HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Glenn UK, Glenn USA, Kirby, Ron, Marc, Rusty, and Thuky, for your supportive comments and for all the ‘likes’

 

@ Glenn USA  - as someone who admires the superb quality of your work, your words mean a lot to me. I put a lot of effort into the headworks, scrolls and friezes, and I’m pleased how it turned out. I also have Chuck to thank for the stern decorative panels.

 

@ Ron - Thanks for your input, always welcome, I was thinking of displaying the boats separately within the case, but I won’t be able to resist at least trying the Pinnace on the skids.

I too am interested in how your Camilla will look in her watery setting, on the basis of your previous examples I think she will look amazing.

 

@ Thuky - I think you already are, I can see you have the mindset for this malarkey, your willingness to re-work your Alert stern is the mark of the dedicated ship modeller who is bound to succeed.

 

 

B.E.

[BobG]

Stunning model, BE! Fantastic workmanship!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bob.

 

Post One hundred and Forty-six

 

The Ships boats.

 The boat allocation for  Sphinx

 Chris has  generously provided three boats to adorn Sphinx.

 

A 28’ Pinnace, 24’ Launch’ and 22’ Yawl. This follows the allocation indicated in the AotS book  for the 24 gun Frigate Pandora  which also had an additional Yawl and an 18’ cutter.

 This is slightly out of sync with the official boat establishments, but Pandora was on a specific mission, and her establishment is a matter of record.

 Despite establishment allocations for different classes of ships, Captains were allowed to petition for alternatives, so I doubt anything was really set in stone, and that wonderful phrase ‘subject to the exigencies of the Service’ comes to mind.

 

I am not exactly unfamiliar with these boat kits having built both the Yawl and cutter previously, but they are nice little projects and I look forward to including them with, if not on, my build of Sphinx.

 

I did a separate log in relation to the Yawl and cutter last year detailing my experience with these bijou kits.

18th c Ships boats by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models -1:64 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™

 

 I am also going to include an 18’ cutter which I happen to have lying around and have decided to set up all four at the same time.

 

To deal with these kits a soft hands approach is essential and a good supply of mini sanding sticks. I make mine by sticking strips of  320 paper to  planking strips.

 

 I begin with the Pinnace.

 

First steps

 A grip block is glued beneath the building board to hold the assembly in a vice.

 The twelve frames fit loosely in the board slots, but they do need a little play to allow for aligning the  Pear keel piece.

 I found that Frame 1 at the bow required the slot sanding to allow fitment of the forward end of the keel.

 

Exert pressure at your peril!

 

I found it quite fiddly to get the keel to seat properly down on the frames. I  did quite a few dry runs before committing to glue, the bally frames kept jumping out of their slots.

7662

I found it helped to use Tamiya tape to hold the keel and frames in place as I progressed aft seating the keel.

 

The Launch proved much easier to attach frames and keel but in removing the keel from the fret the stern post just fell apart at the middle point, the curse of horizontal grain.

All is not lost tho’ because adding the stern board (L13)  helps secure the  re-glued part.

 

The Yawl went together well but care has to be taken with the bow fillers (Y13), careful easing before fitting is recommended.

I am also keeping a wary eye on the bow stem which as I recall from my previous build resulted in a new scratch part being made.

 

The Cutter (which does not form part of the kit allocation) is the Mark11 version. My previous build was the original version which lacked the finesse of the current model.

 As with the original I may well clinker plank the cutter as was the style.

7665(2)

An afternoons work gets the basics done and I will now operate a sort of production line to completion.

 

The system should reduce the overall build time for the set.

 

B.E.

29/07/2022

 

 

[DocRob]

You seem to start on the boats pretty relaxed B.E. I built my first one from Chris some weeks ago as an add on for my Duchess of Kingston. It's a great little kit, but as a beginner, I have to say its quite fiddly. Having the HMS Sphinx in my shelf and seeing that she sports three of them gives me the creeps and I will not add an extra one.
The most time consuming and unnerving  part on the boats build was to get rid of the wood glue on the inside of the hull, after removing the temporary spars. I will try to use less glue on future boat builds and wish you luck with yours.

 

Cheers Rob

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Rob, If you knew me, relaxed is not one of my personality traits.

If I appear so, it is probably born of previous experience of building these little beggars,  two scratch built at 1:64 and two of Chris's kits.

They are fiddly to make and bits can break with so much as a harsh look, and I can see that they would be a challenge for a novice builder, they're still a challenge for me now.

 

They do however, make up into fine little boats, and I'm quite a fan of them, so much so that only yesterday I ordered  the 36' Admirals Barge to add to my collection. I will then have the full set of types.

 

The only thing missing from Chris's line- up is a Longboat, and should he add one I will be up for that as well.

 

I had a peek at your cutter and she looks just fine.👍

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[DocRob]

Thank you B.E., I will look into your approach on the boats, to hopefully gain new ideas to lighten the burden for me with HMS Sphinx. 

 

Cheers Rob

[Kevin]

Stunning

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty – seven

 

Prepping and fairing the hull.

 I begin with the Pinnace

Preparation is everything and I take steps to reduce the risk of damage to the vulnerable areas of stem and stern.

Of course you may get away without this stuff but I’m a belt and braces sort of chap.

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I also apply a smear of pva beneath four of the tabs to help stabilise the frames in the building board. This is easily removed later.

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 A fresh supply of sanding sticks is made up for the fairing.

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The hull is stable on its board allowing me to handle it with confidence and the fairing doesn’t take that long.

 

The first plank is applied against the shoulder of the frames and fits into the stem rabbet.

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Heat is used to form the bow curve.

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This probably the easiest plank to fit except that getting the first plank to just hold in the stem rabbet whilst allowing space for the corresponding plank is tricky.

7752

My approach was to get the end sufficiently in to hold and then trim back in the rabbet from the other side for the corresponding plank.

I used a spot of ca for the bow end and first frame and pva thereafter.

7751

I am surprised that the length of the planking strips  only extends about 2mm beyond the  stern, leaving very little excess for minor adjustments or securing at the transom.

It also makes edge bending as a planking tool, more difficult.

7756

The support blocks used to stop lateral movement of the stern panel are trimmed to form clamps for the plank ends.

 

After the first strake the planks are tapered at the bow. When I say tapered this is a very slight taper – the overall width of the planks is less than 2mm so there is little to play with.

 

At this scale the finer points of hull planking such as tick strip marking don’t really apply, at least for me. The start of taper can be marked but beyond that it’s down to eye and trial fit.

When it comes to edge bending the strip are too small for easy clamping, but they are fine enough to work an edge bend using fingers, but it is a high risk activity.

 

At this point I have already had three strip breakages but fortunately there is a supply of 0.6mm fret from the Sphinx kit to make replacements.

7757

One has to get inventive when it comes to clamping on these bijou constructions.

7759

Four strakes fills the Stem rabbet, from this point on they will terminate against the stem/keel.

The stem is now more secure from the risk of breakage.

7760

With four strakes attached to the stern board it is now also secure.

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The hull is quite rigid now and can be removed (temporarily) from its building board if required.

 

I will now continue planking to completion.

 

B.E.

30/7/2022

 

[DocRob]

Great work on that tiny bugger B.E. . Like you, I used CA and glued the prepared plank to the bow with it. After drying, I bent the plank around the spars, applying small amounts of PVA onto the spars and more important, as the spars will be removed, between the planks and hold them in place until my finger clamps were hurting. for the last two stern spars, I used CA again for a faster bond.
I like the idea with the pegs as clamps, I will store that on my brain HD.

 

Cheers Rob

[Gahm]

So you are working now on your 'little fleet'. Knowing that you are a master in this field, too, I am really looking forward to following your progress and seeing the final result. Four at a time is quite a challenge! 🙂

 

Thomas

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Rob and Thomas.

 

Post One Hundred and Forty-eight

 

Completing the Pinnace planking.

 The hull shape of a Pinnace at the bow make it not the easiest  to plank.

From the fifth strake these tiny strips are subject to the whole gambit of manipulation. Edge bend, taper, bevel, and bow curve. (other builds may differ)

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The edge bend required on the fifth strake.

 

A couple of tips.

 It quickens the process if the wood is dampened when applying ca at the bow.

7783(2)

These Hairdresser sectioning clips are perfect for clamps on these small projects. They exert just the right amount of pressure and can be bent to suit the job in hand.

 

With six strakes completed I turn my attention to the Garboard strake.

 

Tricky things Garboards, how much to taper, where to terminate? 

7784

I start with a length of card to avoid spoiling my limited supply of 0.6mm  strip wood.

 

I am using slightly wider strips for the Garboard, but in practice it’s guesswork for me at the best, coupled with hope that the adjacent planking meets up.

The aim is to get any awkward final spiled planks to sit beneath the round of the hull.

 

7786

Here there are two strakes remaining, and the spacing is fairly even.

7787

The final spaces requiring spiled planks which will sit out of sight beneath the hull.

7789

Tamiya tape is used to template the final planks.

7798(2)

7791

As is my practice I refer to Gromit for an opinion.

7796(2)

How does it look Gromit – Ruff comes the reply.

 

Have faith Gromit it will all come good in the end.🤞 🤞

 

 

Onto the Launch.

 

 

B.E.

02/08/2022

 

[Glenn-UK]

Nice work, I still have the task of building the small boats to look forward (dread) to.

 

Glenn

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-nine

 

Building the Launch.

 Another four days and another hull planked.

 

The planking method described in the blurb is simplified with the aim of getting a smooth surface that will ultimately be painted, not a bad approach.

7804

If a varnish only finish is required then a more structured approach is  desirable, if not easy to achieve at this scale, as all shaping is mostly done by eye.

7814

Fitting the final spiled plank.

 

7817

The Launch feels easier to plank than the Pinnace, but even so it feels harder than my previous  small boat builds (Cutter and Yawl) of only 18 months ago.

7816

A case perhaps of increasing decrepitude and  decreasing  dexterity.

7821(2)

7815

The final fettlin’ of the hulls will be done once they are all planked.

7825(2)

7826(2)

Two down, two to go - onto the Yawl.

 

 

B.E.

06/08/2022

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Fifty

 

Building the Yawl.

 Having built the Yawl before I am curious how this second bite of the cherry will turn out.

0627

I was quite pleased with the result of my first effort which I also rigged and added sails.

 

Two issues affected my first build, the delicate stem snapped, as did the stern transom very early in the build which necessitated some scratch replacement work.

7829

I have taken precautions this time around to hopefully avoid that situation.

Support pieces have been added to the hull constructions of all the boats.

 

7831

 Note that a temporary brace is used to hold  the transom in place opposite the first strake. The pressure of gluing against the transom can easily push this delicate area out of true, or worse.

7833

The first strake is fitted, using heat only to  retain the bow curve, so far so good.

7835

....................... and it was all going so well!

7837

Despite my best efforts to protect the bow stem, it again detached at the very same point on as my first build of the Yawl.

 

I know from previous experience that glue won’t hold it against the lateral pressure of fitting the bow planks.

 

This is a weakness in the design of the yawl, a combination of lateral grain coupled with the very fine stem pieces created by the rabbet, almost guarantee a fail, obviously in my case.

 

Feeling somewhat miffed, it’s back to the drawing board  to scratch a new stem.

 

 

B.E.

07/08/2022

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Truly delicate work, B.E.  I love that idea to use sectioning clips for clamps.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Fifty-one

 

The Yawl saga continues.

 With a replacement stem part made from some 1mm fret, (vertical grain pattern essential), planking recommences.

 

For anyone interested the ‘how to’ of this repair it can be found  in the log details of my first Yawl build.

 

18th c Ships boats by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models -1:64 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™

 

7848(2)

I’m not sure what could be done do to strengthen this weak point, reduce the size of the rabbet a little, my replacement rabbet was slightly narrower. Perhaps increase the aft side of the stem with a slave tab that could later be removed once the planking secures the stem.

 I don’t find it that difficult to make a replacement stem, but beginners may find it more daunting.

7850(2)

With the first three strakes fitted the stem is now stable.

 

On with the show.

 

 

B.E.

08/08/2022

 

[hollowneck]

15 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

but beginners may find it more daunting.

B.E., your Herculean (and sometimes Sisyphean) efforts with these...  little boats ...are to be applauded. 👏

As you may recall, I checked-out on attempting to make any of these small boats and went for scratching a "custom," Chris' 3D-printed, clinker boat. You, my MSW friend, are also a master of understatement.

[Blue Ensign]

Ha, Ha, thank you Ron,

 

Unlike Sisyphean I at least have the option to stop, and I may well take a break once I have completed the ‘official’ allocation.

 

When my resolve starts to flag with the seemingly endless task of planking these little beggars, I think of James, tasked to complete whatever arrives from the dark Forest of Dean, and to a standard demanded by the Gods. Any failure means the task is repeated, any success and the reward is more of the same.

 

I then feel much  better.😉

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

14 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

When my resolve starts to flag with the seemingly endless task of planking these little beggars, I think of James, tasked to complete whatever arrives from the dark Forest of Dean, and to a standard demanded by the Gods. Any failure means the task is repeated, any success and the reward is more of the same.

 

I then feel much  better.😉

🤣🤣🤣 ...James' purgatory will be documented in The Poor James' Almanac.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Fifty-two

 

Yawl – planking completion

 After four days the Yawl planking is completed.

Notwithstanding the stem issue, and that I have built this before, I think the Yawl is the easiest of the three to plank.

7855(2)

7853

A relatively even line for the final planks.

I did tweak the Garboard planks a little  to create a more even  final plank.

7857

A guide-line is marked on Tamiya tape to template the spiled plank.

7859

This is cut from wider 0.6mm strip.

7860

It’s then just a question of slowly fining down to fit the space.

7862

7868

7874(2)

7872(2)

7870(2)

With the three ‘official’ boats  planked I have decided to defer completing the cutter which I will lapstrake.

 

I can now move onto the more interesting aspect for me, of  fitting out the boats, starting with the Pinnace.

 

It has taken around 14 days to  get to this stage, but feels a lot longer.

Despite the frustrations of building these bijou models I still think they offer the most authentic representations of ships boats at this scale.

 

B.E.

11/08/2022

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

I still have this task to look forward to. As always you make it look easy.

[Gahm]

These are really nice looking boats, B.E.! They will complement your Sphinx model beautifully!

 

Thomas

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Glenn and Thomas.

@ Glenn – it certainly doesn’t feel a easy, even tho’ I’ve done a few.

@ Thomas – I surely hope so, but there’s a way to go before I can feel relaxed that they pass muster.

 

Post one Hundred and Fifty-three.

 Fitting out the boats

 Pinnace. – early stages.

The first task is to twist the supporting frames away from the hull with pliers.

This always feels counter intuitive to me with thoughts of the planking disassembling.

Have faith, it doesn’t happen, but it always leaves me wondering why.🤔

 

At this point the hull is very delicate and any pressure to the topsides must be avoided.

7875

Thee task of cleaning up the internal hull looks rather daunting, but using a combination of micro chisels, and slightly dampening the glue marks within the hull, they are removed. This is a fairly slow and delicate business.

Fortunately, there are areas on the Pinnace that will ultimately be covered by the false ribs, Bow deck, stern sheets, and floor decking. The hidden areas I paint with dilute pva to add strength to the hull planking.

 

Some of the planking has gone almost transparent thin, and in these areas I apply a diluted pva/ pear dust combo which is then smoothed off.

 

Fitting the ribs is the next task.

7879

I use 6mm Tamiya tape for spacing, which has the added benefit of supporting the hull planking and the vulnerable top strake.

 

Once these are in place the hull becomes much stronger.

7881

With the ribs in place the stringers that support the thwarts are fitted next.

7884

These are fitted 3mm below the top-line of the hull and to this end  a simple jig is made to ensure uniform marking.

7885

With one side glued into place, the opposite stringer is temporarily clamped to check levels.

7888

Once satisfied the stringer can be glued into place.

7893

7894

… but before the glue sets hard, the thwart levels are eyed from all angles.

7895

A copy of the  Pinnace plan is taken as a template for the thwart positioning when I reach that stage.

 

There is still some work to do on the hull,  a spot more of internal cleaning and minor filling, but the hull is now more robust for handling.

 

 

B.E.

13/08/2022

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and fifty-four

 

Fitting out the Pinnace – Part two

 

Decking and gratings

 These take the form of brass etch which I last used on my previous Yawl build.

 Chemical blackening after  scrub with fine wire wool, and an acetone dip, helps provide a key for the paint.

7896

Base coat of Burnt umber, followed by Ochre Brown, followed by lighter shades of ochre.

 I am using Vallejo paints throughout.

7898

Insitu, I thought the colour tone looked too strong against the Pearwood.

 

7900

I then added a  further coats using White/grey  tinted with  a spot of Ochre brown.

7902

I prefer the paler tone, but not quite there yet.

 

I next fitted the wales using the last two planking strips of the provided set.

7908

These were painted Black/grey as on the main model.

7910

Sorry about my work bench, it invariably gets covered with stuff until I reach the point where I can’t find the last thing I put down. At that point I have to have a gtu, I’m close to that point now.

 

This is a fairly plain version of a Pinnace but I wanted it to reflect the main model in terms of its colouring and decoration.

7915

I added a decorative frieze along the Topsides above the wale, but intend to leave as much of a varnish finish as I can.

7913

Fitting the Sternsheets which come as a combined unit took a little careful fettlin’ to get them to sit down at the correct level within the hull.

7917

A final application of sand yellow weathering powder brings the colour tone of the  decking up a little.

7920

Using scale figures helps to ensure that the Sternsheets are at the right level.

7921

I am pleased to see they are a perfect fit for the Sternsheets.

 

Work will now continue to add detail to the sternsheets, and attend to areas requiring a little more cleaning up as revealed by the macros.

 

B.E.

15/08/2022

 

[Gahm]

Fantastic progress! This looks realy nice!

 

Thomas

[hollowneck]

Very nice,B.E. Clever to use a couple of Chris’ scale figures to get the correct height at the stern. I love that your work surface resembles mine. I sneezed at my bench today and several tiny rigging hooks instantly disappeared into the morass of bits n’ pieces, tools, etc…it’s good that there are plenty more on the P/E frets! 

Edited August 16, 2022 by hollowneck
Added text

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Thomas and Ron.

@ Ron - I use scale figures for all sort of things, thwart height as above, but  one of my most useful is  old Tom who checks my footrope drop and is also very adept at Ratline scrambling.

Not that he's needed on my current build.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and fify-five

 

Fitting out the Pinnace – Part three

 As was the practise with Pinnaces I lined the sternsheet area and added a little extra detail. The bow deck area was also lined.

7935

Before the thwarts are added the inboard surfaces are treated with W-O-P

7936

Still not entirely happy with the decking colour against the thwarts, I dry brush using a mix of Ochre Brown and Burnt umber.

 

The thwarts can be quite fiddly to fit, getting the lengths just right, ensuring they are all parallel to each other, and that the spacing is even.

7929

I use a plan template to assist this and cut temporary thwarts to determine the lengths.

7941

Temporary fit of the thwarts.

7939

I think the tone of the deck boards now looks better against the pearwood.

 

With the thwarts fitted, the last major test is the Gunwales.

These are very fine pieces and warrant careful handling.

 

One small puzzlement for me is that Pinnaces were usually rowed single banked which means the oarlocks and thole pins were offset port and starboard relative to the thwarts.

7950

The kit version  has them positioned for double banking.

 Any modification would require re-making the gunwales which I doubt I could achieve with the fineness of scale of the laser cut kit parts.

7956

Fitting the Gunwales  is a tricky business, I dampened the bow ends to  slightly modify the curve to suit the model, and I used ca to progressively glue the strip along the hull.

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As a pre-caution I did make a template of the gunwales lest  sod’s law came into play and I was forced into scratching replacements.

 

Despite my fears the gunwales went on without a sharp rise in my tension level.

 

The next post should see the completion of the Pinnace.

 

 B.E.

18/08/22

 

 

[glbarlow]

The Sphinx airwaves are a bit crowded these days, nice to see yours is coming along. I have no patience for ships boats, the four I made for Vanguard were such an ordeal. Yours look very natural with the painting choices and well put together. I sometimes think the “insides” of these things are more of a challenge than the ship.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn,

 They are tricky little beggars as you no doubt know, but the boats represent £85.00  of the cost of the kit, and besides I can’t resist the challenge.

 Fitting out is a time consuming business but there is a  satisfaction to be had in achieving a half way decent finish, and I do like the look of a boat on a model ship.

 I’m not sure about all three sitting on the Sphinx skids on a Navy Board style build such as mine, but I will try the Pinnace out.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.