Rigging - how to / tips

[Mario Pires]

I have recently finished my first model, which had a simple rigging (Zulu fishing boat). Aside form the technicalities of rigging it correctly it was quite a challenge to pull strings through very small holes, in fact it seemed quite impossible and I ended it up by enlarging the holes in blocks f.i. to be able to make it. Wonder if there are any practical ideas on this.

[Seamus107]

Sometimes I cover about 1/4” of the end of a line with super glue and, when the glue dries, cut the tip at an angle to yield a sharp point. Usually I can then get the stiff, pointed tip through an appropriately sized hole.  If the tip bends or frays, I re-cut a new point a little ways back and try again.

 

james

Maine

[Mario Pires]

nice idea, thanks James

[dvm27]

Hole size is proportional to block size so if you're having trouble perhaps the blocks are too small or, more likely, the rope is too big. In any case for rigging one must have a set of miniature reamers such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Model-Craft-PBR2194-Cutting-0-6-2-0mm/dp/B001JJZ76I/ref=asc_df_B001JJZ76I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232118681&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1012005693499827230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018605&hvtargid=pla-422910410143&psc=1

As well, using CA on the final 1/2" of the line and pointing it after dry will allow you to get the rope started as James has stated above.

[barkeater]

Try using a needle threader which are easy to find at brick-and-mortar stores such as hobby shops, fabric stores or online. They are sold in packs. They are cheap which is good as I break them frequently.

Richard

[ah100m]

And these are the best needle threaders:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001DS1RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Roger Pellett]

Our hobby involves handling tiny parts.  As we get older, this gets harder as our hands get less steady and, at least in my case we loose feeling in our finger tips.  Rigging blocks top the list of this as sometimes handling them is like trying to grip a watermelon seed.

 

To help me, and to minimize things lost to the Floor Gods, I have learned to minimize the number of “moving parts.”  This means whenever possible securing parts, however small, in some sort of vise or fixture.  The last time that I did rigging, I built a small simple rigging vise that gripped a block in an alligator clip.  The head of the vise that held the block was a piece of aluminum  that slid up and down on a steel rod, and was secured by a set screw.  This allowed the block to be fixed at eye level, with me seated.  A purchased fly tying vise would have worked too.

 

Wherever possible, I clamped the block in the alligator clip, brushed a tiny dab of clear fingernail polish on the end of the line, and poked it through the hole in the block.  Sometimes it helps to trim the end of the stiffened line with a pair of SHARP scissors to get rid of loose threads that might interfere with threading the block.  When I finished the model I put the scissors away until the next rigging job.

 

 

Roger

 

 

 

[GGibson]

I definitely agree with Roger on the "lost to the Floor Gods" comment! My workspace is on a tile floor, so when I drop a block or a deadeye, it bounces to... who knows where?!?!  So, I have employed the same technique as Roger, securing whatever I am trying to thread/rig in my helping hands workstation with rubber alligator clips.  Keeps things quite steady!

 

And, I also use the CA technique both James and Greg mentioned to stiffen the line being threaded.  Although I do use a needle threader for some applications, i.e. pulling line in order to serve shrouds, I would think that it might be difficult to use a needle threader to pull through block or deadeye holes, as you'd be doubling the thickness being pulled?  

[bridgman]

The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals.  They come to a needle point

and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks,

and if you are  brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck.

A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are 

almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build.

Bridgman bob

[toms10]

4 hours ago, barkeater said:

Try using a needle threader which are easy to find at brick-and-mortar stores such as hobby shops, fabric stores or online. They are sold in packs. They are cheap which is good as I break them frequently.

Richard

One issue to consider when using a needle threader is the thread is folded over when it is pulled through the hole in the block. This means that the hole must be large enough to accept twice the thread (rope) diameter.   As previously mentioned, if the hole is that big, it might mean that the block is too big or the rope too small or even both. I am assuming the block is of decent quality. Sometimes the hole needs to be cleaned up a bit  The CA glue on the tip works best for me.  😁

 

Tom

[Jaager]

If you can wait a few minutes for it to stiffen, PVA will also form a point on line.

[popeye2sea]

2 hours ago, bridgman said:

The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals.  They come to a needle point

and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks,

and if you are  brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck.

A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are 

almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build.

Bridgman bob

One way to do this is to CA stiffen a much longer length of your line (1 to 2 inches or whatever is needed).  You can then get the line in to wherever the block is.  Of course this does waste a bit more line and if you are purchasing your line it is not cheap.

 

Regards,

Henry

[Bob Cleek]

A touch of CA on the end of the thread is definitely a good way to stiffen the line. Using hemostats and needle holders to handle the thread will be found a big help. Check out the many instructional videos on YouTube about surgical instrument suture tying. Doctors don't use their fingers to stitch you up. It's all about using the instruments. Learning a bit about how surgeons handle thread will give you a whole new perspective on model ship rigging.

 

 

 

 

 

For fine off-the-model rigging tasks like block stropping, I've also found the "QuadHands" line of tools much better than the old ball and clamp articulated "third hand" holding systems. "QuadHands" holders come in a variety of configurations and their alligator clips come with slip-on soft plastic sheathing tubes for the jaws, too.  ("QuadHands" is the original U.S. made quality version of this device. The internet is flooded with near-identical Chinese rip-offs. The real deal is just a few bucks more and, as always, you get what you pay for.  See video:  QuadHands® - Helping Hands Tool

 

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by Bob Cleek

[mtaylor]

One thing about using CA for this is to use the thinnest CA you can find.  I find that regular CA is sometimes to thick to go though the block hole.  I dip the thread in the CA and then run the glued end between my fingers to remove the excess.

[Dziadeczek]

I have some left over supplies of great boxwood blocks made by Lloyd Warner (unfortunately he doesn't make them anymore), which I am using for my French 74 gun ship model.  Some of them, especially the smallest ones (2 mm), have holes that are a bit too small for my ropes. I enlarge them by gently drilling them with an appropriate  drill bit held in the pin vise. The original hole will provide a guide for the bigger one. After I pass the rope through the new hole ( I stiffen the end of the rope with PVA glue to facilitate passing it through the hole), the bigger hole will be invisible in the block, covered by rope.

[Joseph Schmidt]

Heres my block holder. A fly tying vise.

 

 

 

EJ

[bridgman]

Bob:

Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks.

Bridgman Bob

 

[Mario Pires]

thanks for all the ideas here, now I can practice...

[Keith_W]

I am a rather old doctor and going to retire soon. Yes we do use instruments to tie knots, especially if we want precision knots. But we do tie knots by hand. The end of that video has some links to more surgical knot tying videos. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  The Admiral does beadwork, and has 'bead reamers' that are pretty narrow - they can be found in craft stores that sell beading supplies - or on line.

[Mario Pires]

On 12/4/2022 at 11:26 PM, Bob Cleek said:

 I did get the helping hands is a good tool. The challenge for me has always been to get the rope through the hole in the blocks, and in general how to make the "building blocks" of rigging. The rigging books I have seen are not for beginners.  There are a few people on youtube with how to videos which have been very helpful.