Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[dvm27]

3 1/2 years!? Seems like yesterday you were just finishing up the Naiad frigate and pondering your next project. Time truly does accelerate the older you get. Bummed, but in great admiration of your masts and model in general.

[albert]

Superb work Ed, very nice.

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone.  I really appreciate the comments.

 

No secrets, Micheal.  I'll include a picture or two in the next post, when I do the coat for the main mast.  Basically just tissue, paper, some rope, glue and some tar (ie black artist acrylic).

 

Maury, the short answer is I do not know the specific reason for cabins.  I might speculate that rope would be subject to constant rubbing and potential failure as these 30' boats shifted back and forth.  These ships were equipped for the Cape.  As to the reference, I undoubtedly saw this in a photo and it stuck.  If I come across it I will report.

 

Greg, I had in my mind that it was 2 1/2 years.  It actually feels like about 1 1/2.  Question is, how many more will it take?

 

Ed 

[Mirabell61]

your work looks very well done Ed,

 

Nils

[michael mott]

1 hour ago, EdT said:

No secrets, Micheal.

I know, I was just kidding, but you knew that. I do look forward to seeing how you did it though.

 

Michael

[Charter33]

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.

 

Thank you.

 

Graham

[EdT]

Thank you, Graham.  Most kind.

 

Ed

[EdT]

 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 201 – Lower Mast Coats

 

When I decided to wedge the masts with pieced wedges, it was clear that some sort of mast coats would be required to cover the openings between wedges – not to keep out water as in real life practice, but to simulate the real coats and to improve the appearance at the bases of the masts.

 

Apart from terse descriptions, there was not a lot to go on in making these.  My usual search through photos gave some ideas, but ultimately the solution came from the question, "What would I do to make a watertight canvas 'flashing' over the mast wedges?"  I am comforted by the thought that many ships' carpenters asked similar questions – and came up with a variety of solutions - as the few pictures I have seen illustrate.

 

The canvas for the model coats is tissue and in the first picture a strip of this is being wound around the glue-coated main mast and its wedging.

 

 

Several strips were used with plenty of glue and not too much effort to smooth out the result.  Canvas would most definitely have wrinkles when forced into the required shape.  The next picture shows rope being tied around the top to clinch it tightly around the mast.

 

 

In practice the coat would have been caulked and tacked around the mast and deck, but rope cinches would keep it from tearing out from the nails and risking damage to the high-value cargo these ships often carried.

 

At the bottom, a flange was simulated using card and fitted around the mast at the base as shown in the next picture.

 

 

When this was glued in place and allowed to dry, a second rope cinch was added at the base.  The next picture shows the coat being "tarred" with fairly thick, dark grey, artists' acrylic paint,

 

 

After drying the coat was brushed with black, thinned, acrylic wash to highlight the wrinkles in the canvas and the ropes as shown below.

 

 

Those that have been following the project will note that the glistening brass pump wheels, by now well tarnished and lacking their original appeal, have been painted.  Next job for the painters, the equally tarnished poop monkey rail.

 

Other true followers may also notice in the picture that I have finally gotten around to adding the central posts to the fore and aft fife rails that were previously omitted.

 

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[druxey]

A very nice simulation of the 'boot', Ed.

[michael mott]

The 'boot' looks very convincing Ed.

 

Michael

[Scoot]

Are you having fun Ed?  It sure looks it.

 

Scoot

[Sailor1234567890]

I'm in awe.

[rwiederrich]

Ed...as I've said it before...you are my example...and going before me...you lay down the standard and give the teachers example to follow.

 

Rob

[Capt.Bob]

Ed,

How do you blacken copper wire ends with LoS without staining the wood?  I'm finishing up the bilge ceiling.

[EdT]

Bob,

 

I have found that copper can be blackened with LOS without effecting surrounding wood.  The wood needs to be clean of any metal sanding dust and the LOS needs to be fairly dilute.  When leveling off boltheads, files produce less fine dust than sanding but the surface should be wiped clean before treating.  LOS solutions seem to neutralize to water and inert white solids and leave no reactive residues, unlike salt based blackeners like the blue selenium based solutions.  You may also wish to rinse with clean water.  While I have found this to be the case, some testing is always worthwhile to understand the right LOS dilution as well as the need for pre-cleaning.

 

Ed

[Capt.Bob]

Ed,

 

Got it.  Made several concentrations in an attempt to find a workable minimum.  Somewhere between 40 & 50:1 got the job done and left no residual staining.  Moving on to the common planking.

 

[Erebus and Terror]

Beautiful work, Ed. I'm in awe of your progress. 

[EdT]

Thanks, E&T and others for the likes,

 

Bob, you are more scientific than I am.  I put about 1/8" of water in a small plastic bathroom cup, dip a small brush in LOS gel, and then stir it around in the cup, then use it immediately - either brushing it on or dropping small parts into the cup.    Color of the clear solution is my measure - not too dark.

 

Ed.  

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 202 – More of the same - Tops

 

Seeing pictures of Young America's tops may be getting tedious, but repetition is the soul of ship modeling, so I will show some more.  There is not much else to do at this stage.  First are the six mizzen top deadeyes, almost ready to be installed.

 

 

 

These are 8" (~.11" in diameter) – not the smallest.  There are some 6".  These were dyed, finished with Tung oil, and then drilled.  This keeps the heavy soak in oil from clogging holes.  In the picture they have just dried after dipping in LOS with their straps attached.  They will get a light buffing with Tung before being fitted.  I've tried different sequences.  This seems to be the best.

 

The next picture shows these - after some more finishing - installed in the rim of the top.

 

 

The top and mast head have been trimmed out with bands, eyebolts, topmast fid plates, and chafing battens.  The next picture is a view from astern.

 

 

 

And finally, the full lower mast from above.

 

 

 

The next picture shows the foretop with the roughed-out mast cap fitted. 

 

 

 

These are coming up on the agenda.  They have some interesting ironwork for the lower topsail yard fittings and for the lower yard topping lift block fastenings.

 

All is at a bit of a standstill however, as the shipyard has become a woodworking shop for a few days as may be seen below.

 

 

These are the frames for the dust case mentioned in an earlier post.  It will also serve as an ever-present photo background for the rigging work.  Its turning into one of those projects that lasts, because of trying to do it on the cheap.  The wood is scrap from my collection – not a problem – but the plan was to use less expensive photo background paper over it, instead of the foam board I used on Victory – until one newly papered frame got punctured leaning against a not-too-sharp corner and a floor broom tipped over and fell through one.  Foam board is on order ($50).  Stay tuned.

 

 

Ed

[archjofo]

Hello Ed,

 

I am always enthusiastic about this great performance.

[druxey]

Ah, those treacherous brooms! Had you thought of light cotton duck as a covering material?

[JerryTodd]

Or staple on some bed-sheet from the thrift shop.

 

[cog]

Ed,

 

I keep on forgetting about the LOS, maybe because I can't find it in local stores. Had to get silver soldering paste from Germany (got an address through Archjofo/Johann)

 

Considering the foto/dust booth, I would, as the two former writers, advise on cloth (cotton, or linnen). If possible make it so you can change colours, as it largely depends on the ship's colours whether you should use white, ivory, grey, or another colour. If you can make the left and right side go roundish through the corner, it will be easier with lighting, and cloth is easier to handle for that. You might have this thought out already, just my two pennies

 

Cheers

[albert]

Superb work Ed, bravissimo

[EdT]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.  Fabric seems a logical choice.  I did not consider this because I did not want the weave as a photo backdrop.  I take so many pictures for the blog and the books that I do not want to tinker with getting the backdrop out of focus on each shot.  I take almost all at maximum depth of field.   Also, fabric collects dust and is not impervious to fine sanding dust that is ever present in my combination shipyard/woodworking shop.  The corners need to be inconspicuous , but the side panels must be easily removable to work on the model, so wrapping clothing over the inside corners won't work.   The idea I had for paper corners did not work as well as I had hoped.  Fabric must also be stretched to avoid wrinkles, so the frames would need to be heavier to keep straight and seal at the sides.  I used foam board for the Victory case, which, unfortunately is too small for this model.  It is durable, can easily be wiped down, can be fit tightly at the corners, and, I hope, the center seams on the large (60" x 38") side panels can be masked in some way.  So, I always had a solution, but thought I could go cheap with that large roll of paper on hand.  Never works.  I also confess to perhaps overthinking the problem - something I'm good at.

 

Ed

[realworkingsailor]

Hi Ed,

 

Have you considered Sheet styrene? Not the stuff the hobby suppliers sell, but the large size stuff for industrial/commercial use. It still comes in "standard" hobby thicknesses (0.020" or 0.030") for example, but for a reasonable price you get a good sized sheet. Have a look: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22883

 

Andy

[michael mott]

The nice thing about the .030" styrene is you can just hang it on a few pins which makes it very easy to remove. A word or caution regarding static, you would need to have some anti static solution similar to the wipes for large scree TV's.

 

As Andy says a very inexpensive solution.

 

Michael

[EdT]

I did not consider sheet styrene, Andy. Interesting suggestion.   Thanks.

 

Ed

[Stuntflyer]

Ed,

 

I might have missed it somewhere in your log, but I'm a bit curious as to why you're not to staying with foam core. Couldn't you make a slot to hold it in place for easy removal later?

 

Mike

[EdT]

Hi Mike.  Comments and my replies might be confusing.  I am going to use foam board, 1/4" Elmer's white, which is what I used on the Victory dust case about 10 years ago.  I do not want to use slotted frames this time because I don't want the frames to be visible inside - no inside fasteners either - so the foam board will be glued to the insides of the frames in a way to minimize showing corners and joints.  I should have this done in a few days and will show some pics.

 

Ed