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Posted

Post 71

Completion of first stage.

Five months into this build and time for a long overdue workshop GTU, and some stage photos.

 

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I now need to decide where I’m going with this build.

I completed my previous two builds ‘Navy Board’ Style with stump masts, but I am leaning  towards going a little further with Harpy.

My initial thoughts are to rig her with lower masts and standing rigging in place but without yards.

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I did this with my model of Victory.

I quite like this set-up on models and it has the advantage of space saving.

 

With Harpy, extending the build time, and deferring any concerns of what to do next are also a factor, and I fancy doing some rigging again.

I will start with a mock-up to gauge the overall space requirements, and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in.

 

A plan of sorts.

 

B.E.

28/04/2025

 

 

Posted
19 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in.


You are a very brave man B.E.! Good luck with that strategy.

Posted
3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

once Mrs W has left the premise

 

I guess it is better to ask for forgiveness rather than for permission. As @gjdale just said, you are a brave man, sir!

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

Post 72

Channels and Timberheads.

These are the last main features to add to the hull exterior.

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Channels and Timberheads slot seamlessly into place.

 

Side steps.

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Annoying but necessary little beggars these, two tiny pieces comprising a tread and support glued together at right angles, five required each side. Fortunately the locations are engraved on the top sides which helps with this exercise.

With the use of laser cutters, shape and even a design is included on items that would prove very difficult to produce by hand accurately at this scale.

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The  Bow bollards (275) referred to in the manual as  Gunwale bow timbers sit either side of the Bowsprit. They are a less fancy version of the Knightheads that support the Bowsprit.

These need  bevelling on their inboard faces to run parallel to the Bowsprit.

I have made up some test  masts and spars to gauge the overall size were I to detail the lower masts and standing rigging.

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These are the full length Masts, Bowsprit, and Driver boom, as per the plans. How they relate to Steel I haven’t checked at this point.

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The masts are in Walnut but I prefer Ramin for lower masts.

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This is the space profile compared to Sphinx, I  think I can accommodate her with lower rigging in place but without the yards.

Decision made.

 

B.E.

30/04/2025

Posted (edited)

Post 73

Strops, chains, and plates.

I prefer to chemically blacken ‘ironwork’ rather than paint it, as I think it gives a subtle and more realistic representation.

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It is more time consuming, and there are several parts that make up the strops and chain plate combinations.

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I test the assembled shroud combinations along the Channels to gauge where they fall on the Wale.

The positions shown on the plan accord with those on the Adm plan.

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I may be missing something but I seem to have a potential problem; the lower link falls  awkwardly right on the top edge of the wale, and the preventer plate sits too low on the wale.

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Compared to the Plan the lower chain (pe20) seems over-long which throws the Preventer plate (pe21) too low.

 

I have come across this issue on previous models where the answer is to adjust the upper chain link to bring the lower link and preventer plate to their correct placing, but a smaller lower link would be preferable.

This does however involve a fair bit of faffing around to get the correct size.

 

I am not in a position to fit the deadeyes at this stage as I decided to invest in resin versions in Swiss Pear colour, the latest innovation from Chuck’s Syren company.

The basic kit blocks  and Deadeyes are ok but lack the detail of what is now available. They also need sorting to weed out those with mis-cut holes etc;

 

I’ve not picked up any indication of the need for adjustment, so I’m not sure what’s going on here, the wale is in the correct position as are the channels.

 

B.E.

02/05/2025

 

Edited by Blue Ensign

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