HMS Triton Cross Section by Rusty - FINISHED - 1:48

[Rustyj]

Hi Ben, I use two x-acto knives. One with the tip broken off to get into the

corners, one sharp and one very small chisel.

 

Thanks Joe, Bob and Ron.

 

Mark, No sins? Obviously you haven’t spoken with the Admiral!

 

 

Thanks Sinan. Just wait you’ll see what I mean when you get there!

 

Well 32 down, 22 to go. That means there are 44 mortices to cut. It's getting

sad that I'm counting how many are left!   

 

Last night I was finishing the last one, had a good tight fit, and pushed it out

and away it went high in the air, bounced on the end of the desk and landed

right in the trash bin.  

 

Of course it was almost full with bits and pieces and lots of saw dust. I sat there

for a good five minutes trying to decide if I wanted to go dumpster diving or not.

I finally decided discretion is the best course and made a new one.

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

Very nicely done... no gaps, clean, precise, sharp.  Hmmm... out of words.  Great job, Rusty!!

[Trussben]

Beautiful Rusty, you are a real master at this.

Thanks for the tool description - pics of the tools and how you do it would help me greatly if you can?

 

Ben

[Pete38]

Great work Rusty, as said before clean , crisp joiints.

 

I hope mine look half as good when I get to that point

[Paddy]

 Splendid Rusty! That joint work adds so much beauty to the structure.

Edited April 26, 2013 by Paddy

[gjdale]

Very nice joints there Rusty - clearly practice does make perfect!

[Rustyj]

Thanks Pete, Paddy and Grant.

 

 

pics of the tools and how you do it would help me greatly if you can?

 

 

Hi Ben, OK here is how I do it and is by no means a tutorial on how to do it.

Just a way that works for me.

 

Here are the tools. The top is a U.J. Ramelson chisel. Next is the x-acto blade

with the tip broken off (usually I get this from the sharp blade as I break the tip

while using it  ) and the bottom is a regular x-acto blade.

 

 

First I score the beam at the correct location

 

 

and then widen it to the proper width using the pointed x-acto.

 

 

Next I cut down each side

 

 

And then horizontally with the broken tipped x-acto down to the desired depth.

 

 

Then I use the chisel to clean it up.

 

 

And here is one roughly done. I fine tune them as I cut and fit each piece to them.

 

 

I hope this helps.

 

 

[Pete38]

Very nice...great way to do it

 

Thanks for showing it.....

 

It is the person behind the tools that makes it look so good and easy    

[rummy]

Nice tip Rusty.I was wondering the best way to do thoses.  Thanks Larry

[gjdale]

Thanks for the pics and explanation Rusty - that makes it really clear.

[harvey1847]

Thank you very much for the pictures Rusty! Can you tell us the size of the ledges and the carlings? I am studing right now the plans of the decks and I can´t see these pieces around... at least in the plans I have for the complete model. I am using the book of the AOS series about the HMS Diana to figure out how to do the decks.

 

Thanks again. Good work.

 

 

Daniel.

 

p.s. now I can see a little gap on pic number...

[Long9Ron]

Rusty

 

Thanks for the tutorial. I'm at the stage now of installing the carlings and ledges and this information is just what I needed as I have already glued the pillars and beams in place for the lower deck. I was just sitting back and doing a lot of thinking on how to cut them and then I saw your post and went   Wow, just what I needed. Your work is wonderful and a delight to follow. Please keep posting little tutorials like this please. Thanks

[Trussben]

Thanks for that info and great pics Rusty, seems like a few other people were wondering the same.

 

Ben

[Rustyj]

Hi all and thank you for your kind words.

 

Hi Daniel I used the following sizes. Ledges 1/8” x 1/8” and carlings 3/16” x 3/16”.

Not sure if they are 100% accurate but they worked for me.

 

The way I used for cutting the mortises is what worked for me. Experiment and

see what works best for you. We all add our unique touch to how we do things.

 

Well here it is with all of the carlings and ledges in place. Now to sand it all smooth

then next up will be adding the waterways and decking.

 

 

 

 

[Pete38]

Rusty  that looks very nice, great job

[rafine]

Absolutely fantastic looking work, Rusty. The joinery looks perfect.

 

Bob

[Boccherini]

Rusty,

good, clear tutorial on the mortices. You plan on planking half the gundeck as well?

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

Rusty, another special thanks for showing us how you did your mortise and tendon work for it has me now looking forward to attempting the process using your approach when I arrive at that point. No longer dreading it.

 

Thanks again.   

[Rustyj]

Hi all. Thanks for the kind words. I hope it works for you as well as it did for me.

 

Here I’ve added the waterway and have started on the hatches. Both are being cut from red heart.

 

 

Here the sides are cut to length with the bevel cut into them.

 

 

 

Here they are notched for assembly.

 

 

And here it is assembled.

 

 

Are here they are set in place but not yet glued down.

 

 

Next I'm going to make my first attempt at making my own hatch gratings.  

 

[russ]

Nice work on the hatch coamings and waterways. The coamings have some very good joinery.

 

Russ

[Boccherini]

Rusty,

great work on the hatch coamings. Is the wood really as red as it seems, or were the pictures edited a little to bring the colour out? Looking forward to seeing your hatch grating. 

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Matrim]

Looking magnificent..

 

Joss

[Paddy]

Grand work on the hatch coamings. I really like the look of the Redheart you used and just checked a dealer I frequent and they have some in stock. I feel another purchase for the dockyard coming on.

 

More beautiful joinery!

[gjdale]

That's some seriously nice joinery there Rusty!

[Pete38]

Very nice, really like the look of the redheart. great joints

[harvey1847]

Beautyful color Rusty! Is it that blood wood ? What a nice contrast between the beams and those hatches...

 

Daniel.

[Rustyj]

Thanks Russ, Joss, Grant and Pete.

 

Grant. You can see the difference between the earlier picture and the close up

of the completed one. The completed one is the color with a coat of wipe on poly

applied. No touch up. It’s that red.

 

Paddy. One thing they say is the Red Heart can fade some over time especially if

exposed to sunlight. This is some I have had on hand for a couple of years and it

hasn’t faded. Also I plan on keeping it out of direct sunlight once completed.

 

Daniel. Nope not Blood wood but Red Heart. Blood wood is a deeper darker red. I

have used it in the past but I didn’t have enough for this so I couldn’t use it now.

 

Again thank you all!

[Snowmans]

Looking good Rusty, That red heart is a beautiful looking timber. As others have said the joints are an excellent fit.

[rafine]

Seeing your beautiful work with the red heart is making me rethink my wood choices for work down the road.

 

Bob

[WackoWolf]

Excellent work as always Rusty. I always looking at your beautiful work. I have been following your work for a few years now since we first meet and I enjoy every minute of it. Keep the pictures coming, I for one am always watching.