Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[the learner]

You're progressing nicely, thank you for your dedication!

[yvesvidal]

On 5/26/2024 at 6:46 PM, Chuck said:

 Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.

 

That is the trick.....faking the holes and not connecting them.

 

Yves

[Chuck]

Yupp....I have always done this on every ship model that I have made showing the scuppers.  Works like a charm.

[Chuck]

The hawse holes can be complex but if you spend a lot of time preparing and measuring it will go smoothly.   Before I begin describing my process here is a look at the contemporary model.   You can see many close up details here.

 

I started by preparing some new templates.   They are very much like the other templates but I wanted to add some other reference lines to help me more with aligning the hawse holes.   So these are the ones you want to use when you get this stage.

 

You will note a few things in that photo.  First you will see the dashed vertical lines I added that extend up to the cap rail.   These will allow you to mark the locations of the hawse holes on top of the cap rail.   To do this I cut some painters tape to the width of the hawse holes and placed it on the cap rail using the template as a guide.  The tape runs parallel to the keel across the cap rail.   

 

You will also notice how I cut the hawse holes from the template so I could use it as a stencil after taping it to the hull.   I also cut an opening to mark the location of the hawse hoods or naval hoods.  These are the plates that sit over the planking.   The template sits on top of the wales as before.  The forward edge sits against the stem.

 

I of course cut away the molding strip  on the hull before I taped the template in position.  I dont want to forget to mention that.   Then I traced the hawse holes onto the hull.   

 

On the inboard side of the hull,  I prepared another template specifically for the hawse holes.   Note the dashed lines again that extend to the cap rail.   This template was lined up with the tape I placed across the cap rail.  This will be the path I plan to drill through the hull for the hawse holes.   This was a lot of measuring and planning to come up with these templates but it all worked out well.   Just trace the hawse holes on the inboard side as well.  Note how the template is sitting on the deck which establishes the correct height...I hope.

 

I didnt take any pictures right after drilling the hawse holes.  I cant believe I forgot to do it.  But let me explain the process.  I drilled them out using progressively larger drill bits.   I drilled from both sides.   I drilled half way through from the front and then switched to inboard.  I drilled half way through until the holes met in the middle and the first small hole was clear and through.  Then I switched to a slightly larger drill bit and repeated the process.  I increased them until the hawse holes were almost full size and then I switched to a round file to clean them up and enlarge them further.   

 

THE ENTIRE time while drilling from the outboard side I used the blue tape on the top of the cap rail to guide the drill bit at the same angle.  Following the keel.   The hawse holes are almost level in height inboard and outboard with only a slight upward angle needed as you drill from the outboard side.  A very slight angle.   Not to worry if its not exact because when you dill from the inboard side to meet the outside hole it should all meet up decently.  

 

I touched up the red paint inboard and used a soft pencil to darken the insides of the hawse holes black...to represent lead or tin I suppose.

 

Next up was to add the Hawse hoods or Naval hoods on the outboard side.   These are made in two layers.  They are laser cut and on the outermost end is a laser etched detail.  This small etched detail wouldnt be difficult to carve with a sharp chisel.  But I just assume etch it onto the ends.  This means you must clean up the laser char from this "stepped" detail.  I used a small flat needle file.   It doesnt have to be perfectly clean either.  Just do the best you can.  Mine isnt perfect by any means and this little bt of char will actually accentuate the carved detail.   Look at the photo of the contemporary model to see it on the original.  The parts on the left are not yet cleaned.

 

The two layers are glued together carefully.  The circles for the hawse holes are registered together.   But a little tip....while gluing the two layers you can actually pre bend the hoods so they will stay bent and curved once the glue dries.  Its hard to see this in the photo but the one on the right is curved to almost match the hull curvature exactly.  This will make it so much easier to glue onto the hull.

 

 

Here you can see the two layered assembly glued onto the hull.  Please note that after gluing the two layers together the inside edge against the stem must be beveled.  I also cut these pieces a but longer (not by much) so you can line them up with your hawse holes drilled through the hull.   Just carefully bevel the edge a little at time until as you are test fitting it on the model it the hawse holes line up.   The holes themselves are also slightly smaller on this so you will have even more wiggle room to enlarge them after this is glued on the model.  I think they look pretty good and look quite a bit like the contemporary model.

 

Lastly...the bolster.   This piece is slightly thicker and not long enough to bend easily.  So I laser cut it on even thicker boxwood stock.   Its easier to sand the curve into the back side rather than bend it to fit on the hull.   Once the bolster sits nicely on the hull and the curve matches,   you can sand the outside to match.   This will leave the overall thickness at about 3/64".  Maybe slightly more.

 

Round off the top edges and sides but dont touch the hawse hole cut-aways just yet.   This will be done after you glue the bolsters on the model.  You will notice the oddball shape of the hawse hole cut-aways.  They dont look like half circles.   This is on purpose.   Remember the hawse holes are drilled through parallel to the keel.   So these weird shaped half holes are shaped like l=this so you can file them to the proper shape.   Use a round file to open them up to match the angle of your hawse holes through the bulwarks.  I hope that makes sense.   When initially gluing the bolster on the hull, line up the iboard side to match the profile of your hawse holes.  Just like in the photo.   Then use your file to shape them.

 

 

They will or should be opened up to look like this.  The holes were touched up and blackened with a soft pencil.

 

 

[druxey]

Nice, Chuck, and theoretically foolproof!

[Chuck]

Catheads...

 

I usually hold off on making the catheads, but it just makes sense to get them done now.  It will make it easier to finish off the inboard bulwarks which will be next up.   With the catheads all done I can get the waterways in on the f'castle deck along with the pissdale and other details.

 

All the pieces are laser cut for the catheads.  Below.  I have cleaned all the char off of these pieces and they are ready to assemble.

 

The sides with the carved panels were glued on first.  First the outside cover to establish the raised panel look and then the inboard piece.  These are 1/64" thick and are sanded down even thinner afterwards.

 

Then the carved front piece and sheaves were added.  These are a hair larger than needed so you can sand them all nice and flush.

 

Then the cathead was glue to the cat tail...no worries about the seam because that will be completely covered.

 

 

Using the templates that we used to establish the hawse holes,  the position for the catheads were marked outboard.  Then the bulwarks were notched out carefully.  I used a razor saw.  The notch was made narrower than needed and not as deep as ultimately needed.  Once the basic notch was cut out, I used a good file to slowly open it up to its final size and shape.

 

You will also notice I painted the inboard cat tail red in advance.  I painted up to the seam line.  Note the chamfered edges inboard.

 

When test fit and in the final position, the inboard side of the cat tail is flush with the top of the cap rail.   But the angle of the cathead rises and so it will be above the cap rail height on the outboard side.  You can see this in the picture.  This is what you are shooting for.  The cat tail is also left longer on the inboard side so you can shorten it accordingly.  It should sit flat on the deck.  You will soon see some inboard pics.

Above the cathead there is a cat block.  Usually this is an open cat block but on the contemporary model it is closed.  So I will follow suit.  This is laser cut and 3/16" wide. ...but is currently a straight cat block.  You need to sand a slight curve into this when viewed from above.  It needs to conform to the rounded shape of the cap rail when viewed from above.  See the plans.  This is easy enough to do.  It is a very slight curve.

 

Then a sheave is added and a slot is created on the bottom.  This slot will accommodate the top of the cathead.   It will sit right on top of it and thus this slot must be angled to match the upward slope of the cathead.  Again this is not hard to do.  I just used a small flat file.  But yes you can carve it with a chisel also.   The catblock was painted black.

 

 

A final pic of the catheads in position and the cat blocks too.  There is still a bunch of paint touch up to get done.

 

Now as you know there are many ways to build and position these.  For example,  if you wanted to,  you can add the inboard cat tail separately without gluing them together first.  Maybe that will be easier for some.  Cut it to length and paint it red.  Glue it to the inboard bulwarks and partially in the notch.  Then add the cathead by placing it into the notch up against the cat tail.

 

Its up to you.  I just thought it might be easier this way to make them look like one piece if they were glued together first.  But its not the only way to do it. And remember, the seam between the two parts will be completely covered by the cat block.  So it doesnt have to be perfect.

[Nirvana]

So delicate and clean.

[Chuck]

Thank You...

 

With the catheads completed I could finish some inboard details at the bow in preparation for fitting the bulwarks with the pissdale and other stuff.

 

In this photo you can see the the waterway was added around the perimeter of the fcastle deck.  It was done exactly like the other decks.  

 

Then I I added the final breast hook at the bow.  This was done just like the others on the deck below it.  It was laser cut in two pieces.  I made sure to bevel the inside edge so I got a tight fit against the bulwarks and stem.  I added nine bolts that stood proud using 30lb black fishing line.   Then it was painted red.

 

 

Lastly,  I added the thin an delicate molding strip on the inboard bulwarks.   If this is made too heavy it would just look bad.  So I made sure it was very thin and not too wide.  Its a nice feature on the model actually.  You guys wont have to worry about scraping the fancy profile into a strip of wood.  I laser cut these for you with the profile.  But I didnt use wood.  I laser cut them from very thin syre-nite acrylic.  This stuff is awesome really.  It is very, very flexible.  And we will need it to be, which is why I chose to use it.  It bends so nicely without breaking.   We will need that flexibility when it has to go around the top edge of the pissdales which are up next.   I would just recommend that you round off the top edge to make it look like a nice fancy molding strip.  Just be careful and use a fine 400 grit sandpaper.  Its beige to match the wood color but I could have actually laser cut them in red.  But for those of you who want to go natural without paint I am using the stuff that looks like boxwood.  The same stuff I used for the stern lights etc.   So you must paint it red before you glue it on the hull.  

 

It runs from the aft side of the cat tail and along the sheer in the waist.  It continues all the way back to the poop bulkhead.  

 

You really must try and keep a nice run with this molding.  It should be a graceful run from bow to stern without any dips or waviness.  Follow the run of your inboard planking.  the top of the molding is flush with the top of the cap rail along the waist.

 

[BANYAN]

A stunning model Chuck; enjoying your log.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Chuck]

Thank you for saying!!!

[dvm27]

Lovely and understated work Chuck. Nothing screams out "look at me" but the entire effect is extraordinary.

I look forward to your take on those troublesome pissdales! I didn't add a relief hole in the external hull and I don't believe the original did either. But otherwise why not just pee directly on the deck?

[Chuck]

Thanks Greg...

 

The contemporary model doesnt show the discharge for the pissdales nor does it show the scuppers.  I have added the scuppers but I am waffling on the discharge holes for the two pissdales.  It would be in such a prominent place on the outside of the hull it would certainly look odd to those who are not sure what they are.    I have plenty of time for that though.   I did place them on the plans so anyone who wants to add them can.

 

Chuck

[BANYAN]

Chuck, I cannot recall where I read this, but during my research I came across a comment that some vessels used internal piping as long as there was gravity to assist drainage.  Other ships used a vertical drop to where the pipe exited but only protruded a few inches and then had a canvas (or rubber in later ships) hose fitted, but this seems a very weak connection to me.  It would not have taken much of a seaway to break it off; perhaps the flexible pipe was only while in port? 

 

If I can find the reference again I will pass it on.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Chuck]

Thanks…very interesting but boy that would be an ugly fixture on a model.  I think the old masters who built these contemporary models had a great eye for what looked good….and not so good.  I believe they might have left off many of these features because they would just not look good.  
 

I think I may just follow that same logic and sensibility. 

[dvm27]

I completely forgot I included them on my model Chuck. At any rate some research shows that the pissdales were made of lead, copper or occasionally wood. There was a lead small discharge tube directly under the pissdale. This 1.4" tube would exit through a small scupper in the waterway. My discharge tubes are comically large.  They should only be about twice the diameter of a treenail. The pissdale discharge scupper holes on my model would be more appropriate for a herd of horses. They were discontinued after 1765.

 

I'm going to have to fix that now damn you!

[davyboy]

I made them on my Speedwell according to David's plan,the largish diameter would make sense for solids disposal. The question of these being discharge points for only pissdales intrigues me.

 

If there were only pissdales on Speedwell where/how was the solid waste of the ordinary seamen disposed of ? Using the headrails would be rather dangerous,the channels maybe,or just hang their rumps over the side ? Just asking  

 

Dave 

[yvesvidal]

I did provide some holes under the roundhouses and some seats of ease on the Bellona:

 

 

The holes are hard to see under the roundhouses, but they are there. Same for the seats on the bow....

 

Yves

Edited June 11 by yvesvidal

[jfhealey]

17 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Nothing screams out "look at me" but the entire effect is extraordinary

That elegantly puts in to words a feeling I had but I couldn't quite put my finger on what it was.

Fred

[druxey]

Nice going, as usual, Chuck. BTW, those are not pissdales, but the heads! I think one would want discharge tubes for sure....

[Freebird]

Chuck,

 

Not to change this fascinating subject, but when removing char from the short frames, is the char removed from the area above the tab? Or is this area going to be covered by other details. It's hard to see in the framing pictures. Thanks!

 

Best Regards .... Rick

[Chuck]

I dont quite understand the question.  Perhaps a photo?

[Freebird]

Here’s the area I’m asking about, it’s circled. Thank you!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[Chuck]

You could give it a few swipes.  But you will be fairing inboard at some point and that will all be removed later.  But its best to get rid of most of it now as it will dirty up your hull.

 

 

[Freebird]

Thank you Chuck!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[Chuck]

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc

 

The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.

 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.

 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.

 

The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.

 

The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.

 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.

 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.

 

 

I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  

 

Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.

 

Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.

 

[sfotinos]

On 3/31/2024 at 3:36 PM, Chuck said:

Just a heads up for those building the kit.  Jim Rogers caught a error on the labeling of parts.  It is now corrected.  But you will find that there are two sets of frame parts AF.....The taller set is actually AF.  The shorter set is mislabeled.  Those are actually 10A.  Good catch Jim....thank you.  The parts are actually fine.   The one set is just mislabeled.  So grab your parts and correct the label on the shorter set before you get that far.   Label them as parts 10a.

 

You will find them on sheet "M" of laser cut parts.   Those need to be relabeled.

 

Chuck

So I'm building frame 10A.  I had already relabeled mine when you posted this.

I seem to however already have a set of 10A?  All 4 match perfectly.

Hopefully I'm good.

Shawn

 

[Chuck]

We shall see....It was only the first initial sets of chapters.

[Chuck]

I am working on the cannon....will have a step by step very soon.  The cannon will be fully rigged since I will be rigging the entire model.  Four down and four to go!!

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Making the guns..

 

There are 8 cannon.

 

First sand the char off both sides of each laser cut sheet of carriage parts.  Do this before removing the parts.  Its just easier.   Then proceed to remove the char from the edges of all pieces.  Dont sand too much.  Just a light touch is needed.  The two sides or the "brackets" of teach carriage are laser cut with all the holes for your various eyebolts etc.

 

Then if you intend to paint the carriages...do that on all parts before assembling.  Its just easier.  Note the axle are left bright as well as the wheels (trucks).

 

In addition, this chapter will come with a carriage jig.  It is a simple jig.   Add the center piece of the jig first.  Then it is best to add the two axles in position so you can better position the other two jig pieces.   Position the two jig elements on the far sides of each axle so they can be easily slipped in and out of the jig.  Dont make it so the axles are too tight in the jig and hard to remove.   Finish up the the jig with the final fourth piece which is used to secure the brackets at the correct width apart from each other.   

 

Then you can glue the two brackets to the axles....after they dry remove this assembly from the jig and you can repeat for all eight carriages.

 

Next up...add the front (transom) and the back (bolster) atop each axle between the brackets.  Note the stool bed and quoin ready to go in the next step along with some 3/64" dia brass rod.  

 

Insert the longer brass rod (not included) through the carriage.  The stool bed will sit on this.  The two smaller lengths simulate the transom bolts.  Normally this would go through the transom from one side to the other.  But in our case they wont.   They are just cosmetic.  Just fill the hole so it looks like it does.  They can be be blackened.

 

Then I glued the quoin atop the stool bed in advance.   Then glued this on top of the bolster and long brass rod.  See the photo.

Small eye bolts were made with 24 gauge black wire and inserted according to the plans.   Many of you will be familiar with this repetitive task.  I also made ring and bolt for the breech line.  Even though the photos show it on the carriage, they will be removed for now.  It is easier to add them to the breech line itself and then insert them into the carriage sides.  That is if you intend to rig the guns which I do.  I also turned the quoin handle from some scrap 3/64" boxwood strips.   But you guys ,ay choose a commercial option of using a belaying pin...if they dont look too out of scale and huge.   Which they almost certainly always look out of scale.

To finish up the carriages I drilled the holes along the stepped sides of each bracket.  I inserted 30 pound black fishing line to simulate the bolts.  I also added the the trucks (wheels).  To finish up the trucks a small length of either 24 gauge black wire or even 25 pound black fishing line can be used to simulate the truck keys.  The keys are run through the laser cut holes in each axle.

The cannon are resin...they are cleaned up and finished with some weathering powder as I usually do.   The trunnion were sanded shorter to match the width of each carriage.

 

The capsquares are interesting.  I hate making these. So this time around I spent basically an entire day figuring out how to laser cut them.   Thats right....laser cut.  No 3d printing or casting.  I designed and laser cut the capsquares in one piece.  They do have some 3 dimensionality to them.   I am quite pleased with how they turned out.  It took many many failed attempts.  Just clean them up and weather them if you like.   Then glue them on....

 

The finished product...

 

 

 

 

Questions or comments are always welcomed.

[Tossedman]

So good! Everything here is aspirational for me. Some day! What are the capsquares made of? Did you laser cut them in one pass? Not sure as to how you'd go about that process?  

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

Edited June 24 by Tossedman