Flower-Class Corvette by king derelict - FINISHED - Bensworx Virtual Kit - 1/48 - a log for the less gifted

[Landlubber Mike]

Glad you got that figured out Alan.  I would have been tempted to throw it out the window    Parts are looking fantastic!

 

This gives me flashbacks to when @mtaylor had to show his Death Star who was boss...

Edited November 26, 2021 by Landlubber Mike

[Old Collingwood]

2 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Glad you got that figured out Alan.  I would have been tempted to throw it out the window    Parts are looking fantastic!

 

This gives me flashbacks to when @mtaylor had to show his Death Star who was boss...

Don't remember that Mike.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Maybe the reason the gear is made of brass is due to the heat applied at the extruder. Perhaps brass has a lower rate of expansion from heat. 
So glad to see you found the source of your malfunction. Next time I pull my machine out of storage, need to check my gear as well.

[Haze Gray]

Back when you were having extrusion issues I was thinking it could due to not enough pressure on the filament and it might be slipping - but looking at the distortion on the gear maybe you had it screwed down extremely tight.....  but I've never seen plastic filament actually deform metal - that a first for sure!

[king derelict]

On 11/25/2021 at 10:17 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Glad you got that figured out Alan.  I would have been tempted to throw it out the window    Parts are looking fantastic!

 

This gives me flashbacks to when @mtaylor had to show his Death Star who was boss...

Thanks Mike

It got very close. I was trying to decide between buying a whole new machine or dumping the Ender and the part-built corvette in the bin. Its good to have found a clear solution - and for $20

Alan

[king derelict]

On 11/28/2021 at 8:00 AM, CDW said:

Maybe the reason the gear is made of brass is due to the heat applied at the extruder. Perhaps brass has a lower rate of expansion from heat. 
So glad to see you found the source of your malfunction. Next time I pull my machine out of storage, need to check my gear as well.

Thanks Craig

Its good to be moving forward again

Alan

[king derelict]

22 hours ago, Haze Gray said:

Back when you were having extrusion issues I was thinking it could due to not enough pressure on the filament and it might be slipping - but looking at the distortion on the gear maybe you had it screwed down extremely tight.....  but I've never seen plastic filament actually deform metal - that a first for sure!

As far as i could see the spring providing the tension in the extruder gear and roller was fully extended so at its softest grip. The new one definitely is. A friend suggested that it could have been a soft gear so we will see how this one holds up. The fact that there are so few upgraded gears out there might suggest that wear is not a serious issue.

Alan

[king derelict]

It has been a while since the last update. The real world has been intruding a bit and I've also been spending a lot of time working on teh final layout of the ship. I had decided earlier to move the funnel back to nearer its position on the real modified corvettes. This had the knock-on effect of shortening the distance between the funnel and the aft gun bandstand. The deck aft of the engine room is also too spacious. It was the only place on the ship where the whole crew could gather but it wasn't that big. So I felt that the only solution was to lengthen the engine room which would also address the other problems. 

I implemented this by cutting back into the aft deck and printing a second copy of the forward parts of the port and starboard engine room walls and cutting about one and a half panels from the new pieces and joining them to the front of the engine room walls. After cutting the parts I put the new port piece on the starboard wall and vice versa on the other side. This kept the flow of whole panels with the half panel out of sight under the upper deck.

The engine room was reassembled 

The modified engine room was dry fitted to determine the make-up piece of decking forward of the bridge.

 

The new deck piece was cut from a sheet of styrene (and I have to say it was pleasure to work with after the PLA parts) and is test fitted.

The revised engine room has had the ventilators and the skylights added and then a first coat of primer. It now needs a little filler before moving on to the paint coats.

The recessed area on the side decks will take the wooden decking.

I think this is the end of the major decisions on the layout of the model and now each deck section can be worked on to add detail and paint. This should all be enjoyable after the rather unwieldy activity getting the elements of the model to come together.

Much as I am continuing to be impressed by the potential of the concept of a printed ship there are a couple of issues that I find difficult.

The PLA material is horrible to work with. It is very hard and cutting and sanding it is hard work. Filing seems to be a bit easier but modifying parts is tedious

I find the epoxy glue is messy and difficult to use with precision. That probably mainly me being clumsy. It is also not a great choice for some of the thinner areas or where there is flexibility. The glue sets very rigid and if the part is flexed it just cracks back apart. I now roughen each part (the texture from the printing is not adequate and clean with alcohol before gluing and get rather better results. I would probably do better and get stronger and cleaner joints with the appropriate solvent, but the fumes worry me. Its all a learning experience.

Thanks for looking in. I may take a break having reached what feels like a milestone to me and then come back to tackle the deck sections as mini kits after Christmas.

Alan

[lmagna]

You have overcome much in this build Alan but I think when you get back after Christmas you will be somewhat reconstituted and more of your build will become rewarding and enjoyable.

 

Watching your efforts to bring about a complete ship has certainly been helpful to me. It has been good to see more of the learning curve in 3D printing and some of the potential pitfalls. 

[Veszett Roka]

Can i get the plans for the 3D printed cat over there? 😄

[king derelict]

22 hours ago, lmagna said:

You have overcome much in this build Alan but I think when you get back after Christmas you will be somewhat reconstituted and more of your build will become rewarding and enjoyable.

 

Watching your efforts to bring about a complete ship has certainly been helpful to me. It has been good to see more of the learning curve in 3D printing and some of the potential pitfalls. 

Thank you for the support Lou. I have found the process to be harder than I expected but I have learnt a lot as it progressed. Overall it is still enjoyable but there have been some frustrating moments with teh printer and working around the generic nature of the model. The next phase should be less fraught and thus more enjoyable as teh detail builds up.

Alan

[king derelict]

15 hours ago, Veszett Roka said:

Can i get the plans for the 3D printed cat over there? 😄

You need lots of fine filament to print that one 😄. That is Gracie my Maine Coon mix adopted from the local shelter when she was four months old.

[CDW]

From the 3D print model aircraft designers, today I received this offer for a free sample of lightweight filament suitable for 3D printed model aircraft. It looks promising as light weight is a huge factor model aircraft, as well as resistance to UV light/temperature/warping.

 

FREE SAMPLE - PolyLight 1.0 - LW PLA – 3DLabPrint

[king derelict]

14 minutes ago, CDW said:

From the 3D print model aircraft designers, today I received this offer for a free sample of lightweight filament suitable for 3D printed model aircraft. It looks promising as light weight is a huge factor model aircraft, as well as resistance to UV light/temperature/warping.

 

FREE SAMPLE - PolyLight 1.0 - LW PLA – 3DLabPrint

That looks very interesting Craig. Are you going to try it. I have a friend in Maryland building a huge A10 RC plane with 3D printed parts. This aspect of modelling is a huge adventure - its also a huge rabbit hole.

Alan

[CDW]

Just now, king derelict said:

That looks very interesting Craig. Are you going to try it. I have a friend in Maryland building a huge A10 RC plane with 3D printed parts. This aspect of modelling is a huge adventure - its also a huge rabbit hole.

Alan

Tried it a few years ago and quit before I finished. I needed to purchase a more suitable slicer software as the free ones could not handle the complexity of the print. I experienced a number of setbacks that occurred after many hours of printing (sometimes overnight) and just before they finished, something would go wrong and spoil the whole part. By this time, no telling what condition my printer is in. Have it stored in a large plastic container in my garage. I was trying to print the massive model of the F-4U Corsair.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Hi Alan, all that frustration with printing mirrors my experience and saw me shift to resin, which is much easier, though still has its challenges. However, there are a few things I haven’t seen you mention, which you may or may not have looked at, which I’ll go through just in case and perhaps for the benefit of others.

 

1) calibrating the filament feed. I suspect you’ve done this, used pronterface etc. if not, shout out.

2) is the basic bed flat. I know mine isn’t. It’s close but does fade off very, very slightly towards the edges. I use a glass platter held in place with small document clips so this in turn doesn’t distort, and hairspray (actually, I bought the pricey 3D printing stuff) and this solved most problems with lack of adhesion.

3) replace the Bowden tube. This made the most difference. I think the stock one is a bit rubbish. The ‘go-to’ brand is Capricorn, not very expensive. The friction from the tube results in less filament going through the nozzle and the undue resistance can cause the gear wheels to grind the filament. This might be why your wheels got wrecked. When I swapped to Capricorn, if the model stuck to the plate, it would always deliver a decent print.

4) filament. I now only use PETG. this is much more forgiving that PLA, and less rigid as well. I have no idea which brands are good, which aren’t, think this remains a lottery variable. Yves, if you’re reading, can you tell us what brand and type you’ve used?

5) drying the filament - see you’ve done that, I stick mine in the oven on a VERY low heat for a few hours. Wife not too happy but needs must. Even after a few days it’s not as good as new and my guess is that this is moisture related.

6) get the filament spool off the machine and control how it rolls. Basically, make a spool roller with a brake. I’ll send you stl’s if you want, for a Heath Robinson affair I knocked up way back, that has the spool mounted on a board besides the printer; as you’ve probably noticed, it can be ‘jerky’ when mounted on the chassis and this cannot possibly be a good thing. Just reply here or via pm if you want stl’s or a photo

7) ditch the paper, use feeler gauges. I was then at least able to determine what gap worked and what didn’t, brought some science to levelling, and understand by how much there was variation across the levelled plate.  If in doubt, replace the nozzle. They’re cheap as chips, I treat them as short life disposables and you at least get a guaranteed clean measuring surface with a new nozzle.

😎 wisps: use a heat gun. Just wave it over the finished object and the fairy hair shrivels away to nothing. Practice first though, it doesn’t need much heat. 

 

I now need to incorporate all your learning to see if all of this taken together results in reliable printing. For me it’s always been hit or miss, I can do multiple prints of even fairly big objects without any issue, change to a different object and inexplicably get spaghetti. Drives me up the wall! I have never managed to get a single bit of ABS filament to stick, major disappointment as that would be my first choice of material, not least because you can smooth it with acetone I.e. minimal filling and sanding. Intrigued by the rabbit ears, will try that - always have to use a raft.

 

BTW, I generally print at a speed of 50 but run the hot end and bed at much higher temps than you, 235 and 70 respectively and use a superfine or ultra fine cura profile. Less than that and I routinely got lack of adhesion to the bed or between layers. I think that, as has been suggested, the out-of-the-box ender 3 is a decent starter kit but you probably do need to upgrade most moving parts to get what we’re all looking for. And, I am most definitely not an expert, I’ve been neither more nor less successful than you but the above are things that worked for me, and hopefully some may be useful for you too. Last but not least, the model itself, so far, looks great and I’m sure it’s worth all the pain.

[king derelict]

On 12/9/2021 at 6:27 PM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Hi Alan, all that frustration with printing mirrors my experience and saw me shift to resin, which is much easier, though still has its challenges. However, there are a few things I haven’t seen you mention, which you may or may not have looked at, which I’ll go through just in case and perhaps for the benefit of others.

 

Hi Kevin

Thank you for the very informative comments. Very helpful and some useful new tip and ideas to try

In response to your note.

1 - I calibrated the filament feed by just measuring the length consumed versus the amount commanded. That found the worn gear and the estep needed changing for the new gear. I just looked at pronterface. Thank you very much for that; I have made a note to use it for printer checks in the future.

 

2 -I have the coated Creality glass bed and it seems a little higher in the middle sloping to the edges

 

3 - I just received a length of Capricorn tubing so; after your comments I am very interested to see the improvement when its fitted. The OEM Bowden tube may be a big contributor to the under extrusion and gear damage

 

4 - Filament. I think there is quite a difference between PLA brands. I have used Overture brand mainly so far (As does Yves I believe) but the Creality sample that came with the printer seems much softer. I have just received a spool of their PLA to see if that is true of their filament in general. So far I have only used PLA

 

5 - Yes I think the drying helps with print quality. If I had more room I would like to try feeding directly from the dryer to the printer.

 

6 - I would like to see a better spool holder. There is quite high drag on the original set up sometimes and may explain a filament break I had. Many Thanks

 

7 - For levelling I tend to use the paper check as a rough start and then I run a print file that runs a series of layers around the edges of the bed and generates the square pads at corners and centre. While its running it is easy to see whether the nozzle is too near or too far from teh bed and adjust accordingly. It can actually be done while its running with care.

I will try a new nozzle too. I bought a pack of ten recently.

 

The wisp removal with a heat gun sounds good.

 

I have been using a slow speed for the initial layer along with a hotter bed temperature and nozzle temperature. The speed is increased and the temperatures are reduced for subsequent layers. I think it helps bed adhesion and quality but it may just be my voodoo

 

I routinely use a brim to prevent corners lifting and other warping. The change in temperature is also supposed to help there too.

 

The mouse ear brims are a bit hit and miss. I tend to use them when its a big print and its going to use a lot of time and filament to run a full brim. Every now and then the mouse ear won't stick and the nozzle will push it around and ruin the print.

 

The variability is a constant frustration. It irritates me to make a print and need a second, identical piece. Same file, same starting temperatures and same filament. The first print was perfect so start the second one. return an hour later to find the nozzle pushing a ball of filament around the bed. Arrgh.

 

I think I am going to try new rollers. I feel a slight hesitation when I move the x axis by hand and I notice some bearing material furring up in the roller. Th etension seemed good but maybe I have too high. I just need to sort out a decent set of rollers. There are a lot out there with very mixed reviews. Any experience there?

 

Thank you again for the very helpful comments. You have given me more solutions for the road to good prints.

 

Have a great weekend

 

Alan

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Hi Alan, I actually meant how flat is the basic plate i.e. the one you clip the glass or magnetic pad to. When I put a rule across mine it's just ever so slightly off flat, and I figured the same would therefore be true when I used the magnetic mat, hence went to glass (which I think was just better anyway).

 

This is what I did wrt a spool holder;

 

I had a spare bit of oak kitchen top (very nice!) and the spool roller assembly is screwed to this. The printer is just sat there.

 

A big, printed threaded bar goes through the spool, it has a small bearing inserted at each end. The small piece you see at bottom right has a round bar that slides into the bearing and a hex shaped body that drops into the stand 'sockets' on either side. It's hex shaped so only the bearings roll. Then two threaded wheels with conical webs to centre and grip the spool. The threads came out fairly rough, I think this was probably more tinkercad than the printer or slicer, they are more a series of linked flats than a smooth helix.

 

A brake. With bearings, the spool runs very freely and tended to over-run. I just apply a little friction to the side of the spool and, because the brake is pointed downwards, it also stops recoil.

 

I did all the above in tinkercad, before graduating to Fusion 360, in fact I think this might have been one of my first projects so the design quality is a bit suspect! Works though. I remember I had to abandon using printed threads apart from the very big one and use 2 x M6 bolts for the brake. If you haven't already seen this, take a look at https://all3dp.com/. It has lots of helpful stuff about calibration, troubleshooting etc.

 

I'd love to see you crack this inconsistency issue. Personally, I wouldn't mind spending another £100 or so on better parts if it meant being able to reliably print in FDM as it opens up the world of much, much bigger models like yours, but I did get pretty fed up with chasing my tail. 

 

Just in passing, I've used all sizes of nozzles and was regularly having success, on very small parts, with as small as 0.2mm. If memory serves 0.1mm was just pushing it too far. But the finish is never a patch on resin, if you want to see the difference take a look at my victory log.

 

 

 

 

 

[king derelict]

Kevin

The spool holder is very nice; looks like a big improvement over hanging the spool off the printer. 

 

Yes I think resin looks like the way to get the best detail but with my natural clumsiness and two inquisitive long haired cats I'm not sure I should be handling resin.😄

 

I need to try different nozzle sizes; so far I have stuck with 0.4 mm. 

 

I feel a bit better about the whole printing business now that I seem to have the levelling and feed under better control. I am using the Creality coated glass bed top and so far haven't used glue sticks or hairspray. As I said earlier repeat prints still occasionally fail for no obvious reason. I guess it keeps me humble.

Alan

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I tried glue stick once and once was enough. Messy old business. Hairspray is the my weapon of choice, you can rinse the platter under hot water and it’s good as new.

 

I read recently that resin is less toxic than most household cleaners. But with a wash and cure machine the process is not actually messy at all, nor even smelly. I run my resin printers in my home office as they need a warm room, often have them quietly purring away during the day and you barely hear them. Still, I wouldn’t want to have the cats around them, much too risky.

[king derelict]

After a longer than planned break i summoned up the courage to deal with the demon printer again. Of course having been sat idle for four months I had to spend an hour levelling the bed again and the first few prints required further adjustments but I think its about right again. Hopefully the new feed system will continue to produce consistent results.

I'm working on detailing the foredeck area and the bandstand before installing it on the hull. I had printed quite a few of the details but I'm reassessing some of them now that I am getting better print quality. I printed a selection of hatches, the reels and the windlass parts. The earlier windlass is in the background and looks tatty by comparison with todays effort.

 

I need to source some anchor chain now

 

I'm trying to get away from using epoxy glue and would prefer to not use CA all the time. I bought a tin of MEK and tried it and was not impressed. I later found that it is MEK substitute which might explain it

 

I think most of the heavy printing is done so it should not be a major part of the continuing build but there are quite a few small parts to print out.

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Alan

 

 

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

This thread is displaying strangely today so I can’t see whether I’ve already said this, so apologies if I’m repeating. Two or three months back I did a load of upgrades to my ender 3 printer which have pretty much transformed the experience from endless frustration and disappointment to an easy, reliable go-to for many things. Firstly I bought a filament heater for about £30. I believe this makes a huge difference to bed adhesion and print finish. I then replaced the bed springs for about £5. I haven’t re-adjusted the levelling since fitting these as the bed simply doesn’t move anymore. Though I also fitted the auto-levelling gizmo, which might contribute. I then upgraded the motherboard to the latest version, along with a silent fan for the power supply. Printing is now virtually silent instead of all that whizzing and whirring. In fact it’s so quiet I happily have that running during the day while I’m sat next to it in zoom meetings for work. All told I guess I spent about £100 and it was well worth it.

nb. the filament heater makes my spool holder redundant as it has rollers. Worth mentioning that I linked the heater box to the printer with a short piece of spare Capricorn Bowden tube so that it is an almost sealed system, and I run the heater all the time I’m printing.

[king derelict]

15 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

This thread is displaying strangely today so I can’t see whether I’ve already said this, so apologies if I’m repeating. Two or three months back I did a load of upgrades to my ender 3 printer which have pretty much transformed the experience from endless frustration and disappointment to an easy, reliable go-to for many things. Firstly I bought a filament heater for about £30. I believe this makes a huge difference to bed adhesion and print finish. I then replaced the bed springs for about £5. I haven’t re-adjusted the levelling since fitting these as the bed simply doesn’t move anymore. Though I also fitted the auto-levelling gizmo, which might contribute. I then upgraded the motherboard to the latest version, along with a silent fan for the power supply. Printing is now virtually silent instead of all that whizzing and whirring. In fact it’s so quiet I happily have that running during the day while I’m sat next to it in zoom meetings for work. All told I guess I spent about £100 and it was well worth it.

nb. the filament heater makes my spool holder redundant as it has rollers. Worth mentioning that I linked the heater box to the printer with a short piece of spare Capricorn Bowden tube so that it is an almost sealed system, and I run the heater all the time I’m printing.

Hi Kevin

It amazes me how the printer seems to shift out of alignment for no good reason. Maybe because it was moved during the down time. Anyway it seems to be back in the groove today

I upgraded the bed springs a while ago, I use a filament heater too. The metal extruder seems to be well worth the money so far. I installed a capricon Bowden tube. I'm thinking of new rollers if I can find a solid reccomendation. There seems to be a lot of options around and they all get very mixed reviews. A new motherboard is also up for consideration.

Alan

[king derelict]

I'm having a bit of trouble getting back into the rhythm of this one. There seems to be so many things to do that I start one element and then get distracted and go off to play with something else and then again off to research and read up on Flower corvettes. Hopefully things will start to settle down.

I had been lazy and had grouped a lot of the deck fittings together into a single print. On closer examination a lot of the parts were a bit messy; maybe because of the cooling of layers as the print head moves between all the pieces. I printed out some individual parts and they were much nicer so I went back and printed them all again. They only take 10 - 15 minutes so printing them is a bit of a distraction; removing teh completed part, reheating the bed and starting the job over again.

I printed the remaining items needed to complete the foredeck section

Sheer curiosity had me also print the propellor. Here it is as it came off the printer still with brim and support structure.

Once that was removed it looks quite nice.

Parts are getting a primer coat and hopefully we will see some more orderly progress as I build up the foredeck

I hope everyone has a great weekend. Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

 

 

[king derelict]

I'm still working this is a rather disjointed fashion but I think all the foredeck components have now gone through primer and paint stages. Unfortunately the two sections of the foredeck separated while i was masking up the deck to paint the breakwater but its back together - trying CA glue this time.

I used grey shades of oil paint to weather the wooden section of the deck. It has dried a bit lighter than I expected but it still looked well used.

I'm looking forward to adding some details now

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

[king derelict]

Slowly moving forward with the foredeck. Most of the fittings have been painted and the steam winch has been assembled

 

The hatches and bollards are in place. I have ventilators and the chain leads to add and well as hose reels.

Overall it should look quite reasonable when the paint is tidied up and some weathering is added.

 

Although I am getting better print quality now I am not happy with the detail in some prints. I don't know if its file errors or printer settings. But there is extraneous filament build up in places. As usual the choice of culprit (if its the printer) is wide. Printer speed, extrusion rate, nozzle temperature, nozzle size. etc. And it could be the filament

I'm thinking of investing in some smaller nozzles to try that out.

The pictures show the halves of the four inch gun and the 2 pounder aft gun. You can see the rough quality of the printing especially in the 2 pdr.

So I am printing test prints now to see if I can improve quality - back down the rabbit hole for a while.

 

I am not convinced that I can print the Oerlikons acceptably even if I can up the quality so I looked at Micro Masters. They have a four inch gun in 1/48 at $129 the Oerlikons are $30 and the 2 pdr is $40. I will wait and see how the rest of the ship comes out before committing too much to get one or two parts looking good.

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Hi Alan, one or two years back I ran up against the same issue, where I just couldn’t get the quality of finish on small parts, especially on round objects that had to be printed in the horizontal. I remember trying to print cannons for the victory, going round and round in circles with the settings, trying different nozzle sizes and so on. What I can say is that 0.2mm nozzles will give a finer result, but were more prone to zits and suchlike and still couldn’t give me what I wanted. However this was before I had a heater and upgraded springs so you might find you have less problems.
 

Which is when I took the plunge and bought a resin printer. My view is that having both types is the best solution for modelling. You get immaculate, incredibly detailed prints from resin, there is virtually no tail-chasing with set-up, but there are, nevertheless, drawbacks. Almost everything needs supporting so you have a good side and a bad side, though you can often polish that up. Resin parts tend to be a bit fragile so aren’t so good where a bit of strength is needed, and warping / dimensional accuracy can be an issue. And there’s the additional outlay, plus resin is a bit more expensive than filament. However I virtually guarantee that you would have chosen to print 99% of what’s in your pics in resin and been delighted with the results.

 

The one thing where I think FDM still has the edge is on objects with a flat face. They come out more accurate, don’t shrink or distort and the surface finish can be easily sanded or filled. If you follow my link to the Cutty sark you’ll see the decks I printed, which I think are not too far off being as good as wood veneers.

 

If I’ve tempted you to look at buying a resin printer can I offer a word of advice - don’t get the smallest one, you’ll probably regret that quite quickly. Bite the bullet and get something like the elegoo Saturn. That extra build size will allow you to print a much wider range of items, as the Mars capacity is really quite limited. I did it the hard way and now have two resin printers. It’s not worth selling the Mars as they go very cheaply second hand so I just use it for small stuff.

[yvesvidal]

12 hours ago, king derelict said:

 

Alan, for some of the parts, I had a friend print them with a resin printer. The PLA just doesn't cut it.

 

You may try at very slow speed (40% or 20 mm per second) to improve the quality. 

 

Yves

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Just in the vein of resin vs filament, I read recently that amazon are developing their own marque of 3D printers and aiming at these having the capability for both resin and filament. That could have been an april fools joke but it didnt seem so. How they'd do this will be interesting to see, given the difference in functional designs, but I'm sure it's perfectly possible; and if so, I would expect this to be the next game changer, where for hobbyists it wouldn't make any sense to choose a single purpose machine.

[yvesvidal]

2 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Just in the vein of resin vs filament, I read recently that amazon are developing their own marque of 3D printers and aiming at these having the capability for both resin and filament. That could have been an april fools joke but it didnt seem so. How they'd do this will be interesting to see, given the difference in functional designs, but I'm sure it's perfectly possible; and if so, I would expect this to be the next game changer, where for hobbyists it wouldn't make any sense to choose a single purpose machine.

 

Sounds like the washer/Dryer combo.... 

 

Yves