Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[Elia]

Ed

 

Outstanding and delicate copper work.  I am very impressed by all of your copper work and these are no exception.  They are such thin, narrow details.  I appreciate your showing the 'blank' first step strip adjacent completed spreader bar component as I had wondered how you made the integrated cleats.  I have no doubt I would bend and damage those spreaders in less than a day.  

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[EdT]

Thank you for all these comments and, of course, for the likes as well.  Your concerns for the fate of the flimsy spreaders at my often clumsy hands is well appreciated - and well justified!  They have already been straightened a few times.  

 

Druxey I may well try your suggestion once the topmast is secured.  Right now it is off for the rigging of the futtock shrouds, but will soon be in place permanently.

 

Pat, I share your concern, but only time will tell.  I am hoping that the stays will not be taken off their line too far and cause excessive inward pressure on the spreader.  We'll see.  I am somewhat confident that if the actual spreaders could handle it these should as well.  Wishful thinking, perhaps.

 

Ed

[EdT]

More like less than an hour for me, Elia.

[Jeronimo]

Hi Ed,

wonderful work.

Karl

 

 

 

 

[EdT]

Thank you, Karl - and thank you Piet for your 18 likes.

 

Ed

[Piet]

You are welcome Ed, just caught up with your build. I don't comment, just watch and learn. I noticed that your ratline fastening method is also employed on the Chilean four-masted bark "Esmeralda and the US Coastguard "Eagle." Interesting but logical. Saw it and made a few pics when in Quebec City in July.

Okay, I'll make one comment - beautiful work!

 

Cheers,

[EdT]

Thank you, Piet.  The method used for fastening ratlines is interesting.  Riggers faced the same problem we do as modelers trying to duplicate the method.  How long does each ratline rope have to be to come out at the right length after tying the intermediate clove hitches?  I solve the problem by making the last eye splice in place, but I doubt that would be done in actual practice.  It seems that there was a practice to account for over-length lines.  The last end would be wrapped a few turns around the outer shroud.  No comment on what to do with the short ones.  Use them further up, I guess.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 231 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 2

 

After the last post, I explained the drawing revisions at the foot of the fore topmast, specifically the dimensioning of the square heeling.  The first picture shows this part of the mast positioned on the trestle trees of the fore top. 

 

 

The bottom of the topmast is about 1" lower than the lower faces of the 18" deep trestle trees when the fid is down on the top faces.  The height of the sheave is not a critical dimension, but must be above the square section so the hoisting line will pass inside the square opening when the mast is raised.  One of the eyebolts on the underside of the cap would have been used to support the lifting tackle.

 

In the next picture the crosstrees have been permanently attached to the mast and the four deadeyes for the topgallant shrouds have been fitted but not yet blackened.

 

 

These 8" deadeyes will secure the 5" shrouds above and the same-sized topgallant futtock shrouds below.  The naming of these futtock shrouds that are installed as part of the topmast is a constant source of confusion to me, but I think I have finally cemented it into my mind.  In the next picture the deadeye straps have been blackened and the masthead has been fitted with its trim.

 

 

The battens are very small and will be covered by the rigging collars.  The cleats on either side will support a bullseye for the main royal stay.  Before installing the topmast, the topgallant futtock shrouds were installed.  As with those under the top, these are hooked through the deadeye straps at the top and lashed to eyebolts in the futtock band at their feet.  I have attached some pictures showing the method I am using to form the eye splices in the served shrouds.  In the first picture a small hook has been formed and threaded with the served 5" line.

 

 

The serving at the end is kept from unraveling with a drop of CA.  I am trying to limit the use of CA to non-permanent applications like this - except for the attachment of metal parts, like eyebolts, to wood.  The line was then seized at the throat of the splice with fine cotton thread with a tight overhand knot.  In the next picture darkened wood glue has been applied in the area of the splice.

 

 

The glued area was first wetted to help the glue penetrate through the serving.  The glue joint was then clamped with the modified alligator clamp shown in the picture   The jaws of this clamp have been filled with epoxy sculpting material to form a round clamping hole shown between the jaws.  When the glue has dried the excess rope was cut from the joint with a sharp knife as shown in the next picture.

 

 

The cut is made to form the taper of the splice.  The purpose of the glue is only to hold the joint together to allow wrapping of serving down to the bottom of the splice.  The glued serving will hold the splice together.  The finished splice is shown in the next picture.

 

 

Finishing with a smoothly tapered splice at this scale can be a challenge, but after glue is applied to seal the added serving, some crimping may be done to eliminate bumps.  Removing the excess serving without leaving short stubs is also a challenge.  This is done after the glue dries.

 

In the next picture the hook has been blackened and temporarily fitted to its strap so the length to the eye at the other end may be measured as shown in the picture.

 

 

An eye is formed at the lower end by the same method but without the hook.  The lashing of these lower ends will be described in the next part.

 

 

Ed

[wefalck]

Making served eye-splices is a challenge that has bugged me for years, particularly in smaller scales. Looking at your method, I was wondering, whether one could not serve first a short length, then form a 'false' splice by stiching the loose end two times through the standing part, set the splice with lacquer or glue, and then continue to serve the standing part. This would result in a less bulky splice, as it would be served over only once.

[Mahuna]

Great work, as usual, Ed.  I like the modified alligator clip - have to remember it.

[EdT]

Wefalck, I am certainly open to suggestions to trim down the shape of the splice.  I have tried a number of different methods and have some others in mind.  The bumps on the splice are mainly the product of roughness in cutting back the short leg, serving over the previously served part, and knots in the rather large serving thread.  One approach might be to "plasticize" the area of the splice to fuse the rope and serving - well enough to allow this to be trimmed into the serving on the standing leg without having it unravel, then serve over this slimmed down, smooth part after the splice is glued.  I plan to try this on the next set.

 

The approach you describe is well worth a try.  There might be some measurement issues on the second end and there is also the issue of serving a short rope with eyes at both ends.  I like the idea of having the rope pre-served for these reasons and because it eliminates setups on the serving machine.  But still worth a try.

 

Frank, after filling the clip jaws with epoxy compound, a waxed pin can be used between the jaws to form the round.  Waxed paper between the jaws is necessary to prevent their bonding.  Alligator clips are inexpensive and can be modified to meet a variety of needs.  They are also light enough to use in rigging.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

Hi Ed, very nice work and a great explanation of techniques as we have come to expect.  Maybe a silly question in that I have missed it, but how do you get the futtock deadeye lower eyes through the small trestles?  Are the holes drilled and squared large enough to accept the eye or do you expand the lower eye after threading through as a flattened piece?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Hi Pat,

 

The holes are drilled to just pass the lower loop on the strap - with just a bit of enlarging with a small tapered reamer if necessary to push them through.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Ed,  a very nice clean job you have done of that, hence my question.  I have also just noticed the material you have used in the vice for holding the mast to minimise any marking and movement.  Will need to find something similar.

 

Thanks again for all the feedback and ideas

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Pat,

 

The padding in the vise is just a small piece of foam carpet padding.

 

Ed

[rwiederrich]

Wonderful work Ed....just wonderful.

 

Will those spreaders be rigid enough?

 

Rob

[EdT]

We will have to see, Rob.

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 232 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 3

 

The first picture shows one of the fore topgallant futtock shrouds being lashed to the band below the fore topmast crosstrees. 

 

 

Although they are fitted to the topmast, these shrouds are part of the topgallant shrouds above – hence the somewhat confusing naming.  Each lashing is first tied to the eye, then passed through the eyebolt and eye three times, and then wrapped around itself in the center with a series of clove hitches.  The clove hitches are an effective way to do this on these small lashings – and easier than wrapping a lot of turns while trying to keep the lashing from rotating while still making the turns tight.  The difference is virtually undetectable on these small black lashings.  The next picture shows the four futtock shrouds lashed in place.

 

 

 

With these installed the topmast may be permanently fitted.  The next picture shows the lower end of the installed mast.

 

 

The mast fid is down on the iron plates and a filler piece has been fitted at the forward face to fix the bottom and keep the mast aligned.  Although not strictly necessary, the mast was glued at this point and at the cap.

 

The first piece of rigging to go over the mast is the fish tackle pendant.  This long pendant was used to suspend the triple purchase tackle that was used to lift and handle the anchors.  The pendant is therefore a heavy 8" rope.  It is served around the seized masthead collar.  The lower end has an eye splice with a thimble at its foot

 

 

 The large upper block of the tackle will be hooked through this thimble.  In the picture the pendant is temporarily held taught by some black thread.

 

After the fish tackle, the topmast shrouds are put over the masthead.  In the next picture the shrouds have been placed and held at the foretop with clamps.

 

 

As with the lower shrouds the forward shrouds are fully served.  Serving on the others extends around the mast to just below the futtock shrouds.  The two forward shrouds are a single line that loops over the mast and is seized below the bolsters.  The aft shrouds are single, with a single eye splice served down to the futtock shrouds.  All these collars and eyes are parceled down to the seizings.  The next picture shows a closer view of this.

 

 

Next to go over are the topmast backstays, a pair on each side.  The collars of these are also served and parceled down to the collar seizings.  They are clamped at the channels in the next picture.

 

 

These are large 10½" lines, a looped pair on each side.  The last picture shows the parceling of these before the parceling is "tarred" with black artist's acrylic paint.

 

 

They were removed for this painting after tying the seizings.  With all these lines secured at the top, the next step is to fix them to their deadeyes at the lower ends.

 

 

Ed

[Sailor1234567890]

And start on the ratlines.....  Looks awesome.

[GMO2]

Ed,I have to say,this project is one of the most impressive things I have ever seen.I spent 35 years as a mining geologist working in a very complex mining project at depths some times exceeding 2200 feet.I  have also built a full scale experimental aircraft with a 36 foot wingspan,and have been involved in several others,so I know skill,imagination,and creative thinking when I see it.This work is astounding.There is one thing I would suggest.I have been contemplating that fid.At 6x4x54 inches that is .75 cubic feet of presumably wrought iron which is going to weigh 365 lbs.or thereabout,given a specific gravity of 7.6 - 7.9 for wrought iron.It strikes me that that thing is going to be mean to handle in the narrow,and precarious space at the front end of that top without some way to get a purchase on it to support the weight until it can be slipped through the fid hole in the topmast.How do you suppose those old timers went about it?                Of all the things man has created throughout history,nothing can rival the picture of a clipper ship in Flying Fish weather with all the kites out for sheer beauty in my opinion,for what it's worth.This project gives us a good view of just how they accomplished one of their creations.A grand piece of work!

[rwiederrich]

As usual Ed..magnificent work.

 

Rob

[BANYAN]

Stunning work yet again Ed, everything is so well manufactured and finished - QUALITY

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Kevin]

I have just realised where my spare free time goes, Just reread your log from the start, brilliant work, I got so engrossed I forgot to like the posts, 

[EdT]

Thank you all for these comments - and Kevin, my hat is off to you for perseverance if you REREAD all 230+ parts.  I think my eyes would glaze over early in such an effort.  But thank you for your interest.

 

GM02, your comments are more than generous.  When I started this project, I knew I was biting off a lot, but big, complex projects attract me.  It has been four years so far in construction and several months before that in getting a critical mass of early drawings together.  Since I have built relatively few ship models - three including this one - this is still an exploratory effort for me.  There are often fits and starts, but when something works, I am pleased to share it.

 

I very much appreciate your comments on the iron fid.  When I first realized the size of it from the Crothers drawings, and the weight implications, I was taken aback and skeptical.  Further research (Fincham, Mast-Making, 1843) confirmed the sizing - 1/3 the mast diameter in depth for an iron fid, 1/2 for wood and 2/3 width to depth ratio.  It is one big chunk of iron.  As far as rigging and handling this, I do not believe riggers of the time would be too challenged.  Even with the absence of end holes in these lower fids - the upper mast fids have holes in the ends for standing lift shackles - I believe the fid could be lifted with a sling secured at the ends and then pushed or hauled through the hole before lowering the mast on to the trestle trees.  This would be like a toothpick compared to the 82', 22" diameter fore yard loaded with all its ironwork - to say nothing of the larger main yard.  We often tend to underestimate the capabilities of this earlier time.

 

Thanks again for the comments.

 

Ed
 

 

[JerryTodd]

Ed, you are fast replacing Crabtree as my favorite ship modeler 

[albert]

Fantastic work Ed.

[archjofo]

Hi Ed,
I am always amazed at your perfect way of working.
Work preparation with drawings and then precise implementation
are already remarkable.

[GMO2]

Hi Ed,  You are right about the capabilities of those people in those times.The entire construction of one of these ships,especially the short time frame from start to finish seems incredible.Anybody who could step a 100 ft. mast 3 feet in diameter isn't going to be put off by a mere 360 lb. fid.I would just love to watch them in action.

[rwiederrich]

This model of a mast rig stepping a mast helps the mind grapple with the sheer will perpetuated by these men who did great construction feats with what they had, and they did wonders.... IMHV

 

Though not an exact replica of what happened this demonstrates the idea

 

Rob

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 233 – Fore Topmast Shrouds

 

In the first picture the three deadeyes for the starboard side have been mounted on a piece of thin clear plastic film and this has been secured to the lower deadeyes at the rim of the top.  The somewhat flexible film was used to match the curve of the rim, but this was not really necessary.  The fixture is mainly used to align the top deadeyes but is also helps in the "turning in."

 

 

The three deadeyes have been secured with seizings but the excess thread ends and the excess shroud ends still have to be trimmed off.  The next picture shows the three starboard shrouds secured with their 3" lanyards.

 

 

The lanyards still have to be tensioned and the excess ends wound around the shrouds, but this will wait until the forward topmast stays and the backstays are installed so that all can be tensioned together.  The next picture shows one of the deadeyes on the port side being turned in with the first seizing being tied.

 

 

In the picture a clamp secures the shroud in the groove of the deadeye and another holds the short leg horizontal and tight.  A curved needle is being used to help make the throat seizing that was used just above each deadeye.  In this type of seizing the thread is wrapped over the crossing of the shroud, so the needle is passing through the opening above the deadeye under the front horizontal leg and behind the vertical leg.  This is then repeated and the last pass secured with a clove type finish.  The short end of the shroud is then brought up to vertical and secured to the shroud with two more round seizings on the parallel legs.  The next picture shows all six shrouds secured to the top.

 

 

Finally, a picture of the model with the topmast shrouds and backstays secured.

 

 

 

The fish tackle pendant is still temporarily tied off at its lower end.  The backstays will be described in the next part.

 

 

Ed