Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale

[Blue Ensign]

I have been harbouring this offering from Syren for nearly four years, so it’s time to come out from beneath my bench.

My kit dates from 2019 and this will be my next project, and the third from the Syren SMC. Having thoroughly enjoyed both Cheerful and The Queen Anne Barge I am very much looking forward to the Longboat.

I am not completely unfamiliar with the Longboat style as I completed the MS 1:48 scale version (also a Chuck Passaro design) back in 2017.

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I enjoyed that build and it makes a nice-looking model, but the ½” version is a significant step up in terms of accuracy, materials, and quality.

I am a late arrival to the Medway Longboat party, and I doubt I can add anything to the wealth of experience as recorded in the public group forum for Medway, not only Chuck’s build, but also from others whose work I have long admired.

I am fortunate to have all this to hopefully smooth my way along.

 

 I will spend some time reading thro’ the logs before I begin.

 

B.E.

08/01/23

 

[CaptnBirdseye]

I liked the look of this on Chuck's website too, so will be very interested to see what you make of her. Every confidence in you tho

[Ryland Craze]

Looking forward to seeing your build of the Medway Longboat.  It is a fun build.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One.

The journey begins.

Parts one and two of the guide have been printed out and a supply of 320 sandpaper obtained to prep the keels. A fresh mix of wipe-on-poly has been made up so it’s time to get going.

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I have decided to build both keel versions, simply because they’re there.

I quite like the look of the scarph joint version but as Chuck has gone to the trouble of creating the more authentic lap joint arrangement, I hope to use that one.

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I used a No11 blade in the scalpel to pare down the lap joints and finished with 320 paper.

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The cedar cuts cleanly, but I got through 10 blades fettling the lap joints.

One annoyance was that a tiny corner piece of the stem broke away on the top side where it meets the lap joint rebate.

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I added a small piece of timber and sanded flush, hopefully it won’t draw the eye.

 

The scarph joint arrangement keel is much easier to assemble, but despite Chuck’s assurances that the simple butt joint at the stern will hold, I am still nervous, but resisted the urge to dowel it.

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I do the assembly on an old tile which provides a flat surface and can be kept clean.

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The simplified version is shown here on the old build board for the Queen Anne Barge.

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A paper template has been cut out to mark the nail positions on the lap joints.

 

B.E.

16/01/2023

 

 

[Chuck]

A really good start.  Have fun with the project.

[shipman]

Oooo!

 

Another one of your exciting builds BE; and so soon.

Always a big fan of your projects.

Any chance you would consider a different approach to the decoration?

No doubt about Chuck's product quality, but this model in its various scales is getting so hackneyed on this forum,

it would be refreshing to see a different treatment.

 

I can but hope.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, shipman,

I’m not sure I agree with you about this kit being hackneyed on MSW.

Compared with many other builds there are relatively few in active progress, and even less completed.

The decoration is a minor element of the build, which produces a superb version of the contemporary model in the NMM.

I don’t see much scope for giving the build a different treatment that would improve on the basic model. If you have anything in mind, I’m all ears.

As a serial kit basher, the Syren kits are the only ones I have not felt the need to make any significant modifications to.

I am considering whether to fully plank of leave partially in frame to match the Royal Barge, but that’s about it.

 

A long time ago I copied this photo from a log.

I don’t recall whose build it is now, but I liked the display of the Longboat very much.

 

Sorry to disappoint you, but I hope you will still look-in  periodically to see progress.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

[Wintergreen]

Ah, nice! Another small build to follow.

I'll just take stool and sit in the back for the time being. 🙂 

Keep it up!

 

And yes, adding that little extra for display is a very handsome way to go.

[shipman]

BE, I did mention there are no issues with Chicks excellent kits.

 

Ultimately this is a typical Longboat from the period.

Surely not all had red as a dominant colour and even less had the florid decoration?

These 'Medway' longboats have been a constant feature on this forum since they were introduced.

 

I suppose retaining the kit colour scheme will fit in nicely with your previous builds.

[Blue Ensign]

Post two

The keel is completed by the addition of notched strips into which the frames will be fitted. These need to be centrally placed to form a rabbet either side.

I used strips cut from spare 1/32” cedar sheet to provide  spacer pieces to ensure the fit is central to the keel.

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 The stem notched section is fitted first.

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The first part of the sternpost addition is fitted next but has been sanded a little to provide an adequate rabbet.

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The second part of the stern fitting also sanded a little to enhance the rabbet.

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The long keel section is fitted lastly and is centred by use of four spacing jigs along its length.

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The long keel section fitted perfectly along the keel without the need for any adjustment.

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So far, So good.

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Chuck specifically mentions ensuring an adequate rabbet at the stern.

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Templates used to mark the bolt holes through the lap joints. Using it both sides aligned the holes and allowed for through drilling. I used a 0.70mm ø drill, and a coat of wipe-on was then applied.

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There seems to be some variation in the line to use for the bolts. The instructions say 25lb monofilament line, but Chuck’s own log mentions use of 201b or as an alternative 22 gauge copper wire.

The kit list indicated 10lb, 20lb, and 40lb black filament but I could only find 10lb filament. 28 and 24-gauge wire was also provided.

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In the end I settled on 70lb/31.8kg (0.75mm) monofilament line.

 

The final part of this section is attaching the transom. There is a useful vertical shallow slot lasered into the fore face of transom which assists both positioning and gluing the piece into place.

The other main consideration is ensuring that the transom sits squarely to the keel at 90 degrees.

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I created a simple jig to check the square, made from bits of fret from the kit.

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My  Queen Anne Barge build board proved useful for aligning the Transom.

A further coat of wipe-on will now be applied before moving on.

 

B.E.

23/01/23

[CaptnBirdseye]

Great start, but then would expect nothing less! Could i ask - the tip for centering the keel section, was that your idea or mentioned in the instructions? Either way a great idea 👍

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Captn,  it's a fairly common approach, used by others in the group build section, but it's one I've used  over quite a few years , similar adaptations have all sorts of applications in ship model building.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Chuck]

Looking good!!!

[glbarlow]

Nice to see you back in action.  I’ve always admired this kit, I’ll enjoy watching your build. I’m sure there are no others in your home matching the designed color scheme and subsequently no reason to change it for our entertainment. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Glenn, no others of a similar scheme , oh, except the Queen Anne Barge, the 1:24 pinnace, the 1:48 Longboat, and the 1:64 Admirals barge.😉

Trouble is I rather like the effect of red ochre for the inboard works on these models,  and after all in the 18thc Georgian Navy you could have any colour you like as long as it was Red Ochre.

 

Not used it before but I do like the cedar wood finish of this kit, it's a great substitute for Boxwood, and  is now my second favourite wood.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post three

Frame preparation is the next task.

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It starts with the fore and aft single frames. In accordance with the advice, tape is applied both sides of the frames to support the cut line during fairing, and small tabs are glued in place to support this weak area.

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Provided blocks are used to protect the transom.

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Dry test fitting of the keel, the first of many such tests before  any glue is applied.

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The double frames comprising Top timbers and floors are assembled.

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On the stern section board, the floor sections face aft.

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On the bow section board, the floor timbers face forward except for frames 1 and 2 next to the board join, which also face aft.

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The frames slot into the build board with very little need for adjustment.

I will now play around with the keel fit before I commit to glue.

 

 

B.E.

25/01/23

 

[Wintergreen]

Never realized it before, but those frames are delicate!

I also like the tone/colour of the keel, such nice wood. Makes me think I need to experiment with finishers on my apple-wood.

 

Btw, the cutting mat is impressive in all its humonguousness 😉 (don't know if that actually is a word, but it sounds right 😄 )

Keep it up!

[Chuck]

Brings back memories.  Lovely.

[Toolmaker]

That looks a great start. I’ve only recently finished the woodwork on mine and clearly remember the nervy excitement of starting out.

Thank you

Paul

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Hakan, chuck and Paul.

 

@ Hakan - Those frames are delicate enough to make me twitchy when it comes to fairing.

                    That cutting mat has seen a lot of service, probably due for replacement, a lot of battle scars over the years.

 

@ Chuck - Love the Alaskan Cedar you are now using.

 

@ Paul - I still feel nervy  starting a new project,  even after all these years. Thank you for looking in on my build.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Four

Being a belt and braces sort of chap I applied the tape and  wooden tabs to all the frames in preparation for fairing.

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I spent time assembling/disassembling the frames and keel on the building board. I didn’t find it an easy task getting all the keel slots to sit fully down on the frames, but until this is done there is no point moving on. Some of the frames required a slight sanding where they fit into the keel slots.

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Once I could assemble the aft section in a fairly seamless manner, I proceeded to glue. This process took but a short time.

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No hogging in the keel.

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… and no keel warp.

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Always a relief when this first part has been completed without mishap.

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I added an extra support for the transom using  spare brace pieces.

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The hull is flipped for the application of tape to the  underside of the building board.

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The tricky business of fairing beckons.

 

B.E.

27/01/23

[Blue Ensign]

Post Five

 Preparations are made for the fairing process.

 I will be using 320 grit aluminium oxide fabric backed sandpaper, which I buy on rolls. I also have some 240 grit sheets.

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Many will be familiar with Model Craft finger sanders, the main drawback being replacing the sanding bands which cost around £9.00 for three, comprising a coarse, medium, and fine grade which for this job means two of the three aren’t of much use for the fairing process.

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I make my own replacements using 320 grit off the roll with the ends joined together using ca and heavy duty parcel tape. (The same stuff used for securing the two halves of the building board.)

A lot cheaper than the replacement bands, and the exact grit grade required can be used.

 

You will all have heard of range anxiety in relation to electric cars, well I suffer from frame anxiety in relation to model ships.🙄

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Overkill maybe but I added small blocks of balsa between the frames to reduce flex.

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Fairing in progress. Cedar is a fairly soft wood, so the 320 grit is sufficient for the purpose.

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At this point I have probably spent a couple of hours fairing, but I’m not done yet.

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I use a thin planking strip to regularly check the run across the frames.

 

More than enough of that for today, tomorrow with fresh eyes I will use the strip to check across all frames at  different levels.

 

 

B.E.

30/01/2023

 

 

 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Great start BE.  Does that building board come with the kit?  What a nice feature!  I've gone through bulkhead anxiety myself trying to keep everything square.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Mike,

The board is an integral part of the kit, and has been well designed by Chuck, but it can be disposed of once the planking is completed.

I will modify it to hold the hull  in the upright position once that stage is reached.

 

B,E,

[Blue Ensign]

Post Six

 

I always have a niggle of doubt completing this element of a build; is this the right point to stop, is it as good as I can get it?

 After several more hours, I think (hope) the fairing is complete.

Running my test plank across all frames from Garboard to sheer indicates a fair lie as far as I can see.

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I did not experience any traumas with the frames; with the tips from Chuck they held good, and the balsa blocks between the frames helped, along with repeating the mantra – soft hands, keep it easy, to myself.

 

To get the most benefit from this project, even tho’ it’s not strictly necessary, I will follow Chuck’s  plan of lining off the hull for planking.

 

Time to move to the next stage.

 

B.E.

 

01/02/2023

 

[Chuck]

That looks very good.  Well done.

[Ryland Craze]

Nice work.  It brings back many memories of how good this kit is.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seven

 And it was all going so fine.

 

When I came to do the tick strips I quickly found that there was a variance between the overall length of frame edges port and starboard.

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The eight aftermost rear frames were fine, but ten of the forward ones were out between 2-4mm. The port side (with the hull inverted) were all shorter than the starboard side, suggesting that the frames are not centred.

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You can see here marked in pencil on the frames the length difference between the keel rabbet and edge of the floor timbers on the opposing side.

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There is no wriggle room laterally in the frames they fit tight against the board slots, and the two halves of the board are squarely joined. The keel looks straight but as it stands, I can’t proceed on this basis.

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Nothing for it but to disassemble the forward half of the keel and re-set, hopefully with better results, but at least the fairing has been achieved.

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Fortunately, the keel separated from the frames fairly easily without any damage, but I’m still left with the issue of how to centre the keel without lateral movement in any of the frames.

 

It looks like I need to shave a fraction off the board slots relative to the offending frames to allow a degree of lateral movement. This would be easier and less risky than messing with the frame centres.

 

Before I proceed, any thoughts from those who have gone through this process?

 

 

B.E.

02/02/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Postscript to previous .

 

Chuck has identified the likely cause of the issue as the keel not being fully centred on the forward framing section, plus a slight keel bend that I couldn't detect.

 

Round two coming up, I must try to do better.

 

Given how busy Chuck must be, what a great service he provides.

 

Thank you Chuck.

 

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eight.

 Armed with Chuck’s good advice and with better heart I sallied forth to re-fix the bow section frames.

 What testy business, once I’d got frames 1 and 2 at the bow spot on centred, attempts to centre the frames along the keel instantly threw them out.

I decided to centre and glue the foremost bow frames H and G into the keel and let them set.

I figured that I could still remove the forward Build board section and then refit it for centring the remainder, noting those which presented difficulty.

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I eased the frames a little to allow the keel notches to slip a little easier across the frames.

It seemed to work, and the remainder were re-fitted and glued.

There was time to check the measurements both sides of the frames which are now matching.

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Hopefully back on track, now where did I put those tick strips.

 

 

B.E.

 

03/02/2023