28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

[BANYAN]

Druxey, I have experienced the same issue with the disk sander and also received a replacement switch from Jim and installed it.

 

However, I am seriously contemplating changing the switch of all my tools to a new arrangement that I have set up for my lathe and 10" table saw.  That is, bypassing the toggle switch and connecting to power via an 'emergency stop on/off switch that I place near the saw but is easier to access and easier to stop the saw in an emergency.  This of course means I will be restricted to moving the saw on the bench within the length of the power cord/cable I build in - but this is not an issue for me.  

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited May 11, 2021 by BANYAN

[bruce d]

8 hours ago, BANYAN said:

I am seriously contemplating changing the switch of all my tools

I am doing just that, one at a time. Known here (and elsewhere?) as NVR switches, for 'No Volt Return' I believe, and most look something like this:

Back to the boat: it is worth waiting for. So glad to hear you intend to leave it bright.

 

 

[druxey]

Well, the switch arrived today. I spent some time not only installing it, but thoroughly cleaning out the fine dust adhering to the inner works of the saw. One hurdle was the electrical connectors to the switch. I've not come across the particular crimped type used here in Canada, so had to do a small workaround. All is well; the saw fired up again! The next posting will be a real progress one again.

[AON]

Apparently (per a video I watch a short while ago) cleaning out the sawdust from all the nooks and crannies in and under table saws should be a regular occurance to avoid an electrical fire.

 

[wefalck]

Talking about switches, I saw a guy on YouTube, who controls his machines from the smartphone or devices/services, such as Alexa/Siri (Homepod). Not sure what happens, if the WiFi cuts out. I am using momentary foot-switches on all my machines.

[Mark Pearse]

Hi Druxey

 

Just found this build. Such a lovely hull, I shall be following with interest.

[druxey]

Well, finally new progress to report! It took three tries before I was satisfied with the risers. I rubber cemented two layers of 1" thick (scale!) stock, cut and sanded the convex curve, ran the beading on both sides of the assembly and then milled the concave side so that the pieces were of uniform width. They are now being glued in.

 

[Roger Pellett]

My Sherline lathe recently died.  Before spending $$, I decided to replace the switch as I found one in my electrical parts drawer that looked like had the right amp rating.

 

The electronic speed control was wired to the switch with wire nut connectors.  After struggling to get a good connection, something that should have been an easy job, I dug out my Soldering iron.  Soldered joints covered with heat shrink  tubing made a much more secure and neater job of things.  Why Sherline used wire nuts on what is supposed to be a high quality tool Is beyond me.

 

The new switch corrected the problem.

 

Roger

[druxey]

The next step after adding the risers is to prepare for the inwales. For this, the tops of all the futtocks have to be cut down by 2". To do this without splitting the plank is tricky. A very sharp small chisel is used and the waste wood removed incrementally. It's a slow process!

 

[druxey]

Having successfully trimmed back the futtock tops, the blanks for the inwales were cut. These posed several challenges. They are 2½" thick and wide, but their cross-section is a parallelogram, the angles changing constantly along the boat's side. I cut each out wider than the final width, bevelled the outer edge first, then fitted it to the boat. 

 

The next challenge was to locate stub toptimbers that support the tholes and wash strake. These pass through the inwale and have to be spaced correctly to 'miss' the futtocks. They are now marked and ready for cutting. Once the slots are cut, the inwale will be glued in and the inner edge shaped correctly.

 

[wefalck]

Real boatbuilding in miniature  👍

 

BTW, that chisel in the previous picture looks very precision-ground, is is carbide ?

[AON]

Have you a photo of the area from the real boat you can share?

 

It will help me appreciate what you're assembling as opposed to what I think I remember from 50 years ago.

Alan

[wefalck]

I posted all the photos I had in the thread by 'bruce d' that prompted this project: 

 

 

 

[AON]

Thank you for the link to the photos and lines.  This is not like the cutter I was familiar with in the very early 70's which explains my confusion... I thought it was my mind slipping again.  🤪

Alan

[druxey]

Yes, Alan, this cutter is from the 1860's, not the 1960's! You aren't that old.

 

Thanks for reposting the link, Eberhard. The chisel in the photo is one of a beautiful set from Russia made by Mihail Kirsanov. They are fine tool steel. He is mentioned elsewhere on MSW:

 

 

 

[AON]

The ones I knew had not changed much in those hundred years...only when they started using fiberglass hulls a few years after my time.  I hadn't appreciate the American cutter was considerably different.

Always have time to learn something different.

Edited May 15, 2021 by AON

[wefalck]

Yes, David, these Kirsanov chisels are really beautiful - but rather expensive. I am tempted, but probably won't actually need them. In fact, I had already purchased some HSS-rods of 2 mm diameter to grind them into really small chisels to be set into some 6 mm walnut-dowel I have and some nice turned brass ferrules.

 

AON, there seem to be so many different variants of building boats that look similar from the outside. Its like with plumbers and electricians, who by default consider the ways of others strange or outright faulty

 

[Bedford]

Like Mark Pearse I have just found this build and am enthralled. It will be a joy to follow along!

[vaddoc]

Beautiful David, regrettably I missed most of the journey so far. It is amazing how clean and tight the boat looks. Why is the rabet at the stem continuing above the sheer?

Edit: just looked at the actual boat, there is more wood to be added.

Edited May 16, 2021 by vaddoc

[shipman]

What a pleasure to vicariously share your excellent build, 'Druxey'.

Is there a reason why your version is 2' longer than the original?

[druxey]

Shipman: Whoops; a typographical error! I mistyped 28 for 26 in the title. It's a 26 foot cutter. Funny that no-one else noticed this.

 

Vaddoc: Thank you. There is another strake, the wash strake, to be added, and the stem top will be trimmed slightly after. It was made over high for convenience when the embryo model was held on the plug.

 

Thanks for looking in, everyone.

[shipman]

LOL, back in the day, part of my job was as a proof reader.

AND I'M DYSLEXIC! 🤓

[Thistle17]

Are the plans that good David or do you have other referencess? As I study the pictures of late, I marvel at the detail you have incorproated..

Joe

[druxey]

Joe: The plans are good, and I've additional reference photos as well. If you look back to post #163 you see links.

[druxey]

Well, the past three days have been quite challenging. I realized that I needed to add other structures at the bow before adding the inwales.

First was a small fore deck. The plans did not show the plank layout, but one of Eberhard's photos helpfully did. The deck is supported by several narrow beams.

 

Next was the challenge: a massive breasthook in three parts. The two arms are over 5' 0" long and it has a separate cross-chock. The port arm went easily and fitted around the toptimbers nicely. However, the starboard one took six attempts before I finally got an acceptable one. As the cross-chock was let down over the arms I made this in two layers. 

 

Now finally on to the inwales!

 

Edited May 17, 2021 by druxey

[druxey]

CORRECTION: This cutter is, in fact, 28 feet long. I must be losing it. The model is 7" long. Sorry about the confusion over this!

[TBlack]

OK, Druxey, now you've piqued my curiosity. If you can get the port side in one shot, what's different on the starboard side?

Tom

[druxey]

Tom: the fit around the futtocks was not as good!

[druxey]

Now that the length of this cutter has been settled, we continue.

 

The two inwales were tricky in that both inner and outer surfaces have a rolling bevel. My strategy here was to shape the outer bevel and fit the inwales first. Then I sawed the inner shape wide of the marks. The inwales were glued in and then the inner faces carved to shape in place. A very sharp tool plus cutting with the grain were essential for this. The basic hull is very strong at this point and stands the stresses very well. A final sanding completed the inner faces of the inwales. I am now in the process of cutting and fitting an upper breast hook, making it in two pieces.

 

Edited May 19, 2021 by druxey

[wefalck]

These 'rolling' bevels (that look like a beading ?) seem to be quite common on ships and boats. They take away the risk of splintering edges and look 'ship-shape, Bristol-fashion'.