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Posted

You'll want some sort of strategy to assemble the track links. Mine was to use masking tape to hold everything in place while link parts are positioned then cemented into place. It's intended the links be operable, but it will require careful placement of cement to keep from fouling each link hinge mechanism.

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Just took a close-up photo of a road wheel truck to show the level of detail molded into the parts. The trucks carry the serial numbers and the wheels the name of manufacturer and wheel size. Excellent detail.

 

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Posted
8 hours ago, CDW said:

You'll want some sort of strategy to assemble the track links. Mine was to use masking tape to hold everything in place while link parts are positioned then cemented into place. It's intended the links be operable, but it will require careful placement of cement to keep from fouling each link hinge mechanism.

I found with tracks like that, canopy glue works best, the last set I did I used gator's grip... I wouldn't go near them with any styrene or CA glue, it wicks way to easily and that's not what you want.... I suppose thinking about it you could get away with gelled tube glue applied with a needle that would eliminate the wicking problem I guess... 

 

The tape idea is a good one thank you for that...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted
Just now, Egilman said:

I found with tracks like that, canopy glue works best, the last set I did I used gator's grip... I wouldn't go near them with any styrene or CA glue, it wicks way to easily and that's not what you want.... I suppose thinking about it you could get away with gelled tube glue applied with a needle that would eliminate the wicking problem I guess... 

 

The tape idea is a good one thank you for that...

In the past, I have assembled individual track links using Tamiya liquid cement then shaped the links around the drive sprockets and idlers before the glue totally set. Of course, this takes away any operable links but I didn't care about that feature anyway. In this case, the hinge points for the links are so delicate, they may break off while shaping them around the sprockets. I'll know soon. 😄 

Posted
29 minutes ago, CDW said:

In the past, I have assembled individual track links using Tamiya liquid cement then shaped the links around the drive sprockets and idlers before the glue totally set. Of course, this takes away any operable links but I didn't care about that feature anyway. In this case, the hinge points for the links are so delicate, they may break off while shaping them around the sprockets. I'll know soon. 😄 

Well the tracks were kept tight on this system, they had to replace them most often because of track stretch rather than wearing out... Being one of the first double pin track systems, they still had a lot to learn, but they were infinitely better than single pin systems.... Yeah the pins are real delicate, any way of getting them around the bogies and sprockets that works is a good idea especially since you don't have to worry about track sag.... Me, I usually give the kit tracks a look see, then replace them with aftermarket, but that's just me....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted
17 hours ago, CDW said:

wheels, trucks, drive sprockets, idlers, and tracks = more than 800 separate parts

WOW, What a challenge.

Good luck

Posted

The kit plans call for 79 links per side for the tracks. Once the slack is pulled out of the track, it’s going to be tricky getting that last link cemented into place. The idlers on each side have a cam built in that enable a small amount of loosen/tighten as required to tension the tracks. My links are functional but it’s going to be a tight radius at the idlers. Keeping my fingers crossed for this step. I need to paint before permanently installing the tracks for obvious reasons.

 

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Posted
Just now, thibaultron said:

Could you install the tracks, then the drive gear?

Yes, of course that is the way to go. The idler and drive sprockets are not glued on now and won't be until everything is fitted into place. At this juncture, I have to figure out whether 79 is the correct number of links regardless of what the plans say. 79 looks too tight to me. There are ample extra links to add one or two if needed.

Posted

Great work mate  - same  situation  as I was in with my Chally  TES  build.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted
Just now, uss frolick said:

Great job! Are those Thompson submachine gun drum-mags on top of the 75mm ammo rack?

Yes, there are a couple of Thompson sub's mounted inside the tank but it's difficult to photograph them (for me a rank amateur) because of their location inside.

 

Just now, Javlin said:

Regardless the work looks great Craig these kits lend this selves more to a repair dio?:imNotWorthy:

Or a scene of massive destruction dio, which I contemplated but decided against until I got one built stock under my belt.  

Posted

I learned over the years that buying for the display method intended was cost effective when purchasing... I've opened up a few of these before, it even more work that gives spectacular results... but doing one where you can remove the top to show the insides to observers is problematic, they generally don't last long... The lookers like to touch and that's not good for fine details...

 

So I build for the shelf and buy the best kit for that intent unless I'm purposely building to expose the interior.. (but then it goes on a base in a locked case, no touching)

 

And a British Lee/Grant in the Eastern Desert blown out by an "88" would be a fantastic diorama.... That kit would be perfect for it, just add the sand shields...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

Really nice proress mate  -  that paint finish looks  top notch.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

A wonderful job on an interesting subject!  The painting technique of using darker primer on the riveted seams is interesting. Maybe it might work on ship’s hull plating as well?

 

As I have been watching you build this I have been struck by how similar these tanks were to the big gun battleships of the period with designers competing to see how much firepower they could stuff into an armored box.  Also, main battery, secondary, and small caliber armament in one package.

 

Roger

Posted
33 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

A wonderful job on an interesting subject!  The painting technique of using darker primer on the riveted seams is interesting. Maybe it might work on ship’s hull plating as well?

 

As I have been watching you build this I have been struck by how similar these tanks were to the big gun battleships of the period with designers competing to see how much firepower they could stuff into an armored box.  Also, main battery, secondary, and small caliber armament in one package.

 

Roger

Sort of a jack-of-all-trades type of tank. Much like one of those pocket knives with pliers, blades, screw drivers, and scissors.  Needed to be ready for any situation.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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