Landlubber Mike Posted October 26, 2021 #181 Posted October 26, 2021 Beautiful work Alan - love the Flower Class ships! Your camo scheme looks fantastic! Old Collingwood, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)
king derelict Posted October 26, 2021 Author #182 Posted October 26, 2021 35 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said: Beautiful work Alan - love the Flower Class ships! Your camo scheme looks fantastic! Thank you Mike I was scared that I would get bleeds at the panel lines but it worked out. Sealing the edges of the tape was a help I think Alan mtaylor, Canute, Old Collingwood and 1 other 4 Quote
king derelict Posted October 27, 2021 Author #183 Posted October 27, 2021 I masked and painted the last sections of the WA blue parts of the camouflage. I'm happy with the final result compared to the photos of Campanula. Now I can move onto setting the decks level and planking the wooden sections. Landlubber Mike, mtaylor, ccoyle and 6 others 8 1 Quote
Landlubber Mike Posted October 27, 2021 #184 Posted October 27, 2021 If you don’t mind me asking, how did you deal the tape edges? I hand brushed Tamiya clear on my current destroyer build along the tape edges to protect stripes and triangles on the funnels, and it worked really well. Just wondering what others do. Canute, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 1 other 4 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)
king derelict Posted November 3, 2021 Author #185 Posted November 3, 2021 On 10/26/2021 at 9:21 PM, Landlubber Mike said: If you don’t mind me asking, how did you deal the tape edges? I hand brushed Tamiya clear on my current destroyer build along the tape edges to protect stripes and triangles on the funnels, and it worked really well. Just wondering what others do. Hi Mike I'm so sorry for the slow response. I used Mig matte clear coat and slightly diluted it with water. It seems to have been working well so far. It hasn't left any discernable edges. Alan Old Collingwood, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote
king derelict Posted November 3, 2021 Author #186 Posted November 3, 2021 This build inches forward at glacial speed. I find myself doing a lot of reading and planning on each step; much more than I would for a regular kit model. Partly I think its trying to decide how much of the generic Flower Class corvette can be tweaked to be a specific ship and then how to achieve it. The historical record is also quite patchy when it comes to detailed deck shots of a particular Flower. I think this may be nearer a scratch build for me than I am used to. Its very enjoyable but I'm not breaking any records making progress. I planked the wooden foredeck and once the glue had set I scraped the planks smooth with a glass microscope slide. It is far too clean and now needs to be weathered with some grey and brown dilute oils. I have filled the portholes and painted the steel decks. The 4 inch gun bandstand has been assembled and painted. Next task is finally shim the foredeck elements and build up some more details prior to placing them permanently. Thanks for looking in Alan mikegr, Ian_Grant, mtaylor and 7 others 10 Quote
yvesvidal Posted November 3, 2021 #187 Posted November 3, 2021 Nice progress Alan. I like that juxtaposition of raw and harsh PLA and soft and smooth wood. It makes for a nice contrast. On a side note, I need to resume my build if I want to have a chance to finish it before you.... Busy with the HMS Bellona right now.... Yves mtaylor, CDW, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote
Landlubber Mike Posted November 3, 2021 #188 Posted November 3, 2021 13 hours ago, king derelict said: Hi Mike I'm so sorry for the slow response. I used Mig matte clear coat and slightly diluted it with water. It seems to have been working well so far. It hasn't left any discernable edges. Alan No worries Alan. My first try at clear coating by hand with Tamiya clear to seal the edges of the tape worked really well too. Nice job on your Flower Class! lmagna, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)
king derelict Posted November 13, 2021 Author #189 Posted November 13, 2021 On 11/3/2021 at 8:49 AM, yvesvidal said: Nice progress Alan. I like that juxtaposition of raw and harsh PLA and soft and smooth wood. It makes for a nice contrast. On a side note, I need to resume my build if I want to have a chance to finish it before you.... Busy with the HMS Bellona right now.... Yves Thank you very much Yves. You set a very high standard to follow. I don't there is any danger of me fiunishing this any time soon. I seem to spend hours just moving bits around and reading up on teh real ships. Alan Old Collingwood, lmagna, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote
king derelict Posted November 13, 2021 Author #190 Posted November 13, 2021 On 11/3/2021 at 9:07 AM, Landlubber Mike said: No worries Alan. My first try at clear coating by hand with Tamiya clear to seal the edges of the tape worked really well too. Nice job on your Flower Class! Thank you very much Mike Alan Old Collingwood, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote
king derelict Posted November 13, 2021 Author #191 Posted November 13, 2021 This has not been abandoned but progress remains very slow. I seem to spend a lot of time trying to work out how to approach the various elements of the build. I guess this is a lot nearer a scratch build than anything I have attempted so far. Reference material is sketchy and the kits generalizations are sometime a bit contradictory. The current task is shimming the decks to get a smooth run along the ship and at the right height; flush on the foredeck and level with the scuppers on the aft decks. I started building up some of the structures to get an idea of how things go together and also to stiffen the deck pieces at some points. Some of the kit parts fit beautifully; others seem to be less well done. When the deck sections for the foredeck are laid down there is a considerable overhand at the aft end. None of the plans that I have show this; they all show the foredeck finishing at the break to the main deck. So some trimming will be needed to bring it into line. Another anomaly is seen where the engine room roof is too long and runs over the aft end of the foredeck. Again it can be trimmed. However more studying of the various corvette plans suggest that, at least for Campanula and her batch of Flowers the funnel is too far forward. So, relative positions of the funnel and cabin, bridge all need to remain as the model is designed but I think I can introduce a space forward of the bridge which will push the funnel back to nearer its real position. That has the effect of extending the foredeck further back over the engine room and if the forward roof section is removed that will all fit together about where I want it. The overhanging part of the foredeck can then be reshaped to reflect the shape of deck seen on some of the modified Flowers. I think I will use plastic sheet of the appropriate thickness rather than try to print out something and shape it to fit. The scrapped deck sections that suffered from warping are proving to be very useful cut up into joining sections between deck pieces The batch of Flowers of which Campanula is a part had the short wooden side decks that start at the rear of the engine room. To accommodate the extra thickness of the wood I printed a second set of side decks and the aft part of the aft deck and then cut off the side pieces where the wooden deck will be installed. Once the decks are levelled correctly then the focus will be more on assembly of parts which should be rather fun now that most of the major decision making about layout etc. is complete. Thanks for looking in. I hope everyone has a great weekend Alan Canute, Old Collingwood, CDW and 6 others 9 Quote
king derelict Posted November 14, 2021 Author #192 Posted November 14, 2021 I started joining some of the deck sections using tabs made of scrap deck pieces. Out of curiosity I used a couple of drops of Tamiya plastic cement on one of the tabs and got a fast and strong bond with the deck piece to be attached. I was quite excited thinking I had found a simple and clean way to build up the superstructure and deck fittings. I find epoxy to be a bit imprecise and messy to work with as well as the nuisance of needing to keep mixing small quantities of the adhesive. I try not to use CA glues as I think I get a reaction to the fumes so this looked like a good option but when I tried to use plastic cement to edge join the walls of the chartroom it would not bond at all so I'm back to five minute epoxy. Printing continues with some of the smaller parts. In spite of occasional frustrations with the vagaries of the printer I am still fascinated by the parts it produces. Today I was working on the ships boats and ventilation cowls. The right hand boat is still in its supports and so is the white ventilator. These are easily detached and discarded. I think I am suffering from filament degradation. I am using a couple of reels that have been open for a while and the print quality is not good with poor adhesion between layers and very poor finish. I have cooked the white reel in a drying box for six hours and that seems to be printing very nicely again so hopefully the other reel will also respond to treatment. Looks like something to watch. The reels are about four months old and stored in sealed plastic bags. Alan lmagna, Canute, yvesvidal and 6 others 9 Quote
CDW Posted November 14, 2021 #193 Posted November 14, 2021 Very nice looking parts you're printing there! I wonder if that "gold" label CA glue gives off toxic fumes like the other CA does? I know for sure it doesn't frost clear plastic like the other stuff does. lmagna, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 1 other 4 Quote Completed Projects: USS Fletcher 1:144 Scharnhorst 1:350 USS Independence LCS-2 1:350 1:32 J7W1 Shinden Interceptor/Fighter Fairey Swordfish Mk. II 1:48 Harbor Tug Box Scale Albatros D.V 1:32 Ala-Kart 1:25 Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder 1:24 S-100 Schnellboot 1:72 Mercury Capsule and Atlas Booster BR-52 Steam Locomotive 1:35 Triumph 3 HW Motorcycle 1:9 Scale F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter Bomber 1:48 Rafale 1:48 F-15E Strike Eagle 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2 Soviet Dive Bomber 1:48 TBM3 Avenger 1:32 1931 Cadillac 1:25 Scammell Pioneer SV2S Heavy Breakdown Tractor 1:35 M-50 Israeli Sherman 1:35 Military Wrecker 1:32 Delahaye 135 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT 1:24 Enzo Ferrari 1:24 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro 1:25 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 Stock Car 1:25 American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper 1:25 1940 Ford Standard Coupe 1:25 VolksWagen Dragster/Dune Buggy/Street Rod 1:25 Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 1:12 Porsche GT-1 Evo 1:24 Scharnhorst 1940 1:700 IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender 1:700 HMS Hood 1941 1:700 Prinz Eugen 1942 1:700
Old Collingwood Posted November 15, 2021 #194 Posted November 15, 2021 Very nice work Alan. OC. mtaylor, lmagna and Canute 3 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1
king derelict Posted November 16, 2021 Author #195 Posted November 16, 2021 On 11/14/2021 at 12:23 PM, CDW said: Very nice looking parts you're printing there! I wonder if that "gold" label CA glue gives off toxic fumes like the other CA does? I know for sure it doesn't frost clear plastic like the other stuff does. Hi Craig The printing is still a bit hit and miss. I finished up the reel of white filament printing some bollards and cleats which came out very nicely. Switched to a brand new reel of filament and without making any adjustments tried to repeat a print of the bollards - and they came out completely rubbish - the filament was separating from adjacent layers and there were gaps in the print. I moved onto some other parts and they are printing but again with gaps and a poor surface finish. Sometimes it feels like there are too many variables to control. Alan Canute, Old Collingwood, lmagna and 1 other 4 Quote
king derelict Posted November 16, 2021 Author #196 Posted November 16, 2021 On 11/14/2021 at 12:23 PM, CDW said: Very nice looking parts you're printing there! I wonder if that "gold" label CA glue gives off toxic fumes like the other CA does? I know for sure it doesn't frost clear plastic like the other stuff does. I tried the BSI gold label CA and it definitely has lower odour. Its also very thin so just cutting the seal off the nozzle I got a liberal quantity all over my hands and the cutting board. So far no bad reactions so it either do cause less respiratory issues or I'm not as sensitive as I thought. I'm going to have to learn to use the stuff though I was struggling to pick it up and place it on the model; I usually use the thick style CA and dressmakers pins Alan Canute, CDW, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote
king derelict Posted November 16, 2021 Author #197 Posted November 16, 2021 22 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: Very nice work Alan. OC. Thank you for the encoraging words OC. Sometimes I feel I am out of my depth with this one. Alan Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote
Old Collingwood Posted November 16, 2021 #198 Posted November 16, 2021 1 hour ago, king derelict said: Thank you for the encoraging words OC. Sometimes I feel I am out of my depth with this one. Alan Just keep at your own pace - back off if you need to - main thing (with all of us) is to enjoy it - also think we discover things about our abilities as we go along. Keep at it mate - is a credit to you. OC. Canute and mtaylor 1 1 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1
mtaylor Posted November 16, 2021 #199 Posted November 16, 2021 Weird that the filament reacted differently. Any difference (brand? material?) between the two other than one being new? Jack12477, lmagna and Canute 3 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
king derelict Posted November 16, 2021 Author #200 Posted November 16, 2021 21 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: Just keep at your own pace - back off if you need to - main thing (with all of us) is to enjoy it - also think we discover things about our abilities as we go along. Keep at it mate - is a credit to you. OC. Thank you OC. I think I am going to finish building up the basic structures. I think they are all printed now and then take a break and work on a Flyhawk 1/700 or similar to get back to a more structured build. Right now I'm trying to print detail parts like the life raft supports and its proving almost impossible to get a good print so putting it away for a while might be helpful. Alan Canute and Old Collingwood 2 Quote
king derelict Posted November 17, 2021 Author #201 Posted November 17, 2021 19 hours ago, mtaylor said: Weird that the filament reacted differently. Any difference (brand? material?) between the two other than one being new? Hi Mark Same material but different manufacturers so maybe there is something there. That's the problem, trying to decide which variable is the one giving trouble. I spent the afternoon trying to print the life raft supports and could not get a decent print. I swapped filament to no avail. Wondered about nozzle temperature and cranked that up, maybe its the print speed so slowed that down. That made things a little better but still didn't get a good print. Then you start to think; should I change the nozzle, is there a fundamental fault in the machine. Identifying the cause of the fault is not easy - at least to me. At least with Yves making the same model I can dismiss the print files as a source of error. I think teh ideal would be to have a friend next door with the same machine and filament to cross check performance and settings.😄 Alan CDW, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote
mtaylor Posted November 17, 2021 #202 Posted November 17, 2021 It very well could be the brand of filament. Just like all acrylic paints aren't the same. lmagna, Canute, king derelict and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
king derelict Posted November 18, 2021 Author #203 Posted November 18, 2021 23 hours ago, mtaylor said: It very well could be the brand of filament. Just like all acrylic paints aren't the same. Hi Mark Yes, I think you are right. I have read that different brands of filament need slightly different nozzle temperatures to achieve a good performance. I spent the afternoon trying to print this - the life raft support structure I varied speed and temperature but never got close to a good print. I guess I can fabricate a structure from plastic rod but that sort of dodges the point of the model. Alan lmagna, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 1 other 1 3 Quote
king derelict Posted November 18, 2021 Author #204 Posted November 18, 2021 Today I finished shimming the deck sections to achieve a flush and consistent level along the hull. The basic building blocks of the structures are complete and placed on the hull to determine final positioning. I have determined that I want to move the bridge, funnel and deck house back over the engine room and then reshape the aft section of the bridge deck to mimic the modified Flowers (ay least some of them). The funnel still isn't really far enough back but any further results in a short engine room and very wrong aft bridge deck so I think this is the best compromise. The photos show the deck sections in the modified position and the gap that will need to be filled with plastic sheet Thanks for looking and for all the support Alan CDW, yvesvidal, gjdale and 8 others 11 Quote
yvesvidal Posted November 18, 2021 #205 Posted November 18, 2021 12 hours ago, king derelict said: Today I finished shimming the deck sections to achieve a flush and consistent level along the hull. Definitely one of the most important milestone of that project. I know I spent a lot of time fine tuning it and it paid off immensely. Yves Old Collingwood, Landlubber Mike, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote
king derelict Posted November 19, 2021 Author #206 Posted November 19, 2021 On 11/16/2021 at 8:38 PM, mtaylor said: It very well could be the brand of filament. Just like all acrylic paints aren't the same. I ordered a reel of the OEM filament to see if that makes any difference. mtaylor, Old Collingwood and Canute 3 Quote
king derelict Posted November 19, 2021 Author #207 Posted November 19, 2021 Today was mostly spent with the mechanics of printing. I talked to my colleague in Maryland who has an Ender 3 and asked if he could try a print of the life raft support using the gcode file I sent to him to see if its a problem with the file or set up. He was in the middle of a TPU print so forwarded the request to a mutual friend who also has the same machine and he was able to get a good print at the first attempt. That suggests that there is nothing wrong with the files driving the machine and leaves the machine, the operator and the filament as the problem. On line research suggests that it could be one of the following - bad nozzle - under extruding - over extruding - bad motherboard - slack belts - over tight belts - bad stepper motors Its quite a (contrary) list and opens up the possibility of spending a lot of money chasing this around the machine. A new nozzle is not a big issue and an upgraded extruder is not too expensive. The belts look OK. Installing a new motherboard sounds difficult and pricey. The problem is diagnostics seem to be difficult to find; it seems to be a question of keep changing things until the problem goes away. At some point its cheaper to just get a new machine. I need to resolve this to print most of the remaining parts. As you can see in previous images there are areas of bad printing in some of the deck pieces but that can be fixed with primer and filler. The adventure continues Alan Canute, mtaylor and lmagna 3 Quote
mtaylor Posted November 19, 2021 #208 Posted November 19, 2021 Oh... crap. Let's hope it's the filament. That shopping list for troubleshooting sounds like it just swap parts and hope for the best. Not good. Canute and lmagna 1 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
king derelict Posted November 19, 2021 Author #209 Posted November 19, 2021 23 minutes ago, mtaylor said: Oh... crap. Let's hope it's the filament. That shopping list for troubleshooting sounds like it just swap parts and hope for the best. Not good. It think that is the frustration, I'm used to working through a clear diagnostic path to neck down to teh problem. This seems like you could end up with another machines worth of spare bits and still have no idea what is causing the problem. I forgot vibration, fluctuating ambient temperature, phase of the moon etc 😄 Alan mtaylor, Canute and lmagna 3 Quote
mtaylor Posted November 19, 2021 #210 Posted November 19, 2021 Have you tried a Ouija board? Sounds like that might work as well the manufacturers instructions/list. I'll keep my fingers crossed it's just the filament but considering all the problems you had early, I'm beginning to wonder..... Jack12477, Canute and lmagna 3 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
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