Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[gjdale]

Excellent dissertation (if not "tutorial") Ed. Looks like it is well worth the extra time at the computer to save time and effort in the shipyard later.

[harvey1847]

What a beautiful picture Ed!

 

I have been looking at it for minutes and minutes... This guys were not dealing with proxxon or sherline machines but with quite big stuff. All those chains and wood wedges under an enormous tension, look so real. I was wondering what it is the big structure in the back of the pic. Looks like the stern of clipper. Might be a crane but with all that scalffolding and twood poles looks like a piece of ship to me.

 

Beautiful explanation anyway. Green goes Red Stop. Makes sense to me.

 

Good luck with the aft frames!

 

 

Daniel.

Edited December 3, 2013 by harvey1847

[EdT]

Daniel, I have no idea what that structure is in the background of the picture. I am guessing this picture is WWI vintage. I believe the tools being used are "Little David" pneumatic drill and hammer made by Ingersoll-Rand, probably introduced in th early 1900's, long after Young America. Tey were widely used in shipyards for drilling, driving caulking. If anyone has any data on these tools and when they were introduced, I would be very interested.

 

Grant, the amount of time added to the lofting of each frame pairis minimal and well worth it. With the body plan profiles available, a pair of frames is being lofted in about 20-25 minutes, using a standard template worksheet fo development of the patterns and standard presentation/printing formats included. Adding indexed bolts adds a few minutes. I burn out after doing about 5 of these.

 

 

Ed

Edited December 4, 2013 by EdT

[michael mott]

Ed I am learning a great deal working through your comments about how you are designing and Lofting your plans. I am curious about what programs you are using.

I am familiar with Corel Draw 11 and Autocad Lt 2000 and I have been applying some of the same techniques to my own drawing based on your lead.

 

Michael

[EdT]

Micheal,

 

I used Visio Technical 4.1 (no longer available) for the Naiad drawings and switched to TurboCad Deluxe 17 for the current work. I suspect it is similar to AutoCad light but I do not know. It sells for less than $100 - or did. It has much more capability than I will ever use and much more than is needed for this work. Downloading and printing the relevant Chapters of the full 750 page User Guide was was extremely helpful, perhaps essential.

 

Also, I use Corel Paintshop Pro for image processing. I also use Adobe Acrobat for pdf work and Adobe InDesign for book page layout. I use Excel for a lot of data recording - for example the 20 pages of various offsets for the YA hull, the dimension conversion charts, scantlings lists and many other uses. I also use Word a lot - for example, writing the postings.

 

I am still running all this on Windows XP SP3 on an Intel Quad 2.67 GHz with 2 Gb of Ram. Ram and afast video card may be important for large Cad drawings. I have Vista on my laptop and don't like it. My wife is running Windows 7 and I will probably switch to that at some point.

 

That's probably more than you wanted to know, but there it is.

 

Ed

[michael mott]

Ed, thank you for your detailed explanation, yes windows XP is a stable platform simple but good enough for me, I think our desktops are similar. I also have a large screen, I cannot see the small screens clearly enough.

 

Michael

[EdT]

I should probably be using a larger screen as well.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 29 – Aft Square Frames
 
Framing aft of frame 0 has been proceeding well over the past few days.  I have adopted a new alignment method that I will describe in this part.
 
The first picture shows frame 1 installed.  Instead of using temporary wood chocks to hold frame alignment and spacing, I decided to try and use the temporary ribbands. These are at the height of the planksheer.  I left them long, anticipating this.
 

 
The next picture shows more frames installed.
 

 
The heights of the cross-spalls in this picture are irregular because they are set down on the aft top timbers and these have been left slightly long for cutting down later.  Each spall sets the breadth of the frame accurately, however, and is center marked.
 
The next picture shows another view of the overall hull, and displays the normal cluttered state of the shipyard.
 

 
Another view from aft.
 

 
In the next picture, an assembled frame – frame 9 – with its patterns still on, is being test fit after beveling.
 

 
All of these frames are being pre-beveled to the lines on the patterns.  The next step is to remove the patterns and downsize the sidings of the upper timbers.  This cannot be done until the frames are beveled and the patterns removed.
 
In the next picture the frame has been clamped to the ribbands at the top and positioned accurately with its floor centered down on the keel.  The maximum breadth of the frame is then checked by squaring up from the base drawing.   A hole for the model bolt is being drilled.
 

 
Because of interference with the spall, the hole will be angled aft slightly.  A short pin is then inserted to hold the position.  The clamps are then removed and the frame lifted slightly to spread glue on the keel.  The pin is then driven home to secure the joint.
 
Before the glue has set the toptimbers are aligned using the spacer block in the next picture.  The caliper is set from the drawing to the height of the bottom of the planksheer rail so that will be at the correct height at each frame..
 

 
The next picture shows a closeup of the spacer block.  Its width has been sized to 23” – the spacing between frame lines in the area (32”) minus the siding of the toptimber (9”)
 

 
A pinhole has been drilled through the toptimber and the temporary pin bent over to hold the frame tight to the ribband.  The half breadth of the frame is then rechecked using a square from the the line on the base drawing.
 
This method is not only much faster and less messy than using the spacers, but pulls the frames into a fair line at the top.  If made to the pattern and beveled accurately to the profile lines, the frames should be pretty well faired when erected.  So far, that is the case.  We will see how this holds up as the bevels increase with each new frame going aft.
 
Ed

Edited March 17, 2014 by EdT

[mati]

It's always pleasure to see your update!
Beautiful work from the hands of real craftsman!

Best regards,
Matt

Edited December 5, 2013 by mati

[Trussben]

Wow ED, you show yet another way how to accomplish the difficult while making it look easy! More tips for when I start Pegasus.

 

Ben

[rwiederrich]

Super job Ed...super job.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 30 – Aft Square Frames 2

 

At this stage the first 15 full frames aft of 0 have been set.  The first picture shows frames 16, 17 and 18, right after inserting their bolts.  These are ready to be installed.

 

 

The next picture shows the hole being drilled for a pin on the port side of frame 16.  A bent pin in this hole will secure the top on this side of the frame to the ribband strip.

 

 

I mentioned earlier that a wood block is used to space the frame and the caliper to set the height of the ribband to the bottom of the planksheer rail.  That rail will be added much later.

 

The next picture was taken after frames 16 and 17 were erected. 

 

 

At this stage the ends of the temporary ribbands were reached.  The next picture shows work to extend the ribbands.  Setting frames using the ribbands has been a major time saver and helped get the frames into faired lines.

 

 

Connecting strips are being glued to the bottom of the existing ribbands.  The next picture shows the ribband extensions being glued on.  The “gantry” is being used to hold clamped guides the set the height and breadth of the ribbands at that position along the hull.

 

 

The gantry can be moved and the guides set at any given position.  The next picture shows another view of the hull with the extended ribbands.

 

 

In the last picture frame 18 has been installed and pinned to the ribband extensions.

 

 

The length of the hull – and the eventual size of the model are starting to become apparent.  It is really long and slender.  By way of comparison, Naiad was 147 feet long with a breadth of roughly 39 feet – an L/D ratio of roughly 3.7 to 1.  Young America had a length of 240 feet and a breadth of 43 feet – an L/D ratio of 5.6 to 1.

 

There are now 11 more full frames to install.  19, 20 and 21 are in fabrication.  22, 23 and 24 have been lofted.  After installing the last full frame - number 29 -  the keelson and aft deadwood assemblies will be completed to prepare for the half and cant frames.

 

Ed

Edited March 17, 2014 by EdT

[capnharv2]

Ed,

 

Amazing work as always!

 

Question (maybe you've answered this before)-What is the tool you're using for drilling? It looks a lot handier and managable for those small holes than a Dremel.

 

Thanks again for you build log(s). They (and your books) are always a joy to see.

 

Harvey

[Sailor1234567890]

We're both model building but I'm not even close to that calibre. I'm not in the ballpark, I'm not even playing the same sport... Beautiful work. I love clippers and really look forward to seeing what she looks like once you've got a hull there. Keep up the awesome work.

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone for your comments and the 17 "likes" on the last post.

 

Harvey, the tool is a Wecheer Rotary detail carver by Flexcut.  You're right.  It is very much easier to manage for small holes and carving than the larger more powerful Dremel tools.  They are also inexpensive.  They make other models and related tools as well.  I use this tool all the time for hand drilling.  The tool also takes Dremel collets. 

 

Here is a link:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-ROTARY-DETAIL-CARVER/dp/B0002IXNK4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1386766604&sr=8-2&keywords=Wecheer

 

Ed

[Walter Biles]

Ed,  Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

 

I really admire your building board and how you are doing the ribband and spall spacing.  With the various clamp on allignment fittings, you have a masterful assembly.  I have recently added some of the simpler of the clamps to my tools.  They are wonderful.  I never realized how much trouble the store bought ones were to use until I got these made.  Keep up the good work. 

 

Walter Biles

[EdT]

Thank you, Walt.  I believe the simple style of clamp is the most practical of the two types.  They are easy and inexpensive to make and so they support the golden rule of clamps,  i.e. you can never have enough.  They are not as fancy, but they do most of the things the more complicated flexible type do.

 

Best holiday wishes to you as well.

 

Ed

[Alexi]

Ed, 

A joy to watch your progress as always.  

 

One question: I may have missed the explanation somewhere, but it looks like one of the frames on the port side of the model doesn't extend above your temporary ribband, creating a gap in the current appearance.  I couldn't help but wonder what this is for - seems too far aft for an anchor port.  Just curious.

[EdT]

Thank you, Alexi.

 

I probably should have mentioned that missing toptimber, since it does catch your eye.  I removed it for some reason - can't recall now.  It may have been badly misaligned or damaged.  I will replace it later.  Also, I am sure there will be others that will require replacement when I get to their final fairing and alignment.

 

Ed 

[Maury S]

Ed, Aligning with the ribands certainly makes it look easier (and better).

Love it!

Maury

[harvey1847]

Hello Ed!

 

Remember post #149 ...

 

 

With the keel assembly constructed and set up on the shipway, the next major task will be framing.  There are many frames and I expect this will take months.

 

Well, it has taken you eight weeks to get till here. Amazing!!

 

With that rate by the end of the year you might complete the whole hull...

 

daniel.

[EdT]

Yes, Daniel, the framing work is going faster than I thought.  I attribute this to the pin-indexed patterns and assembly process.  I assembled the parts of three frame pairs in less than an hour yesterday.  Also, the frame pairs are simpler on this ship than on the 18C RN ships.

 

End of the year?  I doubt it.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 31 – Aft Square Frames 3
 
The installation of the remaing full square frames has now been completed – back through frame 29. 
 
Starting with frame 21, the cutting down line begins to rise.  This is the line of the inboard faces of the frames adjacent to the keelson.  However, unlike the 18thC RN ships,  the keelson remains straight and horizontal all the way back to the stern post knee in these ships.  So the tops of the full frames need to be notched as shown in the first picture – to accept the straight keelson.
 

 
This notching of the last several full frames increases the thickness – the molded breadth – of the lower part of the frames so that when the first half frame is reached there will be enough depth for that frame to be secured with horizontal bolts to the keelson/deadwood.  That increased depth needs to be approached in a fair line so the inboard planking will lie flat on the frames with no steps up.
 
The next picture shows the last of the full frames installed – back to the filler piece atop the keel.  The remaining aft frames will be bolted on the face of this filler and the keelson/deadwood with horizontal bolts – as was done at the bow.
 

 
This picture shows the gradually increasing height of the cutting down line over the last half-dozen or so frames.  The straight lower keelson will fit into the notches.
 
The remaining three pictures show the framed hull at this stage – with the clutter of tools and debris removed..
 

 
Another foot or so of hull framing remains to be done – almost back to the ends of the two temporary ribbands.
 

 
The last picture gives some indication of the fairing of the hull at this stage.  Only the pre-bevelling of the individual frames has been done so far.  The frames appear to be fair with about 1/64”.  Some adjustment in alignment of a few frames may reduce that further, leaving only a small amount of final sanding.
 

 
The next steps will be to refine the fairing of the floors on the inboard side prior to installing the remainder of the keelson.  It is much easier to do this before the keelson is installed.  With the two levels of the keelson installed, .the deadwood can be constructed.  This will allow the half and cant frames to be set.
 
Since this will be the last post before Christmas, I will wish everyone the happiest of holidays and a great new year.  Thanks for following these postings.
 
Ed

Edited March 17, 2014 by EdT

[Sailor1234567890]

Looking sweet there. Only problem is your last comment. No more posts until the new year.

Have a great Christmas season Ed. Look forward to upcoming posts next year.

[rwiederrich]

Great production Ed and beautiful lines....top notch modeling...for sure.

 

Merry Christmas to you as well.....

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

We're both model building but I'm not even close to that calibre. I'm not in the ballpark, I'm not even playing the same sport... Beautiful work. I love clippers and really look forward to seeing what she looks like once you've got a hull there. Keep up the awesome work.

I concur Sailor. Sometimes I wonder if I'm even on the same subject as Ed and others. His attention to detail and process is amazing to say the least...I feel I'm a near beginner compared to his ability.....or maybe I'm just lazier.

 

Merry Christmas.

 

Rob

[klimi]

Nice work Ed   i admire everyone who is building real scale model. Earlyer i dind like so much clippers, but now i discovered hers beauty. The dynamic shape of the hull is brilant. keep building

 

Pavel

[Elia]

Ed,

 

Young America looks tremendous in those isometric style photos. Very fine work on those last full frames and their interface to the keel, and the notching for the keelson.

 

May you and your family have very happy holidays.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[allanyed]

Your framing does her beautifully designed lines justice.  If her frames were steel, her bow looks like it could have been framed for 20th century frigate or destroyer.  Sweet

 

Allan

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone - for the comments and he "likes". I have been trying to stay out of the workshop because I have so many chores to do over the next few days, but I may sneak in there to cut a few keelson scarphs when someone isn't looking.

 

Again, happiest of holiday seasons to everyone.

 

Ed