Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC

[JPett]

Ahoy Wackowolf 

 

Something in a 1/50 scale with a cutaway would be a very cool kit. These guns were amazing

[Kevin]

my comment was not meant to be sharp.........with a kit this size......where do you start?         I'm sure you have plenty of ideas,  and so much can be done to enhance the beauty of this fine kit.   I used to work with plastic,  so I know where your coming from.   when I started working with wooden ships,  I became good friends with the airbrush.  I had tried it earlier when I was younger,  but with smaller kits,  I wasn't too keen on the clean up and upkeep.   check out the Testor's EZ line of airbrushes.....not too much clean up and very easy to use:

 

Testors » Airbrushes » Airbrushes

 

I use the 'Amazing Air'  airbrush kit........costs around $30.00.  I adapted it to run it off my large compressor,  and I have been using it for around four years now.   it utilizes the 1/4 oz bottles that the Testors, Humbrol, Pactra {just to name a few} comes in........for clean empty bottles,  I just buy a bunch of the 1/4 oz bottles of thinners,  and I'm good to go.   I have two other airbrushes too.......a gravity feed w/ compressor,  and another siphon feed........haven't even tried them out yet........this crazy little unit hasn't failed me yet      just take it slow,  and do all you want to do.   experiment before you commit,  if you have to,  but be sure that the only person who is satisfied,  is you.    these big builds seem to be making a presence here.........this is so cool!

lol - i never took it as being sharp 

i have decided ti start the build on the superstructure, around the smoke stack, lots to do, without the PE kit, and i am enjoying it, today i bought green stuff for the joints,now i need to find the best way of holding PE to the plastic, going to experiment with C/A tonight, i keep reading about Gator grip and various others

[JPett]

Ahoy Kevin

 

I use 5 minute epoxy for most of my PE. Your parts will never pop off.  It can be thinned with Alcohol and applied similar to Thin cements using capillary action. Or it can be left on a part for a minute or two to "get tacky" before applying it to the model. Cleaning up any excess is also easy with alcohol.

 

Whatever you use be sure to scuff the PE

Edited October 25, 2013 by JPett

[Kevin]

my first working with PE, using C/A at present thsi is part of the smoke stack

[JPett]

Ahoy Kevin

 

Your symmetry looks great

 

The detail on this kit is amazing

[popeye the sailor]

I've never worked with P.E. either.........I have a friend that does though.  the detail that it gives to the model is fantastic.    Nice! 

 

.....and so,  it begins

[mobbsie]

Hey Kevin, by PE I hope you don't mean Plastic Explosive, that would really make it go with a bang.   :D        

 

Good luck with this project mate, I'm gonna follow.

 

mobbsie

[Kevin]

Good evening everyone

 

the funnel area progress, finding i am spending more time worrying about the weathering than the build it's self so have told my self no more painting until i am much further ahead, i am constantly checking build logs to avoid doing to much that i may rip out , the fitting kit that i dont have at present, replaces so much of the original (or should i say enhances a lot of the original)

there are 3 hangers on the build one of them is a double am hoping to be able to do some work so you can possibly see some of the internals 

 

[WackoWolf]

Kevin,

 

   With the detail that your doing and the way it is coming out this is going to be one big Beautiful Ship. Please keep the pictures coming. Will always be watching this build.

[WackoWolf]

I also remember that ongoing argument on MSW1. A lot of people had there own option about that subject, but it never gut out of hand. I also learn a few things about it which I never new.

[popeye the sailor]

well....perhaps a lot of that lost info will resurface.   I have a feeling that this build will make for a good read 

[Captain Slog]

Hi Kevin,

 

You are off to a nice start.  I will definitely be following this one.  I would love to do this one at some stage but I have the 1:200 GPM card one on the back burner at the moment. Interestingly I started at the same area you did.  The funnel is such an interesting area.

 

Not sure if you would be interested in the following link if you are not aware of it already but it is by Anton (Perth_shipyard) who used to be very active on MSW 1.0 with his HMS Diana.

 

Anyway he is using the KA 1 upgrade kit which I think you are/going to use.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178

 

Cheers

Slog

[Kevin]

good morning everyone

 

thankyou for the comments

 

 

you will have to face two options when you come to paint her. I remember a controversy about the swastika on the bow decking and also read that Bismarck had the tops of her turrets painted yellow in Kreigsmarine fashion before her final battle. This was an ongoing argument on MSW1. 

i used to read with interest about this subject, and we have our own views about it, however, i am building a model that represents a piece of history, a moment in time, if and when the time comes and it upsets to many, then i will have to do something about it, and if that means removing my build from MSW then so be it, im not here to open wounds or re visit all the horrors that went on, just putting some plastic together and enjoying doing so,

but thank you for bringing the subject to light again

[dafi]

Warning! I will be monitoring those split lines front and aft of the funnel!

 

Be careful!

 

;-)

 

Love the parts, Daniel

Edited October 27, 2013 by dafi

[Kevin]

Warning! I will monitoring those split lines front and aft of the funnel!

 

Be careful!

 

;-)

 

Love the parts, Daniel

im learning that green stuff is the new version of sawdust, the joints are very good, and have only seen one bit of flash so far, but the spruce joints to the moulded pieces are a bit over thick at times, 

Edited October 27, 2013 by Kevin

[Kevin]

Hi Kevin,

 

You are off to a nice start.  I will definitely be following this one.  I would love to do this one at some stage but I have the 1:200 GPM card one on the back burner at the moment. Interestingly I started at the same area you did.  The funnel is such an interesting area.

 

Not sure if you would be interested in the following link if you are not aware of it already but it is by Anton (Perth_shipyard) who used to be very active on MSW 1.0 with his HMS Diana.

 

Anyway he is using the KA 1 upgrade kit which I think you are/going to use.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178

 

Cheers

Slog

i have been reading a few logs, but this is a new one to me, thank you

[rfolsom]

Kevin;  Just stumbled upon your build, and it's looking great!  I must say, however, if you are creating a great and accurate model from history, as we all are, why omit the swastika?  The symbol itself has been around much longer than the third reich...  It's all a part of history.  If I were recreating a confederate warship from the 1800's I would include the confederate flag, for realism;  history should not be offensive, we should all educate ourselves and our children in order to prevent the terrible mistakes we've made in the past, and as model ship builders we should embrace the wonderful engineering and design that went into these magnificent vessels;  they all were created by great minds that, In My Humble Opinion, were horrified at how the war mongers ultimately used them to satisfy their own selfish agendas.

 

That being said, I look forward to your build;  I haven't done plastic since I was a kid, but this looks like a great kit, and It's tempting...

[realworkingsailor]

im learning that green stuff is the new version of sawdust, the joints are very good, and have only seen one bit of flash so far, but the spruce joints to the moulded pieces are a bit over thick at times,

 

Kevin, do you have a set of these? http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html

 

They will help immensely.

 

Andy

[Kevin]

Kevin, do you have a set of these? http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html

 

They will help immensely.

 

Andy

No i dont - YET

[Kevin]

Kevin;  Just stumbled upon your build, and it's looking great!  I must say, however, if you are creating a great and accurate model from history, as we all are, why omit the swastika?  The symbol itself has been around much longer than the third reich...  It's all a part of history.  If I were recreating a confederate warship from the 1800's I would include the confederate flag, for realism;  history should not be offensive, we should all educate ourselves and our children in order to prevent the terrible mistakes we've made in the past, and as model ship builders we should embrace the wonderful engineering and design that went into these magnificent vessels;  they all were created by great minds that, In My Humble Opinion, were horrified at how the war mongers ultimately used them to satisfy their own selfish agendas.

 

That being said, I look forward to your build;  I haven't done plastic since I was a kid, but this looks like a great kit, and It's tempting...

LOL - im not omitting it, - but i will remove my log from MSW if it upsets people, i knew this subject would rear it's self, never this early though, i am months away from that any way

[dafi]

In the DIY-stores in the electrical or tools department they have the same ones as Andy showed for cheaper and possibly better quality. Here from wikipedia:

 

For electronics work, special diagonal cutters that are ground flush to the apex of the cutting edge on one side of the jaws are often used. These flush-cutting pliers allow wires to be trimmed flush or nearly flush to a solder joint, avoiding the sharp tip left by symmetrical diagonal cutters. It is common for this type of diagonal cutter to be referred to by another name, such as "flush cutter" to distinguish it from symmetrical cutters.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

 

I usually go to the shop with a piece of paper and try them out - good ones should even cut paper! This means not suitable for harder wires bit wonderful for sprue and etch :-)

 

PS: I use them too for cutting off the end bits of the ropes while rigging, better than any scissors :-)

 

Daniel

 

Here a picture from Wikipedia:

Edited October 27, 2013 by dafi

[realworkingsailor]

Xuron tools are top quality, probably some of the best. The price is higher for a reason.

 

Andy

[Kevin]

without having the extra PE i am struggling with what i can get on with and that which will be replaced, i fully appreciated the views those who would say build from the box, and get on with it, but the extra bits were in my budget, i just never expected to have to use it so soon 

 

the hangers have had a coat of primer

Edited October 27, 2013 by Kevin

[Richard50]

Hi Kevin, sometimes we can be too p.c. I agree with what rflosom has written, particularly regarding the history of what the swastika stood for during that time. Please keep going on with the build, and don’t remove it from MSW.

[Spaceman Spiff]

You are doing excellent work! Am very impressed! Two things: First, omitting something that was actually on the ship for fear of hurting someone's feelings is, for lack of better words, is utterly ridiculous. If someone complains or is "insulted" or offended by such, then its their fault for clicking on the link in the first place. After all, the Bismark is a famous ship... Ok, enough ranting! It's just that things are getting out of hand a little. Second, if you are having a hard time finding PE for your model, why not scratch some stuff out of styrene? Evergreen makes a lot of different types - rod, tube, I-beam, etc. - and sheets in different sizes, thickness, etc. That's what I am having do for my Dad's carrier.

 

Your work is incredible and please don't remove because some may have thin skin!

[Kevin]

You are doing excellent work! Am very impressed! Two things: First, omitting something that was actually on the ship for fear of hurting someone's feelings is, for lack of better words, is utterly ridiculous. If someone complains or is "insulted" or offended by such, then its their fault for clicking on the link in the first place. After all, the Bismark is a famous ship... Ok, enough ranting! It's just that things are getting out of hand a little. Second, if you are having a hard time finding PE for your model, why not scratch some stuff out of styrene? Evergreen makes a lot of different types - rod, tube, I-beam, etc. - and sheets in different sizes, thickness, etc. That's what I am having do for my Dad's carrier.

 

Your work is incredible and please don't remove because some may have thin skin!

http://www.freetimehobbies.com/1-200-ka-models-bismarck-deluxe-wood-deck-brass-barrels-photo-etch-super-detail-upgrade-mk1-design/

 

i have now found a better index of parts contained

http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=8834

Edited October 27, 2013 by Kevin

[popeye the sailor]

looking very good Kevin.........I do agree that it's too early in the build for any banter.   enjoy what your doing.....we'll enjoy what you've done 

[Kevin]

looking very good Kevin.........I do agree that it's too early in the build for any banter.   enjoy what your doing.....we'll enjoy what you've done 

bring on the banter, otherwise i will have to, i love it, lol - it kind of hides my bad build work

[WackoWolf]

Kevin,

 

    Thanks for the link about the big guns, I like that. But the asking price is way out there, but the detail is beautiful. Keep the pictures and links coming. I will always be watching this build of yours.

[realworkingsailor]

Unfortunately, once you've bonded two pieces of styrene together with plastic cement... There's nothing that will "dissolve" the joint. Both pieces are litterally welded together to become one.

 

Andy

 

(And that's my anti penultimate post as a "captain" )