HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48

[glbarlow]

On 4/9/2023 at 1:42 AM, Kevin said:

how a kit should go together

Thanks Kevin, Chuck makes that part a lot easier with his design. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 4:13 AM, JpR62 said:

Always so precise and perfect! And full of good advice.

Thank you Jean Paul for saying so, I do try to share what I’ve learned, not sure how good it is but I try. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 8:18 AM, scrubbyj427 said:

must have been a tool and dye maker in a previous life,

Thanks for the kind words. My great grandfather was a stone cutter. He built a stone wall along a Kentucky highway famous for its many horse farms. The wall was built without any mortar, just the fit of the rocks. It still stands today and a historical landmark, they wouldn’t move it when they widened the road. Despite state sponsored effort no one knows how to duplicate it. So maybe I inherited some small part of that skill. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 9:34 AM, James G said:

helping all of us

Thanks Jim, I appreciate the comment and glad I can help as I’ve been helped. 
 

19 hours ago, westwood said:

starting to shape all those eyelet and ring bolts

Thank you Dusan. I just go into to a zone, cut, bend, shape, cut, bend, shape….so fun.  I still have so many to go.  It’s worth it though, helps bring life and realism to our models. 

[glbarlow]

The Port Lids

 

Well that was fun. You’d think making ten little more or less square pieces of wood would be easy, not so muck I discovered. 

 

First off, I sure wish I’d set aside the same pieces of planking used above the wales so long ago to now match up with the ports. As it was I spent a ridiculous amount of time sorting through my bin of ¼ AYC strips, having done that I only got so close. Anyway here’s what I did:

The first step, after the long and arduous process of trying, and I emphasize trying, to match wood to the hull I edge glued with PVA these little squares, each matched up to their future home. The extra size allowed me to match up the plank alignment and angles, different from port to port.

There are undoubtedly many carpenter like ways to proceed from there, I know none of those. I’ve have however grown confident in the extremely fine and accurate edge, size, and angles I can achieve with a delicate touch on my Byrnes Sander. With a light touch I micro-milimetered my way to the right size, shape, and plank alignment. It’s was a slow process but an accurate one. I’m sure seasoned wood workers laugh. It didn’t take long to get a rhythm and feel for how much and where to sand, after the first couple the rest just took patience.

Time for a little production run. My double sided tape held them in place for multiple coats of WOP, I had to catch them up to the hull planking in an ongoing effort to match them up.

 

I’ve noticed how my Cheerful’s hull turned a more golden color over the course of a year or more with indirect sunlight, so I thought I’d try to speed up the aging process by placing them in a window with direct afternoon sun. It seemed a dumb idea, but I had to put them somewhere. It actually sort of worked a little bit, it helped to have several days of warm Texas sunshine.

They started here.

The “aging” process got them here, it was worth all those coats of WOP and Texas sun, at least so I think. They will continue to age and blend in, this is a nice start.

First my thanks to @Gregory who was kind enough to provide me with 1/16th brass strips. However, the very day I was going to start on the hinges @Chuck announced his Winchelsea hinges made from a magical new material. I ordered them on the first morning they were available. So with apologies to Gregory and all my fellow Winchelsea builders who labored to make metal hinges…I didn’t. I didn’t have to try to make twenty identical things from a strip of metal. The new material looks about as metal as needs be and they’re absolutely uniform. So yay.

I still had some work to do. I made up eyebolts from 28 gauge wire using a smaller drill bit for shaping. Same with the 24 gauge split rings, also on a smaller bit than those on the deck and bulwarks. 

Whenever I have to do a lot of the same thing the first thing I do is create a jig. These two are made from a piece of cherry I had, maybe not the best use for such nice wood but it had to hold an edge for the mill to cut a groove, plus a reverse groove for the top, and another to make it reversible for the same fit on the lid’s other side. The lid slides under the jig 3mm from the edge, the hinge lays tight against the jig’s upper half with it’s top hitting the top groove cut the distance needed to match up to the hull mounted portion of the hinge. Both the port and jig are held firmly to the mat with, you guessed it, double sided tape, nothing moved as I laid the hinge in with tweezers and a gentle coat of CA onto the lid. 19 more times and then all hinges are in the same place and the same distance from the top and bottom.

 

The second jig, used separately after the first, has a slot milled under the leading edge, it’s placed flush against the bottom and lines up the spot to drill the hole through the hinge for the eyebolt and split ring, twenty holes later and we’re done.

 

I’m much happier with these than anything I could have made, so thanks Chuck for the hinges and for not announcing these two weeks after I’d fumbled about with metal.

Sometimes though I have to take a step backwards, in this case several steps backwards to get the result I wanted. The moulding cut through the top of the stern port on my model, as a result the hinges had to be cut into the molding. This went fairly smoothly on the port side but I didn’t like the cut I’d made on the starboard port. So to do it right I had to remove the moulding and fabricate a new piece between the hinges using the extra moulding in my Chapter 3 parts bag. With the judicious application of acetone while protecting the hull the moulding came off. In the process a small part of the frieze tore. Can’t have that so then with the judicious use of denatured alcohol I removed a section of the frieze, I lots of leftover sections ready to go. At that point I stopped for the night and consumed a different form of alcohol.

The next morning I was back to where I started, plus the hinges. A lot of work but worth the result.

I plan to put these three lids and their port side counterparts away until later in the build, before doing that I made sure I could complete the hinge with wire. The bow and stern post port are closed and don’t need the wire, especially with the tight fit of Chuck’s design.

With that my port lids are complete. I wouldn’t have guessed these would have taken me as long as they did, or that I’d write a post about lids as long as this one. I’m content with the time it took to make them relatively uniform and sorta match the hull, and kinda be a tight fit, and have the planking more or less match the plank lines of the hull at each port.

 

While the work isn’t complex it is complicated to make it happen, or at least it was for me. Judging by the high quality lids and hinges of other Winchelsea builders maybe I just made it harder than it needed to be.

 

On to the rest of chapter 5.  As always thanks for stopping by and especially for your likes and comments.

 

Edited April 29, 2023 by glbarlow

[Steve20]

A lot of effort there and the results are really good.

[Gregory]

Those hinges do look great!  There was a time when making them yourself would have far surpassed anything available aftermarket, but not anymore.

[DelF]

Such precision! Beautiful results as always.

[glbarlow]

On 4/29/2023 at 7:53 AM, Steve20 said:

A lot of effort there

Yes it was, or at least I made it so. Thank you!

 

On 4/29/2023 at 8:55 AM, Gregory said:

Those hinges do look great!

Thank you, and thanks again for the 1/16th brass strips. I will still find a good use for them.

 

6 hours ago, DelF said:

Such precision!

Or OCD. Thanks Derek!

[Rustyj]

Well done Glenn but I think you missed out on the wonderful experience of shaping the hinges from brass! 😂

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, Rustyj said:

you missed out on the wonderful experience of shaping the hinges

Yes…yes I did 😊😁😂

[FrankWouts]

That's looking really good and beautiful Glenn! Well done!
Frank.

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

That's looking really good

Thanks Frank. 

[glbarlow]

Cheeks, Hair brackets, Bolsters, & Wash Can’t.

 

We decided to sell our lake house. Between that decision, the work we did to prep it for sale, it being sold and then the work to clear it for the buyers plus completely re-organizing our garage while we were at it, six weeks disappeared. Very little build time during all that, this section of Chapter 5 seem to take forever as a result.

 

There are a few very appropriate appropriate quotes from Chuck’s monograph in this section, here is the first: “this is tricky work so take your time and try not to get frustrated.”

 

Of course I counted. 46 distinct parts including the printed friezes make up this section all confined to the bow and stem. These are about 3-6 parts in an average kit, even if the kit includes them at all. A good time was had by all. It is worth it for the detailed realism of the result. 

 

I also admit to starting over more than once and taking advantage of Chuck’s generous offer for replacement parts. In some instance because I broke it, in others I just didn’t like what I had. I discovered, eventually, this is a section I could over-optimize time and again. At some point I needed to declare victory and move on.

It started with the paper template. The first challenge is making sure the spacing between the cheeks is correct for the bolsters, the lower hair brackets align with the feet of the figure head, the upper hair bracket aligns with the top of the stem, in short a lot of planning before anything goes on the ship.  My little spacers helped a little to make sure I was off to a good start. As I build I scratch into both the back of the thing to be added and the place where it goes to ensure good glue adhesion through the coats of WOP.

Also testing the bolster layer to fit between helps (it needed sanding later), as does knowing the fit for the upper cheek is along the top of the black strake, this also defines the location of the bottom strake. Piece of cake so far right.

That and double sided tape to check and recheck.

Then a glue stick, a sharp knife, and a very thin putty blade to add the printed frieze after they were cut and sprayed with fixative. I owe this cutting to my wife. Multiple times she pulled out her scissors to do what I couldn’t, cut them with no white showing to then be glued to the cheeks and hair brackets. Some do this after the work is glued on, my choice was to apply the frieze before gluing the work to the ship.

I can’t say it any better than the instructions in the monograph: “Now all of this always looks easier than it actually is. You will need to get in touch with our creative side here a bit. Each of these pieces will need some shaping and testing.....and repeat many many times the shaping and testing.” In case it’s that wasn’t clear…many, many times.

My photos are a bit out of sync based on my applying, then removing a couple of the cheeks. Yes this can be done with a very deep breath and the managed application of acetone with everything surrounding taped off, and even the tape folded to funnel the excess Acetone away. Did I mention the deep breath part. I did this twice, the patient lived.

 

Eventually though I had the three layers of the beneath the bolsters added and proceeded to drill in the hawse holes at the very upper angle required. first with a pilot hole with a small bit, then a larger bit, one more still larger bit, finished off with a soft edged round file.

My choice for finishing the hawse holes, with the several layers of wood involved to the deck wound up pretty deep, was to use Admiralty Paints Ironwood Black - followed by O’Brien’s Grungy Gray weathering powder - carefully applied.

The bolster started as a straight piece of 1/8th wood. It’s a process. First I filed, sanded, scraped the inside curve to fit the curve of the layered wood it sits on above the lower cheek, including the bottom for the angle of the cheek it sits on - no small task done very slowly. Shape and test…then do that again many many times, then match the outer side to that inner curve, more sanding and scraping, and finally fully rounding the top edges.

Before gluing it in place I added the scroll work. Another bit of finesse filling and sanding. I had to sand micro-millimeters to get a fit between the cheeks and and clear the figurehead’s foot. I was fortunate not to have to remove any portion of it - just make four sides a little thinner. 

I added these little stick-on small furniture pads to some clamps so to not mar the finish of the bolsters, they worked great.

Finally the wash cants. A lot of work to file the back edges to fit the bow and stem, then the front edge to a knife point. After painting them black they are barely visible installed, but I know they are there, so yay.

 

And with that a time consuming process of sand, test, fit, slowly do it all again is complete. Here are a few photos. I feel bad because I had to take a sizable chunk out of the figurehead’s shoulder and back for a reasonable fit. I doubt he’ll ever be able to play the mandolin again.

As always, thank you for stopping by. And if you are this time thank you for remembering I’m here - it’s been a while. Your likes and especially your comments are always appreciated.

 

A few last steps to complete Chapter 5, so here I go with that. 

Edited May 28, 2023 by glbarlow

[westwood]

Excellent Glenn, congratulations, you've made good progress.
And thank you for the detailed description and photo documentation.
I will be inspired.

[Thistle17]

Your deliberate and informative sharing has become an invaluable reference for all of us. And I might add your willingness to share set backs as well as successes is apppreciated. I can't tell you the number of "do overs" I have experienced that have slowed progress and dampened enthusiansim. So when I observe your end result I am encouraged to press on.

 

I get the same encouragement from Bob Emser (The Art of Boat Building) by oserving his methods of work. Don't know how to pay you any better a compliment!

 

Joe

[Dave_E]

51 minutes ago, Thistle17 said:

Your deliberate and informative sharing has become an invaluable reference for all of us. And I might add your willingness to share set backs as well as successes is apppreciated. I can't tell you the number of "do overs" I have experienced that have slowed progress and dampened enthusiansim. So when I observe your end result I am encouraged to press on.

 

I get the same encouragement from Bob Emser (The Art of Boat Building) by oserving his methods of work. Don't know how to pay you any better a compliment!

 

Joe

Well said Joe! 👍

[glbarlow]

15 hours ago, westwood said:

thank you for the detailed description and photo documentation.

Thank you, I hope it helps.

 

2 hours ago, Thistle17 said:

Your deliberate and informative sharing has become an invaluable reference for all of us. And I might add your willingness to share set backs as well

Thanks Joe. I always like to share the good and the bad, mostly because the bad usually gets back to good. Sometimes you see logs with nothing but perfect results and wonder how they do things so well.  I get there, but sometimes not on the first try. That's why I love the hobby and working with wood. Generally there is a solution to every problem, sometimes that involves "deconstruction" to get where I want to go. I don't know Bob's work, but I'm glad to be in his company. More importantly I'm glad I can be of help to your and your building. 

 

1 hour ago, Dave_E said:

Well said Joe! 👍

It was well said, thanks Dave.

[Thistle17]

Glenn tune into Emser on You Tube you will see what grabs me about him!

 

Joe

[James G]

Beautiful work Glenn! Sounds like you’ve certainly been busy with other priorities. I get that! Now that the summer season is here we’re outside constantly. My bench time is nonexistent. All good though…fall will be here before we know it! 😆

[Nunnehi (Don)]

She looks great, Glen - beautiful work!

 

Don

[dvm27]

Very nice work Glen!

 

And I agree that The Art of Boat Building and Tally Ho should be required viewing for all model shipwrights.

[glbarlow]

Chapter 5 is Complete

 

After 3 months that included assorted other distractions I’ve completed chapter 5, only seven more to go.

Nothing new to report but thought I’d add a few photos summarizing this long bold chapter of work. One of my distractions is a new camera, photography being my other hobby. I just got it so thought I’d give it a try instead of my usual iPhone work, still figuring it out. Nothing fancy with the lighting other than moving my work lights around and messing with shading and white balance for different affects - not work I'd put on my website, but fun.

First up is the rudder. It is now safely tucked back into my finished work cabinet until I permanently attach it near the end of the build, otherwise I’m sure I’d find a way to knock it off.

The captain’s cabin benches and rudder house followed. As I noted earlier, accurate or not I added my own personal touch to the cabin floor with cherry and boxwood.

Then the ship’s ladder’s, which naturally are a bit hard to photograph. These are designed so nicely and laser cut in boxwood, a step up from my scratch built ladders on Cheerful.

To avoid the port lids for a while longer in addition to shaping and adding cleats to the bulwarks I also made all and added all the eyebolts and rings for the 28 ports. You get pretty good at bending and cutting wire once you do it for a while.  I’ve learned to enjoy making these, just crank the music up and zone out with the pliers and flush cutters.

The ports took me a while, partially because while only ten are needed, I made … well, more than ten. There’s a lot that goes into making these little not-squares. In the end I’d like to say they were fun to make, as I said, I’d like to say…

The cheeks and hair brackets are another of the many things I’ve had to opportunity to do more than once, I’m probably a broken record on this. Someday I’ll do something right the first time and totally surprise myself. They are a pretty cool feature of the ship and really stand out from anything else I’ve done. From these macro photos I can see a few things to go back to try improving. I did learn here that there is no end to the opportunity to over-optimize.

The hawse holes - ok there is one thing I got right the first time, not much chance for a re-do on those so yay me. The bolsters are also something that nicely stands out. There is some sanding, ok a lot of sanding, involved to turn a flat square rectangle into a curved not flat bolster.

And finally more sanding to shape the two pieces of the bow knee into one. Even though it eventually won’t be seen under the forecastle deck, it doesn’t take away my obsession to make it look as good as I can.

 

Chapter 5 was everything I’d want and enjoy. A significant challenge and lots of variety from the rudder to the knee. Good Times!

Now I have lots of cannon to make and mix that up with building the stove and capstan. The journey continues.

Edited June 13, 2023 by glbarlow

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Glenn! Stunning job on chapter 5!

[glbarlow]

6 minutes ago, scrubbyj427 said:

chapter 5!

Thank you, yours is one of those I follow for inspiration.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Pure eye candy Glenn, thanks for posting those  photos of your very fine work.

Hard to pick out something for special mention, but but the result you've achieved with those gunport lids is top notch. No leaks through those ports.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

result you've achieved with those gunport lids

Thanks BE, kind of you to say so. Even though the forward three will be mounted open eventually I wanted them to all fit and match the run of the planks correctly. It took a try or two. 

[Rustyj]

Beautiful work on chapter 5 Glenn. 

[glbarlow]

39 minutes ago, Rustyj said:

chapter 5

Thanks Rusty. I appreciate your saying so. 

[Thistle17]

You set the bar quite high Glenn. And I must compliment your photography once again. It compliments your model work so well.

Joe

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Thistle17 said:

must compliment your photography

Thanks Joe, I appreciate your saying so. The new camera is a fun bit of technology. Should I stay inside and work on the model or go outside and shoot photos, hard to choose😊

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Beautiful work, Glen, I’m really enjoying following your build!

 

Don

[glbarlow]

30 minutes ago, Nunnehi (Don) said:

enjoying following your build!

Thanks Don. I’m enjoying following yours as well.