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Chieftain tank by king derelict - FINISHED - Takom - 1/72


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I have a feeling this may be an exercise in public humiliation but hopefully everyone will be kind.

The Flower corvette is waiting for parts to come in so I wanted to start something else while I'm waiting

Having recently invested in a set of circle templates and a masking mat I thoutht I should put them to use at an early date.

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So the diversion of choice is the 1/72 Takom Chieftain kit in 1/72 scale

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As the box says there are two complete models in the box to make both the Mk10 and Mk11 variants. I want to try to build one with the Berlin Brigade urban paint scheme as shown on the box art. That should get my moneys worth out of the masking mat and possibly cause gales of mirth amongst the audience.

The box is well stuffed with plastic and three sheets of PE and a decent looking set of instructions and various paint schemes.

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Its really nice to be back on the work bench with good lighting rather than entertaining the cats with the corvette on teh kitchen table.

I decided to build the two models in parallel at least to the end of the common parts. So two hulls now made

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Fit is nice and so is detail. Sprues are a bit chunky. 

Lots of road wheels made up in halves. Interestingly there is a pip and dimple to register the mating halves. I'm not sure why; it seems to align the bolt pattern on front and back which I guess is important to the detail oriented 😉 A nice touch

The first trucks have been assembled. 

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I think I will assemble the road wheels and general undercarriage before painting but I need to work out how the tracks are going to go on. I expect to only build the bare hull before starting the paint work> I need to minimise the difficulties of masking the hull.

This may be well beyond my abilities but it might be interesting and hopefully fun

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

RIMG1136 (1280x720).jpg

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Those thick sprues are indicative of limited run kits. The molds aren't quite as sharp with the pour channels into the parts. A good pair of sprue cutting pliers makes quick work of them, but you may need a wee bit of cleanup.

 

I'll follow along, Alan.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I'm in.  I do hope they are fun builds.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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The Chieftain was an excellent  tank  before the Chally,   so much character.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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5 hours ago, king derelict said:

I need to work out how the tracks are going to go on.

Two ways to do it Brother, (well actually three) two decent ones and one very difficult...

 

#1 leave the idler return wheel off until it's time to put the track on and do them together...

#2 Leave the sprocket off until it's time to put the track on, a bit more difficult than #1 but along the same lines...

#3 Assemble the tracks around the complete suspension, this was always the most difficult method for me, I could never get the last track link connection to line up properly...

 

I'm in my friend...

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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On 8/23/2022 at 8:33 PM, Canute said:

Those thick sprues are indicative of limited run kits. The molds aren't quite as sharp with the pour channels into the parts. A good pair of sprue cutting pliers makes quick work of them, but you may need a wee bit of cleanup.

 

I'll follow along, Alan.

Thanks Ken. I hope you enjoy this. So far the big sprues aren't a problem they are placed where it is easy to clean them up

Alan

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On 8/24/2022 at 1:27 AM, Egilman said:

Two ways to do it Brother, (well actually three) two decent ones and one very difficult...

 

#1 leave the idler return wheel off until it's time to put the track on and do them together...

#2 Leave the sprocket off until it's time to put the track on, a bit more difficult than #1 but along the same lines...

#3 Assemble the tracks around the complete suspension, this was always the most difficult method for me, I could never get the last track link connection to line up properly...

 

I'm in my friend...

Glad to have you onboard Egilman. Your help and reference information is always greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the tips on assembling the tracks = its going to be interesting. I'm saving up the daily allowance of bad language ready for it.

Alan

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I finished building two sets of undercarriage yesterday and installed one set. This is where the parallel build diverges. I want to move forward with one tank getting the tracks sorted out and use any lssons to do a better job on the second build.

The first job today was to trim off some of the features behind the drivers hatch which belong to an earlier mark. The modified hull is on the right. The Micro Mark chisels worked nicely

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The sprocket wheels were made up. The sprues are in between the teeth which required some careful trimming but I managed to get all eight done without cutting any teeth off. The two halves have a feature to register the teeth on both halves.

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The kit provides a jig to build up the tracks. Its double sided to work for both sets of tracks bt I am betting I forget to turn it over the second set.

The jig has some nice features; little pips to hold the sprocket wheet in the correct place to line up with the tracks and also pips to register the tracks.

518270641_RIMG1143(1280x720).jpg.a0208a29b95355e0ce525bb9abb0fbeb.jpgSo far so good. The problem was holding the top length of track, the sprocket wheel and the rear wheel in place while trying to add the links. Tape worked for the upper length but I finally thought of beeswax to hold the wheels in place.

Things then got a little more interesting. The links were reluctant to join together. After some messing around I found that the moulding in the recessed parts of the track link seemed to be blocking the assembly so I filed it back and the links fitted together. Then I found the links and length wouldn't sit around the sprocket wheel teeth. This seemed to be because the teeth were too thick so I filed back the inside of the wheel  I read that this is a scaled down version of Takoms 1/35 kit so maybe the reduction in size resulted in the problem.

With the parts reworked the links have been fitted around the sprocket wheel and seem to have fitted into place quite well

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I'm realising that the teeth on the underside of the tracks are not going to have enough room to slip over the idler return wheels. I can trim them off in the relevant areas = the skirts will hide the top section of track. I will think of some alternatives for the second build.

Small but interesting with some definite challenges.

Thanks for the interest and comments

alan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RIMG1141 (1280x720).jpg

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Well with all the lessons learnt yesterday continuing with the tracks turned to be - a continuing pain and probably used up the rest of Augusts spicy language allowance. It was fiddly to line up the sprocket teeth and the link and length interface but it eventually got there and the first set are complete. The spacing looks good and I can't actually tell where the transition is from length to individual link so I am happy. A dry fit on the hull proved that the jig sprocket to front wheel distance matches the hull (major relief) and it looks like the short bottom section should be a good fit.

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I decided that clipping the teeth off the tracks to slide over the idler wheels was not going to be very tidy even though they won't be seen so I ripped off the trucks that had been installed on the first hull. Luckily I had not used much glue and they came off easily. My plan is to put the track in place using the front wheel and sprocket wheel then add the trucks and finally the lower length of track. A test fit suggests that it should work. The instructions have you put the trucks on first (as I did initially) and then add the tracks. There is no suggestion of how you get the teeth over the idlers.

So, the trucks will need to be painted separately after all. 

Thanks for looking and have a great weekend all

Alan

 

 

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Thats made me think of an Excellent way to attach the tracks  on my Abrams   -  dry fit the drive and fornt iddler  to the tank, then build the track  around them and the other  (dry fitted) road wheels, then take them all off  including the connected track, easy then to fit the track when painted  with the front iddler and drive wheel over the road wheels  onto the tank.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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22 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thats made me think of an Excellent way to attach the tracks  on my Abrams   -  dry fit the drive and fornt iddler  to the tank, then build the track  around them and the other  (dry fitted) road wheels, then take them all off  including the connected track, easy then to fit the track when painted  with the front iddler and drive wheel over the road wheels  onto the tank.

 

OC.

That sounds good OC. I'm not sure the kit instructions always give the best solution.

Alan

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Not a lot of time to play today but I did get the last sets of tracks completed. I finessed the methodology and cut off the alignment pip on the jig for the sprocket wheel. Instead I glued the first link on the wheel and let it dry then put the wheel on the jig and rotated the wheel until the link was in place with the top length. That was quicker and less frustrating and seems to have produced a good result. 

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The next tasks are adding the basics to the hull and making up the turrets with just the basic elements and then its off to the paint shop

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

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I celebrated my return to the work bench by knocking over an open full bottle of Tamiya plastic cement. Luckily it didn't flow onto the models but it has knocked down the resale value of the work bench.

Its quite relaxing working something that you can hold in one hand. I'm not sure whether I get more exercise walking back and forth between kitchen and work bench with the Corvette or spending time crawling around on hands and knees looking for the latest bit of tiny plastic to escape the tweezers.

So the hulls are now complete as far as being ready to paint. The details will be added after the paint schemes are completed. The hulls are identical between the Mk10 and Mk11 tanks.

The turrets are now under construction. The Mk 11 turret is now complete for painting and the Mk10 is in progress. We are now at the point where the differences start to appear. The side of the turret is different between the two models, It is complete on the Mk11 and needs to be added to the Mk10. The kit provides parts to build one Mk10 and one Mk11. You can't make two Mk10s etc.

The hatches can be posed open and there are details on the underside of the hatch covers. I left them closed; there is nothing to see inside and the paint scheme are going to be difficult enough without adding to the mix. 

Generally its going together well but a lot of the parts seem jut a little too big. The tool boxes on the hull and the vision ring for the main cupola needed careful filing to get a good fit I'm not sure if these are a result of this being a scaled down kit. 

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The PE engine grills were a bit fiddly with nothing to align them but the PE is nice and soft to cut.

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I had to revive the Gators Grip with a couple of drops of water I'm getting towards the bottom of the bottle.

Hopefully priming everything next.

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

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Both Mk10 and Mk11 hulls, tracks, turrets and running gear got a dose of diluted Mig One Shot Black Primer. 

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I picked up the Mig British Berlin scheme paints

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In the spirit of inquiry (and a question of what I have in the cupboard) I am using Mig paints throughout; a first for me.

While the main parts are drying the kit baskets and lockers were built up for the two marks. The railings are fiddly but the PE is extremely accurate.

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These are the parts for the Mk 10 version875873290_RIMG1202(1280x720).jpg.5994a5f027b0c23dcf0b9bf1e8b9e868.jpg

Track Rust air brushed onto the tracks = the black rubber pads to follow.

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The running gear, the Mk11 turret and hull have had a coat of NATO green. The engine deck for the Mk10 also got the green.

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The Mk11 will be painted in green / black scheme for the RTR in Germany although looking at the next photo its extremely hard to see the different colours on the Mk10 although its a bit more marked in real life.

 

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The next move will be to add the undercarriage and then its into serious masking

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I agree  with Craig  -   looking  really nice.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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On 9/5/2022 at 2:32 PM, CDW said:

Wow, these look great Alan. 1:72 scale armor has come a long way. 

Thanks Craig

I was a little disappointed at first; pins were too big for locating holes in places but I'm really liking the kit as I'm moving forward. Its not Flyhawk but there is some very nice detail and the PE help a lot. I would like to try one of their 1/35 scale tanks

Alan

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So to masking - but the easy stuff first. 36 road wheels and idlers so the rubber rims can be painted. The circle cutter is a great help and avoids my terrible efforts at hand painting the rim

 

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They were then air brushed with MIG rubber and tyre paint. I got a bit of a shock expecting something black like Tamiya NATO Black but its really a deep grey. I think it will be fine but may need a hint of black adding during the weathering.

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The engine deck was masked for the Mk10 ready forthe white coat and then the complications.

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The skirts are fairly heavy PE. I gave them a shot of Mr Surfacer metal primer and a dose of Mig black primer for luck. Two layers of masking is needed and i hope the paint stays put.

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I think its going to be a challenge to line up the four panels. I'm thinking of mounting them on card or tape to hold them in alignment rather than just adding them to the side of the hull piece by piece. First all the running gear and tracks need to be added. I thought it would be a short trip to getting started on teh Berlin paint scheme but there is quite a lot to these little kits.

Thanks for looking in

Alan

 

 

 

 

RIMG1214 (912x1280).jpg

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Looking really good - nice job!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Well, sorry for the (enforced) silence. The landscape guys cut through my internet cable on Wednesday and i just got it restored. Things with the chieftain has been moving forward a lurch at a time.

The masks came off the road wheels and they came out quite well

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The trucks were added to the hull along with the upper sections of the tracks which are trapped in place by the idler wheels. It pretty tight in terms of clearance both in height and width. I had to sand the inside edge of teh tracks to stop them protruding.

454543399_RIMG1222(1280x720).jpg.8978ae51568f872ad8efba11c2515b8a.jpg

The skirts are made up of four pieces of PE per side and need to be fitted and carefully aligned.

727983178_RIMG1227(1280x720).jpg.2896bc0b5bdbe59599a929282c30f590.jpg

I used tape on the inside to try to make it easier. The PE was dished and needed a bit of rolling to straighten it out 

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The attachment points for the skirts are small and they are a bit fragile. In hindsight I should have added some blutack or similar at the top of the skirt to increase the area for the skirts to rest on.

The lower sections of track had looked like a good fit on the jig but with the assemblies on the hull they all turned out to be a little too long. Unfortunately not long enough to remove a link and take up the space. They were all about 1/8th link too long. If I had assembled it all while the glue was drying a link could have been dropped and the extra space lost in careful positioning of the remaining links. I ended up filing the edges of the adjoining links and got a reasonable fit. Its not obvious unless you turn the tank over and look at the pads carefully. We still have dirt and grime to add too.

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So now we have the basics done and the Mk10 will be focussed on

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A coat of matt white was given as the starting point for the Berlin paint scheme,

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And then the masking madness starts. The white sections are now covered. I have read that the Takom scheme is incorrect but it is close to the photos I have seen and is the only comprehensive side / top / front / rear reference I have. This took a lot of the day with several breaks. I have a feeling I should have given it a second coat of white but I was trying to avoid the blank white look even though it will be broken up by the other colours.

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The day finished with the blue grey paint air brushed on. 

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Now back to masking for the NATO brown coat and then the great (I hope reveal)

Thanks for looking in

Alan

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Looking good Alan, there is plentiful detail on these 1/72 tanks of yours.

Very nice work.

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

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5 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Looking good Alan, there is plentiful detail on these 1/72 tanks of yours.

Very nice work.

Thank you very much Edward. I really like these 1/72 vehicles (and the detail is really good on some of the brands). I keep thinking about a 1/35 version for comparison.

Alan

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The last set of masks were added ready for the brown coat. There are some discontinuities in the Takom scheme around the glacis so this is my interpretation using some photos off the internet too. 

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In the end I didn't use the mask guide very much. The skirts were masked using copies of the Takom guide blown up to the same size as the model and the rest were cut using the large copy asa reference.

And here we go with the brown coat in place. What a mess!

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Somewhere under all that might be a Berlin paint scheme. I went and had a cup of coffee to get my nerve up for pulling the masks off. Gulp!

So off it all came

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Thankfully my worst fears were unfounded, The PE engine grills didn't pull off and the paint didn't strip off them wholesale. The track sections, trucks and skirts all stayed in place. The paint didn't peel off from previous layers.

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There is some bleed through in places where it wasn't possible to get the mask to sit flat but I think it will work. Most of it can be touched up by hand I think. The lockers and baskets still have to be added and a bit of weathering should take care of the rest. I really like the Mig paints on this build; they really seemed to air brush nicely and they didn't life with the masks. I may be a convert from Tamiya. 

I think this calls for a beer!

Thanks for looking in and for the likes

Alan

 

 

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That is looking excellent Alan,   consider the  working area at 1/72  scale   - you have done a great job.

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Nice job on the camo - that must not have been a fun masking job!  Looks really great!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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