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Endurance ex-Polaris by John Fox III - FINISHED - 1:275 scale - ship in light bulb


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Greetings All,

 

Today I have some more detail work photos to share. The funnel and ventilators were made from aluminum tubing. The funnel was pinched slightly to form the final shape, then the top edge rounded off by pressing a drill bit at 45 degree angle and moving it around the circumference. The ventilator flares were made similarly, then bent to 90 degrees near the top.

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The yards, booms and gaffs were all made from glued up layers of maple veneer. Interesting to note that the topsail  is not attached to the yard, as the other square sails are. Close inspection of the Hurley photos shows that the topsail was actually attached to a second spar, mounted beneath the yard itself. I have never seen this arrangement previously, or since. From photos it would appear that the spar is actually a roller, and the sail is rolled up onto this spar much like a window shade arrangement. I do not think there was a spring inside the spar, as in a shade, but instead when the sail is rolled onto the spar a lines are attached at each end. Thus, when the sheets are hauled to lower the sail, the lines attached to the spar roll up onto the spar. So, when furling the sail the two "reef lines", as I call them, are hauled to cause the spar to rotate and the sail to get wound around the spar. There is an arrangement of a metal device, not clear enough to get exact details in the photos, which appears to extend forward from the yard and spar, an arm of sort through which the reef line runs. This arrangement would replace the normal clew and bunt, leech lines for the topsail. I wonder if it worked properly, or as intended, since I have never seen it replicated.

 

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Lastly I have a photo of the light bulb the model will be installed in, along with another of the inside of the cap for the bulb.

 

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Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We took a cruise aboard "Royal Clipper" just before Covid.  Her yards are hollow, and the sails roll up like window blinds on cylinders inside the yards. Rotation is provided by a hydraulic winch at the port end of each yard. Two crewmen on deck tend the sheets as each sail is rolled or unrolled. Six crew, all on deck, can make or stow all sail in I would think less than forty minutes. A very modern take on the windjammer.

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John, I've followed you on bottleshipbuilder, glad to see you posting your amazing work here!  I have to say, your hidden hinge technique is very clever - better than the staple hinge you typically see.  Gives me a lot to think about when doing my build.  Thank you for posting such clear pictures of how you did it!

 

 

 

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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12 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

We took a cruise aboard "Royal Clipper" just before Covid.  Her yards are hollow, and the sails roll up like window blinds on cylinders inside the yards. Rotation is provided by a hydraulic winch at the port end of each yard. Two crewmen on deck tend the sheets as each sail is rolled or unrolled. Six crew, all on deck, can make or stow all sail in I would think less than forty minutes. A very modern take on the windjammer.

Greetings Ian,

I never actually looked for anything similar quite that modern. Makes sense though, the technology certainly is up to it now days.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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12 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

John, I've followed you on bottleshipbuilder, glad to see you posting your amazing work here!  I have to say, your hidden hinge technique is very clever - better than the staple hinge you typically see.  Gives me a lot to think about when doing my build.  Thank you for posting such clear pictures of how you did it!

 

 

 

Greetings Mike,

Thanks for the kudos! Hope it does inspire some thinking and experimenting, that's what all my posts are there for! The hidden hinge is certainly not my original idea, don't know if anyone knows for sure who did think the idea up. I know that for many years it was known as the "Hinkly Hinge", due to the fact that a popular ship in bottle builder with that name used it and wrote about it. I just refined it a bit, by using the multiple veneer layers to make the cutting and carving easier that attempting to make the parts by whittling away at a solid wood dowel.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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21 hours ago, druxey said:

Would this be an example of Cunningham's reefing topsail? See:

 

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68645

Greetings,

It is somewhat similar, big difference I see is that the roller spar is above the yard on that one.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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Greetings All,

 

Today I have some more details added to my Endurance model. The observation barrel, made by wrapping paper around a suitably sized brass tube, then sanding and sealing with CA glue. Funnel and ventilators painted and skylight/bench made from wood and thread. A few over view shots of details in place, including wheel and stern railing. Bow area has catheads and ladders, also rails made from wire pins and thread. The rest of the railings were made the same way. Also added the boat davits, made from wire. Lastly the binnacle, smoke stack and capstan. Smoke stack is painted aluminum tube, with thread holding up the top. The binnacle and capstan were my first attempts at using casting and molding, using a kit from MicroMark. Hadn't mentioned before, but the prop was made from brass.

 

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Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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Some very nice detail for the scale you are working at John.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings All,

 

Today I have some more detail photos, plus an overall view of my Endurance model. The last shot is of the standing rigging. All the forestays are "control" rigging lines, i.e. the lines that are pulled from outside the light bulb to raise the masts. These lines exit the hull into the space carved beneath the upper hull.

 

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Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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Greetings All,

 

Today I have a few photos to share. Adding sails and the name tag on the stern. Name tag was printed on a cigarette paper, after printing on standard paper then taping with cellophane tape the cigarette paper right on top of it. It was then sealed with thinned varnish, installed with white glue, and a light coat of thinned varnish on top. The sails are printed on thinner printer paper, identical on both sides.

 

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The last photo shows all the control rigging lines exiting beneath the upper hull.

 

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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1 hour ago, Roger Pellett said:

John:

 

Is the lightbulb an actual lightbulb or something specially made?

Greetings Roger,

 

Yes, it's a sodium vapor street light bulb. I had a friend who changed them for the city, and got a dozen or so used ones. Opening the bulbs is a bit tricky as the glass is relatively thin. I wrap fine fiberglass cloth around the portion of the "neck" that I wish to cut through, then saturate it with epoxy glue. When fully cured I use a Dremel and thin abrasive cut-off wheel to carefully cut through the glass.

 

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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 John, amazing work.  How do you make your deadeyes? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Brilliant work, John!  Love the creativity for the mast hinges and the laminate spars.  I just finished up a much cruder version of the Aurora in a bottle.  The Antarctic exploration vessels from the heroic age are fascinating ships with incredible stories!  

Edited by Glen McGuire
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John, Absolutely fantastic as always. Glad to see you posting your work here. Seems I lost contact with you over the years. 

 

Al

Al

 

Current Build

 

The President by Sergal

 

Completed Build

 

Cutty Sark 1:75

SIB Hannah

Opium Smuggler

SIB Pride of Baltimore II

 

On Deck

 

Pride of Baltimore II

 

 

 

 

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On 4/24/2022 at 6:10 PM, Keith Black said:

 John, amazing work.  How do you make your deadeyes? 

Greetings Keith,

 

Will attach a few photos of how it's done. Wish I had some better ones, but will look around to see if I do. Basically, circular punches are made, shown, in an appropriate dia.. Circles are punched out of stained card stock, or construction paper of the right color, and these are placed on top of threads on a jig, then glued with CA glue. The jig was made from sections of a 71 dpi. razor saw blade, and screwed to a hardwood block. A piece of paper with deadeye spacing lines is slid beneath the threads. The threads were saturated with CA glue before adding the circles. A second layer of threads is rigged in the same tooth gaps, so they are directly over the threads beneath the circles, then glue applied again. The deadeye pairs are then cut from the jig, then trimmed to the outside edges of the deadeyes. If they are large enough, saturated thread pieces can be added between the ones already on the deadeyes, They are surprisingly strong, though it took a while to figure out exactly how much glue to use to make them. I can pull the shrouds quite tightly without them separating, at least most of the time.

 

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Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

 

 

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20 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

Brilliant work, John!  Love the creativity for the mast hinges and the laminate spars.  I just finished up a much cruder version of the Aurora in a bottle.  The Antarctic exploration vessels from the heroic age are fascinating ships with incredible stories!  

Greetings Glen,

Thanks! Part of the reason for the creativity for those parts is having to make many of them. I often built 2 or 3 models when I was building them for sales, so always tried to find ways to make things better/easier. I love the ships/boats of that era, I did a static display model of Amundson's Gjoa a few years back too.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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20 hours ago, Cuda1949 said:

John, Absolutely fantastic as always. Glad to see you posting your work here. Seems I lost contact with you over the years. 

 

Al

Greetings Al,

Thanks! Not sure about the "always", but I do try! <Grin> Been lurking around here nearly as long as you have, but been posting a bit more lately.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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Greetings All,

 

First off, thanks for all the "likes" and "wows"! This is the last of the Endurance log. First off I have a photo of the light bulb ready to use on it's stand. Then I have the lower hull part inserted and glued in place. Finally the model with all the control lines tightened and ready to glue. Next two show the special holder I made to keep the lines straight, and with openings allowing me to put CA glue right on the exit points of the control lines. Next I have the upper hull ready to glue to the lower hull, there are pegs to align it. That is probably the trickiest part of the finishing of the model, need to rest the upper hull at an angle, with the pegs near the holes, and then apply white glue to the holes and push the upper hull down. Lastly I have the completely finished model.

 

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Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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An amazing little model, crisp, clean work at 1:275 scale. Sticking it in a bottle (light bulb in this case) is the wow factor. Congratulations. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Love it.  A beautiful build and a unique display. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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What a beauty!  Very nicely presented and a well constructed Model John.  You should be proud of this one.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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23 hours ago, Keith Black said:

An amazing little model, crisp, clean work at 1:275 scale. Sticking it in a bottle (light bulb in this case) is the wow factor. Congratulations. 

Greetings Keith,

Thanks for the kind words! I like making people's eyes pop out! <Grin>

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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