HO trains and layouts

[popeye the sailor]

this is a push........the kind I like    I think I made enough sense with the wood panels.......time to get them on the frame now that the windows and such are cut out.  as mentioned,  I made a few goofs,  so I'll remedy this by making exterior frames.  some of the sheets didn't go the full span of the wall,  so I added some 1/8 pieces,  so I'd have something to glue to. we start with the back wall.

the pieces I added can be seen here......they won't impact the window installation.  this side does not go all the way to the top.......they mention this in the instructions.

the other piece was added to the back wall......now on to the side wall.  this wall overlaps the back wall.  personally,  I thought the ground floor windows were a bit low,  especially since I allowed the 1/8 for the doors.........but there are instances where the windows are lower {seen on more modern buildings}.  foundation-wise.......they have stuff out there that will imitate stone,  cement.........just about anything you want.  I'm not sure of the future,  but this is screaming dio  ....we'll have to see.

big jump here.......one side is done and the other side is getting the second half of it's exterior siding {I'm almost beside myself!  }

keeping the corners flush......very important.  I have some of the small Plastruct angle stock I was going to use as corner molding,  but I can't seem to find it..........this will make another pilgrimage to Hobby Lobby more important!  I'll just couple it with a trip to Home Depot or Wal Mart and I can get it past the budget director.

the front is on now........I started to look at the upper part.  I like the metal trusses,  but between the flash and that I noticed some deformities,  I'd be more inclined to make them out of wood strip.  another thing I see,  is there is nothing to anchor them to the wall.  the panels for the upper face drop down,  but not all the way to the cross beams below the roof line.......you may see them,  but I made marks there,  where the face panels go down to.

 

the skeletal in no way impacts the window placements.  where I marked out the line........cross beams were added,  and the upper fascia was put on.

 

the construction so far has been great........I like how sturdy it is,  and in spite of the vagueness of the instructions,  not terribly tough to figure out.  I think Gibbs is fuss'in to go out.........and I have a mission.  the admiral is thumbing through bank stuff........we're getting another car {we don't want to, but I think it's time,  before a house falls on it  }  more on this project soon  

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

I finally took the B&M snow plow out of the closet.......this was my early stab at a diorama

for some reason {I didn't use flash},  they came out kinda dark.  I was just going to do a bit of scenery and a scratch built structure or two,  signs,  and other railroad bits.  this structure kinda changed that,  causing me to think larger.   that's where I am on the snow plow.......I was working on the wings.

 

I had gone to Hobby Town to get the trucks and couplers.  I even have the slips........these are Bettendorf trucks.

whether it's my goof or what,  the front trucks don't have the ability to turn too tight a radius.

I had to redo the cupola.....broken or misshapen parts.......I would have to look in the old log on her to recall

it was 2011 when I got it.......not much was done.  it was fun getting her to this point.  I do have a tool to make grab irons........know  I have a picture of it somewhere.  I even dug out the decals I bought for her.  for a chuckle,  I even put the military train car on the track.......that includes a ramp / platform, so there's something else to plan for.

 

before I forget.......my excursion didn't pan out much......Hobby Lobby is limited on what they carry for plastruct.  I'll have to do the corner molding from scratch,  unless I can go to Hobby Town.......I'm sure they have more.

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by popeye the sailor

[Canute]

Denis, you could file off the outside detail on the front truck to get more swing. I seem to remember the Walthers plastic version of this plow has you remove the outside details. Our model trucks are way too wide with their outside dimensions. Model track radii are way tighter than the real world. Most folks just park the plow as a scenery component in their dioramas. Our dioramas usually model warm weather months, so the plows and flanger cars aren't being used.

[popeye the sailor]

that's what I was planning to do,  hence the split track.   I'm going to order a bumper stop for it,  along with other bits of scenery.   another friend suggested I get a 'dummy' loco and have it pulling a couple other cars.   now that there is a couple of larger buildings in the picture,  I'm going to have to widen the diorama.   it's OK.........now I can add more   

 

haven't done much to the structure......want to get the exterior,  windows,  and doors painted first without the roofs on.  I did go out and look for 1/64 basswood,  but there wasn't any.  I think Hobby Lobby is becoming unreliable for wood stuff.  I got some 1/32 flat stock instead.......no thicker than the supplied wood panels.   I also ordered some windows to experiment with........I do have a future project to think about    I'm not enthused about the metal trusses either......I may just frame the roofs out in wood.   they are fragile........broke one trying to clean off the flash {not to the point I can't use it}. 

[popeye the sailor]

I got a chance during the past week to work on this project,  but time wasn't on my side to present it.   as mentioned,  I got to paint the exterior of the boiler house.  to clear this up { I was confused too}  the larger structure is the boiler house......the smaller brick building is the power house.  as said,  I used the same green that I used on the PT boat.

 

I'm kinda debating whether I want to do floors in it.  I decided to do the single smoke stack .......glued the four sides together.

I gave it a bottom.......cut them from scratch,  since the supplied pieces didn't fit.  the top wasn't flush,  so I added another piece on the top.

the windows took some time to clean up......I still need to paint them.   debating what color to paint them..........white to me,  seems kinda residential,  don't you agree?!?!    the smoke stack will fit on the back wall.....the one facing you in the above picture.  the instructions are pretty vague on the piping,  so research is under way.

[popeye the sailor]

I did some work during my work week.........surprisingly {wonders never cease}.  I need to fit the rest of the windows,  so I can paint the entire lot.  still flip flopp'in on the color,  so while I was cutting the windows out of the powerhouse walls,  I can bat it around in my head.  the templates that I cut out don't match the size of the wall billets,  which the outer wall is already done in a brick motif.  I decided not to downsize the overall size of the building,  but drop the height..........about 10 mm should be good.   I was also going to leave the walls and scratch build the eaves and pitched roof,  but I ended up pitching the roof using this 10 mm spec,  leaving enough to box in the soffits.  the back wall has no windows........the side walls are identical......only the front wall has a door {so much for fire codes}.  I thought I had taken some pictures of the assembly.....but I thought wrong.

 

the corners will have moldings to hide the bare wood.......I painted up some .5 x 3 mm strip stock to cover them.   wish I had 2 mm,  but this is all I got at this point in time.  I added some form of framing inside to help strengthen the structure.  with all the windows and doors cut and delegated,  I can paint them........I went with a dark gray.

the kit did not supply anything for the glass,  so now the question is,  whether to use that tinted cello I have on hand,  or use clear stuff {which I also have plenty}.  I find that today's clear product packaging does a great deed to keep me well stocked {and in different thicknesses too}.  I also ordered an assortment of windows from Micro Mark, produced by Tichy.......I'll show you what they look like in the next update......they are pretty cool  unlike the boiler house,  I decided to drop a floor in there for the second level.   this kinda forces my hand......now it is likely that I will do it for the boiler house.   the last thing I did before we had to go out again,  was to add the side sills for the rafters and A frames,  which will be likely from scratch as well.

hope to get more done.......I'm on the week end  

 

[popeye the sailor]

what the heck........no time like the present......right?!?!?    after I logged off,  I figured that it would take no time at all to take a few pictures.....I also have a picture of that tool I was tell'in you about.   I bought this as an assortment........I was going to see if they would work with this project,  but I've pulled the trigger on the supplied windows and doors.  so I'll save these for other projects {the mind of a pack rat  }  the scary part is..........I DO have something in mind.........I just have to get started on it ***huge rabbit hole***   the assortment comes as ten packs of twelve......come complete with the clear glazing and shades { for all you Peter Noone fans  }

 

 

 

they have a larger set too.......I think over 200 pieces......but I think you have to order the glazing separately.  heck......who knows......I may even build my OWN house    we'll see what happens!

 

about the tool........this was given to me a while back.  I had no idea what the heck it was.  when I started working on the PT boat,  I used it to make a couple handles..........and that's when it hit me.  it's use is to make the bends for grab Iron handles and brass railings.  loosen the knob and position the brass to whatever step you need...tighten and bend away  

another thing to add to the project,  is that I've saved all the cut outs from the larger windows.  I figured they would make great chimneys.  what the Grabhandler is sitting on,  is a piece of artist's poster board.......to keep me from hacking up the table.  I saw that was happening and I came up with this stuff that was in the closet gathering dust.   forgot why I bought it.......

I see a large mat in my future..........

 

[Canute]

Denis, that's pretty typical with those older kits. Bracing isn't included and some joints are butt joints. I keep a supply of balsa and basswood strips handy, along with some thicker Evergreen strips. I think the grey will be fine on your windows. I'm not a fan of those metal windows these folks used in these kits. Squaring up the castings is tedious. Fitting them into the window and door openings is, too. Yours look like they are fitting well.

Edited October 14, 2021 by Canute

[popeye the sailor]

thanks all......so far this has been fun.......just like when I started to work on the snow plow.  it was new.....something I had never tried before.  this coming from a guy that felt daunted with wooden ships.......go figure    now I can safely say and suggest to try thing you've never done before.  sure you'll make mistakes.......but you get the same ups and downs with mediums your familiar with.  don't you?

 

I hear ya Ken.......I don't think there's a kit made,  that some aspect or another isn't scratch built or changed to make things easier.  I don't have to get too crazy with the roof framing.......as long as the roof sits well    the metal windows seem clumsy.......lord knows how many times I dropped them,  in trying to clean them up.  yea......I dunno,  white just seemed residential to me........darker colors means the cleaning lady doesn't have to fuss to much over the sills     I did the front of the power house last night.  I took a picture this morning,  and I noticed right away that the door was sticking out at the bottom.......arg!  I've adjusted it and now it fits flush.  

 

I filed around the casings before painting,  to flatten the tabs along the sides.  as I was fitting them in place,  I did some finish sanding to make them fit better.  to me......the templates were the biggest pain,  but how else are you to mark and center the cut outs?  you might not notice,  but because of the template,  the door opening was too tall and there was an 1/8 inch gap at the top.  I could have been creative and added a transom,  but you never see then on an exterior door.  so,  I added a piece to take up the space.   these openings came out better than the Boiler house.........since the exterior is brick,  there may not be a need for framing around the windows.  the thickness of the wall panels is around 1/16.........around the equivalent of 2 mm.   3 mm might be a little too wide........I will have to go smaller for the window frames {I will have to do them on the Boiler house}  I will try to get more done today,  but I got three tires to mount for the Toyota......juggle them around,  put on a new toilet seat,  and finish what I was doing in the garage.  the landlord's carpenters are back to reside the garage and put in a new window {I won't open that can 'o worms....I'm miffed enough about it}.  I'm hoping that the Morano will fit in there,  but I think it's too high.......might scrape the roof.  beat that........a 1950's garage trying to house a 2010  automobile.......the shape of things to come { I hear that song in my head }

 

oh.......before I forget....  the kit I ordered from oldmodelkits has shipped.......with any luck,  I will see it by Friday.  can't wait to show it to you  

[Canute]

Denis, you might look at installing those Tichy windows from the inside, so the frames don't show. When you look at brickwork windows, there aren't any fascia on the outside, just the wood/metal window frames themselves. Same for the doors. Hope it's not too late.

[thibaultron]

The boiler hose probably did not have a second floor "Floor". Likely the boiler was two stories high with walkways at the second floor level.

 

Nice build so far!

[popeye the sailor]

I think the tinted cello will work ........I had to show you!    this stuff I found one day while taking Gibbs out for a walk in the field by our house.  it's used for tint on automotive windows

how it got there.......I have no idea,  but I though I could find a use for it.....and I have.   a simple test shows that it doesn't take too much away from the interior......not that I plan to add anything in there. 

I had just fitted the top windows in the power house,  when I got the urge to check this out

after cleaning the cello,  the size was measured and strips were cut to fit the space.  one strip was cemented in place......I used CA on it

it looks pretty good.......but it will be darker when the roof is put on.   lighting could be added,  but that will mean that the interior would need to be fleshed out some.  now.....how deep down the rabbit hole do I want to go?

[popeye the sailor]

these are installed from the inside Ken........only the surrounding casing can be seen    glad I was correct in deciding not to add frames    I'm even happier that the window openings cut as well as they did!  these are also the supplied windows.......I had already cut the openings for the metal ones......I'd probably have trouble getting the Tichy ones to fit.  but as mentioned,  it's OK......I'll certainly be able to use the Tichy windows for another project {which I do have one in the wings   another thing I thought about was the corners.......this structure would really benefit from finding some of that brick  overlayment.  I could cut 2 mm strips and match up the pattern,  covering the corners over.......ahhhh.....but then there's the color match problem......  ...my head hurts! 

 

the boilers were located on the second floor Ron,  according to the back story at the beginning of the instructions.  there were chutes that moved the ash to the first floor for easier removal.......likely had grates in the fire boxes.  as is told,  they had three boilers in this particular building.  I've already thought of adding the boilers using large dowel that I have on hand.  I will have to look into how the 'fuel' was brought to the second floor to feed the boilers..........I'll see if I can find pictures of the interior of one of these,  and go from there.

 

the premise of this structure was the production of steam,  to power various aspects of the facility.  the power house used it to produce electricity.  to use one product to produce another,  is a very interesting premise  

Edited October 14, 2021 by popeye the sailor

[Old Collingwood]

Looking Great Denis  -  Rabbit Hole   - "Go On  - you know you want to"    I think you will be kicking yourself if  you dont.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Denis, some kind of internal or external bucket hoist for whatever the fuel.  A beam out of the top floor for hoisting up the fuel externally.

 

Many lumber mills used the wood scraps for fuel, since many were temporary and coal would be an added expense. Since this is a permanent facility, it might still burn scrap wood from the leftovers. The paper mill on the other side of Asheville burns scrap pulpwood rather than buying other fuels or using the local power.

[popeye the sailor]

that's debatable OC.........it's a pretty deep hole   

 

according to the description in the beginning of the instructions,  that's correct.......they used different things as a fuel source.  they supplied the power house with steam,  and they produced electricity.......quite a chain reaction    I'll definitely check it out   

 

I went a bit further with the structures........started to add floors to the boiler house.

 

also started to add the windows and doors to the boiler house...

 

the power house has all the windows done.......now to work on the roof.

 

didn't get much done today though.....errands..   I bought the tires for my car,  but I couldn't do them because the guys are here residing the garage,  so I hope to get them done next week {when I'm off again}.  I'm happy to report that the order I had placed a while ago arrived this afternoon.   for 1:72,  it's a fairly large model.

the sprues were still in their plastic bags......originally produced in 1975.........due to the yellowed decal sheet,  it's likely that old.

I did a check,  since there were a few loose parts in the box.  the bottom bag had totally disintegrated.........it was still there,  but broke up when I picked up the bag.  I saw where all the loose parts came from on the sprues,  so it's safe to say that all the parts are here.  as for the instructions......they are a booklet,  and it's in Japanese.

the decals are in the same bag as the railings that line the gun deck.  the model is over 12 inches long.

I ordered a set of decals from Peddinghaus deals.....Archer has them too,  but I couldn't seem to find them on their site.  I hope to start on this in the near future.

[CDW]

After you build that Leopold, you'll be looking for a 1:72 BR-52 locomotive. 🙂

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

for 1:72,  it's a fairly large model.

You need one of these to go with it.....

 

BR-52

[mtaylor]

3 minutes ago, Egilman said:

You need one of these to go with it.....

 

BR-52

At least one.  Maybe two. And an ammo wagon.

[popeye the sailor]

good idea.......but I think I'll wait on that       I'm in hot water at the moment........the decals kinda did it.  looking at the kit decals,  they appear to be stuck to the plastic {I guess they didn't age well}.   I got notification that the decals have shipped.........'versendet'......I don't know much German,  but that's what I think it means.  I won't be starting this any time soon......I can wait.

[popeye the sailor]

....as I pull myself in further to the wrath of my own demise........   I've not yet had to employ a taste tester........why?.......I've got Gibbs to help me with that?!?!    through the turmoil,  I'll press on..........."if your gonna go......go with a smile!"

 

I did a bit more on the boiler house while play'in my video game the other night.  the lower roof is on.......I added the windows and doors,  almost forgetting to put in the glazing {window glass}.  I nix the idea of the interior stuff,  since the tinted material will not show that sort of detail.   perhaps should I become more adept with this area of modeling,  I will be emboldened    the corrugated roofing was another thing that was left to be desired.  I had one package of the smaller corrugation that was still unopened......it come in packages of two sheets.  opening it up,  the outer sheet stuck to the plastic covering,  and that practically ruined it coming off.  I'm thinking this is the result of it being old stock.  the size of the sheets was not meant for this type of building.......roof surface being wider than the sheet itself,  I had to patch in a smaller piece to make up for it.  I used the supplied roof parts for the covering and scratched in the rafters........I'm in the process of closing up the roof edge.

 

 

I took precautions in taking these photos.....glare would certainly be an issue.  I'm trimming back the rafters,  and then will cover them with a fascia.

more as I go along......... 

[mtaylor]

Living dangerously, Denis?   Certainly no danger from the models but else where.

[Canute]

That will be a fun roof to weather, Denis. These style roofs around here show a variety of rust shades.

[popeye the sailor]

once I get the roofs done,  I'll look into that next    thanks for look'in in gents!  

 

I laugh at danger Mark..........

[Roger Pellett]

Ok model railroaders, help me out.

 

I received the Rivarossi Mallet 2-8-8-2 locomotive today.  I have wanted to own a Mallet ever since seeing the one in the Henry Ford Museum years ago. This interest was only enhanced when I moved to Duluth as they, and their even larger brothers the Yellowstones hauled iron ore from the Mesabe Range mines to the ore docks in the Duluth Harbor.  While browsing on EBay I found this one at what I considered to be a reasonable “buy it now” price.

 

So, what’s the problem?

 

I don’t have an HO layout and know nothing about HO model railroads.  My last experience was Lionel over 65 years ago.  This was, for me a completely frivolous purchase.  I have a couple of ideas:

 

Buy 3 ft of track, ore cars, and a caboose finish all in DM&IR colors and leave it as a static display.  How do I refinish the “Pennsylvania” tender without damaging it?

 

Same as above, except make a bare bones out and back layout along one wall of my basement/ man cave.  No scenery, I just get to watch it run.  As this came without paperwork, I have no idea how to make it run or if it can be rigged with sound.

 

Comments Appreciated!!

 

Roger

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Roger I think Ken is your man,     I have dabbled  many many many years ago in railway sets, but I think its down to you  how far  you want to go,  how much immagination you  have and how deep your pockets are,   I would imagine  raliways are like a rabbit  hole.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

7 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Same as above, except make a bare bones out and back layout along one wall of my basement/ man cave.  No scenery, I just get to watch it run.  As this came without paperwork, I have no idea how to make it run or if it can be rigged with sound.

Yeah that's one way, but I know your not going to be able to or be satisfied just leaving it on a bare track... It needs to run in it's world.... The rest depends on it's age, date of manufacture and such... an HO scale engine of that size in DCC would command a hefty price tag so I would suspect it is just a simple HO engine from before the DCC era... In other words no sound... Still a great purchase... As far as reconfiguring it's scheme, the tender's shell should come off by just removing two screws through the frame underneath, (heck it may even be just snapped on) and at that point it's just like refinishing any plastic model... Which I know you can do...

 

Oh yeah, to run it open is simple, you need a complete circuit of track, and a dc power controller is all.... on, faster, slower, off.. turn the knob the other direction for the same in reverse.... Fairly inexpensive... power comes thru one rail and the electrical circuit is completed thru the opposite rail...  Configuration for more is a very DEEP, DEEP subject though...

 

If it is DCC, it gets a lot more complicated and involved...

 

Take the plunge down the rabbit hole, you won't regret it...

Edited December 14, 2021 by Egilman

[Canute]

Roger, the Rivarossi brand is an old one; their motive power is all pre-DCC, meaning it's a DC engine. Like Egilman said, a simple loop of track will work. You could get some Bachmann HO track, which just snaps together, keeping the rail joiners attached to the rails between the segments of track.There should be one straight segment with attachment points for your power pack. 

 

Be aware of the radius of the rails. Get the biggest you can handle in you space. These bigger, articulated engines can balk at 18" radius curves. 18" is the usual size included with a basic track setup. If all you can fit is a shelf in your space, you're limited to a long piece of track, pushing and pulling your consist of ore jennies and a caboose.

 

Adding sound can be costly and you'd need to use a DCC system for using sound in HO. The board and speaker setup will be over $100. Have a local hobby shop (LHS) do the install, if they are capable. Or else have them point you to a good installer. DCC is a very deep and convoluted rabbit hole. A minimal set up for running your train can cost several hundred dollars. A bare bones setup in DCC would be a power controller (included in a throttle), a wall wart power source and a connector to tie your controller to the track. This could run to about $200. A DC power pack may be about 1/4 of that.

 

The tender could be stripped with isopropyl alcohol. But that's no guarantee it will come completely off. You'll have to experiment. Ask your LHS if they can help there.

 

And if I remember correctly, Pennsy locos were finished in a very dark green/black paint, sometimes called Brunswick green. I think you have a greenish tinge to your loco, so Rivarossi may have painted it with that color. Just be careful with stripping the name off the tender. You may have to do a complete repaint.

 

Yeah, it's a fire hose treatment, but as OC said, it is a rabbit hole.

[Jack12477]

You can also buy 36 inch lengths of HO flexible track and sections of cork roadbed instead of individual pieces of track. There are also electric power clip you can clip onto the track from under the ties to provide electric power.  As Ken says check out your LHS for advice and sources.  That engine wants a wide radius curve, flex track may be a better choice that fixed radius sectional track for getting and acceptable curve. 

 

Walthers in Milwaukee is a great source for Model Railroad stuff, I think they still print a hardcopy catalog which you can order, or use their online catalog. They've been a major supplier for decades.

Edited December 14, 2021 by Jack12477

[Roger Pellett]

Thanks, all!

 

I’m still Collecting information.  This is a long term project. It looks like fun.