Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[BANYAN]

Thanks for taking the time to explain and share the dimensions of your jigs Ed, very much appreciated.  Now that I understand the principle it all makes sense and shows the experience you bring with your ideas.

 

Your YA books are on my Christmas list   I have recently trawled your Naiad volumes again, and find the information and practical advice relevant to all model building, kit bashing as well as scratch building any model, very helpful.  The Masting and Rigging volume of YA will be particularly valuable as most reference books, except for David Antscherl's Vol 4 of TFFM, only address the principles of these disciplines ;whereas, your effort is written with a more practical aspect of "how to".  As YA is more relevant to my era of interest, I will find this log and your forthcoming volume very helpful.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 227 – Fore Mast Cap

 

The fore mast cap, like the bowsprit cap, was fairly easy to make because both holes in both caps were 18" square or round and this converts to a very convenient ¼" cutting tool size at 1:72 scale.  The other 8 caps to be made are not so convenient.  A process for making those will be described later.

 

The wood cap shown below was first bored for the two holes, accurately spaced.  The aft hole was then squared with files. 

 

 

The picture shows the straightened copper strip that will be used for the band around the cap.  This is large and heavy because it must support the lower topsail yard Howes truss.  The cap itself is shown with a strip of masking tape around it perimeter.  This served as a gauge for the length of copper strip needed for the band.  The tape was transferred to the bench so the copper strip could be marked out as shown in the next picture.

 

In the next picture the band has been silver soldered to form the band and that has been fit over the cap.

In the picture, two bits of telescoping copper tube are shown.  These were combined and soldered to form a heavy boss that was then soldered to the forward end of the cap as shown below.

The tubing boss was filed flat on one side to fit against the band as shown.  The band joint may also be seen in this picture.

 

The lower caps are each fitted with an iron bar with eyes at the ends.  These support double blocks that take the lower yard topping lifts.  To make this piece, the concave aft face was first filed out and the holes for the eyes and the mounting bolts center-marked as shown below.

 

After drilling the holes, the bar was filed to its final shape and polished as shown in the next picture.

 

This also shows the blackened cap band.  The topping lift blocks will be shackled to the eyes in the bar.  Again, because the shackles are soldered assemblies, this must be done before fitting the bar to the wood cap.  In the next picture a shackle has been soldered at one end of the bar.

 

 

With the shackle made, the blocks were fitted.  It is much (very much) easier to strap and attach the blocks on the bench, so these were installed next.  In the next picture, the bar is being bolted to the cap.

 

 

One of the copper "bolts" is being inserted through the bar and into an undersized hole in the wood cap.  These were then cut off just above the bar and riveted flat to hold the bar.  Bolts through the forward end of the band were also added on either side of the boss to keep the band in place under the weight of the yard.  Five eyebolts are also installed in the cap at this stage – four on the underside and one aft through the band. The bolt heads and the blackening that was scuffed during this work was then touched up with a brushing of liver of sulfur solution.  The finished cap, still wet from the solution is shown below.

 

 

In the last picture the cap is temporarily fitted to the masthead with the topmast.

 

 

The top of the lower mast head tenon has been filed flush.  Before the topmast and the cap is permanently installed further work on the mast is needed – futtock band, crosstrees, futtock shrouds, etc. -.  All this must be done with the mast inserted through the cap.

 

I omitted the 1" lining between mast and cap in favor of a tight, unglued fit for the topmast and to avoid the complication of the very thin lining.

 

 

Ed

[druxey]

Beautiful metalwork, Ed!

[Maury S]

Surely the very thin lining will be added later?

Maury

[EdT]

Thanks for the comments, Druxey and Maury and to others for the likes on the last post.

 

There is a lot of metalwork on this model, Druxey, so maybe I'm improving with practice.  I am getting used to the self-igniting, refillable butane torch,  but I cannot get the flame as small as on my other torch - and does the self-igniter ever work on the first try??  Still, its more convenient than lighting up my other torch each time.  Also, I found a major improvement upon purchasing fresh LOS gel.  This stuff definitely has a shelf life.  The new stuff can be dispensed a drop at a time from its squeeze bottle - better control and less exposure to air.

 

Maury, after wracking my brain on how to line the caps - simulating the leather lining - I finally decided the disadvantages outweighed the visual value.  The lining  gaps on these were about 1/2" - .007" at 1:72 - not worth it.  The best thought I had about doing this was to wrap something around the mast before sliding into the hole, but I could see problems with that.  Someone may wish to try it.

 

Pat and Micheal, I never responded to your last posts.  I do appreciate your comments on process descriptions in the books as well as lesser descriptions in the posts.  I am always glad to hear that the book style - going into a lot of how-to detail with pictures, oriented to less experienced builders - is appreciated. My sense is that many new builders are looking for a foothold, so not taking a lot for granted in terms of skills seems appropriate.  At the same time there is a some fairly complex work on some parts, and if that can be made understandable it may be valuable for even some more experienced people.  My main disclaimer is that these are just descriptions of the way I am doing it and not a statement that these methods are superior to others.  Personally, I find explanations of how others are doing things to be the most important aspect of MSW.

 

Ed

[Tigersteve]

Ed,

I for one am definitely appreciative of your writing style and greatly looking forward to how it all comes together in volume 3. 

Steve

[EdT]

Me too, Steve.  With more than 700 lines on the model, there will definitely be some challenges in putting Volume III together - balancing the space available with the how-to focus, and with an adequate description of the amazing masting and rigging of this ship.  Should be fun.

 

Ed

[druxey]

I painted mast cap linings on the surface of the cap only: no-one can tell they don't line the hole!

[Sailor1234567890]

Ed, I have a solution to the "space available" problem you mention above. Make the book bigger.

[EdT]

Good idea, Druxey.

 

Sailor, you would not like the shipping costs - especially outside the US.  We all learned a lesson with Naiad II.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Ed, one idea (if not too late) for the leather; on my Endeavour I used Brown paper to simulate the leather lining - right thickness and very pliable.  I used a sharp pencil tip to simulate tacks where needed, and applied with dullcoat (lacquer) which stuck to the paper and provided a leather like look

 

cheers

 

Pat

[kees de mol]

Verry well done both on the wood and the metalwork.

[EdT]

Thanks, Pat and kees.  I'm getting the message that I should be thinking about doing the linings.  Thanks for the suggestion, Pat.

 

Ed

[druxey]

Here's a pic of my 'leathering' - just acrylic paint.

[EdT]

Thanks, Druxey.  I like it.

[Maury S]

Ed, I made the comment in jest.  And you could always rub a brown pencil against the inside of the hole like many do with planking if you are going that far.

Maury

[EdT]

I never thought otherwise, Maury, but I did consider doing it - and from Druxey's input it is certainly feasible, especially if you ignore the inside of the hole.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 228 – Ratlines 2

 

While focusing mainly on the foretopmast after the bowsprit work, I have been taking "recreational" time outs to work on that favorite task of "rattling down".  I showed pictures in an earlier post of making up ratlines with their end eye splices and some of these lashed on to the shrouds.  The actual production work of installing ratlines has now begun.  It begins with the making and fitting of staves at intervals up the shrouds.  These are shown on the main mast in the first picture.

 

 

These staves are very prominent in one of the photos of the ship, spaced after every fourth shroud and extending over the full gang of six.  The ratlines span only the shrouds aft of the first.  The staves maintain spacing between shrouds.  On the model they help maintain this spacing and the straightness of the shrouds when tying off the ratlines.  The heights of the staves permit four ratlines spaced at 13" to be placed between them.  The next picture shows foremast staves partially lashed to the shrouds.

 

 

The sheer poles just above the deadeyes were served iron rods, 1" in diameter.  The staves were more likely wood, but since they would have been tarred, the model material does not really matter.  I made these of bamboo, drawn down to under 1½" diameter stained black with India ink.  As may be seen in the photos, the .020" bamboo rods are quite stiff and straight, much more rigid than wire.  The next picture shows a closer view of the stave/shroud lashings.

 

 

After tying, the lashing are wetted with diluted, darkened PVA glue.  The purpose of the glue is only to secure the knots and keep them from loosening.  PVA glue has the advantage of being easily softened with isopropanol if lashings need to be removed.  After the glue has completely dried, the loose ends were carefully cut off using a surgical scalpel.  The next picture shows ratlines lashed between the staves.

 

 

The 1½" ratlines are No. 80 crocheting cotton stained black with diluted India Ink.  The end splices on the left were pre-made, then lashed to the aft shroud.  Clove hitches were then tied on the next three shrouds.  Height spacing of the four ratlines between staves was then adjusted before applying any glue.  In the top tier in the picture the lashings on the right have been tied and glued with the ratlines pulled through and suspended temporarily as shown.  In the tier below each splice was made by passing the line through itself with a needle, pulled to the left, and glued.  The excess line was then cut off as shown in the lowest tier in the photo.  All this looks a lot better when the excess lashing ends are gone.

 

The last picture digresses a bit, but answered one of my nagging questions.  It shows the fore topmast positioned to be rigged through the top.

 

 

 

 

The topmast is longer than the height of the top, raising the question of whether it required a deck scuttle to be used to position it for raising.  I assumed not when framing the deck, so the positioning of the mast in this picture was a comforting relief to someone like me who worries about this stuff.  As will be seen shortly, the model mast will be installed from above after fitting to the top.

 

 

Ed

[Mahuna]

Wonderful work, Ed.  Your attention to detail and research into actual practice continues to impress.

[druxey]

I've also found that the foot of a topmast, taken forward, can then be threaded up through the trestletrees. There is sufficient clearance to allow for this without resorting to scuttles. Those old-timers thought all this out for us!

[Maury S]

Ed, Are the staves temporary or permanent?

Maury

[EdT]

Thanks for the responses, guys.

 

Druxey, the old guys did us a lot of favors.  However, with the advent of double topsails and higher masts on clippers, some topmasts could not be slanted enough under the top and did require scuttles - at least that is what I have read.  Also, of interest, is that the lower yard would have to be removed, although some trusses seem to have been designed to allow the topmast to slide through the yoke - but then the height and angle would be even more of a problem.  I am glad that the YA mast lengths (at least the originals that I am using) did not cause this problem.

 

Maury, the staves are permanent and, as I mentioned, are visible pretty clearly in the two photos of the ship.  I have not found much useful data on material or size however.  My guess would be wood.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 229 – Fore Topmast 2

 

The first stages in making the fore topmast were described in Part 226.  There are just a few details to be added in this part.  The first picture shows the lower sheave ready to be installed.

 

 

All slots through the mast were cut with a 1/32" milling cutter, so in most cases some enlargement is required to accommodate other parts.  Slight enlargement of this sheave opening was done with the small diamond grit file in the picture to widen the slot to a scale 3".  The 2½" thick sheave with a diameter equal to the mast at its position was turned in brass on the lathe.  This sheave was used to raise the mast by means of a tackle hooked to the foremast cap.  The sheave is angled on the mast so the that rope will clear the close, square opening in the fore top.  The next picture shows the topmast fid.

 

 

The dimensions of this substantial piece of iron may be seen in the photo.  The slot for this piece was also widened with a small file.  The next picture shows the lower end of the topmast temporarily in position.

 

 

In practice the topmast would be raised up through the opening in the top and through the cap from below.  The mast would then be fitted with the futtock band and the crosstrees.  On the model the topmast will be slipped through the cap only, then fitted with the upper details including futtock shrouds.  Then the whole assembly will be set in place from above.  Because the futtock band will not fit through the cap, it was installed after the cap was slipped over the mast.  The method for fixing the band is shown in the next picture.

 

 

The band is placed below the hounds, which flare out to seat the crosstrees, so it cannot be pre-made and slipped over.  The tab shown in the picture was crimped to hold the band and also to simulate the bolted, clamping flange that would have been used.  Obviously this piece could not be soldered.  The band will be fixed to its position when the four futtock shroud eyebolts are added through holes drilled in the band and into the mast.  The completed band and eyebolts are shown in the next picture.

 

The picture also shows the sheave for the upper topsail halyard tie installed, as well as the seat at the top of the hounds for the crosstrees.  Those crosstrees will be described in the next part.

 

Work on these mast parts has been interspersed with "rattling down" of the lower shrouds.  The last picture shows this work completed on the starboard side of the fore mast.

 

 

 

 

Ed

[michael mott]

Lovely work Ed. I am curious about the differences between the wood topmast and the drawing it is placed over. I am guessing that there is some leeway here since both are from your own hand.

 

Michael

[EdT]

Hi Micheal,

 

You have noticed another case of my taking pictures with discrepancies between the drawings and the work.  My apologies to all for these differences.  They occur when I elect not to print the latest revision for use in the shop - a very bad practice, but one I reluctantly sometimes adopt in the interest of saving 11 x 17 printer paper and ink.  Unlike the recipients of my final drawings, I am usually doing drawing revisions "just-in-time" for construction because before constructing something I usually go back and make sure my best current data is reflected on the drawings. In this case the dimensioned construction drawing for the spar had been updated and printed for use in making the spar correctly, but not the mast detail sheet which was still undergoing revision - mainly for upper mast details like rigging line numbers.  Snippets from the current detail drawing and spar construction are shown below.  You will note the difference from the first two drawings in the post above.  The square heeling has been shortened to correct size (2.5 X mast diameter) and the location of the fid hole updated based on the final drawing of the top.  The bottom of the hole is 1" + the depth of the trestle trees above the mast bottom.  These dimensions are shown on the spar construction drawings but not on the detail sheets.

 

Again sorry for this confusion.  I should be more careful or at least note when these differences occur.

 

Thanks, Micheal.  I like it when people look closely.

 

Ed  

 

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 230 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees

 

The topmast crosstrees are fairly simple structures – except for the iron spreader assembly that mounts fairleads for the backstays of the masts above.  In the first picture, the members of the wooden structure are shown fitted together but not yet trimmed to size.

 

 

The four athwartship members are set into mortises in the fore-and-aft trestle trees.  The drawing (almost complete) shows the arrangement of the spreader irons.  In the next picture the wood structure has been assembled, drilled for the deadeye straps, and the arms tapered.

 

 

The next picture shows the assembly positioned on the topmast.

 

 

In the next picture, one of the spreader arms has been roughly shaped and the second has been drilled before shaping.

 

 

The spreader structure was made from .020" hard copper plate for stiffness.  It will be very fragile nonetheless.  The assembly will be bolted to the crosstrees through the two forward holes (that do not yet appear on the drawing).  Holes drilled in the unshaped piece on the outer arm will help precisely locate the fairlead cleats.  The next picture shows some shaping of the cleats.

 

 

Before filing the final shapes, the profile was cut out with a jeweler's saw.  In the next picture, a drawing scrap is being used to place the arms and cross piece for soldering.

 

 

After pinning, the paper was removed and the two joints soldered with minimal heat to limit the softening of the copper strips.  In the next picture the spreader assembly has been cleaned up and bolted to the crosstrees.

 

 

The bolts are copper wire pushed through the holes and riveted.  The next picture shows the crosstrees assembly placed on the hounds.

 

 

The last step was to add the eyebolts on the underside of the structure.

 

 

In this picture the assembly has been permanently attached to the topmast.  I am hopeful that the fragile spreader structure will gain some support after the stays are rigged through the fairlead cleats.Further work may now proceed on the detailing of the topmast head and fitting deadeyes the the assembly.

 

Ed

[Sailor1234567890]

That looks like something I'd catch both hands an elbow and probably a shoelace on. Hopefully you're more careful than I and don't have to redo those spreaders. They look great.

[druxey]

Superb metalwork, Ed! Maybe a temporary card protector over them?

[BANYAN]

Great smithing Ed, they look very good!  I sure hope there is enough strength in them at the tips/ends to sustain the pressure of the shrouds and preventers etc without them bending or will the cantilever action reduce this a little?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[archjofo]

Hi Ed,

 

your metalwork is very admirable, but not only this.