druxey]

Looks like you are on track now, Stuart. The relative positions of the hawes holes look much better than before.

[dvm27]

Much better Stuart! Agree with Druxey about those pesky hawse holes. And that Viagra tool organizer you have should keep them erect.

[tlevine]

I agree with Druxey and Greg...much better.  If it is any consolation, this is one of the most difficult parts of the build.  Oh wait, there are the head timbers, the stern framing, the carvings...  Seriously, it will get easier as your skills improve.  

[stuglo]

Fore Cant Frame #2

Need to review how to make cants -back to instructions for aft cant in TFFM.

All cants are 4.77mm wide. Remember that the other “direction” will be the inner and outer hull surface, so extra will be removed later with hull sanding.

Decided to try again with the chocks- in any case shorter blanks are far less wasteful.

With#2 the bevel of the chuck is minimal. So I cheated. Made it as one piece, chiseled the chock out, and reassembled it. Looks o.k.

Triple check bevel angles, each is different. #2 is 32.5degs

TFFM also mentions additional small bevel at foot because the angled foot is wider than - I tried this before gluing, but insufficient, so remove some from base #1 can with a chisel It's easier after gluing so with do this with the rest of ribs as required.

Trunnels(staggered pattern as suggested). Hold in piece vice for position and “verticality”and use drill press.

Trunnels oversize at 0.7mm, but I want to see them. (also difficult for me to make smaller)

Fit, check “foot” doesn’t overstep step.If necessary pare back by beveling neighbouring #1cant foot (very slightly).

Glue,hold in place until holds up by itself, and adjust the angle so vertical (square) and alignment with the timberline as on the breadth plan ( previously made height card and holder).

Keep rechecking position maintained while glue dries( present weather, 5-7 mins)

Repeat for port twin.

They look symmetrical, so probably OK.  

[stuglo]

# 3 fore cant

Relatively simple with 30drg. Bevel, shade area to be removed-phone call- come back and remove the wrong bit!@#$%^

Relatively simple chock (joke)

While busy fitting the fore cant (various squares-made both a shorter and taller ones-the latter weighted with a epoxyed battery), the aft cant snagged my elbow (damn attention seeker)

Glued it back and because not first time, protected it with the building slip vertical board.

#4 fore cant- again change of bevel angle. (27)

As previously noted, some beveling of the foot, so it can fit on step.

#5 ditto except angle now 22.5deg

#6 ditto, angle now 19 deg

Suggested by TFFM to make temporary wedges, but want something even more temporary, while check, recheck and recheck all alignments and relation. So after horizontal bracing (glued) used folded card to separate at timberline level and NOTtight rubber band.

[druxey]

The curse of having one's train of thought interrupted! So annoying. 

 

Looking at the chips coming off your edge tool in the second to last photo, I have two recommendations. Use a piece of hardwood as a cutting block. Using the cutting mat for this will lead to chipping out on the far side of the cut. Second, is the tool sharp and honed sufficiently? If you have difficulty maintaining a really sharp edge, Look at Lee Valley/Veritas' honing guide (with the narrow-blade head):

 

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/guides/101899-veritas-mk-ii-standard-honing-guide?item=05M0901

 

Together with a good set of stones, you will have surgically sharp tools. (BTW, it won't hold a short-bladed tool such as you show in your photo; a narrow chisel will be perfect for the job. I've no connection with Lee Valley other than as a long-time and satisfied customer.

[dvm27]

Welcome to the "I have knocked off an aft cant with my elbow" club. Your are not the first member of this club!

 

Follow Druxey's advice - a sharp chisel makes all the difference.

[stuglo]

On 11/6/2020 at 4:52 PM, dvm27 said:

Welcome to the "I have knocked off an aft cant with my elbow" club. Your are not the first member of this club!

 

Follow Druxey's advice - a sharp chisel makes all the difference.

I did indeed forget about not using the cutting board

The "chisel" are in fact disposable chisel-shaped scalpel type blades. Wickedly sharp but blunt quickly. 

My problem is my learning curve is in equilibrium with my forgetfulness

 

[stuglo]

Almost a week without a blog but very eventful.(as you can see by end of saga)

Reread opening chapters of B.Frohlich’s “Art of ship modelling” with a bit more understanding.

He mentions the change of weather opening gap of 5mm over 100cm model because of change in weather.

Well, we had the first rain after 6 months.Its a humid area anyway (coastal) but this cannot explain the accumulated error after fitting the first 6 cants. I hadn’t forgotten the foot bevel. I think the main culprit was an overly tight hawse filling piece.I also think I should have made a couple of the cants better.

Unstuck cant and filler pieces ans while waiting to dry,gave thought to alternative ways of aligning and holding the cant pieces while glue dries.

 I’ve used building jigs but here, the alignment is by the timberline which is sloping.So I took heights from plans for the sides, cut both floor and “roof” together so as to set on board plans, and will be able to turn over and use for other side. Held in place by weight,removable for visualization and access.

Shaved down filler piece, remade some cants and cleaned up others and started to place them. Seems better and jig works

A friend sourced a supply of PEAR trees that a fruit farmer was selling as kindling!!

So with a patient and long-suffering wife for company, drove to the north of the country -couple of hours each way.

The trees had been cut to logs and branches last year, to lengths suitable for wood stoves i.e. about 40cms. The thicker logs were mainly split from drying out.

Selected half a boot load (it was free) and drove home.(Had said to wife maybe see some local sites or have a meal out, but still semi lockdown precluded this).

Drove home and while my wife was making supper, thought I’d see if and how much of the wood was usable.

Prepared a couple of pieces with my 10in table saw and with last pass, lost concentration for a second and felt a bag to my thumb. HIT by the saw teeth. A bloody mess, that I couldn’t treat by myself with superglue. Off to local casualty(emergency room) some stitches where possible and bandaging.Declined overnight stay.

Will be ok but feeling terribly stupid. Every instruction, Utube etc emphasises safety. I did for most part use sticks, But familiarity and tiredness caused that stupid lapse.

I said, in my first blog, that you could learn from my mistakes- this accident is the most important of lessons.

PLEASE BE SAFE

[captain_hook]

Hope you will be fine soon. After 10 years of using I still fear my bandsaw..

[bruce d]

3 hours ago, stuglo said:

... familiarity and tiredness caused that stupid lapse.

My best guess: that is the story of 99% of the workshop accidents I know about. It is behind 100% of my own accidents.

Really glad you  came through this with all your fingers, Time to rest, binge on YouTube and reflect.

Stay safe and heal, we want to see this project.

 

Regards,

Bruce

[Matt D]

I’m sorry about your accident, Stuglo.  I hope you heal fast.  Be sure to keep it clean.  My 10” table saw is the tool I respect the most, so this gives me chills.

[stuglo]

Thanks everyone

[druxey]

Hope you heal without complications. Sorry to read of your 'lapse'. Never use power tools when tired or distracted.

[RichardG]

A "like" on the pear and a big "sorry to hear that" on the accident. Unfortunately you can never domesticate power tools. 

 

I hope it heals quickly and well.

 

All the best