HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[James H]

I get it. I attributed some parts to 3mm MDF when it was supposed to be 4mm. No biggie.

 

That I had to flick between 3 or 4 open pages when writing, plus being badly ill with long covid at the time, it's a wonder I got anything finished.

 

Thankfully all parts numbers are laser engraved too, so it's hard to get wrong.

 

Carry on! 😆

[Blue Ensign]

If that's a reference to my post Jim, I'm not having a go at you, simply record it to save people time in sifting thro' all the sheets to find the part, as I did initially, and as something  highlighted for future editIons of the manual.

This was a massive enterprise and I commend your efforts and build, sorry if I've upset you.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[James H]

2 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

If that's a reference to my post Jim, I'm not having a go at you, simply record it to save people time in sifting thro' all the sheets to find the part, as I did initially, and as something  highlighted for future editIons of the manual.

This was a massive enterprise and I commend your efforts and build, sorry if I've upset you.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

No, not upset at all. Perhaps a little bemused. This was such a complicated venture, mostly undertaken by myself while I could barely breathe or spend time in the cave. It's likely a reminder of how bad my mind was working at that time. 

[Blue Ensign]

Chapter Four

What lies beneath.

Before the Upper (gundeck) is fitted I need to establish what may be seen below on the Lower deck.

This is relevant on my build as the deck will be open to maximum view.

Planking and detail provision is made for the Lower deck between the Fore hatchway and the Mainmast, but aft of the Mainmast there are also ladderways and hatches down to the lower deck which just may be visible should I choose to leave the gratings off the hatchways.

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Template taken from the plans for the section aft of the Mainmast.

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These additional areas of the lower deck are planked using cannibalised maple deck sections left over from my Sphinx build, and I knocked up grating sets that are pretty much the same as the Gundeck arrangement.

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Temporary rough fitting of the gundeck gives a sense of what may be glimpsed on the lower deck.

This will I hope give the illusion of a fitted out Lower deck limited as the view will probably be.

 

B.E.

13/03/2023

[hollowneck]

B.E., very nice, good progress. I keep inspecting your build photos for Wallace whom I spotted early-on.

Perhaps he's gone walkabout, not about to be Pressed!

[Kevin]

Looking Great BE

[Hubac's Historian]

Well, this is something to get excited about!  You never disappoint, B.E., and I'll be following along with great interest.  This looks to be a fabulously engineered kit.

[CaptnBirdseye]

Impressive build so far. Really like the idea of the false lower deck and the way you've created it 👍

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ron, Kevin, Marc, and Capt. Birdseye.

 

Chapter five

Framing the Gunports.

This is an ingenious method devised by Chris that gives a nod to the Plank on Frame method and removes all that testy business of cutting ports into a hull.

The longitudinal stringers that form the top and bottom of the gunports are now fitted.

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I fitted the rear gunport strips from the stern forward, I found it easier to locate the two aftermost slots fully into the  bulkheads.

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These are followed by vertical risers that complete the port framing. They are position specific so care has to be taken in their fitting.

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The parts fit together beautifully, and at this stage of the build it is rather like doing a 3-d jigsaw puzzle, but without the puzzle element.

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I’m loving the look of her even at this stage, I think you will all agree she is an impressive sight.

Chris must be well pleased with the fruits of his labour.

 

The next stage is fitting the gundeck, but at this point I am going ‘off piste’, as I have some modifications to work out given the ‘Navy Board’ style of my build.

 

B.E.

15/03/2023

 

[Gus M]

Impressive work, amazing progress 

[Blue Ensign]

Chapter Six

 

Modifying the Gundeck

The Gundeck will remain largely intact, but Chris has been kind enough to provide the interesting little feature of the ladderway down to the Orlop.

This will be hidden under the standard arrangement but I want to reveal it. It adds to the illusion of a fully fitted out model.

My idea is to remove that section of the deck between the Fore hatch and the Riding Bitts, but I will need to add carlings.

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A template is used to check exactly where and what may be seen.

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The Riding Bitt standards are test fitted as these will have a direct bearing on where the carlings are placed.

 

The other thing to consider is avoiding opened up spaces looking like a standard feature.

In the case of the ladderway to the Orlop if I leave a minimal square opening in the Gundeck above, to allow it to be seen, that could look like another hatchway opening.

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To counter this the unplanked area across the deck is extended and will allow a greater view of the lower deck in this area.

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The effect is completed by representations of the carlings and ledges.

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3mm x 2.5mm pearwood square stock was used for the carlings, and 2 x2mm for the Ledges.

 

 

B.E.

16/03/2023

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Very nice idea! 

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Rusty 👍

 

Chapter Seven

 

 Deck fitting.

My initial attempt at dry fitting indicated a mismatch between the two deck halves just shy of 1mm.

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This was quite disconcerting as I note that Kevin reported in his log -  the main deck went down without any issues -  where have I gone wrong, thinks I.😬

The retaining slots were cleaned using an emery board, close attention paid to the seating– but the mismatch remained.

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The port side half aligned with the deck beams but the starboard side alignment remained stubbornly a fraction out.

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After a lot of faffing around I decided to tweak the slots of the starboard side, taking a sliver off the aft edge of the slots which allowed to section to move forward to align the cut-outs. The depth of the slots  around the bow area was also deepened by a sliver which allowed the centre lines to meet without overlap.

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The deck halves now sit down nicely, with the masts and the all-important riding bitts slotting into place.

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Happy with the deck fit I can now remove the deck section to reveal the lower deck and Orlop ladderway.

 

In fitting the deck I perceived that there is a potential weak area around the Mainmast where there is a lack of deck support. I added a beam just aft of the Mainmast to span the gap to provide this.

 

Satisfied with the result I can now move onto fitting the deck.

 

Gluing decks can be a fraught exercise, particularly on a deck of this size, where the glue can start to go off before the deck is in place. This is exacerbated if there is any last-minute fumbling in locating the deck.

 

Certainly in this case, I didn’t think it necessary to glue both deck halves at the same time. Separate halves will reduce the time before glue contact is made.

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I glued the Port side first using slightly diluted pva brushed onto the deck beams, the starboard side slipped into place and the deck weighted.

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Job done, and moving on…

 

B.E.

17/03/2023

 

 

 

 

[Kevin]

well im glad you sorted the deck issue out

[hollowneck]

On 3/15/2023 at 5:56 AM, Blue Ensign said:

I’m loving the look of her even at this stage, I think you will all agree she is an impressive sight.

Chris must be well pleased with the fruits of his labour.

 

Oh My! I was wrong and spoke too soon: There's Wallace!

May I suggest you consider asking him if he'll volunteer to be your Indy's figurehead?

 

I like your simple solution on the deck fitting; I recall my HMS Ardent (Chris' Agamemnon - a 64) build presented a similar issue: glue drying before both halves were properly in-place. I remember using long paintbrushes with diluted PVA to reach into the nooks n' crannies to ensure the deck was adhering across the (minimal) beams.

Edited March 17, 2023 by hollowneck

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Kevin, and Ron.

@ Ron - I don't think Wallace has sufficient gravitas to grace the head of such a fine frigate, besides he's  a very inventive fellow, where do you think I get my ideas from. He's gone off now for a nice bit of Wensleydale.

 

Post Eight

 

Stern and upperworks Framing

The stern area of the model is way ahead even of Sphinx in terms of authenticity.

With this design Chris has saved me a lot of time and effort modifying the stern interior area to create a realistic great cabin and Quarter galleries.

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The framed doorway to the Qtr Galleries, if you want this on Sphinx you have to do it yourself.

This stage is mostly click and fit, and the framework rises with almost minimal effort altho’ some of the parts are delicate and require gentle handling.

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In this phase parts #48, fillers for the cabin decking, require some shaping in the form of a slight bevel to match the deck camber, a section of frame 18 is removed, using a micro saw, as with the Qtr gallery door openings. – that’s it!

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It is almost incredible that building the hull to this stage has taken me only eight days, but progress will slow now as the  less interesting but all important aspect of sanding and fairing beckons.

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I think this stage marks the end of the ‘honeymoon’ period of this build. Going forward things will get more complex requiring greater skill levels and attention to finishing.

 

B.E.

18/03/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Nine.

 

Basics

Today I took time out to prepare a building board for Indy.

A plain board of 900 x 245mm indicates the size of this beast.

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Battens are placed on the underside to both raise the board a little and provide  space for finger grips, this is /will be a heavy hull to move about. The space is also good for clamping purposes.

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The board is firstly configured for securing the false keel, but will later be modified to hold the keel, full hull, stem and stern posts.

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Simple corner brackets are used for the purpose.

 

I spoke in an earlier post about getting an additional Amati keel clamp to support the long and heavy hull when I require to hold it higher or at angles.

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I was a little reluctant to pay out the £50 for a new one but as luck would have it I managed to get one on an e-bay auction for the princely sum of £24. It arrived quickly and is in excellent condition, better than my original.

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This should provide the necessary stability for angling the hull when required.

 

B.E.

19/O3/2023

 

[Gus M]

Thank you, I take "note"of this, thanks for sharing 

[hollowneck]

On 3/18/2023 at 7:52 AM, Blue Ensign said:

He's gone off now for a nice bit of Wensleydale.

I'm pleased you keep Wallace in your shop for inspiration. That new build board is brilliant, very inventive! But I still like that you doubled-down on another (bargain) Amati keel clamper.

And I must add....mmmmmm (lip-smacking sounds)...Wensleydale with cranberries on cream crackers. Nearly as good as scones with clotted cream at teatime

.

 

 

 

Edited March 19, 2023 by hollowneck

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ron, 

I do prefer my cheese unadorned, and preferably with a glass or three of a fine merlot. To sit outside on a fine summer evening, after a satisfying day in the workshop, or out walking the hills with my Spaniel, - perfection. 😊

 

Dammit Ron, you’ve put me in mind for the very thing😉

 

Cheers, 🧀🍷

B.E

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Ten.

 

Internal bulkhead frames – sanding – what joy!

The purpose here is to get a smooth line to which attach the inner bulwarks, quick works in 18thc parlance. The spirketting will be added later.

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I found it easier to sand the frames with the hull upright, using a combination of an angled finger sander and sheet paper cut to size. Working from the opposite side, my free hand supporting the bulkhead extensions.

Contrary to this posed photo, it is advisable to work with bare lower arms to avoid snagging cuffs etc on the bulkhead extensions.

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I used a combination of 80/120 grade papers.

The fit of these parts is very good, a slight bevel on the leading edge of the foremost (optional) part all that was required.

 

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The fit along the deck line is very clean, as are the three join lines between the four sections. The top-line rises a fraction above the upper longitudinal gunport rail which will be sanded flush with the Longitudinal top rail.

Under clamps the sections  seemed to conform well to the framing without the need for wetting. I did blast them with heat under clamping.

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I applied the starboard side sections sequentially, applying pva directly to the frames to enhance adhesion it was then left overnight to cure.

The procedure was repeated on the Port side next morning.

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Atop the longitudinal rails are fitted the deck beam strips (Deck clamps) which slotted into the bulkheads without issue. Into these the Upper deck beams are slotted, again without any issues.

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 I also took the opportunity to add carlings below the hatchway openings of the deck. I really don’t like to see those thin edges of the false deck, particularly  for ladderways and hatches with the gratings removed.

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The foremost deck beam incorporates a representation of the Bowsprit stop. This will be removed and re-set some 15mm further back between the legs of the Fore Topsail bitts, which will then allow the manger boards to be installed.

 

The inboard face of Bulkhead 1 is disguised in shades of black and grey. In an oob build this area is hidden but with my build the Gundeck will be visible thro’ the unplanked upper deck.

It is another smoke and mirrors device to help mask this pob construction compromise.

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The Upper deck beams fitted across the deck and slotted seamlessly into place. It is useful having the reference numbers stamped on both beams and clamps.

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Once the fit is established the ‘clamping’ strips are glued into place and the beams removed for a later stage.

 

I now need to stiffen my resolve to begin the hull fairing.

B.E.

22/03/23

[Kevin]

lovely work BE all that work will pay dividends, im only slightly ahead of you at present 

[Paryzek]

I'm glad it's going well. I'm watching from the front row.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Kevin, and Pavel.

@ Kevin - I think 'only slightly ahead' is slightly understating it. 😁

@ Pavel - Thankyou for looking in on my build.👍

 

Post Eleven

 

Fairing the Hull.

This is such a big beast, I couldn’t quite decide the best way to approach the fairing business.

Not easy to hold while fairing, altho’ holding at angles during the process is almost a certainty.

 

I finally decided that having the hull inverted was the best approach, so I knocked up a simple jig to hold it inverted.

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This consists of nothing more than styrene packing material cut to fit snuggly inside the hull and hold it clear of the base during the process.

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The packing should protect the delicate bulkhead extensions.

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Battens were fitted to the board to hold the hull in place during the sanding.

This arrangement will also double up for the planking and coppering of the hull.

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All the necessary stuff is assembled, but I won’t be doing the fairing in my workroom, too much dust.

I need to wait for a quiet, mild day, without the gusting winds we have at present. The forecast for these ‘ere parts doesn’t look that brilliant over the next few days, so I may return to the small boatyard and Medway.

 

B.E.

23/03/23

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Twelve.

 

Hull fairing - Day 0ne

Considering this is one of my least favourite aspects of ship modelling, the day went well.

The support board held the hull securely, and the ‘Mouse’ sander performed well.

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I started with the hull upright and sanded the topsides down to gundeck level.

I started with vertical strokes  on the  gunport side timbers, and followed on using a long sanding stick along the hull.

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The hull was then inverted and the ‘mouse’ brought into play. I used P80 sanding sheets.

I am grateful to Jim and Chris for the heads up on this little tool.

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This is the state after around three hours work.

 

Time now to test the plank lay.

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The 1mm thick lime strips bend easily around the bow without any need for pre-bending, but I will pre-bend when I start planking to take the resistance out of the wood.

 

I am particularly interested in the run of the planks up to the lower transom.

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To this end a test plank is pre-bent using hot water and heat.

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Looking ok so far, I hate to see any hint of a sharp angle in the plank runs in this area, they should have a smooth and even curve.

 

That’s enough for one day, I’ll look at it again tomorrow with a fresh eye.

 

B.E.

24/03/23

[Oldsalt1950]

Looks real good from the photos B.E. A job well done

 

Jim

[Kevin]

well done

[Gus M]

Looks great, thaks for sharing 

[markjay]

Nice curve and nice build at this point.

[Paryzek]

I prefer to grind by hand, so you can monitor the line better. Machine sanding saves a lot of work, but can make more mistakes.